Blue Blood, White Wine: The Count’s Torrontes

Count Patrick d'Aulan comes from wine. And money. And blue blood. He is the aristocratic owner Alta Vista Winery, but he is no newcomer. His family held the keys to the Piper-Heidsieck Champagne house for nearly a hundred years. In the late 1990s, the domaine was sold. As luck would have it - maybe it wasn’t luck at all - the Count had met Bordeaux winemaker Jean-Michel Arcaute. They began scouting for new wine lands to conquer, and after a little sniffing around, they arrived in Argentina. Salta, to be precise.

Salta is in the northern part of Argentina, a stone’s throw from Chile and Bolivia and not much farther to Uruguay. The vines from which the Torrontes grapes were taken are at an altitude of 5,400 feet, so it’s pretty special terroir. in fact, all the vineyards owned by Alta Vista reside at an altitude of at least 3,200 feet.

The 2013 Alta Vista Salta Torrontes received no malolactic fermentation, to enhance the wine’s fresh and vibrant character. Aging took place in steel for three months, then in the bottle for a similar span. In the tanks, the wine rested on its lees, or spent yeast cells, hence the full mouthfeel.

This Torrontes has a light golden tint and a nose that is simple, but effective. The aromas of white flowers and pear juice are concentrated and captivating. The palate shows a bit more variety, with a more mineral-driven set of flavors - limes, oranges and pineapple - in addition to the luscious pears and peaches in this fruit salad of a wine. The acidity is passable, but not really spectacular - great for sips and salads. Make it a fruit salad.

Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter

Patagonia's Dark Vision Of Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir wines made in the southern part of South America, Patagonia, have a tendency to be extremely earthy and bold. Barda is no exception, although it does show more fruit than I expected.

The Barda Pinot Noir is made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes grown in Argentina’s Patagonia region. Patagonia is the southernmost region in South America, but it’s a vast expanse. Bodega Chacra is in the Rio Negro Valley, in the more northern part of Patagonia. It is actually much closer to Buenos Aires than to the southern tip of the continent. Still, it’s a good 600 miles from the South American metropolis.

The Chacra website explains the Rio Negro geography a bit more: “The property's situation in the arid central Argentine desert is tempered by the confluence of the Neuquen and Limay Rivers, both of which flow from the Andes and converge in the Rio Negro, which in turn flows into the Atlantic. The Rio Negro Valley itself is a glacial bed 15.5 miles wide stretching 310 miles along the river's banks at an elevation of 750 feet above sea level. The valley is irrigated by a network of channels excavated in the late 1820s by British colonists who observed the abundant snow melt flowing from the Andes and created an oasis in the middle of the desert.”

The wine’s alcohol content is a low, low 13.2% abv. Aging occurred over twelve months in French oak barrels.

Very dark purple, Barda Pinot Noir 2014 has a nose defined by earth. The minerals lead the raspberry aromas around on a leash, although other Patagonian Pinots I've tried have been even earthier. There is an herbal scent as well, but the profile is all about the dirt. On the palate, the fruit gets to show off a little more. Raspberry and black cherry are most noticeable, with the minerals making a play of their own here, too. It is a bit one-dimensional. The tannic structure and acidity are both vigorous, and the finish is lengthy.

Lamb is a popular meat in Argentine Patagonia, and it will meld wonderfully with a dark and rich wine such as this one. I would also like it with Merguez sausage, a more traditional chorizo or even just plain skirt steak.

Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter

Argentina Via Whole Foods Market: Belgrano Malbec

A recent virtual wine tasting event put on by Whole Foods Markets brought out the wine lovers on social media.  The Twitter-based chat session drew a nice crowd of participants who were sampling some of the bargains offered at the grocery chain.

Several wines were tasted and tweeted about, and the conversation was friendly and animated, as usual with this sort of Twitter tasting.  If you'd like a heads-up when the next Whole Foods event comes to social media, you should follow the Whole Foods wine department on Twitter at @WFMwine.

The Belgrano Argentine Malbec was very popular with the online panel.  On Twitter, @WFMwine noted, "we sell Malbec like crazy. Belgrano is $9, good value. Warm spices, some blueberry, a little smoky note. Like the nose?"  A resounding round of "Yes!" ensued, from others who joined in the event.   @RickGriffin  agreed, tweeting, "Love the mouthfeel and finish of the Belgrano Malbec - GREAT value!"  @estehawk thought the Belgrano was "buttery and earthy with a touch of spice."  @WFMwine  then egged on the crowd a little more: "Belgrano is nice, soft & round. A real crowdpleaser no? goes with anything, burgers, pizza, cold turkey sammie."  @JamesTheWineGuy offered his tasting notes: "Lavender, violets, cassis, dark chocolate, chicory, and baking spices."  The Belgrano Malbec made @lovelemonsfood hungry: "this one makes me want to eat a bowl of spaghetti."

The Belgrano Malbec hits only 13% abv and comes under a synthetic cork.  From grapes grown in the Maipú Valley in Mendoza, Argentina, this wine is a righteous steal at Whole Foods.  It sells there for about $10 and, to my understanding, it's a Whole Foods exclusive.  

The dark color looks quite rich and ruby-red.  Aromas of blueberry, smoke and spice bolt from the glass, leaving a little trail of cedar behind.  The palate is lovely - ripe, red fruit and oak spice are contained in a full and easy mouthfeel with smooth tannins. 

Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter

Holiday Wines 2014: Whole Foods Market part 2

Another holiday season is upon us, and the fine folks at Whole Foods Markets have another selection of wines that are perfect for the holidays. Not only are they holiday-ready, but they are on the shelves at wine-equipped Whole Foods stores.  As usual, they are priced so you can splurge a little on the turkey, or the ham, or the standing rib roast, or whatever you have in mind to highlight your holiday feast.

Ashley Hawkins, a representative of Whole Foods Markets, says this year's WFM holiday picks, "showcase a wide variety of wines from a perfect-for-turkey-and-ham silky Sonoma County Pinot Noir to a French Chardonnay-Viognier with a round, fruity softness that pairs well with yams and cranberry."

Some of the the wines were tasted in a virtual tasting event on Twitter a couple of weeks back, and another Twitter Tasting is set for Thursday December 4, 2014. See the wines below.  I'll be writing about the wines separately, but you can get an idea of what to expect with the descriptions from Whole Foods, shown below, along with their favorite food pairing for each.  “*” denotes a wine which is available only at Whole Foods Markets.

Pick up a bottle or two and join the social media crowd for both of these Twitter tastings.  Follow along in the hashtag #WFMWine to get the full effect of the fun that can be found while tasting and tweeting.

Thursday December 4, 2014, 7-8 CT

* Globerati Sauvignon Blanc

"From the Central Valley of Chile, this bright, fresh white has aromas of lemon and grapefruit with a hint of honeysuckle, and mineral notes are balanced with a green apple acidity.
Pairings: Mitica Campo de Montalban, Manhattan clam chowder, shrimp cocktail, mussels, sliced pears."

* Bubo Cabernet Sauvignon

"Surprisingly fruity, pleasant and approachable with a touch of green pepper aroma, this red has flavors of blackberries and ripe plums that accentuate the juiciness of this easy drinking wine.
Pairings: Ford Farms Seaside Cheddar, cranberry turkey sandwiches, veggie lasagna, cassoulet, beef enchiladas."

* Charles and Charles CL Merlot Red Blend

"There is an attractive baked biscuit aroma in this inky, hearty red. Black and blue fruits come forward and then recede into a rich, elegant, full-bodied finish.
Pairings: Cabot Clothbound Cheddar, steak and Guinness pie, twice baked potatoes, buttery pastry crusts."

* H&G Priorat

"Earthy, herbaceous aromas in this brick red wine lead to a refined minerality and complex dark fruit flavors. The terroir of Priorat, Spain proudly shows in the glass.
Pairings: Guilloteau Fromager d’Affinois, barbecue, hearty veggie stews, Brunswick stew, grilled ribeye."

on November 13, 2014

Pizzolato Organic Pinot Grigio

"Stone fruit aromas give way to an enticing minerality and vibrant acidity in this organically grown Italian white.
Pairings: Oro del Tiempe Piave Vecchio, delicate seafood, shellfish, lemon vinaigrette, citrus fruit salad"

* Sea Pines Russian River Chardonnay

"Subtle aromas belie big flavors of green apple, lemon and vanilla bean. A pleasant richness hints at the use of just the right amount of oak for a lovely balance.
Pairings: Cypress Grove Midnight Moon, poached turbot, Cornish hens, chowders, lobster bisque, cream sauces."

* Bodegas Belgrano Malbec

"With aromas of warm spices and stewed blueberry flavors that mingle with woodsy hints of smoke, this textbook Argentine malbec has a roundness that makes for an easy drinking classic.
Pairings: Hennings Cranberry Orange."

* Leyenda del Castillo Rioja

"Mineral, earthy aromas are found in this deep garnet Spanish red. With bright, sunny fruit flavors like ripe cherries, this Rioja has a lingering, well-balanced finish.
Pairings: Mitica Mahon, grilled meats, pork chops, eggplant marinara, charred steaks."

Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter

The Malbec Surprise

She is ordering a glass of wine?  Red wine?  My wife likes a little vino now and then, but hardly ever has a glass when we go to out dinner unless we are at an Italian restaurant where she can get her Vermentino on.  She loves to get her Vermentino on.

Feeling a little pressure lately to watch her health, she decided to go with a red wine, that healthful elixir shot full of the resveratrol that will surely keep us healthy - maybe even grant us eternal life, if we consume in moderation.

A Malbec, she orders.  An Argentine Malbec.  It's from Bodega Catena Zapata, and it is from the Vista Flores appellation in Tunuyán, of the Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina.  Based on the altitude of the Vista Flores area - around 3,100 to 3,200 feet - it would seem that the grapes were taken from the Catena family's La Pirámide vineyard.  However, they do like to blend different microclimates - from the different elevations of their various vineyards in the Andes mountains.

The Catena Vista Flores Malbec shows a beautiful ruby color and offers a lovely nose full of cherry and plum aromas. In the mouth, it's full of nice, peppery, red fruit with juicy acidity and firm tannins.  The 13.5% alcohol level is moderate and the wine is nicely balanced.


Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter

Argentine Cabernet Value From Rutini

There have been some news accounts lately that the current inflation problem in Argentina may cause the great South American values from that country to dry up, while a British importer of Argentine wine says "the market is finally catching up with reality."

The importer is quoted in thedrinksbusiness.com as saying that he feels Argentine wine producers should survive relatively unscathed, but the potential for difficulties in other areas persist.  “Strike action and domestic unrest are a very real possibility and logistics in Argentina are a constant headache," he notes.

All that will be determined in time, but there are still great values from Argentina.

The Rutini Trumpeter Cabernet Sauvignon is 100% Cab.  The wine underwent 100% malolactic fermentation, while aging occurred over nine months in French oak barrels - half of which were new and half of which were neutral.  The retail price is only $11 per bottle.

Inky dark, the wine gives a nose which places vanilla notes up against currant and red berries.  The palate shows toasty oak spices draped across the bright fruit and acidity.  Tannins are smooth, but not silky, and a hint of eucalyptus drifts by on the finish.  A delightful sense of minerals is present from the beginning to the end.

Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter

Great Value Malbec Wine From Argentina

Felipe Rutini was hired by the Argentine government in 1885 to develop public parks in Mendoza. It didn't take him long to recognize the potential for winemaking in the region, and his family established themselves as winemakers, owning property there for over a century.  In 1994, ownership was transferred and winemaker Mariano Di Paola  has been overseeing the winemaking since then.  In 2008, a winery was opened in Tupungato, in the Uco Valley.

There are hundreds of acres planted to wine grapes now, only 21 miles away from the 21,5000 foot peak of Tupungato volcano, the world's tallest active volcano.  The minerality resulting from the location defines the terroir of the region.  A 25-degree swing in temperature between day and night produces the diurnal effect that makes it a great wine growing region.  Harvest starts at the end of January and ends in early May, making it one of the longest growing seasons in the world.

The Trumpeter brand from Rutini helped open the door for Argentine wine in the U.S., and when people talk about the great values found in Argentine wine these days, this is one that needs to be in that discussion.

Rutini's Trumpeter 2012 Malbec is crafted from 100% Malbec grapes and undergoes full malolactic fermentation, in which all the malic acid turns into lactic acid.  This produces a fuller, richer mouthfeel.  Oak aging is done over seven months in barrels which are 30% new American oak, 30% new French oak and 40% neutral American oak.

The Trumpeter Malbec is extremely dark in color while offering a nose full of sweet oak spice.  The oak shows up, but doesn't overstate its case.  Cinnamon, allspice, black pepper and open onto a seriously deep tar aroma that lies over the dark mixed berries.  The palate really over-delivers, considering this wine costs only $11.  Rich blackberry and currant flavors are set off by the American oak spice rack with the note of tar creeping on the finish.  The tannins are steak-worthy while the acidity makes me want a big, juicy one.  I think of a hearty beef stew for this wine, on a chilly winter day, watching a snowy college football game on TV.  Or, right now will do.


Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter

Rutini Trumpeter Malbec-Syrah Blows Own Horn

Rutini's Tupungato winery in Argentina's Uco Valley was Opened in 2008, well over a century after Felipe Rutini decided it would be a good idea to grow some grapes and make some Mendoza wine.  Hundreds of acres are planted to wine grapes now.

A scant 21 miles away is the 21,500 foot peak of Tupungato, the world's tallest active volcano.  The minerality resulting from the location defines the terroir of the region.  A 25-degree swing in temperature between day and night produces the effect that makes it a great wine growing region.  Harvest starts at the end of January and ends in early May, making it one of the longest growing seasons in the world.

In the Rutini Trumpeter Malbec-Syrah, those two grapes form a 50/50 split and come from Tupungato vineyards.  Aging took place in 40% new American oak, 40% new French oak and 20% used French oak barrels over seven months.  The wine underwent 100% malolactic fermentation, which lends a mellow and creamy mouthfeel to this wine.  Winemaker Mariano Di Paola has done a fine job of producing a wine that is interesting - even a bit challenging - despite being produced in quite large amounts. 

The 2012 Rutini Trumpeter Malbec-Syrah is rich looking with a medium full body.  Soft vanilla notes on red berry aromas mark the nose, while hints of mocha, cinnamon and tobacco give some complexity.  The palate is a delight - it's an oaky one, but a delight nonetheless.  The use of new oak really shows in this wine, with the wood-induced flavors and aromas standing firmly in the forefront.  There is a huge savory angle to this red blend, which I love for pairing with meat.  The tannins are supple and the finish is fairly long.  I've had more complex Syrah blends, but not for $11.

Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter