Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine 2005

Great celebrations cry out for something bubbly. My wife and I celebrated a wedding anniversary recently and decided to crack open a Calistoga sparkler that had gone unused last holiday season. It was a wine we had bought for $28, if memory serves.

The Bottle: A traditional Champagne-style bottle houses this sparkling wine. The label describes the wine as 100% Chardonnay and 13% abv. It's a Brut style sparkler produced in the traditional Methode Champenoise manner of secondary fermentation in the bottle. There is some barrel fermentation employed.

The Nose: This Blanc de Blancs pours up a very pale gold with a tall white layer of foam on top. The nutty nose shows lots of minerals and a bit of a funky side, probably a by-product of the wood.

The Taste: There's a strong sense of lime zest on the palate along with some tropical notes. It's a dry taste that frankly left me rather cold at first. I found that it grew on me, though, after a couple of of glasses. I don't normally have sparkling wine with food - I'm one of the few not that attracted to sparkling wine in the first place - but this time I had it with English farmhouse cheddar on a wheat cracker. It was really quite nice.

Tasting Event: Italy's Northern Lights

Hollywood wine tasters were once again treated to a fun and informative night out by Nicolas Soufflet and Bill Gotti at Gotti's Hollywood restaurant, Victor's Square.  The Thursday night soiree was a follow-up to Soufflet's previous Tuscan tasting, this time showcasing the wines of the northern areas of Piemonte, Friuli and Veneto.

The crowd was a little larger this time around - our party of fourteen took over an entire corner of the restaurant - but it was  still a very comfortable number, and all could hear Soufflet clearly as he imparted some of his extensive knowledge of Italian wine history.  In addition to the wines, there was a lovely risotto with green peas presented by Gotti and his staff which served as a wonderful nosh while perusing the wine selections.  Everyone was very complimentary of the whole experience.  They loved the learning as much as the wine.

The tasting was a bargain at $25 - the risotto was included - and the wines were discounted for those who wished to purchase some.  (Disclaimer: I purchased the tasting and two bottles of wine at the discounted price.)

Here are the wines we sampled:

Asti Classic Dolce Aromatico - From Asti in Piemonte, this is 100% Moscato Bianco.  That's the oldest grape in Italy, and the vineyards for this wine were founded in the 9th century.  It's produced by Casa Abbazia, as were several of the wines on the menu.  It's very pale with a bit of a funky nose and a sweet, tangy, fizzy presence on the palate - a very nice opener, with only 7.5% abv.

Friuli Aquileia Bianco Di Valpanera - A Friuli Aquileia white blend from Agricole Valpanera was next.  This bianco is aged in stainless steel.  It sits very pale in the glass with a floral nose and a crisp minerality.  Those minerals are a Friuli touch, according to Soufflet.  He pointed out that  many French varietals are cultivated in Friuli.  This wine features 40% Chardonnay, 30% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Friuliano.  I felt the Chardonnay was responsible for the nose, the Sauvignon Blanc for the taste and the Friuliano for the finish.

De Valier Soave Del Veneto - Our third wine was a Soave from Veneto.  This comes in at only 11.5% abv, with white peaches, pears and apples on the nose, along with substantial minerality.  There's a wonderful nutty flavor which really hangs around a while.  This was particularly good with the risotto, which was a Venetian recipe - heavy cream, butter and parmesan cheese.

Refosco Dal Peduncolo Rosso - The first red of the evening was perplexing.  On first sniff, I and everyone sitting near me, picked up a strong scent of movie theater popcorn. "Odd," I thought, "but maybe it's the wood."  Guess again, wine geek.  This 100% Refosco Dal Peduncolo Rosso is aged 12 months in stainless steel and refined for three months in the bottle.  I can't explain it except, as Soufflet offered, to say it's the terroir.  The popcorn element did subside after a while, leaving a much fruitier aroma.  It's a medium ruby color and a fairly tannic drink at first.  A spicy pepper taste mixes with a cranberry flavor, but with a darker side to it.  Soufflet told me that stainless steel aging of red wines is not uncommon in Italy. This wine is produced by Agricole Valpanera.

Abbazia Barolo 2004 - The vineyards from which this Barolo is sourced date back to the 9th century.  The wine offers a medium red color that is easily seen through.  It appears to have already started turning colors on the edges.  It's supposed to take on more of an orange tint with age.  The tart candy nose is very fragrant and floral.  The taste is quite dry and rather tannic.  This wine drank rather hot and was not too smooth.  It wasn't very well-received at my end of the table.

Abbazia Brachetto Piemonte -  This wine is red, red, red with a dark pink foam - gorgeous!  The nose smells of figs and nuts with a fresh and juicy element.  It's sweet and frothy on the palate, tasting of apples and strawberry.  This wine was supposedly used by Cleopatra in seducing Julius Caesar.  He reportedly found it almost as charming as Cleo.

"They Got This Recession On" Wines, Part 2

TBD Rouge Lodi Red Wine 2007

Here's the second in my series of Recession Buster wines. This one hails from Trader Joe's, home to many value-priced wines. It sells for $6, which is what I paid for it. This may turn out to be a nice value, too, as I have noticed some fairly good vino coming out of Lodi at very reasonable prices.

The Bottle: Zinfandel is described as the lead character, with Petite Sirah and Malbec following. The label promises a robust, spicy and engaging wine which will drink well over the next five years. DnA Vineyards of Ukiah, California produces this wine, which is sourced mainly from Lodi. The alcohol clocks in at 14.5% abv. The color is a very deep purple, quite a lovely looking wine.

The Nose: There is a tar-covered fruit aroma here that I find quite appealing. It's blackberries, I believe. It's a nice, open, pleasant smell - one that I most often notice when tasting at a winery. Accordingly, it brings up some nice memories. There's not a lot of alcohol present on the nose, either. That's rather surprising at 14.5%. I could just go on smelling it, it's that good!

The Taste: Finally I relent and take a sip. These tannins are very active. The mouthfeel is medium-full, but it's rather acidic, unfortunately, and goes down hot. While it's rolling about in my mouth the taste is actually quite nice, but the rest of the experience is somewhat lacking. Perhaps letting it sit longer will tame it. I gave it about a half hour in the glass before drinking, and it does not appear to have been enough. Aside from that, it's not too bad. A spicy taste with lots of of black pepper on the berries gives way to a slightly vegetal sense that will hopefully increase over a couple of days. That's not too glowing a recommendation, I suppose, but my main problem with this wine is the extremely tannic nature.

Footnote: After making these notes, it had been in the glass an hour or so and calmed down quite a bit. It became a very nice quaff. I should mention that it seems a little unusual this is a Zinfandel blend. It strikes me much more like a Syrah.

Wine at South Point on Sunset, Los Angeles

It was raining in Los Angeles, which is never good news for the drive home from work. Added to that problem was word of a power outage in Laurel Canyon. Turning west on Hollywood Boulevard from Fairfax confirmed our worst fears. Slow moving traffic up the hill. We quickly decided to jog over to Greenblatt's. That quickly began to look like a bad idea, as the parking lot was jammed and service is never that good when we're the only people in the place. A five minute wait with no attention from the servers had us up and out the door. Let's try South Point, right across the street. The crowd was much more manageable at South Point and we sat near the window with plenty of elbow room. After quite a spell without wine, South Point Argentine Grill - formerly Gaucho Grill - has finally gotten the legalities squared away. It's a nice wine list, with a good variety of Argentine wines to go along with the meaty Argentine menu items. I had the Trapiche Malbec, from Mendoza. Trapiche is widely known as a good producer, growing grapes in the foothills of the Andes Mountains. I liked the look of it, deep purple as it was. The nose brought blueberries and cherries, with a little smack of vanilla as a result of the oak. The mouthfeel was quite full and complete. Black cherry and some spiciness were the stars of the show. I had it with the chorizo appetizer - which is enough for a meal, if you ask me - and the match was quite nice. The drive home was just fine after our little stopover, by the way.

"They Got This Recession On" Wines, Part 1

Paraphrasing a line from O Brother, Where Art Thou?, I will spend a few posts sampling some bargain-priced wines to see how much bang I can get for under ten bucks. Here is the first in a series of Recession Buster Wines.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling 2007

(Disclaimer: The author bought this wine at the supermarket.)

The Bottle: The sleek Rhine-style bottle is one of my favorite wine containers. On my list, it comes in just after the box. Just kidding. The slender bottle may contain a sweet delight or a dry and pungent, well, delight. I can take a Riesling however it comes. This one is produced by Washington's "founding winery," as they call it, from vineyards in the Columbia Valley. The Chateau Ste. Michelle brand is well respected and readily available in a large variety of retail outlets. I don't like the way "grocery store wine" sounds, because there are many fine wines available at our supermarkets in Southern California. This brand is one you've probably encountered while shopping. It usually runs about $13, but I spotted it on sale for $7.

The Nose: There is a trace of that wonderful petrol aroma right away, although it doesn't define the smell. It's a really gorgeous nose, with melon and minerals appearing stridently. Don't drink it too chilled - I'd hate for you miss out on the bouquet.

The Taste: It's a clean and fresh taste on my palate with a variety of flavors. On one taste, the melon. On the next, some orange peel. Then there's that tinge of gasoline. And on each sip is the ever-present sense of minerals that really makes a white wine soar. In my mouth, a full and rich feel is accompanied by great acidity. This would be a perfect wine for a plate of grilled calamari or steamed mussels.

Chateau Montelena Zinfandel 2006

(Disclaimer: The wine reviewed here was bought at full price by the author during a visit to the winery.)

The Bottle: The front label features a drawing of the castle facade of the storied Chateau Montelena, the winery made famous in the 1976 Judgment of Paris. It was made even more famous in the movie about that event, Bottle Shock. While it was their Chardonnay that galled the Gauls in America's bicentennial year, I am writing today of their Zinfandel 2006. I also purchased a bottle of their Chardonnay during my visit to the Calistoga winery. I will cover that wine at a later date. This Zinfandel is 14.4% abv and cost $30 at the winery. It's an estate wine, grown, produced and bottled on the beautiful grounds of the winery. I was told in the tasting room that it's a 50/50 blend of Zinfandel and Primitivo, Zin's Italian relative.

The Nose: This is an extremely fragrant wine. Ruby red in color and not fully opaque, there are smells of currants and blackberries on the prominent nose along with an earthiness and a slight floral note.

The Taste: It tastes full and rich. Cherry is the highlight, but there is a darkness to it. It's a beautiful and menacing taste at once. The tannins are almost silky in this well-balanced wine. Finish is lengthy and just as delicious as the drink itself.

Full Disclosure

I have seen quite a bit about the new requirements the Federal Trade Commission is placing on bloggers. Full disclosure is now a requirement. Whenever I write about a bottle wine, if it came to me for free, I must disclose. If a winery offers me a tasting without charging me for it, I must disclose that when I write about the visit. If a publicist offers me a place on a press junket to Napa Valley, that disclosure must accompany the article I write about my experience.

Many journalists who work for magazines, newspapers and websites already operate under the restriction that everything must be paid for by the media outlet. This stance allows the writer to write whatever he or she needs to write, supposedly without consideration of the benefactor. Of course, when magazines pay for something so that a writer can write about it, and that something happens to be the subject of paid advertising in that very magazine, who is to say there is no external pressure applied on the writer to "like it."

Bloggers, however, are usually not listed on NASDAQ, and as such are sometimes obliged to take the offer of a "comped" trip in order to write about something they might not otherwise be able to experience.

Personally, I never read anything without wondering who's footing the bill. If Wine Spectator showers praise upon a Sonoma County Pinot Noir, how do we know they're not dirty? Sure, the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County is a source of truly fantastic Pinot. But did the magazine receive that wine as a free sample? Do Sonoma County Vintners advertise in the magazine? What about the Sonoma Chamber of Commerce? Maybe it's just that the wine is good.

When does a bona fide piece of journalism become a puff piece? Sometimes it's hard to tell. Most of my writing seems like puff to me. That's because I mainly write about things I like. My writing time is limited. Why spend it writing about something that displeased me? It would be easy for someone to jump to the conclusion that I got a wine for free, or was given a tasting gratis based on a favorable article. That doesn't mean it's the case.

When I write about wine or wine tastings, most of the time I am writing about something for which I put hard-earned money on the barrel head. There are times when a tasting room manager will offer me the tasting for free, knowing that I am doing research for an article that will mean publicity for the winery. Is the article I write about that tasting room tainted? Other times, they may not know who I am, but when I purchase a bottle they waive the tasting fee. If I review them favorably, am I guilty of some sort of vin de payola? Sometimes I pay for a tasting, and after it's done they offer me another taste or two of other wines. Does that taint the entire paid tasting, or just my opinion on the last two wines, which were free? I can see right now, the bookkeeping on this is going to be a real pain.

For the record, my take is this: Some things need to be regulated. In general, though, the less the government has to do with my life, the better I like it. I don't see this issue as something that really needs to be regulated in the first place. But since our legislators seem to think it does, I imagine it will be.

Just know the following. Whenever I write good things about a wine, it will be because that wine had good things to offer. If you don't see too many negative remarks here, that's because I don't sit around drinking bad wine. Well, there was that "Two Buck Chuck," but it actually wasn't all that bad.

When I was a rock'n'rollin' teenager, I began to read Rolling Stone magazine, in particular for the record reviews. I didn't need to be told what to like, but I knew from reading these writers' past reviews what to expect based on their stated opinion. If a reviewer had a history of favorable reviews toward a certain artist, I knew that reviewer was likely to give good reviews to more of the same. If more of the same is what I was after, I'd hope to see a favorable review from him. If I wanted something different than that, I'd hope to see him pan the music. If he did, maybe that new album would be right up my alley.

In any case, I'm pretty sure those Rolling Stone record reviewers from 1970 were getting freebies. But they wrote what they felt about what they heard. Knowing the writer's preferences made it easy to discern whether I should plunk down my paper route money for that music or not.

Now, of course, there are thousands of outlets where product reviews are available. It would be too much to ask that people follow reviewers closely enough to get inside all their heads , which probably wouldn't be a very pleasant place to be anyway. If, however, I tell you a wine smells like cat pee and that's the last thing you want your wine to smell like, you know which way to go.

All I do in Now and Zin is write my impressions. Take them with a chunk of sea salt, if necessary. But know that, if nothing else, they are honest impressions.

Celebration of Harvest

The Celebration of Harvest in Santa Barbara County is an October tradition - a time when the vintners in this amazing winemaking region take a little break from harvesting their fruit and roll out some of their wares for tasting in a centralized location.  Rancho Sisquoc Winery will serve as the scenic locale again this year.  Celebration of Harvest occurs Saturday October 10, 2009 from 1:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m.  The entire four-day weekend, though, features special events and tastings at many of the individual wineries.  Tickets to the Celebration cost $65, $25 for designated drivers, and there is a "Vintners' Visa" ticket for $35 that includes events at a selection of other wineries over the four-day weekend.

Beyond these events there are tons of other activities at nearly all the wineries.  Check out the Santa Barbara County Vintners' Association for all the juicy details.

A Couple of Nero d'Avola Wines

I have been drinking quite a few Italian wines lately, not because they are necessarily my preference, but because my wife, Denise, really loves them. Don't get me wrong - I really love me some good ol' Italian varietals. I just prefer exploring the wines of California more than any other area.

I hate to drink alone, however, and if the wife has an Italian wine open, that's okay by me.

It's possible the reason she's so drawn to Italian wines is because it's in her blood. Her family tree has roots in Sicily. And she does seem more drawn to Sicilian wine than the other regions of Italy. Whatever the reason, when we can enjoy a glass of wine together, it's a good thing.

I can compare two wines made from Sicily's most important red wine grape, Nero d'Avola. From the southern town of Avola, this grape was long used primarily as a blending grape. Since the 1980s, though, it has stood very well on its own. The characteristics a Nero d'Avola shows are somewhat akin to those of a new world Syrah, so this would seem to be a nice varietal for a California wine guy like me.

First, a bottle from home, then a restaurant selection.

Ruggero di Tasso Archeo Nero d'Avola 2007 - True to its reputation, I found Syrah-like pepper on the nose and palate with ripe berries in the forefront. A vegetal note also came into play that I found intriguing. The texture is smooth, but the medium mouthfeel left me wanting something a little more substantial. There's a decent amount of acidity and it would probably fare well with a nice pasta dish or some Italian sausage. The finish is not too dramatic. It's serviceable enough, and I think it usually sells for under $10, so expectations shouldn't be too high.

The restaurant selection came at Il Buco on Robertson in Beverly Hills, a favorite of ours. The wine was Cataldo Nero d'Avola 2006. If the Tasso didn't quite satisfy my new world taste, the Cataldo certainly didn't. A big, fruity nose with blackberries, plum and pepper came off as perfumy - even my wife wrinkled her nose a bit. There was a vegetal note on the back end in this wine as well, but it served more as a curiosity than anything else.

The wine had good color, but unfortunately I found the taste not so much "medium" as "thin and watery." It was not my style, although its fruitiness and freshness would no doubt be attractive to some. It was a very lightweight entry.

Neither of these wines held too much interest for me. They were both drinkable - the Tasso more than the Cataldo - but ultimately I like a little more body in a wine.

Maier Family Meritage Red Wine 2006

The Bottle: My bottle was signed by Robert Maier himself. He put that silver magic marker to it when I purchased the bottle at Wally's in Westwood - for only $22 instead of the normal $34 retail. What a nice guy he was. He and his son were there, pouring their wines and signing bottles for those who were interested. There were a few short but interesting tidbits about the family history - Roy Maier was a member of the Paul Whiteman Orchestra in the Roarin' '20s, f'rinstance. A bargain, a story and an autograph! That's a pretty good deal. This Meritage is a blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 3% Malbec, 3% Cab Franc and 1% Petite Verdot. Only 650 cases were produced by the St. Helena Road Winery, which is the name of Mr. Maier's outfit up Sonoma County way.

The Nose: Cherries, spices and coffee greet the sniffer. It's a really wonderful smell, full of lush nuances.

The Taste: The wine had nice tannins, big and strong. Despite that, it's pretty smooth. It spent 21 months in French oak, and the influence of the wood is noticeable, but not distracting. You'll get a very full mouthfeel and a lingering finish that is quite satisfying.

A Sunday in the Santa Ynez Valley

Living in Los Angeles has its good points.  One of them is that when it's time to get out of Dodge for a few hours, there are some pretty wonderful places to go.  Beaches, mountains, desert, forest - take your pick of pleasures.  When it's time for me to get away, one of my favorite locales is wine country.

I like the Central Coast.  There's something to be said for geographical desirability.  A scant two and a half hours from L.A. lies the Santa Ynez Valley.  I have really come to love the wines from this beautiful countryside, despite the pun in the title of my blog.  I have one colleague in the Santa Barbara area who always needles me that it should be "Now and Pinot."  Not a fan of wine puns, apparently.  But whatever the varietal, I so look forward to my tasting trips to that magical area.

One recent Wednesday came and it was time to get away.  But as is often the case, the occasion would not present itself until Sunday. When it did, though, we put Los Angeles in the rear-view mirror until the 101 turned right and all that was around us was wine country.

I'll limit myself to the four winery stops we made, although there were many other visits that added a lot of pleasure to the day. For one thing, you should stop at every single farm stand you see. There's still corn available, but the strawberries and blueberries are about done. Apples and pears are coming up, though.

*****

Foley Estate Vineyards and Winery - Bill Foley is the envy of many in the wine business. His vineyards in the limestone-rich Santa Rita Hills are perfectly situated for growing wonderful Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The beautiful wine country that surrounds his tasting room off Highway 246 provides the perfect locale for sampling those wines. The tasting room itself is pretty nice, too.

Tasting notes:
Chardonnay, Steel 2008 ($28) - There's a tropical nose - star fruit? - and also lime aromas. Clean and crisp on the tongue, well balanced with a very nice finish.
Chardonnay, Rancho Santa Rosa 2007 ($30) - 12 months in oak for this one. Apples and pears are on the nose with a great little hint of butterscotch on top of the crisp fruit flavors. It seems more crisp that lush. A buttery finish.
Foley & Johnson Dry Rose 2008 ($18) - Rhone blend (Syrah, Grenache, Grenache Gris and Cinsault) is a very pale salmon color. It smells just like a rose! Melon flavors, good acidity, very dry. Medium mouthfeel and finish. A tasting room exclusive.
Pinot Noir, Rancho Santa Rosa 2007 ($40) - A medium-deep red color, very pretty. Nose of blackberries and cherries. It's a very full bodied Pinot. Traces of tea on the palate. Good tannins, but very smooth.
Pinot Noir, Barrel Select 2007 ($50) - An earthy nose with black cherry aromas. Quite interesting on the tongue, with mushroom flavors and coffee, tea. Great finish. A tasting room exclusive.

Dierberg and Star Lane Vineyards - Jim and Mary Dierberg planted their first grapes in 1997. The idea was to buy some land either in Napa or Bordeaux. Those areas seemed a little crowded, though, and they fell in love with Santa Barbara County at first sight. Between the Dierberg and Star Lane vineyards, the microclimates are well-covered, from coolest to warmest. That gives Dierberg and Star Lane the flexibility to produce a number of wines from fruit sourced on their own property. The big, green barn is a head-turner and the tasting room occupies about a quarter of it.

Tasting notes:
Star Lane Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($20) - Very New Zealand. A steel/wood combination, the nose offers floral notes and grapefruit dominates the palate. Good acidity.
Dierberg Chardonnay 2006 ($32) - A funky little nose. There's a nutty flavor I really like. Rather heavily influenced by wood. Not a bad thing.
Dierberg Pinot Noir 2006 ($42) - Mushroomy minerals on the nose. Earthy taste with nice tannins. Maybe a little rough for some.
Star Lane Merlot 2006 ($36) - Coffee and chocolate on the nose. Very nice flavor. 9% Cab Franc, 3% Cab Sauvignon.
Dierberg Syrah 2006 ($34) - Very dark in color with a smokey, leathery nose. Tastes of chalky minerals, and blackberry. Yum.
Star Lane Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($42) - The floral, perfumy nose gives way to a taste of the Old West: dusty sage predominant. Very smooth. 80% Cab S, 15% Cab Franc, 5% Petit Verdot.
Star Lane Cabernet Sauvignon "Astral" 2005 ($80) - This reserve cab was a surprise taste. 100%, from the highest part of the Star Lane property. Very chocolatey, rich nose. Smooth, complex taste with earth and coffee notes, lucsious blackberry.
Three Saints Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($22) - Another surprise taste, not on the menu. Tastes of raspberry, cherry, blueberry. Good structure.

Shoestring Winery - I have probably passed Shoestring Winery two dozen times, always on the way to a restaurant or another winery. I made it a point to stop in and visit on this trip. I'm glad I did. The people were nice, the tasting room and the surrounding grounds were comfortable and the wines were tasty. Picnic tables around the corner from the front door were in bright sun when I stopped by in mid-afternoon, but a couple of large chairs in front were shaded by some spreading trees. It was nice and cool inside, of course, since the tasting room is actually in the barrel room.

Tasting notes:
Rose 2008 ($22) - Light orange in the glass. Not much acidity, but a lovely flavor is very attractive.
Pinot Grigio 2008 ($22) - Flowery with good acidity. Should be a hit with seafood.
Sangiovese 2008 ($35) - Outrageous nose! 26 months in oak. Tastes and smells of cherries and smoke. 10% Cab Franc. My favorite.
Merlot 2005 ($35) - Cola time! Same oak as Sangio (26 months) but seems a little excessive here. Cab Franc blend. Very soft tannins, quite smooth.
Syrah 2005 ($35) - Fruit-forward and oaky (28 months). Very full mouthfeel. They serve it with a square of chocolate, and it's a great idea. Very rich wine.

Lincourt Wines - I ended the day the same way I began it, at a Foley property. Lincourt is the little sister winery to Foley Estates. Founded in 1996 by Bill Foley at a former dairy farm, the grounds are beautiful and interesting. The winery and barrel room were once barns, and look it. The tasting room is a Sears Craftsman kit home of the 1920s. I'm sure it was a fine farmhouse then. I know it's a fine a tasting room now. The place is charming.

Tasting notes:

Pinot Blanc, Courtney's Vineyard 2008 ($20) - Melon on the nose, nutty at the end, minerals all over. My favorite, although there's a lot of competition here.

Sauvignon Blanc, Alamo Pintado Vineyard 2008 ($18) - One of Kris Curran's first vintages for Lincourt. My pourer pointed out that Curran is known for Pinot Noir, but she's also good with white wines. No kidding!

Foley and Johnson Rosé 2008 ($18) - The same as the pink from the Foley tasting room: Rhone blend (Syrah, Grenache, Grenache Gris and Cinsault) is a very pale salmon color. It smells just like a rose! Melon flavors, good acidity, very dry. Medium mouthfeel and finish.

Chardonnay, Rancho Santa Rosa 2007 ($26) - Plenty of citrus, but nice and creamy, too.

Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County 2007 ($28) - Dark fruit and spices on the nose. Big clove action. Medium mouthfeel, with a creaminess and smooth tannins. 12 months in French oak.

Merlot, La Cuesta Vineyard 2005 ($35) - Menthol on the nose? Normally Lincourt blends their Merlot with Cabernet. This one they felt was good enough to stand on its own. I agree.

Napa Rose - In The Lounge

A recent visit to Napa Rose at the Disneyland/California Adventure complex was quite enjoyable, despite the fact that we came without a reservation and had to sit in the lounge area. It turned out to be perfect, as we really weren't all that hungry anyway. In the lounge you can order any of the salads or appetizers from the menu. Perfect, since that's what we wanted. The wines, as expected, were outstanding. I tried a pair.

Domaine Tempier Blanc, Bandol, France 2007 This is a very nice wine! The white wines of Bandol take such a backseat to the reds, they are practically in the trunk. Only about 5% of the grapes in Bandol are white wine grapes. Pale golden in the glass, the nose has tons of minerals along with citrus and grassy aromas. It feels full in the mouth with a great acidity. Some pear and citrus come across on the palate, but it it dominated by the minerality. Enjoy a nice, long finish. It's an interesting blend of 58% Clairette, 19% Ugni Blanc, 19% Bourboulenc, 4% Marsanne. Excellent with seared scallops.

Dry Creek Chenin Blanc 2007 From an area where they really know how to make a great white wine, this namesake winery in Dry Creek Valley does a great job with Chenin Blanc. Aromas of honeysuckle and tropical fruit capture the nose. The pale wine is crisp and refreshing, with flavors of tart apple and melon. The acidity is great, perfect for food, and the finish is pleasing.

My wife and I enjoy the appetizers-in-the-lounge experience so much, that's where we've been found on our last few visits to Napa Rose. If you are really hungry, though, you should opt for the dining area where you can order entrees.

Tasting Event at the Wine House (and a wine at Napa Rose)

It was an unplanned day today. We just hopped in the car and started driving, making it up as we went along. Nearly every move we make has some sort of plan behind it, so it's nice sometimes to just go where the car wants to go.

Today it wanted to go to Beverly Hills for breakfast at Il Fornaio. Delicious. I had that little Italian sausage all coiled up next to some scrambled eggs. My wife had the eggs Benedict, Italian style. Side of raisin bread. Mmm mmm.

Then, a little driving around to kill time until a wine tasting event at the Wine House on the Westside of Los Angeles. It was a tasting of Italian wines staged by importer Oliver McCrum of Oakland. McCrum poured the wines himself, and added information about them as the tasters did their work. Here's how the wines struck me:

Sorelle Bronca Prosecco, from Venice - Citrus on the nose with a nuttiness on the palate I found quite engaging. Minerals and Melon abound.

Niedrist Terlaner Sauvignon - From Alto Adige, this expressive white has a very funky nose with a sort of petrol aroma. A bit of that comes through in the taste, as well, with a grassiness on the medium finish. Stainless steel.

Vallevo Montepulciano D'Abruzzo - Very nice nose, rather like cinnamon or cumin, very spicy. There's a dark fruit taste with an earthy edge. Not much finish, but nice while it lasted. 100% Montepulciano.

Germano Ettore Langhe Nebbiolo 2007 - Declassified Barolo. Light red with a perfumy nose; clove. Rather lightweight for Nebbiolo. Bright, easy drinker.

Tenute di Sella Lessona 2004 - Medium red with a vanilla nose. Rather earthy and a nice finish.

Sella Lesona San Sebastiano Allo Zoppo 2003 - Reserve bottling of the previous wine. Medium heft, vanilla and blackberry nose, very smooth taste, decent acidity.

After the tasting, we pointed the car in the general direction of Surfas in Culver City. The wife picked up a few items I could try to tell you about, but I don't really understand them. I'm happy to merely find them in the finished product she brings out of the kitchen.

Then we tried to go to Downey. Our friend Siouxie calls these sort of excursions our "adventures." Well, we ended up in Anaheim. A sudden desire for appetizers at Napa Rose in the Grand Californian Hotel overcame us.

If you have never been to the Grand Californian, and if you have even a passing interest in architecture inspired by the Arts and Crafts movement, you should not let the Disneyland location deter you. Entry into Disneyland is not required.

Great scallops, a fantastic sampler platter featuring pork ribs that fell - no, jumped - off the bone, shrimp with a black bean and garlic sauce and skewered chicken provided the dining portion of the visit.

I had a dry Riesling, Pfeffingen Pfalz 2007. The nose was full of minerals and a slight petrol aroma. I normally call this minerality "wet rocks," but I think this time I'll call it "wet sidewalk." The taste was very clean, with minerals and an orange zest flavor.

After the last few trips to Orange County, we decided that the Santa Ana Freeway would not be a nice way to end such a nice day. The car agreed, and we took the 91 to the 405. How many times can you say that the 91 Freeway was a great end to your day? It was for us.

Lincourt Pinot Blanc 2008

The Bottle: A beautiful clear bottle shows off the pale color nicely. On the front we learn that the grapes come from the Santa Rita Hills, Courtney's Vineyard, specifically. On the back we learn how wonderful the growing conditions are in Santa Barbara County for Pinot Blanc. They say it has something to do with the long, dry growing season. The wine shows an abv of 13.6%.

The Nose: I drank the wine quite chilled (it was a hot day) and as a result, many aromas were not within my reach. I thought there was some melon there, and the minerals made a nice play in the bouquet.

The Taste: Very refined, this wine. A clean and crisp feel in the mouth, along with just enough acidity, produces a tendency to gulp. But try to slow down and savor. Good minerals are here, with lots of wet rocks in the first part of the mouthful. Then a wave of pears and apples comes in, very crisp, not baked. Some lightly nutty flavors come in at the end. Very refined, indeed. This is a delicate wine that gives a wonderful drinking experience and a nice finish, too.

Tasting Notes: Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant 2004

The Bottle: Crazy labeling has been a hallmark of Bonny Doon product. This label tells the story of the vineyard owners in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, who were afraid flying saucers - or "flying cigars" - would harm their vineyards if they attempted to land there. So an ordinance was passed banning such extraterrestrial visitations. Hence the name and the nice artwork on the front, depicting a flying cigar looking for a landing place. Bonny Doon's address is given as "Santa Cruz, CA, USA, Earth," not once but twice. Head Doonster Randall Grahm has a somewhat offbeat sense of humor, for which he is roundly admired. Follow him on Twitter, if you don't already. Nearly all his tweets are worth reading. How did I get so sidetracked? Wasn't I telling you about Le Cigare Volant? Was I just abducted by one? Before I lose the thread again, the abv is 13.5% and the mixture is a fine Rhone style blend of 38% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 12% Mourvedre, 8% Carignane and 7% Cinsault. Let's get busy before those aliens come back. Oh, I got it on sale at Wally's for $24.

The Nose: The dark, inky wine has a fabulous smell. I get aromas of red berries, cherries - possibly in the form of cherry cola - and some smokey, leathery licorice. There's a sense of tar in there - a very dark and complex nose. Is that what the aliens have come for? I know I would travel far for it.

The Taste: The leathery quality steps in front on the palate. Black cherry follows right behind. That wonderful, dark smokiness lingers on the finish. Dark and delicious, Le Cigare Volant scores one for E.T.

Afterword: Thought I'd mention that the 2004 Le Cigare Volant is mentioned in Food and Wine's October issue as one of the "50 classics you must try."

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Tasting Notes: Cascinetta Vietti Moscato d'Asti 2007

The Bottle: There's a lot of Italian on the label, but even with my limited multi-lingual abilities there's enough English to give me a pretty good idea what's going on. Moscato d'Asti wines come from Italy's Piedmont region, in the northwest near the town of Asti. They are low alcohol wines by law - 5.5% abv. I bought this little gem for $16 in a Glendale wine store my wife and I like to frequent, although far too infrequently. Rosso Wine Shop, 3459 1/2 N. Verdugo Road, has a great selection of Italian wines. Jeff Zimmitti has Spanish, French and Californian in there, too, but we always seem to linger in the Italian aisle. Jeff puts on a nice tasting, too, every weekend. Oh yeah, the wine was Cascinetta Vietti 2007.

The Nose: The aromas were a little hard for me to get, as the wine was cold. It seemed to be rather floral and peachy.

The Taste: The taste certainly didn't hide, though. It was sweet and fizzy - not a full-fledged sparkling wine, but with enough bubbles to make it worthy of a special occasion, or a special person. The feel is quite full in the mouth, and the fizziness seems to give it a bit of an edge. Honeyed apples and pears were in the forefront, and a rather nutty note made itself known in the pleasant finish. It was a lush delight, and a wonderful change-of-pace wine if you go in for such a thing. And why shouldn't you?

Charles Shaw White Zinfandel 2008

Maybe a little explanation is in order. I never really had any inclination to try Charles Shaw wine. That may expose some wine snobbery on my part, or it may show me as a pragmatist who knows what to expect from a two-dollar wine. Anyway, I was given this wine - no, really - by a friend at work who somehow turned up with a couple of cases of different types of "Two Buck Chuck." She offered and I accepted. Opting for what I figured would be the varietal that posed the most challenge for Mr. Shaw, I chose the White Zinfandel over Merlot and Cab. I have always subscribed to the words of Diogenes the Cynic, "I like best the wine drunk at the cost of others." Thank you, Sharone, and to whomever ponied up a couple of double sawbucks for the wine in my friend's car, cheers! I'm about to have my first Charles Shaw experience.

The Bottle: Not much in the way of description on this label. It's sourced from Napa and Sonoma grapes, varietal(s) unknown, and carries an 11% abv.

The Nose: The wine was a little over-chilled - my bad - and that made it tough to dig out the aromas. It wasn't too bad, though. It was a rather interesting combination of strawberry soda and the bubble gum sticks that used to come in packages of trading cards. I'm expecting a pretty sweet wine here.

The Taste: Well, the sweetness was there, but it was muted. I found it to be a peachy kind of flavor like that of a peach diet Snapple. There was also a bit of watermelon on the palate. The acidity seemed a lot better that I expected it to be, but I wouldn't recommend pairing it with anything heavier than a salad. As a sipper, it was quite serviceable, assuming you like your back porch wine a little on the sweet side.

I had heard and read so much about this brand that I was actually excited to have the opportunity to try it. I also found myself quite happy about not finding it to be worthless plonk. While it was no award winner in my book, it certainly had a decent quality-to-price ratio. If you're broke and invited to a back yard party, go ahead and pick up a bottle or two of Two Buck Chuck. Cover the labels, and they'll probably be none the wiser.

Change is coming in Geyserville, California.  You may not see it yet, but you can feel it.  The town's excitement - and anxiety - about the very near future is tangible.  The tiny community of about 1,600 wine-loving souls is on the verge of significant changes.  Geyserville's burgeoning wine industry has produced star-quality product for decades.  Now, at a time when wine has taken a much higher profile in our society, Geyserville is on the precipice of cashing in.

The citizens of Geyserville have a palpable attitude of hope - hope that change is coming, and hope that the change will be good.  They are a small town - downtown is not much more than a wide spot in the road.  But the change these people are hoping for is a change that will widen that road, and populate it with more and more businesses to serve the tourism that the change will bring.  It would be easy to read a little desperation into all that hope, but that's not how it comes across.  These people know what they have - a collection of extremely good wineries and vineyards which are responsible for wines of a very high quality.  But they know that is not enough.  What they need now is for people to notice.  And people are noticing.

The former Chateau Souverain was purchased by the Francis Ford Coppola wine empire, and the change has already started there.  Coppola is moving his public profile in the wine biz from his Rutherford property to the Geyserville facility, which makes a huge statement all on its own.  His Oscars are already there, and his expansion - more on that in a bit - is set for completion by the summer of 2010.  Nearby River Rock Casino has expansion plans of its own.  Although their hotel plans have been put on the back burner due to the economy, they are at least still on the stove.  Just a small economic upturn could be the spark that relights the fire.  This sort of change will bring more people to the area, and a higher profile to a wine region that richly deserves a little more notice.

Geyserville has the good fortune to sit in one of the most amazing grape-growing regions in the world.  The Alexander Valley of northeastern Sonoma County is blessed with great soil and several diverse microclimates that rival the most prominent wine locales in France and Italy.  The wineries in Geyserville produce wines of a consistently high quality, easily able to stand alongside the bottlings of any other California appellation.  The grape growers and winemakers of Geyserville and the surrounding area are just as smart and just as passionate as their brethern from other locales, and probably a lot more down to earth.  Aside from a few big names situated here, most of the wine producers in Geyserville are small boutique wineries with limited production.  Big name or small, some pretty fantastic wines are being produced around Geyserville.

As I wandered about the community I couldn't help but notice how friendly and open everyone was.  Each winery I visited seemed to be one of the nicest places in the state in which to hang out.  I could ask anybody any question and get an answer that was thoughtful and insightful.  Everywhere I went, "laid-back" was the prevailing attitude.  There wasn't an Italian sportscar in sight the whole time I was there.  In fact, it would have been no surprise at all to see a horse tied to a hitchin' post.

Wineries To Watch

 Geyserville is home to several of the bigger names in winemaking.  The old Chateau Souverain now bears the impressive name of Francis Ford Coppola Presents Rosso & Bianco.  It sounds like it should be spoken with a fanfare accompanying it.  Coppola is known as an idea man.  His ideas are being made into reality at Rosso & Bianco, and when he's done, he will have changed the face of Geyserville dramatically.  His plans - which are frequently emended as the work progresses - call for the winery to be made into a wine resort, with dining, swimming, lounging and even activities and a play area for the kids.  Coppola's changes will attract more people to Geyserville and, with a hotel not included in his plans, will push eager tourism dollars out into the community.

One of the many boutique wineries that populate Geyserville, Trione Vineyards and Winery, has developed such a reputation with the wine alone that they can place a tasting menu on the counter which features nothing but award-winning wines.  Only one of them was produced in a quantity greater than 600 cases, and two of them were made in lots of less than 500 cases.  The tropical Sauvignon Blanc, the apple pie Chardonnay, the earthy Pinot Noir and the Cabernet Sauvignon which spent 24 months in French oak barrels are big highlights on a roster that has only winners.

Jim Rickards of J Rickards Winery would probably bristle at the mention of the word "boutique" in connection with his operation, but that's the cattleman in him talking.  His interests turned from bovine to old vine when he bought his vineyard in the 1970s and began selling grapes to other area winemakers - Silver Oak, Geyser Peak and Dry Creek Vineyards to name a few.  His plants date back to 1908 and he has augmented the originals with newly planted clones of old vines.  He and his wife Eliza began producing extremely small batches of handmade wines in the early '90s for friends. The reception was enthusiastic enough that they finally decided to start bottling on their own with the 2004 vintage.  That move made them a lot more friends.

The Pedroncelli family runs the oldest winery in the Alexander Valley, and is one of a handful of Italian-American families in the wine business there.  The Pedroncellis were around when the Dry Creek Valley floor was all prune trees.  They've done quite well with the grapevines, though.

TV legend Raymond Burr didn't really want his vineyards to bear his name.  But when Burr passed away his longtime partner Robert Benevides decided it was only right.  Today, a very limited amount of top-notch wine is still made with care.  One look at the view from the tasting room door and you'll know why Burr didn't mind that long drive up the hill.

Stryker Sonoma's showcase tasting room literally puts the vineyard on display, with ceiling-to-floor glass for walls. Murphy-Goode Winery is in Geyserville, although their tasting room is located in Healdsburg.  Clos du Bois and Geyser Peak both have names that are familiar to California supermarket shoppers.

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Now, Geyserville is presently about as big as a street corner - at least the downtown business district is.  But it's nice to know that you can get plenty of tastes without wandering too far from your accommodations.

Locals tasting room was one of my favorite spots.  There you can sample from 75 different wines by 11 local producers like Dark Horse, Eric Ross, Atrea and Hawley, just to name a few.  They like to pour a "varietal comparison flight," several tastes of one kind of grape from different producers.  It's a great way to experience the differences and similarities of various wineries side-by-side.  Of course, they also pour what ever you'd like to try, so skip around the extensive two-page tasting menu all you like.  Everything you taste is for sale by the bottle in the store.  The shop is funded by a collective of the wineries, and the staff knows what they're pouring, so any questions you may have about what you're tasting will be answered.

Terroirs Artisan Wines handles only four local wines, Godwin Family Wines, Hughes Family Vineyards, Palmeri and Pena Ridge.  I tasted both the Godwin and the Hughes while I was there, and they both impressed me.

You should also try and get into Route 128 Vineyards and Winery tasting room.  Pete and Lorna Opatz opened a tasting room in what was once the parts department of one of the first Ford dealerships in the country.  Their 60 combined years of experience with grapes pays off well in their boutique wines.  They produce less than 500 cases per year, the standouts being a crisp and lovely Viognier, a lively Zinfandel and an award-winning Syrah which mixes chocolate and blueberry flavors in a delightful way.  In the tiny room, you may find art from local Twyla Gettert or even a pairing event with nephew and culinary artist Rian Rinn.  Route 128 is a definite "must taste" in Geyserville.

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Some people consider "wine futures" to be a good investment.  I think the time is ripe for some enterprising entrepreneurs to buy futures in Geyserville.  Services are needed now, and the need will grow exponentially when the Coppola project and the casino hotel are reality.  The town lacks a true grocery market and needs a bakery and a coffee shop that open early.  Although Diavalo and the Hoffman House are hard to beat, a couple of extra dining choices would be nice and more lodging will be needed, too.  Oh, and that little downtown area could use some sprucing up.  Geyserville has great wine.  Now it just needs to get dressed up a bit before the company comes over.  Keep an eye on the Alexander Valley, and Geyserville in particular.  You'll be seeing a lot more of them in the future.

Il Poggiale Trebbiano 2007

The Bottle: The front label proudly proclaims this Tuscany White Wine to be a product of Italy, with an abv of 12.5%. It's imported by Casa Torelli of Santa Monica.

The Nose: There's a lot of minerality in the aromas, producing a fairly pungent nose to go with the pale golden color. A faint fruitiness or even a floral aspect is present, but definitely in a supporting role to the aroma of wet rocks. Nice!

The Taste: This wine feels very good in the mouth. It's got a some heft and a good, clean taste that carries a bit of smoky nuttiness along with the minerals and fruit. It's great with Parmesan cheese.

Mosby Roc Michel

The Bottle: The tall-shouldered Bordeaux bottle features a front label with several hints. "Rhone Varietal Blend," "Monterey County Red Table Wine," "Fremir Vineyards." It's a Mosby, without the usual art show, though. Too bad. The Mosby label is generally as beautiful as the wine behind it. This wine clocks in with an abv of 13.5%. The back label promises flavors of black cherry, cola and cinnamon. It does not say so on the label, but my tasting room notes mentioned a blend of Syrah and Mourvedre. It goes for $22 at the winery.

The Nose: It's lush in here. A bit of alcohol and the faint trace of the oak, but what really comes forward is the cherry that back label told us about. I don't get the cinnamon, but there is some sort of sweetness creeping through, like a candy I can't quite name. Faint traces of, oddly enough, Super Bubble bubble gum.

The Taste: That cinnamon is there on the palate, right up front. A good deal of heat, too, upon opening. But it's a fruit explosion in my mouth, tons of cherry cola. This wine really finishes pretty well, too. The nice ruby color is see-through, but not too light. The mouthfeel is full and yummy. This will be nice with a pepper steak or a pork chop. This makes me want to schedule a trip to Buellton. I'm going to want some more of this.

Afterword: The second night it was open, the wine began to show some interesting aspects that were not apparent to me upon opening the bottle. It began to display a more vegetal side on the nose and palate, something akin to a bell pepper. This occurrence sort of dialed the sweetness back a notch and replaced it with a darker, more insidious character. It's still a very good wine. It seems to get more complex the longer it is open.