Dessert Wines of Monterey County

The holidays always call for special wines.  You can bring out all the heavy-hitting Cabernets, big Bordeaux blends and dry-as-a-bone Rieslings you want.  The wines that create the biggest stir and the ones that make the biggest impression on your guests are dessert wines.  Sweet and delectable, dessert wines fit in with the holiday mood almost as well as cranberry sauce and pumpkin pie.  As a matter of fact, they fit right in with the cranberry sauce and pumpkin pie.  The Monterey County Vintners & Growers Association supplied me with a small treasure chest of these sweet delights and asked me to pass along my impressions.  The following wines were provided to me at no cost for the purpose of review.  All of them are in 375ml bottles - except the Potbelly Port, which is in a 500ml bottle - and the prices were provided by the MCVGA.

 

J Lohr Vineyards Late-Harvest White Riesling ($25) -  The 2006 vintage was the first White Riesling crop since 1995 for J Lohr's Bay Mist vineyard in the Arroyo Seco region of Monterey County.  It's a 100% varietal wine with 12.3% abv and a luscious 10.3% residual sugar.  Don't write this one off by sniffing "sweetie" and moving along.  The sugar belies a wonderful acidity that makes this wine great for pairing with desserts.  You may like it with an apple tart and vanilla bean ice cream.  You may also like it all by itself.  There's a nose of honeyed fruit and, on the palate, that wonderful "bitter with the sweet" sensation one hopes for in a Riesling.  A beautiful, rich golden color looks great in the glass, too.

 

Joyce Vineyards Pudding Wine 2007 ($28) - The Johannesburg Riesling grapes for this wine came from the Franscioni Vineyard.  Luscious to look at - it's a deep, rich golden color - the aromas and the flavor remind me of a very fine sherry.  It should go very nicely with a pumpkin or pecan pie.  If your sweet tooth isn't shouting for attention, you may find that it makes a fine dessert on its own.  12.5% abv may be a tad high for some, in a dessert wine, but you could minimize the effect of the alcohol by doing as the Monterey wine people recommend - have a pear poached in Pudding Wine.

 

Paraiso, Souzao Port, Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County NV ($25) - Listed as a "tasting room only" wine on their website, this 18.5% abv port-style wine is made from the Souzao grape, which is a Portuguese varietal but now becoming more common in California.  The Paraiso Estate features only about three acres of Souzao, but they managed nearly 600 cases of production.  The wine is aged in French and American oak for two years before bottling.  Quite viscous and very full in the mouth, it's got a rich nose full of candy cherry aromas and an explosive taste that reminds me of raisins and chocolate-covered cherries at the same time. It's a bit rough and over-the-top, so don't expect too much subtlety.  Serve this with chocolate and score big with sweet-toothed guests. 

 

Graff Family Vineyards, Chalone, July Muscat 2007 ($16) - Billed as a sweet table wine, this is made from grapes grown in the Chalone appellation.  It's 100% July Muscat, quite a rare grape variety developed in the '50s at UC Davis.  Its 10% residual sugar and 11.3% abv level gives a soft and aromatic wine with strong floral notes.  It's an amazing accompaniment to an apricot or pear tart.

 

Ventana Vineyards Orange Muscat 2008 ($18) -  Tropical fruit and vanilla greet the nose, while the flavors of peaches dominate on the palate.  The alcohol level is 15% - quite a bit higher than most Muscats - and residual sugar is 7.2%.  You can serve this chilled as an apertif, or alongside a biscotti.

 

Mer Soleil LATE Late-Harvest Viognier 2004 ($36) - Botrytis-influenced Viognier gives a warm, golden color in the glass and the aromas are as sweet as honey.  The taste is sweet, too, but with a good level of acidity that sports a nice hint of orange peel.  Expect a lush and long finish.  Pair this with Foie Gras or with warm blue cheese-stuffed Mission Figs for a delightful dessert.

 

Pessagno Late-Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($25) -  Fully Botrytised grapes from the Arroyo Seco appellation clock in at 13.8% abv and 18.4% residual sugar and spent five months in wood, making this a dessert wine lover's dessert wine.  This Sauterne-style wine is dessert all by itself, but you can drizzle it over fruit or let it make a Creme Brulee memorable.

 

Kendall-Jackson Late-Harvest Chardonnay 2006 ($25) - Floral and cinnamon aromas lead to candied fruit flavors in this lush drink.  The winemaker calls it "the nectar of the gods."  He may be biased, but he does know what he's talking about.  This sweet Chard really dresses up a plate of butter cookies.

 

Mission Trail, Potbelly Port ($36) - Maybe the unflattering name arises from the fact that this wine is jammed full of grapes.  There are six Portuguese grapes here - Touriga Nacional, Tinto Cao, Tinta Roriz, Souzao, Tinta Madeira and Tempranillo.  Brandy was added halfway through the fermentation.  The result is a Port that is jammy and rich, with flavors of chocolate-covered cherries, black pepper, anise, tobacco and clove.  Top off your feast with this portly port and a chocolate bread pudding for a dessert as memorable as the holiday.

 

"They Got This Recession On" Wines, Part 3

Tres Pinos Tierra Blanca is a San Luis Obispo County wine, but that's just where the grapes come from. The winery which makes it, San Antonio Winery, is actually in downtown Los Angeles. It's something of a historical landmark. This wine was bottled specifically to be marketed at Trader Joe's as a bottom-shelf $5 wine. That's the history lesson, now let's see how good this recession-busting tastes today.

The Bottle: Tres Pinos is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Viognier and Chardonnay. The alcohol level is relatively low at 13.5% abv. The label promises "bright and crisp with aromas of citrus and wildflowers."

The Nose: If they say it's citrus and wildflowers I'm smelling, so be it. I detect a floral presence along with a tropical note - perhaps guava. But there is something else in there that I cannot quite pin down. Not an unpleasant nose, but nothing to go out of your way for.

The Taste: At $5, you may ask, "what did you expect?" Well, not much, to be truthful. Frankly I think I got my money's worth. That, considering the price, is both good and bad. I detect the Sauvignon Blanc and the Viognier, but the Gewurz and the Chard are pretty much lost on me. It's actually not terrible, and I might sit on the porch and down a couple of glasses without realizing it. There's not much acidity, so we'll skip the food pairing portion of the program. There's also a medium-length finish that you may wish wasn't so lengthy. If I haven't mentioned it already, serve this wine chilled. No, refrigerated. You really don't want it warming up as you drink it.

I don't write too many unfavorable tasting notes, and it doesn't sit well with me when I do. I like wine, and I enjoy liking it. This one simply does not hit me in the right place. If all you have is $5, and you need to spend it on white wine, I suppose it would be considered a value play for you, if it weren't for the fact that Clay Station's Viognier is about the same price at TJ's and it's actually good. I wish I had opened that wine today. Maybe I will in the coming weeks.

Disclaimer: I paid for the wine I wrote about.

Opening a Wine Bottle With a Shoe

Have you ever seen someone open a bottle of wine with a shoe?  Neither had I.  I'm curious enough to want to try this, but I'm going to wait until I'm someplace I don't have to clean in case the worst happens.

Healdsburg Holidays

Sonoma County's little town of Healdsburg is just about as cute as little town's get.  Throw in some Christmas decorations and a good excuse for strolling around the town square, and you've got one fine holiday getaway on your hands.

Get Healdsburg's holiday season officially underway with Healdsburg's Downtown Holiday Party, Friday November 27, 2009 from 5:00 to 9:00 p.m.  This traditional celebration at the town square will offer a brass quintet, jazz, horse-drawn carriage rides and plenty of holiday refreshments and shopping.

Healdsburg's Wine Country Christmas Strolling Dine-Around is an excellent opportunity to have a holiday taste of Healdsburg.  It happens twice, both times in the middle of the week.  The two Wednesday-Thursday combos are on December 9th and 10th and December16th and 17th at a cost of $85 per person, tax & gratuities included.

What's in store for you are a pair of three-hour dining experiences featuring the many restaurants around Healdsburg's charming town square.  You'll be able to sample everything from provincial French to rustic Italian to Japanese to pub grub.  There's organic vegan food, California cuisine and plenty of farm-to-table locovores on hand, too.  Naturally, the tasting rooms around the square will also throw their doors open for the event

Since it's the time of year for giving, please notice that a portion of the proceeds benefit Healdsburg Shared Ministries Food Pantry.  For more information and a list of the participating restaurants, go to healdsburg.com.

Temecula Valley's Fall Party

The Temecula Valley Harvest Celebration and Barrel Tasting got underway today.  From the fun everyone seemed to be having, it would be a great way to liven up your Sunday, too.  Sunday November 8th is the second and final installment of the wandering festival that celebrates the harvest in Temecula's wine country.

Today we got a bit of a late start and lingered some at each location.  After all, why rush?  Still we managed to squeeze in visits to four wineries along Rancho California Road:  Callaway, Hart, Thornton and South Coast.


The tickets were waiting for us at Callaway, so we began there.  They had turned their barrel room into a buffet area, serving the little pork belly samples and caper relish.  That was a delicious start.  At the wine table, they were pouring Chardonnay, Merlot and a barrel sample of a Cabernet Sauvignon.  I tried the 100% Merlot and was quite impressed with its dark complexity and smoky character.  The Cab had only been in the barrel 12 months and had another 6 to 12 months to go, so it was a bit young.  Even with the "Cabernet Nouveau" taste, it was nice and fruity and hopefully will be wonderful when finished in 2010.


Next was a short backtrack to Hart.  This little, rustic winery is one of the oldest in the Temecula Valley.  And one of the best, I think.  Through the facility and out to a back area, the Hart folks were serving Italian sausages with a spicy marinara sauce.  To go along with that little plate, some really wonderful Cal-Italia wines.  The Sangiovese and the Barbera were both excellent and paired quite well with the food.  I wandered in to the tasting room hoping to find their wonderful Rhone-style blend, "Three."  Alas, the blend has changed and no longer features Mourvedre.  A loss for me, but a gain for Tempranillo fans, as the latest version contains that grape along with Grenache and Syrah.


Back on the road.  At this point, it may be wise to point out that on this Temecula Valley winery tour - or any winery-to-winery, day-long excursion - one should either have a designated driver or do a lot of spitting.  If you can't stand to spit out good wine, the DD is a requirement.  A lot of people utilize limousine services to haul them and their parties around.  There were a lot of long, black stretch limos on the roads.  Whatever your solution, figure it out before you start.





Thornton was our next stop.  In the tasting room, we were greeted with a rather sweet sparkling wine which my wife fell in love with and a NV Brut that had a fantastic nose.  They were serving a delicious apple bread pudding and a pulled pork and risotto dish.   Their Viognier was full of aroma and flavor and a barrel sample of Syrah showed it was nearly ready for bottling.  We had planned on a late lunch at their Cafe Champagne restaurant, but things were a little busy there and we opted to keep moving and shoot for lunch in Old Town Temecula.


First though, our final winery stop at South Coast.  This resort/spa/winery is huge and probably the biggest showcase in the Temecula Valley.  In 2008 they became the first Southern California Winery ever to win the coveted Golden Bear Award at the California State Fair as "Best Winery in California."  This summer, they won it again.  As I wandered around the beautiful grounds, I couldn't help but notice the staff was set up for a wedding! As if they didn't have enough going on.  The crowds certainly gathered around their serving table, with the smoke from an open grill full of rubbed beef providing the bait.  A fairly delicious slice of meat was served with a Tempranillo sauce.  Over at the pouring station, there was ample space to enjoy a sampling of a nice Grenache Rose and and an even nicer Tempranillo.

On your travels through the Temecula Valley you can expect to encounter wines that feature aromas and flavors of sage, eucalyptus and chapparal.  It's said they have especially flavorful Chardonnays and Merlots.  I can't speak for the Cards, but the Merlots I have tasted are full of depth and very tasty.  The Dolcetto and Malbec wines come highly recommended and I found some lush Tempranillos and Sangioveses.

You won't find too many of these wines in stores, so you will want to plan on picking up a bottle - or twelve - of your favorites from the wineries.

The Celebration is a great excuse - if you need one - to get over to Temecula and enjoy a beautiful day and a burgeoning wine area that is primed to break out and claim its share of attention.

Tasting Event: Stars of Cabernet

Here are my tasting notes from the Stars of Cabernet event held on November 5, 2009.

This tasting event was almost NBC - Nothin' But Cab. I did see a stray bottle of Chardonnay, but I'm not telling who brought that interloper into the house. This was a showing of big, bad, brawny red wines which wear their tannins on their sleeves, and wear them quite well, too.

There were 39 tables in the Peninsula Hotel's Verandah Room in Beverly Hills, each one sporting from one to four different wines the representatives were pouring. I did not have the time to visit with each winery, as I would have liked, but I was quite happy to talk with the representatives of the ones with which I could get some face time. Here are the wines I was able to sample, and my thoughts on each:

Fisher Vineyards - Great-grandpa Fisher was the guy who started the company which made GM's car bodies for generations. "Body by Fisher" was him. The carriage body business is remembered in the "Coach Insignia" Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2005. Blended with Cabernet Franc and Merlot, the wine is rich in nose and palate. It's a complex taste that embodies dark berries, chocolate and a spiciness underlying. Great finish. Fisher's Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma, Mountain Vineyard 2005 is much fruitier, with a fresh berry taste. As the name implies, the vineyard is on a steep hillside. The grapes seem to love the fact that it faces west and gets a lot of sun. The Wedding Vineyard 2005 is all Cab. This vineyard features four different soil types. The wine features Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc as a blend. Flavor is abundant in this one, from olives to graphite to a sweet element that tries to hide but can't.

Santa Barbara County's Longoria was pouring only one, "Evidence," their Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec. A medium mouthfeel is joined by a brilliant flavor package of fresh, spicy berries. It didn't hit me like a full-blown Cab because the Cab Franc is an equal player in the mix while the Merlot comes in not far behind. The Malbec is a 4% partner. The lighter touch gives it a lot of versatility with pairing. The finish is fantastic. I had to stop myself from continuing to the next table while it subsided.

Miner Family Vineyards were represented well enough by their great "The Oracle." The 2005 vintage is branded "Napa Valley Red" due to the blend consisting of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Cab Franc, 14% Merlot, 7% Malbec and 6% Petit Verdot. Blackberries are up front, but there's a host of other flavors - coffee, spices, some black cherry and a cedar quality that is irresistable.

Peju brought only one wine, and it was a brand new one - I'm sure that Lisa Peju told me it hasn't been released yet. A blend with Merlot and Petit Verdot, the wine is quite smooth and really shows its 18 months in French and American oak. Spices come through on the nose and palate and the taste is plummy with a hint of hot chocolate.

Pine Ridge Vineyards was pouring three Cabs. Their Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 blends Petit Verdot and Merlot. The nose is full of cherry, smoke and chocolate while the palate shows an almost spicy cassis side. It's a very distinctive and seductive wine. I'd like to have some for the holidays.

The guys from Poem Cellars were eager to show off their two Cabs, "Marriage" from 2006 and "Tastevin" from 2005. Both seemed influenced by their 22 months in French oak more than most wines on display here. Not that it's a bad thing, mind you. They both displayed a dark earthiness I found very appealing. "Tastevin" had a particularly expressive nose.

Silverado Vineyards brought a trio with them. The Napa 2005 Cab is 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc. It had a dark side - black cherries, blackberries, earth - that hit me in the right spot. The "SOLO" Stags Leap District 2005 is all Cabernet Sauvignon and very dark itself, with a layer of anise to go with the cassis and chocolate. Their Limited Reserve 2005 brought out the big tannins. Grab a steak and have at it. The Cabernet Sauvignon is joined by equal small parts Merlot, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot.

Star Lane Vineyard is in that little place in Happy Canyon where a hot-weather grape like Cabernet Sauvignon can thrive while it's all Chardonnay and Pinot Noir around it. The 2005 "Astral" has a dark and earthy smell to it, and the taste follows that lead, with a flavor I can only think of as tobacco leaf that really jumps out at me. It's a creamy wine that's silky smooth on the toungue.

Trefethen Family Vineyards' Estate Cab 2005 smells of cherry cola and tastes of a chocolatey jam. What really knocked my socks off was their HaLo 2004. With bay leaf on the nose and clove and nutmeg in the flavor profile, this wine had me thinking of Christmas even though I knew it was about 80 degrees right outside the door. Well, in Beverly Hills it probably will be 80 degrees on Christmas Day, but you know what I mean. This is a great choice for Christmas dinner - I think it would pair fabulously with turkey - but at $175 a bottle, this may be better as one of the gifts under the tree.

T-Vine Cellars showed one that I just had to taste before leaving. Their Napa Red "T" Blend 2006 is 85% Cab, 15% Primitivo. I'm a sucker for anything utilizing an Italian-style varietal. This one is rich with the flavor of Italian wine and could be a new favorite of mine.

This event was put on by LearnAboutWine.com, who sponsor a series of luxury tastings of this nature. In fact, you may want to know about their next one, the 7th annual Stars of Santa Barbara on January 27th, 2010 at the Peninsula Beverly Hills.

Disclaimer: I was admitted to the tasting at no charge as a member of the media.

Winemaker dinner series at Paso Robles Inn starts with Ancient PeaksWinery

Wine lovers lucky enough to be in the Paso Robles area should make note of a new series of winemaker dinners coming to the Paso Robles Inn.  The series kicks off Thursday November 19, 2009.  Seating starts at 6:00 p.m. and dinner begins a half hour later.  It costs $50 per person, all inclusive.  You do need to make reservations, and seating is limited.  Call the Paso Robles Inn at 805.238.2660.  The Inn is located in downtown Paso, 1103 Spring Street.


This autumnal special will feature a four-course dinner paired with wines from Ancient Peaks Winery.

Ancient Peaks co-owner Karl Wittstrom will introduce each wine with each course, and will also share stories and thoughts about the recent 2009 harvest.  Ancient Peaks is a family-owned winery whose wines hail from the estate Margarita Vineyard, the southernmost vineyard in the Paso Robles appellation near Santa Margarita.  It is the only vineyard in the vicinity, nestled into the rugged Santa Lucia Mountain range just 14 miles from the Pacific Ocean.

The menu is prepared by Executive Chef Kelly Wangard and Sous Chef Karrie Hills.  The card will include:

*Grilled autumn vegetable terrine paired with the Ancient Peaks new release 2007 Syrah
*Roasted parsnip soup with pumpkin seed oil and parsley chip paired with the 2006 Oyster Ridge red blend
*Merlot-braised short ribs with orzo, butternut squash and cranberry orange gremolata paired with the 2006 Merlot
*White chocolate cherry bread pudding paired with the new release 2007 Zinfandel.

Buellton Comes Alive

Everyone who has ever driven along California's State Route 101, north of Santa Barbara and up into the Central Coast wine country, knows Buellton.  You most assuredly have stopped there, even if you didn't know where you were at the time.  "Pea Soup Andersen's" is a roadside marker better than any you'll find on a map.  But to most people who pass through the junction of Highways 101 and 246, that's about all there is.  Even to wine lovers, it was mainly a place get off the freeway on the way to Solvang or the Santa Rita Hills.

Recently I thought that on our next trip to that area my wife and I would pop in and see what was going on at a place called Terravant.  This winemaking facility has been down at the end of a cul-de-sac called "Industrial Way" for several years.  The street is actually a little more picturesque than the name might lead one to believe, but nobody's driving down there expecting to find wine heaven.  What's there is pretty close to that, though.

All the way down that unfortunately-named thoroughfare is Terravant's tasting room, Avant Tapas and Wine.  The building is plainspoken and presentable, but it seems a little large for a tasting room.  That's because it's a lot more than that.

There's an interesting piece of art on the face of it, an almost-abstract wire representation of a wine bottle.  Inside is a small lower lobby with stairs and elevator.  Once on the second floor, I completely forgot I was a stone's throw from Andersen's Pea Soup.

Laid out before my eyes was a rather large space of mahogany and burgundy, spanking new and decorated in as beautiful a version of wine country moderne as I had ever seen.  The bright windows along the left wall looked out to the Santa Rita Hills.  The interior windows down at the far right looked into the vast wine production area, a huge tank room.  I walked immediately to the window that overlooked the tanks and saw, a hundred-fifty feet away, a man with a baby riding in a seat that he carried on his back.  The man held a wine glass up to a spigot, drew some wine from the tank, swirled and sampled it.  After he evaluated it, he held it up where the child could reach it and allowed the tot to dip a few tiny fingers into it.  It was another generation being introduced into the world of winemaking.



I later learned from Nick Morello that it's not unusual to find local winemakers roaming the facility.  In fact, the tasting room has become something of a hangout for the 32 vintners who have wine in the works at Terravant.  "They come in to socialize with each other, or to do some work on the laptop while gazing out at the Santa Rita Hills," Nick said.  "It's also quite common for vintners to come in and pour their wines for patrons while talking about their winemaking philosophies."

All these were wonderful discoveries, but wait - there's more.  Avant has a kitchen that turns out some really tasty tapas, too.  The food is so good that many winemakers do food and wine pairing events here.  For more on the culinary aspect, I refer you to my wife Denise's Middle Crescent Kitchen.



By the way, Avant's tasting facility is a wall-long automatic wine dispenser which can handle around three dozen different wines.  You access the wines - by pour, half-glass or glass - with a plastic card which records all your purchases.  You pay for them when you are ready to leave.  Naturally, all the wines featured in the dispenser are wines that are produced by the vintners who utilize Terravant's facility.  All the wines are available by the bottle, too.  This is good news, because many of them are rather hard to find.  For serious tasters, there didn't seem to be a spit bucket, although I'm sure one can be scrounged up when needed.  The tasting bar is huge, so having some elbow room shouldn't be a problem even when it's crowded.

I don't remember when I've been so surprised to find something unexpectedly.  Avant Tapas and Wine goes beyond being simply another wine country tasting room.  This is an immediate strong link in the Santa Rita Hills wine community.  Not only that, but it turns Buellton into a genuine destination.  People go to Pea Soup Andersen's because they are in Buellton.  People will come to Buellton specifically to go to Avant.



Here are the wines I sampled at Avant:

Alere Vinyard RVG 2006 Santa Barbara County - This Rhone-style blend of 55% Roussanne, 30% Viognier and 15% Grenache Blanc is full of minerals with a light fruitiness that probably goes well with nearly everything they serve.  I know it goes with the shrimp.

Daniel Gehrs Gewurztraminer 2008 - Monterey County grapes form a floral and sweet wine that is extremely fuity and quite enjoyable.

Hitching Post Generation Red 2006 -Bordeaux, Rhone and Northern Italy meet and become friends in this blend:  36% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot, 23% Syrah and 8% Refosco.  It's bursting with cherries on the nose and palate.

Summerland Syrah Bien Nacido 2007 - Muscular, but easy to get along with.  Great finish.

Westerly Merlot Santa Ynez 2006 - Lots of minerals come through here for a very earthy taste.  Spicy with a good finish.

Avant has an always-changing tasting menu which features wine and tapas.  During our visit the menu offered five wines to be paired with tastes of tapas:

Daniel Gehrs Chenin Blanc 2008 - Try this with the grilled shrimp

Alma Rosa Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County 2008 - Taste this with the prosciutto

Hitching Post Pinot Noir Cargasacchi 2006 - Match it with the duck confit

Ovene Cabernet Sauvignon, San Antonio Valley 2006 - Manchego, anyone?

Sort This Out Cellars, Vino Nostra, Secret Blend 2006 - Give this a go with the pizza

Field Blends: Interview with Jim Rickards

California Zinfandel wines produced from "old vine" vineyards may be hiding something from you.  Your favorite "old vine" Zin may be hiding its specific varietal makeup.  There's nothing particularly subversive about this, though.  Think of it as "throwback winemaking."

Most Zinfandels that are produced using grapes sourced from vineyards which have been around since the late 1800s or early 1900s are actually field blends.  A field blend is a wine made from two or more different varietals that are grown, harvested and fermented together.  The co-fermentation occurs in a single tank, with all the varietals contributing their different components to the wine at the same time.

If this sounds like a novel idea, consider that this was once the standard in California winemaking.

The earliest vineyards in the Golden State were planted by Spanish missionaries.  They would plant a vineyard whenever they built a new mission so that sacramental wine could be made.  The first grapes were termed Mission grapes, and they were brought from Mexico.  As the Gold Rush brought new settlers to California in droves, the wine industry expanded along with the population.  European immigrants planted their vineyards to field blends as they had done in their homelands.  Italian winemakers were particularly influential in California beginning in the 1880s.

Zinfandel,  which bears a familial resemblance to the Italian Primitivo, is actually descended from Croatia.  Zin was the prime grape in California for many years, and is a primary facet of many field blend vineyards.  Any "old vine" Zinfandel wine produced in California is almost assuredly a field blend of several, or even many, varietals.

*****

Recently I had the good fortune to continue a conversation with Jim Rickards, of J Rickards Vineyards and Winery in Geyserville.  It was a conversation that began this summer when I visited his winery and tasting room on a press trip.  There were about a dozen of us at the time, all clamoring for a few words with the lord of the manor, so our talk was short and finished with a promise to continue when we both had the time.

The topic of our conversation was decided in the tasting room, where Jim poured some of his field blend red wine for the group.  I have long been fascinated by field blends, and spoke with the cattleman-turned-farmer-turned-winemaster about this historic winemaking style.

"A field blend," Jim explained, "is a wine produced from a vineyard where several different varieties of grapes are grown together.  Those varieties are comingled throughout the winemaking process.  It's the goal to do this.  Those different types of grapes are grown together, harvested all at the same time in their varying degrees of readiness and fermented together into a finished wine."  Some field blend vineyards are planted orderly, in a row-of-this-row-of-that fashion.  Others are more haphazard, with different varietals growing next to each other in rows.

Today, Blends are typically made from different wines that are produced separately and mixed together after the fact.  But that wasn't always the case.

"No.  Around turn of century it was common practice to plant field blends.  Most older vineyards you see today were planted to field blends originally.  A lot of them were ripped up and replanted in a more modern way, with more saleable grapes for the time.  A lot of the old vineyards were torn out in the 1970s to make way for Cabernet Sauvignon, which at that time was starting to be a really popular grape.  Most of those old field blend vineyards were made up of grapes which you might not even recognize by name today, especially the whites.  Alicante Bouschet is a red grape that was popular in field blends.  That was a grape with a really thick skin; it was ideal for transporting back East from California.  It also had very intense coloring, a very deep red, which allowed for it to be diluted quite a bit.  It was planted pretty widely during Prohibition.

"The wine produced from the field blend grapes is known as 'old-style Zinfandel.'  It's the Zinfandel blends which are still viable these days.  They didn't even call it Zinfandel - they called the field blend grapes 'mixed blacks' back then, a racist term.  Field blends sort of fell out of vogue after Prohibition.  You know, Prohibition was a real boon to grape growers back then.  They could sell direct to the consumer.  Commercial production of wine all but stopped, but people could still make up to 200 gallons a year for personal use, and a lot of people did."

Economics played a big part in making field blends so common in pre-Prohibition California.

"Fermentation tanks were expensive, made from redwood back then, and very expensive.  There weren't too many big wine producers.  Most of the wineries were little mom & pop operations, and they couldn't afford the luxury to have but one, maybe two tanks.  Each tank held 2 to 3,000 gallons.  They wouldn't keep the wine very long.  They would press, then rack into barrels and then ship it in the barrels to a bottling plant.  The barrels would be shipped back to the winery and the bottled wine was sent along to the negociante who purchased it.

"So, since a winemaker knew he only had one tank, he'd figure if he wanted a blend he had to plant it that way.  It was a much smaller scale we're talking about; smaller vineyards, all the plowing was done with horses so the yield was very limited.  Old-time grape growers would plant the blend they wanted years before they would ever see a grape from it, they had the percentages of the different grapes all figured out.  Zin likes to be ripe, but as the ripening goes on, acidity dwindles.  Put some Carignane and Mourvedre in there for better acidity.  Plant some Petite Sirah for intense tannins and color, to add density.  Muscat is good for spiciness and aromatic qualities."

Do you find that there is a big mystique or nostalgia aspect today surrounding field blends?

"Not really, I don't think most people know when they have a field blend in their glass.  The "old vines" thing is what really grabs people, old-vine Zinfandel, but most people don't know that those old vines are actually a composite of different varietals.  It's not their fault, though.  A winemaker may not want to advertise the field blend nature of the wine, as it may raise a question of regulation: 'How much Alicante Bouschet is in that Zin you're selling?'  Any wine from a 100 year-old vineyard is definitely a field blend, whether it's advertised that way or not.

"It's not unheard of to have a field blend that's not actually planted that way.  If a winemaker simply doesn't have enough tanks to go around, and there's a tank 80% full of one varietal, if a small lot of something else comes in he may just say, 'Oh, just put it in there.'"

Besides Jim's property, there are only a few other field blend vineyards remaining in the Geyserville area.

"They were probably all that way once.  But the ones that have survived planted as field blends, probably a handful.  My neighbors, Seghesio, have a vineyard even older than mine.  I think it dates back to 1895.  The Osborn family owns one in the Alexander Valley that probably dates back to that same time frame; the Ridge Geyserville Vineyard, probably a few more."

*****

Ancient vineyards are rather numerous around Sonoma, probably owing to the area's status as the birthplace of the California wine industry.  Ravenswood, Ridge, the Bucklin family's Old Hill Ranch and Saxon Brown are but a few of the wineries that tout a field blend as part of their offerings.  The Bucklin property is said to date back to 1885.  D'Argenzio in Santa Rosa makes a Gewurztraminer which they bill as a field blend.  However, their varietal listing shows it as 100% Gewurztraminer.  Some producers - Bucklin and Girard come to mind - utilize the old term "mixed blacks" in their labeling, indicating that not everyone considers the phrase to be politically incorrect.

They say that everything old is new again, and anyone who hangs on to their wardrobe long enough can tell you that the cycle of fashion swings in a circle.  Field blends - once a standard in winemaking - may make a resurgance.  But, in the old-vine vineyards of Sonoma County, they never really went away.

De Valier Soave 2008

I found a description of Soave that I just love. Pardon me while I borrow this from sfgate:

"Soave, a picturesque village complete with storybook castle and crenellated walls, lies just north of Verona in Italy's Veneto region. Its Classico zone encompasses about 4,200 acres over a series of volcanic hills, about 25 percent of the total area. The indigenous Garganega grape forms Soave's core. Sometimes it's blended with Trebbiano di Soave; locals are quick to point out that grape is different from popular Trebbiano Toscano, which they believe makes vapid wine, and which has been banned from the Soave region."

Read more of this article here. That's the way to run your wine region. Hate a grape? Ban it! Normally I would be opposed to such extreme measures, but there is something about the way wine from Soave tastes that makes me think they know what they're talking about.

The Bottle: There's not much in the way of information on the label, but the wine clocks in at 11.5% abv and is imported by Casa Torelli. Grapewise, it's 80% Garganega Del Veneto / 20% Trebbiano Del Veneto. If memory serves - I really need to start writing prices down - this wine cost me about $12 with a bit of a discount from the wine tasting where I bought it.

The Nose: Once the bottle is open and the wine is poured, things start to get interesting. I picked up white peaches, pears and apples on the nose, along with a substantial sense of minerals. It pours up a lovely golden color in the glass, by the way.

The Taste: Quite crisp and full of a sense of that volcanic soil that actually overrides the fruit, this wine features a wonderful nutty flavor which really hangs around a while. I figured this would be a good match with food, and I have been proven correct twice. At the tasting event, risotto was served - a Venetian recipe, with heavy cream, butter and parmesan cheese - and it paired very well. The Soave also tasted wonderful later with my wife's Angolan rice, chicken and delicata squash dish. She used grains of paradise in the broth, and the wine really set that flavor off nicely. If you're interested, you can find that recipe - and a world of others - at I Cook The World.

Temecula Valley Harvest Celebration Barrel Tasting

If you haven't taken time to explore Southern California's wine country around Temecula, the perfect opportunity is on the way.  The Temecula Valley's Harvest Celebration Barrel Tasting Weekend is set for Saturday and Sunday, November 7th and 8th, 2009.  The fun lasts all day, from 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. both days.

This big event will allow you to enjoy visiting 20 plus wineries for paired wine and food sampling.  You'll get first crack at newly released wines, unreleased wines and you'll be treated to barrel and tank samples.  If you've never experienced wine this way, you should make it a point to do so.  Nothing makes you feel more like a part of the wine experience than enjoying samples right from the barrel.

If you have never visited the Temecula Valley, know that they feature not only one of my personal favorite wineries - Hart - but also South Coast Winery - the winner of the California State Fair Winery of the Year Award two years running!



Tickets for the event range from $59 to $89 and can be purchased online.  Go to the Temecula Valley Winegrowers Association website, or call 800.801.9463.

Francis Coppola Diamond Series Petite Sirah 2007

The Bottle: Sporting a stylish purple - they call it "plum" - label, this entry in the Diamond Collection from Francis Coppola usually runs about $19. I found it as one of the "5-cent wines" at BevMo recently during their "5-Cent Sale." Buying one bottle at regular price and another for 5 cents brings the per-bottle price down to about $10, including tax. I'm sorry to go on and on, but I love getting a bargain. This inky-black wine comes in at 13.4% abv.

The Nose: The aromas shown here are fruity and smoky. There's a cherry cola scent along with a little chocolate.

The Taste: Coppola serves up a full mouthfeel on this Petite Sirah and it's quite smooth if given enough time to open up. I found a half hour made a big difference. The flavors are like blackberries and dark fruit with hints of vanilla to soften it. 16 months in French oak makes its presence known, but does not overwhelm. The wine is quite dry despite all the fruit that's happening on the palate. Be prepared for a bit of astringency after the finish. I would image this would be very nice with a rack of lamb or a pork chop. Personally, I think it's quite nice all by itself.

Wine at Ugo, Culver City

The wine is a Falanghina, Feudi Di San Gregorio. I am waiting for a
business meeting here on a Sunday afternoon. How do I get myself into
these situations? At least the NFL game is on the flat screen. Oh,
and the wine is terrific. Minerals for miles, with a strong tropical/
grapefruit presence. I seem to get this every time I'm here. With good reason.

Doce Robles Barbera 2007

I tried this wine a while back, and these are my notes on it.

The Bottle:
The pleasant vineyard drawing on the label is probably a view from Highway 46 outside of Paso Robles. I'm just guessing about that, but it's a nice picture anyway. Pardon the "borrowed" 2006 vintage label here, but I liked the way the picture showed in this shot much better than in the one I took. Estate grown, 100% Barbera grapes are aged 24 months in American oak. The alcohol runs 13.9% abv.

The Nose:
Big licorice aromas right away reminded me of smelling a wine at a winery tasting - the nose always seems so much more powerful to me in a tasting room. Lots of berry fruit came through. They say on the label you should expect some raspberry, but I don't get that. Maybe a raspberry/chocolate blend.

The Taste:
There was a very full mouthfeel, with a vibrant and oaky texture. This wine sat quite well in my mouth and fairly screamed for food. I tried a few gorgonzola crackers with it - thank you, Trader Joe's - but that didn't hit the mark. I would love to try it with an Italian dish, maybe a mushroom risotto. If memory serves - and that's always hit and miss - bought this wine for about $10 at Trader Joe's. I think it's well worth the money. Hopefully they won't run out before I get more.

Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine 2005

Great celebrations cry out for something bubbly. My wife and I celebrated a wedding anniversary recently and decided to crack open a Calistoga sparkler that had gone unused last holiday season. It was a wine we had bought for $28, if memory serves.

The Bottle: A traditional Champagne-style bottle houses this sparkling wine. The label describes the wine as 100% Chardonnay and 13% abv. It's a Brut style sparkler produced in the traditional Methode Champenoise manner of secondary fermentation in the bottle. There is some barrel fermentation employed.

The Nose: This Blanc de Blancs pours up a very pale gold with a tall white layer of foam on top. The nutty nose shows lots of minerals and a bit of a funky side, probably a by-product of the wood.

The Taste: There's a strong sense of lime zest on the palate along with some tropical notes. It's a dry taste that frankly left me rather cold at first. I found that it grew on me, though, after a couple of of glasses. I don't normally have sparkling wine with food - I'm one of the few not that attracted to sparkling wine in the first place - but this time I had it with English farmhouse cheddar on a wheat cracker. It was really quite nice.

Tasting Event: Italy's Northern Lights

Hollywood wine tasters were once again treated to a fun and informative night out by Nicolas Soufflet and Bill Gotti at Gotti's Hollywood restaurant, Victor's Square.  The Thursday night soiree was a follow-up to Soufflet's previous Tuscan tasting, this time showcasing the wines of the northern areas of Piemonte, Friuli and Veneto.

The crowd was a little larger this time around - our party of fourteen took over an entire corner of the restaurant - but it was  still a very comfortable number, and all could hear Soufflet clearly as he imparted some of his extensive knowledge of Italian wine history.  In addition to the wines, there was a lovely risotto with green peas presented by Gotti and his staff which served as a wonderful nosh while perusing the wine selections.  Everyone was very complimentary of the whole experience.  They loved the learning as much as the wine.

The tasting was a bargain at $25 - the risotto was included - and the wines were discounted for those who wished to purchase some.  (Disclaimer: I purchased the tasting and two bottles of wine at the discounted price.)

Here are the wines we sampled:

Asti Classic Dolce Aromatico - From Asti in Piemonte, this is 100% Moscato Bianco.  That's the oldest grape in Italy, and the vineyards for this wine were founded in the 9th century.  It's produced by Casa Abbazia, as were several of the wines on the menu.  It's very pale with a bit of a funky nose and a sweet, tangy, fizzy presence on the palate - a very nice opener, with only 7.5% abv.

Friuli Aquileia Bianco Di Valpanera - A Friuli Aquileia white blend from Agricole Valpanera was next.  This bianco is aged in stainless steel.  It sits very pale in the glass with a floral nose and a crisp minerality.  Those minerals are a Friuli touch, according to Soufflet.  He pointed out that  many French varietals are cultivated in Friuli.  This wine features 40% Chardonnay, 30% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Friuliano.  I felt the Chardonnay was responsible for the nose, the Sauvignon Blanc for the taste and the Friuliano for the finish.

De Valier Soave Del Veneto - Our third wine was a Soave from Veneto.  This comes in at only 11.5% abv, with white peaches, pears and apples on the nose, along with substantial minerality.  There's a wonderful nutty flavor which really hangs around a while.  This was particularly good with the risotto, which was a Venetian recipe - heavy cream, butter and parmesan cheese.

Refosco Dal Peduncolo Rosso - The first red of the evening was perplexing.  On first sniff, I and everyone sitting near me, picked up a strong scent of movie theater popcorn. "Odd," I thought, "but maybe it's the wood."  Guess again, wine geek.  This 100% Refosco Dal Peduncolo Rosso is aged 12 months in stainless steel and refined for three months in the bottle.  I can't explain it except, as Soufflet offered, to say it's the terroir.  The popcorn element did subside after a while, leaving a much fruitier aroma.  It's a medium ruby color and a fairly tannic drink at first.  A spicy pepper taste mixes with a cranberry flavor, but with a darker side to it.  Soufflet told me that stainless steel aging of red wines is not uncommon in Italy. This wine is produced by Agricole Valpanera.

Abbazia Barolo 2004 - The vineyards from which this Barolo is sourced date back to the 9th century.  The wine offers a medium red color that is easily seen through.  It appears to have already started turning colors on the edges.  It's supposed to take on more of an orange tint with age.  The tart candy nose is very fragrant and floral.  The taste is quite dry and rather tannic.  This wine drank rather hot and was not too smooth.  It wasn't very well-received at my end of the table.

Abbazia Brachetto Piemonte -  This wine is red, red, red with a dark pink foam - gorgeous!  The nose smells of figs and nuts with a fresh and juicy element.  It's sweet and frothy on the palate, tasting of apples and strawberry.  This wine was supposedly used by Cleopatra in seducing Julius Caesar.  He reportedly found it almost as charming as Cleo.

"They Got This Recession On" Wines, Part 2

TBD Rouge Lodi Red Wine 2007

Here's the second in my series of Recession Buster wines. This one hails from Trader Joe's, home to many value-priced wines. It sells for $6, which is what I paid for it. This may turn out to be a nice value, too, as I have noticed some fairly good vino coming out of Lodi at very reasonable prices.

The Bottle: Zinfandel is described as the lead character, with Petite Sirah and Malbec following. The label promises a robust, spicy and engaging wine which will drink well over the next five years. DnA Vineyards of Ukiah, California produces this wine, which is sourced mainly from Lodi. The alcohol clocks in at 14.5% abv. The color is a very deep purple, quite a lovely looking wine.

The Nose: There is a tar-covered fruit aroma here that I find quite appealing. It's blackberries, I believe. It's a nice, open, pleasant smell - one that I most often notice when tasting at a winery. Accordingly, it brings up some nice memories. There's not a lot of alcohol present on the nose, either. That's rather surprising at 14.5%. I could just go on smelling it, it's that good!

The Taste: Finally I relent and take a sip. These tannins are very active. The mouthfeel is medium-full, but it's rather acidic, unfortunately, and goes down hot. While it's rolling about in my mouth the taste is actually quite nice, but the rest of the experience is somewhat lacking. Perhaps letting it sit longer will tame it. I gave it about a half hour in the glass before drinking, and it does not appear to have been enough. Aside from that, it's not too bad. A spicy taste with lots of of black pepper on the berries gives way to a slightly vegetal sense that will hopefully increase over a couple of days. That's not too glowing a recommendation, I suppose, but my main problem with this wine is the extremely tannic nature.

Footnote: After making these notes, it had been in the glass an hour or so and calmed down quite a bit. It became a very nice quaff. I should mention that it seems a little unusual this is a Zinfandel blend. It strikes me much more like a Syrah.

Wine at South Point on Sunset, Los Angeles

It was raining in Los Angeles, which is never good news for the drive home from work. Added to that problem was word of a power outage in Laurel Canyon. Turning west on Hollywood Boulevard from Fairfax confirmed our worst fears. Slow moving traffic up the hill. We quickly decided to jog over to Greenblatt's. That quickly began to look like a bad idea, as the parking lot was jammed and service is never that good when we're the only people in the place. A five minute wait with no attention from the servers had us up and out the door. Let's try South Point, right across the street. The crowd was much more manageable at South Point and we sat near the window with plenty of elbow room. After quite a spell without wine, South Point Argentine Grill - formerly Gaucho Grill - has finally gotten the legalities squared away. It's a nice wine list, with a good variety of Argentine wines to go along with the meaty Argentine menu items. I had the Trapiche Malbec, from Mendoza. Trapiche is widely known as a good producer, growing grapes in the foothills of the Andes Mountains. I liked the look of it, deep purple as it was. The nose brought blueberries and cherries, with a little smack of vanilla as a result of the oak. The mouthfeel was quite full and complete. Black cherry and some spiciness were the stars of the show. I had it with the chorizo appetizer - which is enough for a meal, if you ask me - and the match was quite nice. The drive home was just fine after our little stopover, by the way.

"They Got This Recession On" Wines, Part 1

Paraphrasing a line from O Brother, Where Art Thou?, I will spend a few posts sampling some bargain-priced wines to see how much bang I can get for under ten bucks. Here is the first in a series of Recession Buster Wines.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling 2007

(Disclaimer: The author bought this wine at the supermarket.)

The Bottle: The sleek Rhine-style bottle is one of my favorite wine containers. On my list, it comes in just after the box. Just kidding. The slender bottle may contain a sweet delight or a dry and pungent, well, delight. I can take a Riesling however it comes. This one is produced by Washington's "founding winery," as they call it, from vineyards in the Columbia Valley. The Chateau Ste. Michelle brand is well respected and readily available in a large variety of retail outlets. I don't like the way "grocery store wine" sounds, because there are many fine wines available at our supermarkets in Southern California. This brand is one you've probably encountered while shopping. It usually runs about $13, but I spotted it on sale for $7.

The Nose: There is a trace of that wonderful petrol aroma right away, although it doesn't define the smell. It's a really gorgeous nose, with melon and minerals appearing stridently. Don't drink it too chilled - I'd hate for you miss out on the bouquet.

The Taste: It's a clean and fresh taste on my palate with a variety of flavors. On one taste, the melon. On the next, some orange peel. Then there's that tinge of gasoline. And on each sip is the ever-present sense of minerals that really makes a white wine soar. In my mouth, a full and rich feel is accompanied by great acidity. This would be a perfect wine for a plate of grilled calamari or steamed mussels.

Chateau Montelena Zinfandel 2006

(Disclaimer: The wine reviewed here was bought at full price by the author during a visit to the winery.)

The Bottle: The front label features a drawing of the castle facade of the storied Chateau Montelena, the winery made famous in the 1976 Judgment of Paris. It was made even more famous in the movie about that event, Bottle Shock. While it was their Chardonnay that galled the Gauls in America's bicentennial year, I am writing today of their Zinfandel 2006. I also purchased a bottle of their Chardonnay during my visit to the Calistoga winery. I will cover that wine at a later date. This Zinfandel is 14.4% abv and cost $30 at the winery. It's an estate wine, grown, produced and bottled on the beautiful grounds of the winery. I was told in the tasting room that it's a 50/50 blend of Zinfandel and Primitivo, Zin's Italian relative.

The Nose: This is an extremely fragrant wine. Ruby red in color and not fully opaque, there are smells of currants and blackberries on the prominent nose along with an earthiness and a slight floral note.

The Taste: It tastes full and rich. Cherry is the highlight, but there is a darkness to it. It's a beautiful and menacing taste at once. The tannins are almost silky in this well-balanced wine. Finish is lengthy and just as delicious as the drink itself.