Pinot Days Southern California, Grand Tasting

In the film Sideways Miles delivers a wonderful monologue about why he likes Pinot Noir.  He talks at length about the "thin-skinned, temperamental" grape which "needs constant care and attention" in order to thrive.  Miles calls Pinot Noir's flavors "the most haunting and brilliant and thrilling and subtle and ancient on the planet."  It's obvious Miles has a deep and abiding respect not only for the grape, but for those growers who have what it takes to "coax it into its fullest expression."

Sunday January 17th, 2010 there was a celebration of the Pinot Noir grape, those who do the coaxing and those who take the raw ingredients in hand and make the magic happpen.  In Santa Monica Airport's Barker Hangar, nearly a hundred wine producers gathered to pour their Pinots and talk about them to interested individuals during the Pinot Days Grand Tasting.

The picture at left shows the crowd of "trade tasters" who began filing in at 11:00 a.m.  When the general admittance started two hours later, space became considerably harder to find.  The Pinot Noir kept flowing, though.  Wide open and in plentiful supply at some tables, hidden behind a mass of humanity at others, the wine was the star at each.  Most producers brought out their 2006 and 2007 vintages, while some featured a fresh-faced 2008.  There was even one 2009 I spotted.  It was a rose.  From Pinot Noir, of course.

At this type of event, I judge the most popular wines by counting how many times I have to make my way around the facility before I can muscle in to those oh-so-desirable tables.  There were five notable wineries at Pinot Days which required me to make several laps around Barker Hangar before the crowd subsided enough to allow a bit of access.

The crowd at Flying Goat practically went away by the second time I passed.  Their loss.  Flying Goat's '07 Dierberg Vineyard was a fabulous wine with hints of spearmint.

I was able to taste at Merry Edwards the third time around.  I liked the Sonoma Coast Pinot better than the Klopp Ranch, but both were fine efforts, lush and dark.



It was my fifth pass before I could sample the wares from Hitching Post.  They served a nice array, including their Cork Dancer with its lovely nose and vanilla candy scents.  St. Rita's Earth features just that, a healthy dose of Santa Rita Hills terroir.  Highliner has sweet aromas, firm tannins and layer after layer of flavors.  It seemed to be a real crowd pleaser.

Just across the aisle was J Vineyards. I made it through on the fifth time around here, too.  Their Nicole's Vineyard Pinot was perhaps the fullest mouthfeel I experienced all day.  It's a very smooth and deep wine.



By my admittedly unscientific method, Clos Pepe Vineyards was by far the busiest for the longest.  It was my sixth time around the hangar before I finally gave in and stood in line to taste Wes Hagen's Pinot Noir.  It was worth the wait.  The 2006 showed a lot of depth.  Hagen even brought along a Pinot Noir Rose, 2009, which was not too sweet and not too tart.  Each time I had passed, Hagen was literally holding court.  Pouring his wine while firing off fast-paced repartee with the faithful, listing the wines he had available for tasting, which included "one for the true believers."  Hagen was obviously enjoying his time pouring for the public.  At one point when he was hidden by the throng of people surging towards him I heard him remark, to no one in particular, "I learned everything I know about table tasting at La Super Rica!  Talk to everybody!"  And that he did.  Hagen is a good follow on Twitter, by the way.  When not referencing Santa Barbara's most popular taqueria, he sometimes waxes poetic.  The man has a gift for haiku.

In all, I tasted 47 wines at Pinot Days.  By the end of my session my palate had gone into a Pinot Daze, so I had to call it quits.  I did manage to taste from all the wineries I had set out to taste from, and a few I hadn't.  Here are some that captured my attention:

C. Donatiello Maddie's Vineyard - a minty note I liked a lot

Carr Vineyards & Winery Three Vineyards Pinot and Turner Vineyard Pinot - both show excellent minerals and a flowery component, the latter a bit more delicate

Demetria Estate - '07 has a lively nose and a bit of tartness on the palate; '06 has lots of depth

Derby Wine Estates - nice nose, earthy palate

Dutton-Goldfield Winery - '07 McDougall Vineyard has peppery notes; '07 Sanchietti Vineyard was one of my favorites

Fess Parker's '08 Santa Barbara County - a great nose and a dark quality; '07 Bien Nacido really fills the mouth well; '07 Pommard Clone was no slouch

Ketcham Estate '07 Ketcham Vineyard - a wonderfully expressive Pinot

La Fenetre - two great wines and an amusing good cop/good cop show from Josh Klapper and Adam Leeman

MacMurray Ranch Sonoma Coast - a very full mouthfeel and a smooth drinker

McIntyre Vineyards '07 Estate - violets and a more rustic feel than '06 Estate, which I found very appealing

"They Got This Recession On" Wines, Part 7

I'm a relative novice in the area of wines from South Africa.  But I like Chenin Blanc, and I've heard a lot of good things about South African Chenin Blanc, so I had my eyes open for a good opportunity.  Along comes a South African Chenin Blanc that costs under ten dollars.  How could I say no?  Let's bust this recession South Africa style.

Man Vintners Chenin Blanc 2009

Man Vintners is located in Paarl, in coastal South Africa northwest of Cape Town.  This is traditionally a white wine area, although reds are gaining in popularity there.  This steen - South African for "Chenin Blanc" - is produced in stainless steel, and it has crisp and clean flavors to show for it.  The wine is 13.5% abv and cost only $7 where I bought it, probably at a bit of a discount.  The nose shows a tropical and canteloupe profile that is quite pleasant, while on the palate are lime and orange peel.  It's a crisp, rather full mouthfeel.  The acidity seems a little lacking, making me think of it as a summertime porch wine.  It probably goes nicely with salads and light seafood, but I would like it on that warm afternoon out on the deck.

Varietal:  100% Chenin Blanc 

Appelation:  South Africa > Paarl
Vintage:  2009
Alcohol Level:  13.5% abv
Price:  $7
Acquisition disclaimer:  Purchased by the author

Wine Pairings With Santa Maria Barbecue

California's Santa Maria Valley is home to what has been called, by some, the best barbecue in the world.  The Valley's Visitor Information site has produced a booklet featuring all you need to know about the Santa Maria Valley barbecue scene.

In addition to showcasing the rich history of Santa Maria Style Barbecue, the 14-page booklet features a list of restaurants and caterers specializing in the regional culinary tradition.  The booklet also contains recipes for Santa Maria Style Pinquito Beans and Santa Maria Style Barbecue Salsa, as well as pairing suggestions from 12 local wineries.

You can send off for it and wait for the mailman to bring it, or you can download the PDF file and get that immediate gratification for which the internet age is famous.

If you'd just like to see which Central Coast wines are recommended to pair with SMV BBQ, here is that excerpt directly from the brochure.

ADDAMO VINEYARDS - 2005 Syrah or 2005 Pinot Noir

RIVERBENCH VINEYARD AND WINERY - Estate Pinot Noir or Mesa Pinot Noir

BIEN NACIDO VINEYARDS - 2007 Bien Nacido Vineyards Syrah or 2007 Bien Nacido Vineyards Pinot Noir (coming in Spring of 2010)

BYRON WINERY - 2006 Tepusquet Syrah or Clone 667 Pinot Noir

CAMBRIA VINEYARD - 2006 Tepusquet Syrah or 2007 Julia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir

COSTA DE ORO - 2008 Costa de Oro Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County or 2008 Costa de Oro Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County

COTTONWOOD CANYON WINERY - 2005 Bistro Syrah or 2002 Syroir (Syrah/Pinot Noir blend)

FOXEN VINEYARD - 2006 Syrah Williamson-Dore Vineyard or 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Vogelzang Vineyard

LUCAS AND LEWELLEN VINEYARDS - 2005 Lucas and Lewellen Merlot or 2004 Lucas and Lewellen Valley View Cabernet Sauvignon

TRES HERMANAS WINERY - Rosé of Syrah 2006 or Rosé of Syrah 2007

KENNETH VOLK VINEYARDS - 2006 Syrah, Nielson Vineyard or 2007 Negrette

RANCHO SISQUOC WINERY - 2007 Sisquoc Barbecue Red or 2008 Sylvaner

Wines For Rockers: Red Zeppelin

I ran across another rock'n'roll winery for your rocking and drinking pleasure. Red Zeppelin Winery is located in Cayucos, CA, just up Highway One from Morro Bay. It's an interesting part of California, and the Red Zeppelin wines are made of grapes taken from several nice areas near there. The fruit comes from Paso Robles, Monterey County and San Luis Obispo County.

Unlike other wines with rock'n'roll labels, Red Zeppelin seems to be a wine first and a marketing ploy second. I make this statement without the benefit of an actual tasting.  With what seems to be a good track record by the winemaker, a raft of awards and the fact that they've been doing it for a while now - since 1991 - I feel justified in biting on the hype.

One corner of Red Zeppelin's website describes a rather bizarre link between the dirigible on the label and Randall Grahm's Le Cigare Volant. It's worth reading. There, you'll also find that Red Zeppelin wines have won several awards and been praised by no less than the San Francisco Chronicle and Rachel Ray.

Their flagship wine is the Black Zeppelin 2005. This is a Paso Robles Syrah with a healthy dose of Alicante Bouschet and Cabernet Sauvignon blended with it. The Red Zeppelin Syrah 2005 hails from Bear Valley Vineyard in Monterey County. 99% Syrah, with 1% "white varietal." The Red Zeppelin Vinidiction is a non-vintage blend from Monterey and San Luis Obispo Counties, with 55% Cab and 45% Syrah. Red Zeppelin also makes a line called White Zeppelin, featuring a Riesling, a Chardonnay and a Viognier.

These wines are a little hard to find. Other than the winery's website, only a handful of retailers carry the line. There does not appear to be a tasting room associated with the winery, and tours are not given.  On January 11th, 2009, Wine Woot was offering a three pack of reds - one of each - for just under $50.

Winemaker Stillman Brown seems to be a fun-loving winemaker, indeed. Click on Swillyidle to find out what else he's been up to.

Henkell Trocken Piccolo Dry-Sec Sparkling Wine NV

A leftover from the holidays, this German sparkler delivered a 187 ml serving that was serviceable, if not a really special wine.  The label is German, but the grapes came across the border.  Henkell Trocken is made up of French Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Blanc de Noir from French Pinot Noir and Chenin from Saumur.

The wine is 11.5% abv and pours up as a golden yellow in the glass.  The effervescence was rather slight, but the nose was very yeasty, offering lots of promise.  The palate came across very smooth, almost creamy, in fact.  There just didn't seem to to be a lot going on here.  That's a shame, since I generally find most sparkling wine a bit too bubbly and often quite sweet, especially in the lower price range.  Henkell Trocken is pleasant enough drink, it just didn't move the "wow meter" too much.

Varietal:  Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chenin Blanc 

Vintage:  NV 

Alcohol Level:  11.5% abv 

Price:  $3 

Acquisition disclaimer:  Purchased by author

"Been Doon So Long: A Randall Grahm Vinthology" (review)

When a person takes his  passionate interests very seriously, he runs the risk of becoming a geek.  Ask anyone who has seen all the Star Trek movies more than once.  Ask anyone who has built a computer from scratch, for fun.  Ask Randall Grahm.

He takes wine as he takes his other passions - very seriously, but in a not-so-serious sort of way.  That which he holds dear he treats with a razor-sharp wit.  The results are smartly funny and comically smart.

Literature is obviously something very close to his soul, yet he can throw down parodies of great works like a morning-show deejay throws down parodies of Michael Jackson songs.  He's the Weird Al Yankovic of the Dewey Decimal System.  His love and knowledge of wine is beyond question, yet he named his flagship wine after a French flying-saucer-in-the-vineyard story.  And a very serious wine it is.

Now Grahm has written a book in which he lets his geek flag fly.  Been Doon So Long starts with a pun utilizing his winery's name and continues with unabated geekness throughout.

Grahm's writing is rich and complex with layer upon layer peeling away to reveal nuances guaranteed to make the wine geek in you come out and party.

The founder of Bonny Doon Vineyard fills each page with his extensive oenological knowledge and expansive literary and historical references.  This is quite entertaining to a reader with some background knowledge about wine in general and Grahm specifically.  Anyone attempting to pierce this tome without at least a cursory exposure to his wry and sometimes tangled wit is treading ground which may prove to be too hard for tilling.

Grahm has written this book for those "in the know," and it will take either a vast bank of knowledge or constant Wikipedia usage to keep up with him.  Most of the humor - besides being unrelentingly oblique - is rooted nearly completely in wine lore.  In his Ten Ways You Know You’ve Met a Real Wine Geek, my favorite is number nine: "He has intimated that he would like to 'date' Jancis."  If you aren't aware that Jancis Robinson is a world-renowned wine authority the joke is clearly lost, and that is probably the most accessible item on the ten-item list which contains 16 footnotes.

That said, the market for this book is most likely people who like Bonny Doon and Randall Grahm.  It may not be for everyone, but Grahm certainly knows his audience.

One chapter details the evolution of the labels of the Bonny Doon family, from the rather plain-looking early ones for the Bonny Doon Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, through "Old Telegram," "Le Cigare Volant," "Clos de Gilroy and "Ca del Solo" to "Cardinal Zin" and the beautifully understated label for "Ca del Solo Albarino."

A great portion of Been Doon So Long consists of parodies of great art.  Many of his literary parodies were created as promotional support for his wines.  In newsletters that were eagerly awaited by his fans, he hawked his wares in the various voices of Thomas Pynchon, Franz Kafka and James Joyce.  He even utilizes the hedonistic descriptive style of one Robert Parker.  My favorite is Don Quijones, the Man for Garnacha, or A Confederacy of Doonces.  A companion chapter has Grahm delving into the world of verse, taking poetic license with everything from The Inferno to Howl. Having these parodies collected in one volume is no doubt the best Christmas gift many of his fans received.

Writing about some of his recurring themes Grahm cites, "the banality of Chardonnay, the pretentiousness of Napa Valley, the banal pretentiousness of Napa Valley Chardonnay...lead to a heartfelt cry for tolerance of diverse wine styles and the oddball grape varieties."  As a wine drinker who is relentlessly drawn to to wines made from grapes little known to me, I relate well to his footnoted feelings of ABC, "Anything But Cabernet (or Chardonnay.)"  Nowadays, there are plenty of California winemakers dabbling in the Rhone varieties; any one of them might be referred to as a Rhone Ranger.  Grahm, in the mid 1980s, was, more or less, THE Rhone Ranger.  Just as the California wine pioneers before him did, Grahm's Bonny Doon helped pave the way for other dreamers who kicked clods of dirt in between their rows of Roussanne.

From a literary standpoint, Grahm seems pathologically obsessed with notation, footnotes appearing in his writing almost as frequently as adjectives.  This allows him to cram in triple the information that the normal structure of a sentence would allow.  I don't remember seeing it, but I'm sure somewhere within the pages there is a footnote within a footnote.  His full commitment to the obscure reference at least partially explains his dependence upon footnotes.

If that sounds a tad negative, please note - or footnote, if you will - that I really enjoy interesting reading, even when there is a dangerously long tangential offshoot waiting around every preposition.  Grahm's writing is indeed interesting.  I also admire a good obscure reference from time to time, as long as it is fully explained in the footnotes.

Anyone who has ever enjoyed a Bonny Doon wine could find something to like about Been Doon So Long.  Grahm relates wine to the worlds of song, story, stage and screen in a most entertaining fashion.  In a way, this book exhibits Grahm's roots and influences in the same way wine exhibits the roots and influences of the grapes.  It's his terroir on display here.  If you are in on the jokes, the book will have you convulsing in laughter.  If you are on the outside of his references looking in, better pay close attention to those footnotes.

"They Got This Recession On" Wines, Part 6

Hopefully 2010 will bring us all much better financial positions.  That's where my heart is, but my head tells me not to start buying really expensive wines for the cellar just yet.  In fact, if it's getting darker just before your dawn, here's a pair of wines you could probably afford after just a few hours of hustling change.

Sutter Home Winery has a line of wines available at 7-11 stores - in the cooler - which are small but cheap.  The 187 ml pours come in plastic bottles with a screw cap.  They cost just under two bucks each with tax and CRV included.  If you have trouble with the metric system, 187 ml comes out to about 1/4 of a standard wine bottle.  That's either a generous restaurant pour or a stingy one at the Fuller household.

Sutter Home is a Napa Valley producer whose labels you must have seen at the supermarket.  They are one of those wineries which still produce a White Zinfandel.  This small-format line also includes a Chardonnay, a Pinot Grigio, a Merlot and a Cabernet.  We'll concern ourselves with the White Zin and the Merlot.

Sutter Home White Zinfandel 2008

This much-maligned wine offers a pinkish orange color, like a light salmon.  It looks rather nice in the glass.  There is raspberry and strawberry on the nose, which isn't too sweet smelling.  The palate does show some friendliness, but the cloying sweetness White Zin is infamous for is not present.  In fact, I would describe it as off-dry.  The 9.5% abv made me expect a much sweeter wine, but the grapes were harvested fairly early, sparing us from a sugar bomb.

The nose is probably more interesting than the palate, but not by much.  The wine's acidity is a tiny bit challenged, but it actually goes fairly well with a turkey sandwich.

I hesitate to offer up any categorical slams on White Zin.  If it weren't for its great popularity during the 1980s, many old Zinfandel vines in California might have been uprooted in favor of some more profitable grape.  As a big fan of  "old-vine Zinfandel, " I am personally glad so many people drank White Zin a few decades ago.  I hoist a glass of it from time to time as a salute to those who knew not what cause they served.

Sutter Home's White Zinfandel is a very uncomplicated wine.  It's not a bad wine, it's just not a very interesting one.  It'll do in a recession, though.

Sutter Home Winery Merlot 2008

I'll go ahead and tell you now, I was not expecting a whole lot from this wine.  I got a lot more than my two dollar's worth from it, though.

The Merlot pours up a fairly dark ruby color in the glass.  Perfumy scents of blackberry, blueberry and some cherry cola are not shy about leaping from the glass.  The taste shows a really smokey black cherry quality.  It's quite smooth, even immediately upon opening the bottle.  The wine does have an interesting flavor profile and really feels full in the mouth. It's actually quite satisfying.  I'd be surprised to see someone identify this correctly in a blind tasting.

The tannins are good and the finish is dry and lingering.  If I had only $2 to my name and absolutely had to have a nice glass of wine, Sutter Home Merlot would do just fine.  In fact, I just may keep it on the "buy" list once this recession is over!

Wine Events for Early 2010

UCLA Extension: Vintage I
Tuesdays 6:30-930pm, starting January 12
UCLA Extension Building
10995 Le Conte Avenue #G33W
Los Angeles, CA 90024-1333
310.206.5075
Vintage I is a 12 week course covering the complete spectrum of enology, from what makes a good vineyard site to an in-depth look at the classic grape varieties to a study of winemaking philosophies. This course lays the necessary groundwork for enrolling in Vintage II and Vintage III. Prerequisite: X 485 Introduction to Wine. Enrollment limited.
$750 for the course
*****
Pinot Days of Southern California
Jan 17 1:00-5:00 p.m.
Barker Hanger
3021 Airport Ave. Suite 203
Santa Monica, CA 90405
415.246.2967
Pinot Days spans four days - January 14-17 - and includes a couple of winemaker dinners and a small handful of in-store tasting sessions.  The event culminates with Sunday's Grand Tasting, in which more than 130 producers will pour 400 or so domestic Pinots.  You can talk to the winemakers while tasting the 2007 vintage so many have praised.  Food items which pair well with Pinot Noir will also be served.
$50
*****
Go Green Expo Los Angeles
Jan 22-24 10:00 a.m.-6:00 p.m.
Los Angeles Convention Center
1201 South Figueroa Street
Los Angeles, CA 90015
212.655.4505
They have an organic food and wine pavilion.
$10
*****
International Wine Festival
Jan 23 5:00-8:00 p.m.
Renaissance Hollywood Hotel
1755 North Highland Avenue
Hollywood, CA 90028
310.902.6955
Sip and sample the wide world of wine.  International wines will be supplied by dozens of distributors.  Wines from Italy, Germany, Brazil, South Africa, Spain, Australia, Israel, France, and New Zealand are scheduled to appear in this United Nations of the vineyard. The Renaissance Hotel will also provide an assortment of cheeses and breads.
$60
*****
Pasadena PinotFest, 2nd Annual
Jan 24-30
Noir Food & Wine
40 North Mentor Avenue
Pasadena, CA 91106
Jan 24 7:00 p.m. – Brian Loring Winemaker Dinner - $129
Jan 29 5:00 p.m. - Wes Hagen, Clos Pepe Tasting - $20
Jan 30 3:00 p.m. - Public Grand Tasting - $75 advance, $89 at door.
Attendance is limited to 350.
Each night during PinotFest Noir Food & Wine will feature flights of the Pinots from some of the participating wineries. $20-$30
All three events available for $200

*****

Valley of the World Wine and Food Festival, 12th Annual
Jan 30 6:00-9:00 p.m.
National Steinbeck Center
One Main Street
Salinas, CA  93901
831.775.4728
Celebrating the wine and food of Monterey County will take all week - there are other events priced separately - but this Grand Tasting will culminate the experience.
$75, $140 per couple
*****

Loyola Marymount University Wine Classic
Jan 31  2:00-5:00 p.m.
Loyola Marymount University
1 LMU Drive
Los Angeles, CA 90045
310.338.5278
More than 150 California boutiuque wineries will be featured.  A silent auction of specialty wines and products will be featured.  Proceeds benefit LMU student scholarships.
$90, $80 if purchased by January 15

*****

Stars of Santa Barbara, 7th Annual
Wednesday, February 3
7:00-9:30 p.m.
The Peninsula Hotel, Beverly Hills
9882 S. Santa Monica Blvd
Beverly Hills, Ca 90212
310.451.7600

Attendance is limited to 125.

Cost: $120.  Limited number of discount tickets are available at Goldstar for $69 while they last.
The wine education group Learn About Wine will stage this event spotlighting 116 wines from the Santa Barbara area.  Participating wineries are set to include such luminaries as Ampelos, Carr, Dierberg, La Fenetre, Lucas & Lewellen, Riverbench, Sanford, Tantara and Zaca Mesa.
*****
Top 100 Cabs of the Napa Valley
Feb 13 3:00-6:00 p.m.
Bayleaf Restaurant
2025 Monticello Road
Napa, CA 94558
818.224.8603
A judged blind tasting of the Top 100 Cabs of the Napa Valley is the highlight, but you'll enjoy tasting the top Cabs in the land that's known for them.  Hors d'ouevres will be served.  Judges will taste and score over 400 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon wines several days prior to the event.  They will be ranked from 1 to 100 for your tasting pleasure.
Attendance is limited to 300.
$95, $135 at door

*****

Madera Wine Trail Wine & Chocolate Weekend
Feb 13 - 14, 10:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.
Participating wineries
Madera, CA
Purchase a passport glass at any winery along the Madera Wine Trail, and enjoy some sweets for Valentine's weekend.
$20 advance, $25 day of event
*****

On a smaller scale - but just as enjoyable - my friends at Pourtal in Santa Monica, The Wine House in West L.A., Wally's in Westwood, Rosso Wine Shop and 55 Degree Wine in Glendale, K&L Wines in Hollywood, Off The Vine in San Pedro and All Corked Up in Santa Clarita all sponsor regular tastings and special events.  Check the website of your favorite wine hang and pay them a visit in the new year!  Local Wine Events is a great place to check for wine events coming up, no matter where you live.  Always remember to drink responsibly.  That includes tastings, too.  If you don't have a designated driver, that's why they have spit buckets.

Doppio Passo Primitivo Salento 2007

All too often, I think of Italian red wines as lightweight party favors.  Tasty, maybe even interesting, but ultimately with not enough guts to handle anything tougher than a slice of lasagna.  I know, I know, that's a completely unjustified attitude.  But it's just a knee-jerk reaction.  I regularly buy Italian reds because I know how delicious they can be.  And I know that some of them have the stuff to fit in even on tables that aren't covered by red and white checkered cloths.

Doppio Passo Primitivo is such a wine.  This Primitivo is very dark – one can barely see through it when it's held up to the light.  The nose of black cherry or cherry cola also shows a lot of the earth.  The mouthfeel is medium-full and the palate is alive with a very rich and earthy taste – currants and cherries mostly.  It strikes me as the dark side of Zinfandel.  Not too surprising since Zinfandel and Primitivo grapes are international cousins of a sort.  The best part is there's no need for decanting.  This wine is as smooth as silk right out of the bottle!

Doppio Passo Primitivo Salento 2007 

Varietal:  100% Primitivo
Appelation:  Italy > Puglia > Salento

Vintage:  2007 

Alcohol Level:  13.5%
Price:  $18
Acquisition disclaimer:  I bought this wine.

Ravenswood Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel 2006

I'm one guy who loves grocery shopping with my wife.  Denise calls out the specific need of the moment, I quickly proceed to the proper aisle and pick it up, returning to her and the basket in what I'm sure is a blinding flash of light.  There, I find her still weighing the advantages of the various bread products, spices or pasta.  When we get to the produce department - where she judges me underskilled - she cuts me loose and tells me she'll find me in the wine department when she's done.  Oh, joy!  Time to shop for something really interesting.

Denise always goes grocery shopping fully armed with a fistful of manufacturer coupons.  Once, she gave me one of those precious slips of paper.  It was for two dollars off a Ravenswood product. 

After apologizing profusely to the old lady I nearly knocked down as I spun on my heels and left the produce area, I went to see which of the Ravenswood wines would come home with us.

One of the things I really like about Ravenswood - and there is a lot to like - is that they make so many different wines, it seems there is always something new on the shelf from them.  My choice was the Lodi Old Vine Zin, 2006, which listed at $14.  I got it on sale and with the coupon the price came down to $8.

The wine is very dark both in color and taste.  That's to be expected with a healthy part of the makeup consisting of Petite Sirah.  There's a little bit of Carignane thrown in, too, which makes me wonder if this is a field blend.  I've seen some references to the grapes of lesser percentage being "blended in."  That would indicate a "no" to the field blend question, but that would be somewhat unusual for old California vines.

The nose bears raspberries and plums, and the richness of the bouquet indicates the year and a half this wine spent in French oak.  Dark fruit takes center stage on the palate, with a certain spicy note waiting in the wings.  The palate is jammy with blackberries and plums, big, dark plums the way they taste when you get a little of the skin with the fruit.

 At 14.5% abv, the wine does have a bit of kick to it, and the tannins are quite healthy, too.  It settles down nicely after a bit of time, though.  In a rare state of being out nearly every night of a recent workweek, this bottle was opened on a Monday and finished on a Saturday.  A full five days stoppered really allowed it to calm down to a point of being soft and intense.  The mouthfeel is quite full-bodied, there's nice acidity and a good show of tannins.  I detected a bit of anise and some cocoa notes in the finish.

Ravenswood Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel 2006

Varietal:  78% Zinfandel, 21% Petite Sirah, 1% Carignane

Appellation:  California > Lodi

Vintage:  2006

Alcohol Level:  14.5%

Price:  $14 (after sale price and coupon, $8)

Acquisition disclaimer:  Bought it myself

Vidigal Douro Vinho Tinto 2005

The Christmas season of 2009 was full of hustling and bustling and running about, as most Christmas seasons are.  Denise and I took a break after visiting the Glendale Galleria - which is the perfect time for a break - and stopped to check out a wine store I had not been to before.  At 55 Degree Wine I was met with such a wide assortment of possibilities I felt a bit daunted.  After much evaluation, I managed to pick up a few bottles to take home.  This wine, Vidigal Douro, was one of them.

I felt I had been lax in exploring Portuguese wines of late, and the grapes involved - 60% Touriga Nacional, 30% Touriga Franca, 10% Tinta Amarela - seemed very interesting.  I was familiar with Touriga Nacional.  It's the main grape variety used in making Porto.  The Douro region is where Porto comes from, and you can taste the flavor of port in this wine.  It plays remarkably well without the sweetness of Port.  The wine's earthiness really dominates the flavor profile, so don't expect a fruit bomb with this one, at least not in the California style.  

It's a medium-bodied wine with a dark, inky color you cannot see through.  A ruby red tinge around the edge looks quite lovely.  On the nose, expect black cherry with leathery, cedar notes.  The palate shows the wine to be dry with a distinct lack of sweetness.  It strikes me as a rather prunish taste, but I certainly don't mean that to be off-putting.  The acidity is good and some backend heat dies down after 45 minutes of breathing. 

Vidigal's website lists the Douro as “not currently available in the U.S.”  Obviously, that's not quite true, and I am glad it's not.  We paired this wine with our incredible rib roast for Christmas Eve dinner, and it was a stunning hit.  It seems made for beef.

Vidigal Douro Vinho Tinto 2005

Varietal:  60% Touriga Nacional, 30% Touriga Franca, 10% Tinta Amarela
Appelation:  Portugal > Douro
Vintage:  2005
Alcohol Level:  14%
Price:  $14
Acquisition disclaimer:  I bought this wine.

55 Degree Wine

I love shopping at a wine store that's new to me.  Tiny boutiques,  huge warehouses, corner liquor stores, grocery store wine aisles - it doesn't matter to me.  I love the discovery of finding what sort of wine delights the owner of the establishment.  Often, that's exactly what you'll find on the shelves.

I recently purchased a Groupon to be redeemed at 55 Degree Wine in Atwater Village.  I had intended to drop into the place for some time, but hadn't found the opportunity.  Having what amounted to a two-for-one deal to redeem, and a Christmas shopping trip to the Glendale Galleria, gave me the impetus to do my shopping here.

55 Degree Wine occupies a portion of a nondescript strip mall set back off Glendale Boulevard, just east of the Golden State Freeway.  Inside, the store is narrow and long with the shelves running from the door to the cashier's table.  It's so full of wine there's barely space enough to turn around.

Founder Andy Hasroun sat at the cashier's table and had a conversation with me while I shopped.  He peeked out from under his pork pie hat to talk to me and other customers who happened in to the store.  He seemed very young for a pork pie hat, but everyone who wears a pork pie hat these days seems too young for it.

"We have 90, 95% Italian wines in here," Andy explained.  "Some Portuguese, some from Spain, a little from all parts of the world.  Mostly Italian, though."  His accounting is probably accurate, as I performed a slightly more than cursory examination to find amid the rows of Italians only half a row or so of Portuguese and Spanish wines, a handful of Germans, a few Champagnes and two California wines.  "Nearly all the wines in the store come from very small producers - less than a thousand cases per year.  That can be a good thing, or a bad thing."  "How's that?" I asked, taking the bait perfectly with my Jack Webb impersonation.  "The good thing is that all the wines are of the quality you can expect only from a small producer.  The bad thing is, when you come back to get more of a wine you loved, it may not be here."

That would be unfortunate, but I'm guessing you'd be able to find something else you like without too much trouble.

Even though it was too early for the tasting in the cellar, Andy insisted I go downstairs and have a look.  It's cold down there - I'd say about 55 degrees - and dark, too.  That's all the better for storing the wine.  Several tables and a small bar awaited the evening's wine lovers, with an array of bottles and glasses at the ready.  It looks like a very comfortable place to have a tasting.  You might be well advised to bring a sweater or jacket if you plan to stay awhile.  Staying awhile seems to be a distinct possibility.

The tastings are held nightly except Mondays, beginning at 6:00 p.m.  (5:00 on weekends) and run until 10:00 p.m. (11:00 on Saturdays.)  The wine and cheese menus change weekly, and there are special wine flights each night.  The room is also available for private events.

The prices at 55 Degree Wine didn't seem too bad.  There aren't too many $10-and-under bottles, but quite a few between $10 and $20.  There are plenty of wines in the $100 neighborhood, too.  I didn't run across too many labels I recognized, but Italian wine is not my strong suit.  There's plenty of choice in grape varieties and all of Italy's wine regions seemed to be represented.  My visit resulted in three choices which I took home.  From Portugal I chose the Vidigal Vinho Tinto 2005  Douro made from Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Amarela.  My Italian selection was the Doppio Passo  Primitivo  2007  Salento, and from Lake County I took the Line 39 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon.  I had this wine recently with a different design on the label, and I liked it quite a lot.

Andy's store isn't exactly geographically convenient for me, but I'm sure I will visit again sooner rather than later.  It's a wine store that makes it worth going a bit out of your way.

Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne NV Brut

Denise and I opened a small bottle of Feuillatte "1/4" I had picked up recently.  I've seen it in various stores this season, usually near the checkout stand as a point-of-purchase item.  The bottle is only 187ml, so I suppose they are marketing them as stocking stuffers.  Neither of us drink a lot of sparkling wine, so the size was great for us to just sample it.  It pours out to about a flute and a half.  I've seen it listed at $10, but I got it for $4 at a sale.  As you can see in the image, there is also a rose version.

 We wanted to pair the Feuillatte with some cheeses we had picked up at the Beverly Hills Cheese Shop and Andrew's Cheese Shop in Santa Monica.  It was a chilly night, the Christmas tree was fully lit and decorated and White Christmas was on TV.  A perfect night for some Champagne and cheese.

Feuillatte is the number-one selling brand of Champagne in France and number-three worldwide.  They are now being distributed in the U.S. by Washington's Ste. Michelle Wine Estates.  To say Feuillatte is a large producer is an understatement.  From the press release: "With the support of its 5,000 wine growers, the Centre Vinicole-Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte benefits from an extensive and rich supply of quality grapes, representing 7% of the Champagne wines produced."  

The grapes used in this bottling are 20% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 40% Pinot Meunier.  There is an extremely yeasty nose, almost barnyard-like in funkiness.  The mouthfeel is full and creamy with plenty of small bubbles which persist for a long time after pouring.  There's a lemon zest component and the flavor of almonds.  The wine gives me the feeling of ginger ale.

The Feuillatte went very well with the creamy Minuet cheese by Andante Dairy.  The dairy recommends a Chenin Blanc from Vouvray or a Gruner Veltliner, but this Champagne was quite serviceable with it.  It fit even better with Truffle Tremor cheese by Cypress Grove Chevre out of Arcata, CA.  The real discovery of the night was finding that the Truffle Tremor went great - scratch that - fantastic with Liqueur de Chataigne, or chestnut liqueur. 

Tasting Room Notes: Sort This Out Cellars

Sort This Out Cellars is a wine producer based in the Santa Ynez Valley of California's Central Coast. They obtain grapes from all over the Golden State, however, and put forth a lineup of wines that are actually produced at the nearby Terravant Wine Company.

With an annual production of 1500 cases, Sort This Out Cellars is definitely boutique. And with so much competition on the wine horizon, the vintner lives by an inventive marketing plan that almost puts the actual wine - which is pretty good - in a backseat.

When you visit the website, or certainly when you step into the tasting room, it's Vegas, Baby in a more or less relentless fashion. From the labels on the bottles to the graphics and ad copy to the music playing over the sound system - Sort This Out offers up a full line of Rat Pack-era Vegas kitsch.

The wines have names like "Viva Las Vegas," "Ante Up" and "Suited." The "Suited" labels are fashioned after "gentlemen's playing cards" of the '40s and '50s, but look to me more like those lusciously-drawn Vargas-style beauties from Playboy magazine. In the tasting room, the concept is helped along by a soundtrack of Big Bad Voodoo Daddy interspersed with enough Sammy, Frank and Dean to make you think you need to roll some dice now.

The "Suited" line also features a special Holiday Merlot 2006. It's 100% Merlot and the card promises black cherry and strawberry flavors with earthy, spicy notes. They recommend their mulled wine mixture to use with it, if you like that sort of thing. It's a visually engaging label with a 1960s-Playboy-cartoon-style snow bunny gracing it.

Here are my thoughts from the tasting:

There were seven wines on the "Tasting Card," and an eighth was thrown in at a customer's request.

"Viva Las Vegas Pinot Grigio 2006 ($15) - Tart and nutty, with lemon peel and pineapple. Very crisp.

"Suited" Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($17) - Grassy nose with a very tropical taste. Notes of mango, pineapple.

"Suited" Sangiovese Rosato 2007 ($15) - 100% Sanjo. Stainless steel. Lovely cherry and strawberry notes. Dry.

"Suited" Merlot 2006 ($20) - 100% Merlot. Earth and smoke. Easy to drink. Comes in Holiday label, too.

"Ante Up" Rollers Reserve Syrah 2005 ($24) - 100% Syrah from Santa Barbara County. Bit of barnyard on the nose. Quite earthy. Finishes well.

VinoNostra "This Wine of Ours" Red Wine 2006 ($36) - The blend is a secret. Only 100 cases made. Smooth with coffee notes.

Film Noir Pinot Noir 2007 ($50) - 100 cases. Cherry and vanilla on the nose with an intriguing flavor of coconut and toasted vanilla.

All in all, if you need a gift for a wine drinker who can't get to Vegas enough, you can't go wrong at Sort This Out Cellars. But don't be too quick to pigeonhole them as simple novelty. The wines are good, and worth checking out on their own merit.

Sort This Out Cellars had their tasting room in Buellton since 2008,which is where I visited them.  They have since moved to a brand new location, in Solvang.

Disclaimer: My tasting experience was provided at no charge for the purpose of review.

Ancient Peaks Holiday Open House

Take a break from the holiday rush at Ancient Peaks Winery for an evening of mostly old-fashioned fun.  The fun happens Thursday December 17, 2009 from 5:00 to 7:00 p.m. at the winery's tasting room in Santa Margarita.  You can take a hayride through the streets of the small town north of San Luis Obispo, enjoy some live music, snack on cookies and appetizers and take the chill off with hot apple cider.  You will undoubtedly want to do a little wine tasting, too.  The featured wines will include the new release 2007 vintages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel and Syrah.

This event is complimentary, although guests are encouraged to bring a $5 donation or the equivalent in canned food goods to benefit the Food Bank of San Luis Obispo County.

The live music will be provided by guitarist Mike Maguire, who will play acoustic classic rock, and local artist Bill Mulder will display his original landscapes.

Ancient Peaks Winery tasting room is located at 22720 El Camino in Santa Margarita.  You can find more information by visiting the Ancient Peaks Winery website or by calling 805.365.7045.

"They Got This Recession On" Wines, Part 5

Santa Rita Carmenere Reserva 2007 is a dark place to go.  Fortunately. I'm not afraid of the dark.  In fact, I kind of like it when the lights are out.  That's what happens when you hold a glass of this Carmenere up to the light - darkness ensues.  It's an inky purple color which literally lets no light pass through.  The aromas are just as dark: blackberries that have been tromped down into a muddy trail come to mind.  There's also a spiciness, possibly anise and maybe some nutmeg.  It's an intriguing nose.  The taste follows suit.  It's dark and brooding on the palate, certainly not a fruitfest.  I would imagine this to be a wine that is not to everyone's liking.  But if you have a fondness for the dark side of the vineyard, this may be just for you.  For only $8, it really has a lot to offer.

 

Winemaker:  Andres Ilabaca
Varietal:  Carmenere
Appelation:  Chile > Valle Central > Rapel Valley
Vintage:  2007
Alcohol Level:  14.1%
Price:  $8 (on sale)
Acquisition disclaimer:  I bought this wine at BevMo.

"Firestone Discoveries" Targets Millennials

Los Olivos winery Firestone Vineyard has launched a new wine brand designed to appeal to Millennials, or the generation which began appearing roughly in the 1980s.  The Santa Barbara County producer has hooked into the net-savvy qualities of Millennials in a multi-pronged effort to get next to a rapidly growing segment of wine drinkers through their new brand, Firestone Discoveries.

Using the tag line "Ignite The Senses," Firestone's campaign seeks to associate their wine with a lifestyle that's exciting to wine drinkers who have recently come of age.  Tie-ins with Twitter, YouTube and Facebook will appear along the way as the winery reaches out to Millenial wine drinkers specifically and enthusiatically.  One aspect of the marketing plan - "Culinary Treks" - will actively involve consumers in exotic hiking and travel promotions to take place throughout the year.  These events are designed to spotlight how Firestone Discoveries fit with different cultural foods and experiences.

The wines themselves are described as "bright, fresh and fruit-forward" and sound as youthful as the demographic slice at which they are aimed.  Available in fine wine retail shops and restaurants nationwide, the Firestone Discoveries Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot sell for a suggested retail price of $9.99.

"They Got This Recession On" Wines, Part 4

Fess Parker Frontier Red Lot 91 is the latest in a series of non-vintage wines from Fess Parker's respected Santa Barbara County winery.  Their website lists the wine at $12, but it sells at some places for $10, and I got a bottle from Los Angeles Wine Company for $8.

The wine is a blend of six Rhone varietals, and it really drinks like an actual Rhone Valley wine rather than a California facsimile.  The nose features blackberry and spices in a very dark setting.  An herbal quality seems to come through a layer of smoke.  On the palate, Frontier Red has a dark edge as well, with plenty of smoky fruit and a licorice component adding to the dark flavors.  I picked up a bit of graphite, too.  Frontier Red drank better each of the three nights it was open.

It's got a medium-mouthfeel, which is rather surprising considering the grapes involved.  I thought of it at first as "thin," but later I felt that might be a bit harsh, since the taste is so good.  I do prefer a bigger feel on my palate, though.  I would recommend giving it some time to settle down, either sitting in the glass or by decanting.

My wife used some of it in a spaghetti sauce she made, and the result was fabulous.  Naturally, the wine paired extremely well with that sauce.

Winemaker:  Fess Parker
Varietal:  56% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 13% Carignane, 5% Sangiovese, 5% Cinsault & 1% Mourvedre 
Appelation:  California > Santa Barbara County
Vineyard:  Camp Four Vineyard (Santa Ynez Valley); Starlane Vineyard (Santa Barbara County); Rodney's Vineyard (Santa Ynez Valley)
Vintage:  NV
Alcohol Level:  15.5%
Price:  $8 (list $12)
Acquisition disclaimer:  I paid for this wine, on sale.

Line 39 Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

Line 39 Cabernet was recommended to me by a friend of mine who shares my somewhat obsessive passion for wine.  Nicolas wrote me an email after running into me at a wine store.  Yes, we run into each other at wine stores - in Los Angeles.  "One of the wines I picked up was really very nice.  You should pick up a bottle!"  So the wife and I piled into the car the next day and went back over to the West Side.  "Oh, yeah, we had a few cases of that, but we ran out.  We should get more in a few days."  Well, it must be good if they ran out of it.  In a few days I got a text from Nicolas.  "Line 39 is in!"  Back to the West Side we went, and this time I was not denied.  Fortunately, Nicolas was right.  It is a good wine. 


Location, location, location.  Line 39 refers to the latitude on which the winery is located.  Is that a good latitude for wine?  Well, Washington D.C. and Pyongyang North Korea are listed just either side of latitude 39, so I'd say based on that information, the jury is still out.  However, Line 39 happens to run right through Lake County, California.  That's just north of a place called Napa Valley, so maybe it's not such a bad location after all.


The wine is very smooth if you give it a half hour or so to open itself.  I pick up aromas like raspberries and cigar box.  On the palate, I get blackberry, strawberry and a bit of a cranberry edge.  There is some smoke and earth coming forth, too.  It's a deep ruby color, almost opaque.  I always imagine that means a bit more complexity is lurking in there.  I don't know if that's true, but it's a nice thought.

Winemaker:  Cecchetti Wine Company
Varietal:  Cabernet Sauvignon
Appelation:  California > Lake County
Vintage:  2006
Alcohol Level:  14.5%
Price:  $10
Acquisition disclaimer:  I bought this wine myself.

Tasting Event: Pourtal - Cradle of Wine

Santa Monica's 7-month-old wine hang, Pourtal, kicked off their December program with a pouring party Tuesday night.  Featured were the distributors of all the wines to be spotlighted during the month of December.  The wines are part of the "Cradle of Wine" series, in which Pourtal will take an in-depth look at - and taste of - wines from the Republic of Georgia, Israel, Lebanon, Bosnia and Croatia.  Representatives of the distributors who bring these wines to the U.S. will pour and talk about them, as they did Tuesday night.

The event to kick off the series found the room in party mode, with a friendly and boisterous crowd filling the area.  In addition to the "Cradle of Wine" tastes, also available were the samples from the Enomatic wine system, which delved into other areas.  Since they are available all the time, I decided to stick with the wines being poured by the distributors.

The Republic of Georgia was represented by Greg Alonzo of Terrell Wines.  He boasted that Georgia is the birthplace of wine, since the region's winemaking is traced back around 8,000 years.  Alonzo told me "Georgia has around 500 grape varieties, but only 38 are grown for commercial viticulture."  My favorite of the four Georgian wines Alonzo poured was the Mildiani Saperavi.  Saperavi is the most important red wine grape grown in the republic, and produces a hearty and distinctive wine that would probably appeal to most American wine lovers.  I thought there was a strong resemblance to Zinfandel in this wine.  The Teliani Valley Khvanchkara was also a hit with me.  Made from Alexandria & Mudzhuretuli grapes, this semi-sweet red had a beautiful bouquet and was all about raspberries.  I had the semi-sweet white as well.  The Teliani Valley Tvishi is made from Tsolikauri grapes and is floral on the nose with a refreshing minerality to edge the moderate sweetness.

Israel's wine industry was represented by Rob Fogarty of Yarden Wines.  Fogarty poured a very nice 2008 Golan Heights Moscato that held some nice effervescence along with the sweetness.  It was quite refreshing, and could work well before or after dinner.  There were also two from Israeli Wines Direct which I did not get the chance to sample.

A wine from Bosnia and one from the Dalmation Coast of Croatia were poured by Michael Morales of the Blue Danube Wine Company.  The 2007 Citluk "Herceg" was the Bosnian entry.  Made from Zilavka, Bena and Krkosija grapes, this white wine was light and a little bit sweet on the finish.  The 2007 Bibich Riserva is made from grapes - Babich, Plavina and Lasin - which are related to Zinfandel.  That doesn't surprise, since Zinfandel's roots come from Croatia.  The dark fruit and peppery highlights seemed right at home in California.

I have saved the most unusual for last.  Going into this event, I expected to find many different and unusual tastes.  This was largely not the case, as many of the wines I sampled seemed designed for an American palate.  The Lebanese wines offered a healthy dose of that "different" I was expecting.  The three wines from Chateau Musar were highlighted by stories of winemaker Serge Hochar growing Cabernet on a hillside just outside Beirut; skipping vintages due to war raging right around the property; and having difficulty getting enough labor to work the land and harvest the grapes because of the danger.  With all that stood in the way, it's no wonder the wines produced here were a labor of love.

The Cuvee White is made of Obaideh and Merwah grapes, which would translate loosely to Chardonnay and Semillon.  It has a musty funkiness that rivals any Sauvignon Blanc I've tasted, but without the acidic edge.  The Cuvee Rouge is made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Carignane, always in equal measure.  The Hochar Pere et Fils is the winemaker's response to a request from the distributor for something "a little more sellable."  These wines are very distinctive, to a fault, perhaps.  They are not for everyone's palate, but if you're looking for a wine adventure, they certainly qualify.

All in all, Pourtal got the month - and the "Cradle of Wine" series - off to a rousing start.  December is jam-packed with events - there are at least six in a ten-day span - so check their calendar to plan your favorites.  The people behind Pourtal are as friendly as they can be.  If the music is too loud when you are there, ask them to adjust it.  No doubt they will be happy to oblige.  

Stephen Abronson, the proprietor has put together a good room and wine director Rachel Bryan has made some good choices in the wine dispensers.  Small plates are served, with a great cheese selection from Andrew's Cheese Shop and hand-crafted flatbreads from Full Of Life.  Their Autumn Salad was delicious.  There's a small outdoor patio in front with some heaters, in case your party would like to people-watch along the boulevard.