Friday, March 22, 2013

A Pair Of Bonny Doon Wines: Le Cigare Blanc


Le Cigare Blanc is the white version of Bonny Doon Vineyard’s masterful homage to Châteuaneuf-du-Pape, Le Cigare Volant.  For the uninitiated, that red wine is named to honor a decree issued in a village in that famous wine region which banned flying saucers from ever landing there and ruining the vineyards.  The region has never encountered the need for enforcement of that decree.  The light-hearted aspect of the name sits at the crux of Bonny Doon winemaker/owner Randall Grahm's sense of humor, a sensibility that permeates his writing and his labels.  As "president-for-life" of Bonny Doon, it is his wit that marks the wines and the marketing effort behind them.

Le Cigare Blanc Beeswax Vineyard 2011

This blend of 62% Grenache Blanc and 38% Roussanne is Grahm’s tip of the hat to the white blends of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  He e explains on the label, “Resistance is futile,” and he is correct.

The grapes come from the Beeswax Vineyard in the Arroyo Seco AVA of Monterey County and are
biodynamically farmed.  2011 was a particularly cool vintage, so the wine offers great flavor at a modest alcohol level of 12.5% abv.  1,650 cases were produced and they all are contained under what Grahm knows as a Stelvin closure.  You may know it as a screwcap.

The wine underwent a complete malolactic fermentation, so the mouthfeel is full and rich.  Aging took place in French oak barrels, and the suggested retail price is $28.

Le Cigare Blanc has a golden tint and a nose of apricots and cantaloupes, with a nutty little backbeat.  A quince flavor leads the way on the palate, with a savory quality - an almost salty quality - that intrigues me greatly.  Despite the intensity of the fruit here, it is the salinity that stays with me as a reminder.  The acidity is razor sharp and ready for whatever food you'd like to have with a white wine.  This wine's complexity is - to me, anyway - literally dazzling.  As much as I admire Grahm's red wines, Le Cigare Blanc may well be my favorite of the Bonny Doon line.

Le Cigare Blanc Réserve 2010

The Réserve version of Le Cigare Blanc is labeled as en bonbonne, meaning the wine is aged in a carboy - a big glass jug.  Grahm feels this type of aging allows the wine to retain its freshness over a number of years.

The 2010 vintage is the second for this version of the wine.  The fruit again comes from Beeswax Vineyard, while the mix is 56% Grenache Blanc and 44% Roussanne.  Easy on the alcohol again, too, with 12.4% abv.  Bonny Doon produced only 498 cases, and the screwcap closure is used, as in all of Grahm's bottlings.  He says you can tuck this one away until 2020 without a worry.  According to Grahm, it tastes younger every time he samples it.  The unfiltered wine may appear partly cloudy in your glass - it did in mine.  It is sold only to DEWN club members at a retail price of $50.

It is highly interesting how two wines of such a similar nature can be so different.  Clearly, the aging process tells the story of these fraternal twins.  The Réserve - aged in glass - shows a very different bouquet than its wood-aged counterpart.  Strong floral scents  mingle with orange peel and a bit of almond on the nose, while the palate is youthful and breezy, with plenty of citrus.  The two wines do share certain qualities, though.  The bracing acidity and the savory taste are here, with that lovely salinity lasting long into the finish.


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Friday, March 15, 2013

Bonny Doon Wine With The Grapes Of Italy And Spain


Winemaking is a tough enough profession, but a winemaker who can make world-class puns at the drop of a hat while doing the Sunday New York Times crossword and microblogging on Twitter is a man to be admired.

Besides the Rhône-varietal wines Randall Grahm is known for, he also likes to dabble in some other grape nationalities, too.  He has done some interesting things with Riesling, and the two wines featured here show his work with Spanish and Italian grape varieties grown in the Bonny Doon Ca’ del Solo estate vineyard.  They were provided to me for review.


Bonny Doon Nebbiolo 2009

Grahm’s love affair with the grape of Barolo has either come to an end or reached a hiatus, as far as growing it is concerned.  The ‘09 vintage of Bonny Doon Nebbiolo is the last from the biodynamic Ca’ del Solo Vineyard in Monterey - at least for a while.

Grahm thinks Nebbiolo is “one of the true genius grape varieties."  He says, "there is a remarkable soulfulness to the best examples of the variety, and this particular one, I submit, stands among the very best.”

In previous vintages, Grahm's Nebbiolo grapes were partially air-dried to concentrate ripeness. He says the finale year for the vineyard provided a warmer growing season, so air-drying was not employed.  All the grapes used here are estate-grown Nebbiolo.  Alcohol kicks in at 14.4% abv, and only 508 cases were made, for Bonny Doon’s DEWN wine club members.  Sealed under a screwcap, it goes for $45.

The wine has a medium-dark tint in the glass and smells quite brightly of red plums and blueberries.  The fairly noticeable whiff of a fresh pack of Kools - my dad’s brand when I was growing up - provides an interesting angle to the bouquet.  On the palate, a youthful fruit expression is up front when first poured.  Then, over the course of an evening, its mood turns darker and a bit more savory.  With so much going on, it’s a great wine to contemplate.  It’s also a great wine to accompany a meal.  The tannins are firm enough for your grandma’s meatballs, but not at all harsh.


Bonny Doon Sparkling Albariño, Central Coast 2010

This 100% Albariño sparkler uses grapes from Jespersen Vineyard (84%) and Ca’ del Solo (16%.)  It comes under a crown cap closure, requiring a churchkey like a beer or soda might.  You should remove the cap very slowly, since the contents are under pressure and the bubbles like to free themselves quickly when they have the chance.  Alcohol content is quite low - 12.5% abv - and only 617 cases were produced.  It’s also available only to Bonny Doon’s wine club members.

Those bubbles - when they are freed - are quite large on top of the pale golden liquid.  The nose smells a bit of toast, but more of fruit.  A zesty lemon-lime component frames the aroma of peaches quite nicely.  The refreshing acidity is a delight, and flavors of citrus linger on the finish.  Grahm suggests you try this with Korean barbecue, and that’s a great idea.  It should also make a nice pairing with any number of other dishes, or sipped on its own as a toasting vehicle.  $32


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Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Grenache And Syrah From Bonny Doon


Randall Grahm is credited with being the original Rhone Ranger, a pioneer in making wine from the grapes of the Rhone Valley, as expressed through California terroir.  His affinity for Grenache is a credit to his sensibilities, and a gift to those of us who love the variety.  His various efforts in the field of Syrah are, arguably, unmatched in California.

I don’t quote from press releases often, but in this case I will.

“Asked about this first vintage, Grahm commented, 'It was a different day in California, Rhône varieties weren’t exactly easy to come by and no one really knew what they were all about.'  He joked, 'Could Grenache actually produce a red wine?  Syrah was grown in someplace called “Côte-Rôtie.  That had to be blazing hot.' 

Grahm is set to receive the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Rhone Rangers on March 22, 2013.  No one in California is more deserving of that honor.

These samples were provided by Bonny Doon for review.

Bonny Doon Clos de Gilroy 2011

The fruit used for this wine does not come from Gilroy- the California town known as garlic capital of the world - and that results in my favorite of Grahm’s many puns: “Clos, but no Cigare.”   It’s an homage to that tiny town that one can smell from the freeway.

The fruit - 83% Grenache, 7% Cinsault, 6% Syrah and 4% Mourvèdre - actually comes from nine Central Coast vineyards, largely the estate vineyard in Soledad and the Alta Loma Vineyard in Greenfield.  The fruit is destemmed and cold soaked to improve color and flavor.  Grahm calls it a cool climate Grenache with bright fruit and a hint of black pepper.

The nose is certainly bright enough, with cherry galore and a hint of tart raspberry.  The savory aspect - a hallmark of Grahm's wines - comes in the form of an almost smoky mineral shading.  On the palate, the cherry flavors are draped a little more heavily in that funky earthiness.  A minty aspect also appears in mid palate and remains on the finish.  I’m an easy touch for Bonny Doon wines anyway, but I particularly like the way this one drinks.

The winemaker notes - in Grahm's own humorous way - advise pairing with “grilled meat or vegetables, roasted poultry or the aioli platter (naturellement).”  It’s also a big hit with garlic naan from my nearby Indian restaurant.  The wine carries a 13.3% abv number, and 767 cases were produced - for wine club members.  It is bottled under a screwcap - get over it.  $18


Bonny Doon Syrah Bien Nacido X-Block, Santa Maria Valley 2009

This big, bold, 100% Syrah comes from Bien Nacido Vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley, possibly the best source for grapes in the huge Central Coast AVA.  Grahm believes the Syrah clone planted in Bien Nacido’s X-Block is identical to the strain from France’s Côte Rôtie region.  The cool climate of that part of the Santa Maria Valley  allows full aromatic expression of that clone.
Even for a cool climate site, this is a cool vintage.

If Clos de Gilroy offers bright colors, this Syrah turns and runs from that.  It's dark.  Dark in color, dark on the nose - savory meat notes rival the trod-upon blackberry - and dark on the palate, with the standard Bonny Doon savory streak taken to an extreme.  There is a rather refreshing acidity, and a hint of green - possibly a result of some whole cluster inclusion in this wine.

Grahm says if you pair this wine with roasted lamb, you won’t be sorry.  Please decant, or at least let the glass sit for half an hour or so for full enjoyment.  Under the screwcap is a 13.3% abv wine, of which 843 cases were produced.  It was made for DEWN wine club members.  $42


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Friday, March 8, 2013

Clos La Chance Wines


The life of a wine writer looks pretty good - from a distance.  It's nice that I get to attend many fine wine tasting events, and nicer still that most of the wines I taste are pretty good.  It is tough, though, to make value judgments on wines at these events when I  have all of thirty seconds or so to see, swirl, sniff, sip and spit while trying to jot down something that sounds different than what I jotted down at the last table.

Clos LaChance is one of those wines I have experienced only at tasting events under those less-than-desirable circumstances - until I received samples of their wines from a publicist.  While he didn't introduce me to the Clos LaChance wines, he did give me an opportunity to write about the winery at greater length than I have in the past.

Bill and Brenda Murphy own and operate the 150-acre San Martin estate, which is sustainably certified by the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance.  The production facility is sustainable, as well.  The Murphys take seriously the honor of being "stewards of the land," but they also see their efforts producing a legacy for generations of Murphys to come.

Head winemaker Stephen Tebb and his staff have done a wonderful job, and I'm happy I had the chance to taste the wines from Clos LaChance.

What's in a name?  LaChance is Brenda Murphy's maiden name.  And the hummingbird on the label?  The winery is located at 1 Hummingbird Lane.


Clos LaChance Cabernet Sauvignon Central Coast 2009

This wine provides an interesting blend from the Central Coast: 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Malbec, 2% Merlot.  Nearly all the grapes are from the Clos La Chance estate vineyards - five percent come from CK Vines, an arm of Clos LaChance.

This is a Cabernet with a - pardon my rudeness - a big old' honker on it.  This nose overwhelms the sniffer with fruit aromas that are not a bit shy.  Ripe blackberry, plums and black cherry would be a treat by themselves.  Here, they get lots of help from the spice rack.  Clove, cinnamon, sage and nutmeg converge in a heady cedar box of smells.  It's a party for the olfactory sense, probably abetted by the Malbec.  The extra-spicy profile could also be due in part to the use of American oak in the aging program.  20 percent of the oak used is American, and five percent of it is new.  Of the French oak, 30 percent of it is new.  The wine spends 16 months aging in oak barrels.

In the mouth, blackberry and black cherry cola lead the way, while clove and a just a hint of orange peel linger on the finish.  The firm tannins provide ample framework for meat, but are not too stiff - the wine is a very pleasant solo quaff.  Alcohol is a manageable 13.5% abv and suggested retail is $15.

Clos La Chance Estate Zinfandel Central Coast 2010

This Zin is a fairly dark purple in the glass and has a rustic, brambly side showing on the nose.  Aromas of cherry and raspberry come forth with hints of sage and eucalyptus following.  The flavor profile leans heavily on fruit like blackberry and raspberry, plus a jazzy little kick of clove and elderberry.

The wine’s alcohol content is 14.5% abv, but it drinks smoother than that.  Look for this one to be a hit by the barbecue grill with steaks, sausages or pork chops.  The suggested retail price of this Zinfandel is $15.

Clos La Chance Chardonnay Monterey County 2011

An unoaked Chardonnay, this one really lets the grapes do the talking.  The nose is alive with tropical aromas - pineapple and a hint of banana.  The fruit steals the show on the palate, too.  Gentle grapefruit flavors join the pineapple with a burst of lemon to boot.  The finish is long, and it’s the grapefruit flavor that hangs around the longest.

The wine’s acidity is quite refreshing and the 13.5% abv number is moderate and mild.  Food pairing is a natural.  I think it will complement shellfish wonderfully.  At a retail price of $11, this Chardonnay is a great bargain, too.


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Wednesday, March 6, 2013

Dr. Beckermann Liebfraumilch 2011


This Liefraumilch is a German white wine made from Riesling, Müller-Thurgau, Silvaner and Kerner grapes.  The designation Qualitätswein means it is a quality wine.  It’s very low in alcohol - only 9.5% abv - and it is usually found on the cheap.  This wine was selling at Trader Joe for only four bucks.

Pale gold in color, the wine’s nose smells of sweet flowers - honeysuckle - with pears, apricots, peaches following.  The palate is sweet as well, a full mouthfeel, flavors of the aforementioned fruit with a mineral undercurrent.  It has a very nice acidity, especially when the sweetness is taken into account.

It’s not a wine that’s going to knock anyone off their feet, but it should prove a very pleasant companion out by the pool.  It should even match up nicely with a salad or a shrimp cocktail.


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Monday, March 4, 2013

Greek Wines From Santorini



Santorini is a Greek island of incredible beauty and rich history.  Located in the Aegean Sea, about 120 miles southeast of the Greek mainland, it is the largest island in an archipelago.  Santorini’s winemaking history is said to date back to 3,500 B.C. although a cataclysmic event interrupted that history.

An incredible volcanic eruption around 1600 B.C. is responsible for the island’s terroir, not to mention the black sand beaches.  It took over 200 years for life to begin again on Santorini after the cataclysmic event.


The volcanic soil - known as aspa - has almost no organic matter, but it’s loaded with minerals, which shapes the island’s wine.  The lack of clay in the soil makes the vines immune from Phylloxera, so the vines of Santorini are likely the world’s oldest ungrafted vines.

The vines (above) grow in the volcanic soil and are trained in the shape of baskets, to protect them from the wind.  They don’t get a lot of rain, but the rain that does fall is taken in by the porous, rocky soil and held until it’s needed in summer.  Abundant fog also helps out, and the salty spray of the ocean delivers its own special salinity to the grapes.  Cooling winds from the north cover the island in summer, helping the grapes to retain their naturally high acidity.

There are only about half the number of vines on Santorini than there were in the 1960s, due to the  the difficulty of growing them and the popularity of the island as a tourist destination - the land is more valuable when developed.  The younger residents seem to be losing interest in grape growing and winemaking.  Every 75 years or so, the yield of the vines becomes so low that they are cut off at the root to allow new vines to grow.  It takes several years for a new vine to develop.

The wines of Santorini are mainly dry, white wines which have a trademark minerality and a crisp citrus element.  If you are the least bit interested in white wine, you owe it to yourself to try the wines of the island.  Vinsanto - a sweet wine tinted red - is also made there.

I had the opportunity to taste several wines produced on Santorini, provided for review by Wines from Santorini.

Artemis Karamolegos Nykteri 2010 

The Karamolegos Winery was founded in 1952 by Artemis Karamolegos.  He got the passion for winemaking from his grandfather.  Although a new and modern winery was built in 2004 to employ modern winemaking technology, the traditional ways are still their guiding light.

Labeled as Santorini Dry White Wine, the alcohol content is 13.5% abv.  This wine is a blend of 90% Assyrtiko and 10% Aidani.  the estate vineyards grow at an altitude of 150 meters, in the island’s volcanic soil.  The wine is fermented in oak barrels, and is aged on the lees in barrels for two months.  The retail price is $19.

The wine has a golden yellow tint in the glass - it looks rich and beautiful - and there is a lovely savory note on the nose.  Aromas of apricot and wet stones lead to flavors that are also mineral-based, with the taste of apricots just getting through a curtain of salinity.  Citrus on the finish, along with a very nice level of acidity, makes this a great wine to pair with food.  It's great with pepperoni pizza and really livens up a plain old tuna salad most excellently.

Sigalas Assyrtiko 2011

Paris Sigalas started making wine at his family’s home.  His winery is now a modern facility in the same village.  Sigalas was a mathematician, but grapes overtook numbers in his life.  It all adds up, though, because Sigalas is known for his wonderful efforts with the Assyrtiko grape.  He has devoted his life to preserving the winemaking traditions of the island he calls home, and protecting the viticultural practices used there.

His Assyrtiko wine carries an alcohol number of 13.5% abv, and is a blend of 75% Assyrtiko and 25% Athiri grapes, both indigenous varieties on Santorini.  The aromatics of the Athiri are complementary to the mineral driven profile of Assyrtiko.  The grapes are grown in the vineyards of northern Santorini, in the black lava soil.  The wine is fermented in stainless steel to allow the full expression of these amazing grapes to come forward.

In the glass, this wine has a yellow tint, but not quite as golden as the previous selection.  The nose is simply amazing, with the expected minerals, peaches and apricots joined by aromas of salty ocean spray - the salinity is gettin' real, up in here.  On the palate, the salinity stays strong, and a citrus zing makes for a tingly mouthful.


Santowines Vinsanto 2004

In the realm of Santorini’s long winemaking tradition, SantoWines is a relative newcomer - founded in 1947.  Visitors to the tasting room are treated to unmatched views of the Santorini caldera formed by the collapse of land in the destructive volcanic explosion.

Santowines’ Vinsanto is made from 85% Assyrtiko and 15% Aidani grapes.  The fruit is dried in the sun for eight to ten days, then fermented for two or three months before the aging process - the wine spends 36 months in oak barrels.  The alcohol content is only 10.9%, and the oak effect is quite pronounced.

This marvelous dessert wine has a color somewhere between brick red and whiskey brown.  Its nose boasts raisins, molasses and brown sugar.  That sun-dried, raisiny quality comes across on the palate, too, along with a crisp acidity and a bit of lemon zest on the finish.  The mouthfeel is oily and rich.  It is a recommended pairing with a traditional Greek dessert like baklava, but it also fits beautifully with cheese cake, a creamy cheese or even just a handful of nuts.


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Friday, March 1, 2013

Cabernet Franc Saves The Night


We hadn't been to Vitello's Restaurant in a while, so Denise and I were taken aback by the new look at what was once a tried-and-true, old-style Italian-American eatery in the San Fernando Valley.  The restaurant was sold quite a while back, and the owners apparently took their time about making changes.

The changes they made to the old Rat-Packy restaurant really brought it into this century.  Gone are the red leatherette banquettes.  Gone are the old straw basket Chianti bottles.  Also gone, unfortunately, are the old recipes.

The very modern-looking redesign is nice enough.  Muted green fabric has replaced the red leatherette, the tablecloths are gone, swanky music is piped in through the sound system and there's a tree in the middle of the main room decorated with tiny white Christmas lights.  I suppose, since they are now used year-round nearly everywhere there is a tree in Los Angeles, that they are called "decor lights" or something like it.

The trouble is, some of us are clinging to the few remaining old-line, East Coast-style Italian restaurants with a death grip.  They are disappearing, these old haunts, and it's hard to see them slip away one by one.  If the ghosts of Sinatra, Martin, Davis and Bishop should materialize in Los Angeles, they will now have one less place to "try the veal."

I don't know whether or not the recipes at Vitello's were a part of the deal when the place sold, but even if the previous owners took the cookbook with them it should have been easy to find a new one.

Miso dressing on the chopped salad tastes OK, but it should be Italian.  The garlic bread doesn't look like garlic bread.  It's dark toast, with a lot of stuff on it besides butter and garlic.  Garlic bread isn't broken.  No need to fix it.  The chicken cacciatore, I don't even want to think about any more.  I don't know what kind of sauce was on it, but it wasn't tomato.  It seems as if the food is prepared by people who don't know what Italian-American food tastes like.  It's on par with the kind of cuisine one gets at an airport.

The food wasn't the end of the trouble, either.  Between the salad and the entree, our server was instructed to kick us off our two-top so it could be placed with a four-top to accommodate a larger party.  I don't mind moving, but I don't recall a restaurant ever asking me to do so.  Our server - who apparently knew a lot more about the restaurant business than the owners - was obviously mortified.  She offered us several different extras, on the house, which we politely declined.  She did take 20% off the check for our trouble, however.

Even so, we didn't feel that our dining dollars were very well spent.

With all that, at least the wine was good.  Vitello's wine list seems to be the one thing that changed for the better.  There are quite a few interesting choices by the glass, and a good number of bottles from which to choose.  It's a bit unusual to find a Cabernet Franc by the glass on a Los Angeles restaurant list, so I was happy to find it there.  Of course, their customers who liked the old cheap Chianti and cheap Pinot Grigio may not be too happy about it.

Napa Valley producer Cosentino is responsible for the Cab Franc that saved the evening for me, although it's not a Napa wine.

Cosentino's 2011 Cabernet Franc carries the Lodi appellation and a 14.3% alcohol number.  The grapes are 76% Cabernet Franc, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Merlot.  The wine spends 20 months in oak - French and Hungarian - a quarter of which are new barrels.

The familiar Cab Franc spices and herbs grace the nose, while a beautiful green edge touches the blueberry and cherry flavors. There's a surprisingly light touch of vanilla and clove.  The wood is used to really great effect in this wine.

Hopefully, Vitello's can breathe some life into the food service the way they have done with the wine.  Until then, for me, it's a stop which will be reserved for happy hour only.


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Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Wine Country: Iowa - Schade Creek Vineyard (And Winery?)

Schade Creek Vineyard has appeared in the Now And Zin Wine Country series before, as have some of their recent troubles with the Waukee, Iowa city government.  The status of the winery is up in the air as of this writing, which led to the question mark in the headline.

Kurt and Jana Schade (pronounced Shady) have been battling the city council for their very survival as a business since the city embarked on a crusade to keep their winery and tasting room closed.  This article, from Waukee Patch in 2012 also highlights some of the struggles Schade Creek Winery has had with the city.

Although the Schades didn’t hold out much hope for a victory against City Hall when I spoke with them recently, I have my fingers sincerely crossed that they can get back to the work into which they have poured their life savings - the work of making people happy by way of their wines. 

In the middle of their struggle, the Schades were kind enough to supply me with some of their wines so I could revisit a few of them and taste some of their other offerings.  Schade Creek’s wines are not labeled with a vintage, but it appears these releases are new, and some are different from the previous vintage.  Their wines sell for about $12 per bottle.

Winemaker’s Reserve
The Schades' 2012 Marechal Foch is Iowa's version of Pinot Noir.  The Foch grape is a cold-hardy orb which ripens early.  That makes it a near-perfect grape to grow in Iowa.  Medium dark ruby in the glass, the wine lets enough light through to suggest a delicate sip.  The bouquet is a beautiful Pinot-like mix of flowers, cranberry, raspberry and coffee.  In the mouth, it's lively and fresh, with an invigorating acidity and great tannic structure.  The cranberry and blackberry flavors are draped in a gentle earthiness that makes it feel like a wine of the nighttime.  The Schades tell me the intensity of flavor from those small berries "is likely due to the drought we experienced last summer.”

Ghetto Fab
This rosé, called a blush in the Midwest, is made from 100% Steuben grapes.  The skins remain in contact with the pressed juice long enough to impart a medium-garnet color.  It looks a lot like a Spanish rosado, or a White Zinfandel.  The nose bears the Iowa earth, with vibrant strawberry and watermelon aromas peeking through.  On the palate, it's the same story - fruit nestled in minerality.  A citrus play arrives late and stays on the finish.  The racy acidity is razor sharp, which means you can pair this wine with a lot more than just a salad.

Soul Mates
This is a half-and-half blend of Golden Muscat and Steuben grapes.  There’s honeyed apricot on the nose, and an earthy aroma permeating it.  It’s full and a bit sweet in the mouth, and the acidity is brilliant.  The flavor profile runs from tropical fruit to peaches and back again, with a lovely Sweet Tart finish.  The Schades recommend pairing with pork and big, bold cheeses.  It also pairs nicely with avocado   They say it’s a great choice for people who love Pinot Grigio, and I think that hits the nail right on the head.

Vineyard Sunrise
Made entirely from the Schades' Vignoles grapes, the nose offers a fresh display of flowers and herbal notes, with an underlying sweetness of apricots.  On the palate, the semi-sweet wine carries lovely flavors of peaches and a terrific level of acidity.  The winemaker notes suggest a pairing with beef or lamb.  I don't know that I would go that far, but it would the perfect wine to pair with garlic shrimp or big cheeses.

Friends
Another 100% Vignoles effort, the white wine with the friendly name is crisp and semi-sweet, with a nose of earthy apricots and peaches and a tart, tangy palate.  The Schades recommend it for those who like Sauvignon Blanc.  They also say it goes nicely with salads and shrimp. 

Wine O’Clock Somewhere
This lighthearted wine is 100% Edelweiss. The Schades say the past year’s Edelweiss turned out a bit sweeter than usual.  This wine has an earthy/sweet nose, with honeyed fruit highlights.  The palate shows a great level of acidity, which makes the wine very refreshing and food-friendly.  The full mouthfeel and fruit-driven palate make this an excellent wine for sipping, or for pairing with salads or other light fare.




Monday, February 25, 2013

A Trio Of Italian-Style Wines From Castello Di Amorosa


I've written written before about the wines of Castello di Amorosa - the Calistoga castle that's a replica of a real Tuscan castle.  If you visit, it's hard to miss.  There aren't a lot of castles in the neighborhood.  This one took 14 years to build. It even has a torture chamber.  Presumably, the wine served there is very different from the wine served in the tasting room.

Castello di Amorosa uses estate fruit for all their wines, some of which are Italian varieties.  They kindly supplied me with samples of three of their wines which tip the fedora to their Italian heritage.

Gioia Rosato di Sangiovese 2011  $24
Pronounced "Joy-uh," this 100% Sangiovese rosé is fruity and fresh and a lively deep pink to boot.  Its nose is fresh and vibrant with cherries and plums.  The palate bursts with strawberries and raspberries, and a streak of earthy minerality.  A dynamite acidity laces it all together.  This wine looks big, but actually comes across as a light-middleweight.  The mouthfeel is crisp and refreshing, so it’s a great choice for salads, sandwiches or sipping on the porch this spring and summer. The alcohol content won't weigh you down - only 13.1% abv.  The wine is aged in stainless steel tanks.

Napa Valley Sangiovese 2009  $30
This varietal offering has medium density and is deep purple in the center of the glass, turning lighter at the edge.  The nose is enormous, laden with black cherry and blackberry with floral notes for good measure.  It's a bombastic bouquet, and it's fitting on such a heavyweight wine.  Frankly, it drinks more like a young Napa Cab - big alcohol, big tannins and fruit a lot darker than I expect in a Sangiovese.  The 14.5% alcohol content shows vividly upon opening, but after a night uncorked, it settles down quite a bit.  There's a lot of influence from the 18 months of ageing in French oak barrels which this wine receives.

La Castellana 2008  $68
A Super Tuscan-style blend, this one is made from 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot and 16% Sangiovese - all estate fruit.  The nose bears a lot of heat after opening, which burns off in a couple of hours.  The 14.6% abv remains noticeable, though.  The wood leaves its mark here, too - 20 months in French oak.  Intense aromas of blackberry dominate the smells, with a bit of tar and eucalyptus creeping through.  Huge fruit blasts through on the palate, too.  The tannins are firm and the acidity is mouth-watering.  On the third night after opening, the tar was so deep and rich I might have mistaken it for a Syrah.  The winemaker notes suggest a pairing with wild boar, which sounds great to me.

Winemakers Brooks Painter and Peter Velleno have produced some commendable wine.  Hear Castello di Amorosa’s consulting winemaker Sebastiano Rosa talk about the origins of Super Tuscan blends, and his history with wine, on the Castello di Amorosa SoundCloud site.

Castello di Amorosa wines are sold only at the castle or through their website.


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Friday, February 22, 2013

Garagiste Festival: Southern Exposure Wine Event


It was a perfect mid-February, Southern California Saturday for a trip out of Los Angeles.  We enjoyed sunny, warm weather as we headed north on the 101 Freeway toward Santa Barbara wine country.  We didn’t have to do much work - our car knows the way very well.  We were bound for the Garagiste Festival: Southern Exposure, amidst the windmills and wine bars of Solvang.

The Garagiste Festival began in Paso Robles, an effort to spotlight some of the many small-production winemakers in that region.  The festival’s name comes from the French word that describes small, maverick wine producers operating in garages instead of chateaux.  Most of the producers who pour at the Garagiste events have no “winery” - they buy grapes directly from choice vineyards and turn them into wine in unheralded, low-overhead locations.

Stewart McLennan and Doug Minnick are co-founders of the Garagiste Festival, Lisa Dinsmore is the Event Director and Melanie Webber handles the public relations.  Billing their new festival as “the first and only event dedicated to celebrating and promoting the artisan winemakers of the Santa Ynez Valley,” the team has set their sights on further expansion.  They envision Garagiste events held all year long in various parts of California.  I can’t wait to hear where the next new entry will be.  They should all be as well-received as the first two.

The winemakers and wine tasters aren’t the only ones to benefit from the California Garagistes.  In January, Cal Poly’s wine and viticulture program got a check for $10,000 from the Garagiste Festival’s Paso Robles event, and the Southern Exposure version promises more to help pave the way for future winemakers.

The Artisans and Their Wines

A-Non-Ah-Mus
Winemaker Ron Hill’s (right) 2009 Babcock Vineyard Pinot Noir ($44) shows black tea and cola notes, while his 2009 Grenache ($30) and 2009 Syrah ($35), both from Alisos Vineyard, are dark, funky and loaded with acidity.  His new Syrah rosé (barrel sample) has a nose exploding with candy and flowers.  It’s due for release in March or April.

Altman Winery
Winemaker Andres Ibarra crafted a 2008 Chardonnay ($16) with gorgeous, smoky fruit from La Presa Vineyard and acidity to burn.

Autonom
Paul Wilkins makes wine for Alta Maria Vineyards and Native9, but he can’t get enough of it.  Autonom is his solo project, focusing on very limited-release Rhone varieties.  His 2009 “Law of Return” Grenache ($44) sports a 5% splash of Syrah and shows cherry and a hint of funk on the nose.  Nielson Vineyard fruit is lovely.  The 2009 Rhone Cuvée ($32) allows the Laetitia Vineyard Syrah to drive, with 30% Grenache riding shotgun.  Earth and bacon await.

C. Nagy
When Riverbench winemaker Clarissa Nagy (left) has some alone time with winemaker husband Jonathan, they make more wine.  The 2011 Bien Nacido Pinot Blanc ($25) is a pure joy, the 2010 Garey Ranch Pinot Noir ($48) is huge and dark and the 2010 White Hawk Vineyard Syrah ($30) shows some Southern Rhone funk.  Look for the 2012 Viognier in May, with tangy White Hawk fruit.

Center Of Effort
Named for a sailing term describing the most efficient point on a sail, COE gets winemaking direction for its Burgundian wines from Mike Sinor when he’s not busy at Ancient Peaks.  The 2010 Pinot Noir ($40) is extremely aromatic and bold on the palate.

Cordon Wines
Winemaker Etienne Terlinden (also of Summerland) says of his 2011 French Camp Zinfandel ($23), “I do this Italian style, picking the grapes earlier for a higher acidity level.”  It shows spice and vanilla on the nose and a slight bramble on the palate.  His 2010 White Hawk Syrah ($26) gives a lovely herbal scent with very dark blackberry flavor.

La Fenêtre
Winemaker Joshua Klapper (right, pouring in lower left) always seems to have the busiest table at every wine event where I see him.  I took the photo from the stage above him, in case I couldn’t get any closer.  Happily, I did squeeze my way through for a taste of his 2010 Bien Nacido Chardonnay ($39).  Eighteen months in French oak - 20% of which is new - imparts a butterscotch essence to the already smoky fruit.

Luminesce
Soft-spoken winemaker Kevin Law is not exactly a “born promoter,” preferring to let his wines speak for themselves.  A pair of Pinot Noir - 2011 Arroyo Grande ($28) and 2010 Presqu'ile Vineyard ($44) - are impressive for dark aromas and fruit.  Smoky on the former, fruity on the latter.  His 2010 Santa Barbara Syrah ($26) is dark as well, with a beautiful layer of acidity.

Native9
James Ontiveros worked hard to reclaim a portion of the land that came to his family as a Mexican land grant nine generations ago.  It’s mainly a cattle ranch now, but he has his dream of an eight-acre vineyard.  His 2009 Pinot Noir ($64) is very dark and laced with smoke.  The 2010 Pinot ($64) seems better integrated.

Refugio Ranch
Ryan Deovlet makes the wine for the Gleason family, and the 2010 “Tiradora” Sauvignon Blanc ($28) shines with just a hint of grass and great acidity.  The 2009 Barbareno ($42) is two-thirds Syrah, one-third Petite Sirah - extremely aromatic and loaded with blackberry.

Roark Wine Co.
If there’s anything to be said for being different, you can say it about Ryan Roark (left).  He makes Chenin Blanc, Malbec and Cabernet Franc.  Oh, and something called Pinot Noir.  I love the savory edge on his 2012 Chenin Blanc (barrel sample) but his 2011 Malbec ($28) is all perfume and spice - lovely.  Roark told me his 2011 Cabernet Franc ($28) had no sulfur added to it.  When I asked if he was making a “natural wine,” he shot me a look that said he’d rather not open that 750ml bottle of worms.  He left it at, “I didn’t put anything in that wine.”  It is kinda dirty, kinda rustic, kinda spicy and kinda delicious.

Ryan Cochrane Wines
I like a guy who hits you with his clones while pouring the Pinot Noir.  Ryan Chachrane’s 2011 Pinot Noir sports clones 113, 116 and 667 from Fiddlestix Vineyard.  There's mocha on the nose and black tea on the palate.  Cochrane worried that the twelve barrels he made last year wouldn’t be enough even for garagiste status - but it was.

Seagrape Wine Co.
After Karen Steinwachs (right) turned around the wine program at Buttonwood Farms, they let her make a little something for herself.  Her 2011 Zotovich Vineyard Chardonnay ($25) has smoky tropical fruit defining it, while her “Jump Up” Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($32) has an almost bracing acidity.  “That’s the Sta. Rita Hills,” she says.  “Natural acidity.”

Shai Cellars
Shawn Shai Halahmy poured an outstanding 2009 Grenache ($24) which has a big bouquet mixing cherry candy and coffee, with a nice tart edge on the palate.

Storm Wines
The 2011 Santa Ynez Sauvignon Blanc ($22) produced by Ernst Storm is a four-vineyard blend with lovely fruit and a slightly grassy note.  The 2012 Presqu’ile Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (barrel sample) shows a little more green.  Storm’s 2009 Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir ($40) carries the familiar smokiness of that area along with a floral element, while the 2010 John Sebastiano Vineyard Pinot Noir ($50) is fruitier.

Tercero Wines
Every year about this time, Larry Schaffer is eager to share his newest rosé with me.  True to form, the 2012 barrel sample is a funkfest on the nose.  “That’s the McGinley Vineyard Mourvèdre talkin’,” says Schaffer.  Dry and delicious, it will be bottled in March.  The Tercero 2011 White Hawk Vineyard Viognier ($20) is loaded with floral aromatics and the acidity hangs in there despite the lushness of the mouthfeel.  His 2009 Larner Vineyard Syrah (barrel sample) has logged 40 months in oak and has an enormous nose to prove it.  Schaffer saw my reaction and smiled, “Yeah, I’m an aromatics kinda guy.”



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Wednesday, February 20, 2013

Cornerstone Cellars Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 2009


If you're in the market for a really gigantic, huge, enormous Napa Valley red wine, Cornerstone Cellars has it covered.  The Cornerstone Cellars Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 2009 is a wine for people who like 'em big.

Grapes from Ink Grade Vineyard, on the eastern side of Howell Mountain are the main contents here.  These vines have limited root growth, resulting in small grapes with concentrated flavor.  Some Oak Knoll District Cabernet Sauvignon was also used, as well as a 5% splash of Carneros Merlot.

The 2009 growing season in Napa Valley is described in the winemaker notes as “mild, blissfully uneventful.”  Mid-October, however, brought some very heavy rainfall.  That did not upset the fruit for this wine, though.  If anything, it just made it mad.

This wine carries a hafty 14.9% abv number and retails for $80 per bottle.  The winemaker asserts that this Cab should age well for 20 years, according to the notes on the vintage.  If wine ratings mean anything to you, Robert Parker stamped a 91 on it.

The wine is inky black with a nose to match.  The plummy aromas are as dark as the night and just as intense.  The wood effect is simply beautiful - the 22 months the wine spent in French oak left its elegant, smoky mark.  A hint of tar weaves in and out of each whiff.  The palate is dark and supple, with big fruit and lovely spices that go on for days.  The wine has the tannic structure to handle heavy beef and a finish that just won't go away.  The masculine brawn displayed here is impressive, maybe even showy.  Please, please, have this with the biggest, meanest piece of beef you can find.  Cornerstone's Craig Camp tells me there's nothing better for a young Howell Mountain wine.

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Tuesday, February 19, 2013

The Santa Clarita Wine Fest Is Coming

The folks who put on the LA Wine Fest every year will be tuning up once again just a bit to the north.  The Santa Clarita Wine Fest is scheduled to spill the wine at Bridgeport Marketplace on March 2, 2013, from 2:00 to 6:00 p.m.  Bridgeport Marketplace is located at 24045 Newhall Ranch Road in Valencia, CA.  This will be the third annual event for wine lovers in the 661.

The event promises to be enough of a pleasure with all the wine, beer and spirits poured, not to mention the food, cigars and other of life’s little delights.  But a good cause will be served as well - the Michael Hoefflin Foundation for Children’s Cancer will benefit as a direct result of your attendance.

The participants list for the 2013 SCWF is Southern California-heavy, with only a handful of wineries from Paso Robles or Napa Valley.  There’s a particularly strong showing from Ventura County and Malibu, though, so this will be a good chance to sample wines from those areas.  They may be a little hard to find at the wine shop, but they’ll be at this party.

Single adult tickets are $75, and for an extra $15 you can get in an hour early as a VIP.  There are deals for couples as well as designated drivers - just check the website.


The best deal is for Now And Zin readers - go to the website, tickets, then enter the code NOWandZIN to get your ticket for only $45.

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Monday, February 18, 2013

In Pursuit Of Balance Wine Tasting Event

In Pursuit of Balance - IPOB - was held on Wednesday, February 6th at the London Hotel in West Hollywood.  Two morning seminars - one concerning Chardonnay and one focusing on Pinot Noir - and an afternoon media/trade tasting preceded the consumer tasting event that evening.

In Pursuit Of Balance (IPOB) is the creation of sommelier Rajat Parr (Michael Mina and RN74) and Sonoma wine businesswoman Jasmine Hirsch (Hirsch Vineyards) in an effort to get wine “out of the trophy room and back on the dinner table.”

The event accented Pinot Noir and Chardonnay producers who make wines with balance and food compatibility in mind.  Terroir and varietal identity mean a lot to these folks, and they feel no need to push the winemaking envelope to try and lose sight of those concepts.

Here are my highlights from the 28 members of IPOB:


Pinot Noir

Anthill Farms Winery "Campbell Ranch Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, 2011 - Beautiful, tangy fruit from the north end of the AVA.  25% whole cluster.

Arnot-Roberts Peter Martin Ray Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains 2011 - The nose is so savory it's almost salty. Slightly tart raspberry flavor.

Au Bon Climat Clendenen Family Vineyards Le Bon Climat Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley, 2008 - An unbelievably savory nose, great acid and finish.  Slightly smoky.  A fave.  Great wine from Jim Clendenen (right.)

Bluxome Street Winery Balinard Vineyard Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, 2011 - Green Valley appellation.  Very nice savory tart fruit.

Ceritas Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, 2011 - Fresh acidity and a savory, smoky taste.

Chanin Los Alamos Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County, 2011 - Nice floral and tea notes.

Chanin Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley, 2011 - Great smoke and dark fruit. 50% whole cluster fermentation.


LaRue Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, 2009 - Winemaker Katy Wilson (left) comes from an agricultural family.  She got the wine bug in college. A very fragrant wine.


Lioco Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, 2011 - Dark and full, with nice acidity.


Littorai The Haven Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, 2010 - A full mouth, great level of acidity, beautiful fruit.

Native9 Rancho Ontiveros Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley, 2009 - The smokiest ever. Eight clones of Pinot are cofermented by winemaker James Ontiveros (right.) 100% whole cluster fermentation.  Full and dark as night.  A fave

Ojai Vineyards Kick On Ranch Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County, 2010 - A beautiful nose, the palate has a nice tart edge but it’s still fruity. Good acid, full mouth.

Twomey Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley, 2010 - Lovely and dark.

Wind Gap Gap Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, 2011 - 50% whole cluster. Aged in concrete, fresh and lively. Slightly savory notes.



Chardonnay

Arnot-Roberts Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains, 2011 - Nice tropical fruit, lean and fresh.

Au Bon Climat Clendenen Family Vineyards Le Bon Climat Chardonnay, Santa Maria Valley, 2008 - A really nice touch of oak, great acidity. Almost buttery, but not quite.

Bluxome Street Winery Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, 2010 - Beautiful green apple, fresh acidity.

Calera Chardonnay, Mt. Harlan, 2011 - Earthy without losing touch with the fruit.

Chanin Los Alamos Vineyard Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County, 2011 - Just a slight hint of oak and great acidity.

Chanin Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay, Santa Maria Valley, 2011 - Wonderful oak effect and a long fruity finish.

Copain Brousseau Chardonnay, Chalone, 2010 - Smoky nose, creamy mouth.

Failla Haynes Vineyard Chardonnay, Coombsville, 2011 - Lush.  Winemaker Ehren Jordan thought the 1965 vineyard was Zinfandel as he drove past it many times.  It's not.

Hirsch Vineyards Estate Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, 2011 - Delicious apples, lean and gentle acidity.

Lioco Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, 2011 - 2/3 barrel-aged, 1/3 tank.  Explosive fruit on the nose, apples and tropical flavors on the palate.

Mount Eden Estate Bottled Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains, 2007 - A real treat. Smoky fruit, edgy minerality from the shale soil.

Ojai Vineyard Solomon Hills Chardonnay, Santa Maria Valley, 2010 - Winemaker Adam Tolmach (left) brings brilliant fruit and lively acidity.

Peay Estate Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, 2010 - A lean and fresh effort.  Andy Peay poured; Vanessa Wong is the winemaker.

Sandhi Rita's Crown Chardonnay, Sta. Rita Hills, 2011 - A smoky nose and lovely, expressive fruit.  Great use of oak.  A fave.

Soliste l'Age d'Or Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, 2010 - Beautiful. The 16 months in oak is barely noticeable. Very Burgundian.  A fave.

Tyler Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County, 2010 - Slight oak and vibrant acidity.

Wind Gap Yuen Chardonnay, Central Coast, 2009 - Old vines in limestone soil. Fermented in concrete. Smoky, earthy nose.  Westside Paso Robles and Chalone grapes.



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Friday, February 15, 2013

In Pursuit Of Balance In Pinot Noir Wines

Jamie Kutch, Jim Clendenen, Ehren Jordan, Jordan Mackay
This was the second seminar of the In Pursuit Of Balance event in Los Angeles this month - read about the first one here.  This seminar concerned Pinot Noir and the use of whole cluster fermentation in the making of wines from those grapes.  San Francisco wine writer Jordan Mackay moderated this panel.

From the event program,
 "Whole cluster fermentation (leaving the grapes on the stems during fermentation) is a controversial technique when it comes to Pinot Noir. A winemaking process that dates back centuries, the practice fell out of favor with the advent of modern destemmers, as including stems in fermentation has a major impact on the finished product."  
But some California winemakers figured if it is good enough for some of the more elite producers in Burgundy, it's good enough for them.

An essay contained in the program, by Wolfgang Weber, pointed out that
 "the genius of Pinot Noir is found in subtlety and poise, in its graceful and transparent expression of the soils and climate in which it is grown.  Balance in Pinot Noir enables those characteristics to reach their highest expression in a complete wine where no single element dominates the whole."  
In other words, balanced.

The wines sampled in the seminar were not your typical "big California wines."  The ripeness of the fruit - along with the alcohol content - can be held in check by the inclusion of stems in fermentation.

The panel consisted of four winemakers who believe in the potential of balanced Pinot Noir in California.
Ehren Jordan (Failla Wines) explained how whole cluster fermentation is accomplished.  "Pick cluster, bring to winery, throw in the fermenter."  Getting more serious, Jordan said, “Whole cluster fermentation is, for me, a game-time decision.  If the situation at harvest is right, with brown stems, let’s do it!”

Jordan’s Failla Peay Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2006 used 60% whole cluster fermentation, and tastes extremely earthy.  His Failla Whistler Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2011 is smoky and slightly tart.  Jordan believes whole cluster fermentation increases the ageability of a wine.  "Stem inclusion is also massively important in Syrah,” says Jordan. “Much like Pinot, Syrah can be a cool climate grape."

Jamie Kutch (Kutch Wines) concurs with that notion.  He cites some dangers of including stems in fermentation.  "You can end up with an herbaceous, stemmy wine."  The upside, he says, is "Complexity; it keeps the wine from being too sweet.”

"Shallow soil, with small berries, is better for whole cluster fermentation than deep, rich soil where the berries are big," says Kutch.  This type of grapevine has a better chance of having brown stems, which are better for whole cluster.  All the winemakers on the panel say they look for sites that are not vigorous where the yield is lower and the berries smaller, with brown stems.

Kutch says, "I consistently get my lowest scores from Wine Spectator from my best site - McDougall - so I'm making this wine for me."  Those of us in the audience got to enjoy some, too.  The pair of Kutch wines were 2012 barrel samples, but the drew the distinction between whole cluster and destemmed very clearly.  The Kutch McDougall Ranch Pinot Noir 2012 was 100% destemmed, and the ripeness of the fruit was apparent.  The Kutch McDougall Ranch Pinot Noir 2012 100% whole cluster barrel sample had a tart edge to the fruit.  Kutch will blend the two together for the finished wine, but it will be mostly whole cluster fermented.

Jim Clendenen (left, Au Bon Climat) began using whole cluster fermentation in the early ‘80s. "It can be a green, bitter wine if the site does not support it," he says.  “I'll take less color in the wine from whole cluster fermentation in exchange for the benefits in aromatics and taste."

Clendenen nearly rose to his feet to exclaim, "If we'd been sitting here in the ‘70s we'd be serving broccoli juice, because that's where California Pinot was back then!  We have much better farming methods and winemaking technique now."

Clendenen’s Au Bon Climat Talley Rosemary Arroyo Grande Valley Pinot Noir 2009 is 100% whole cluster fermented, and shows a slight tartness on the nose and palate.  The wine has really beautiful acidity, and is lovely despite the fact that the fruitiness is suppressed by whole cluster fermentation.  The Au Bon Climat Bien Nacido Vineyard Historical Vineyard Collection Pinot Noir 2009 utilizes 50% whole cluster with the Santa Maria Valley fruit.  It’s slightly less tart, but still with beautiful acidity.

Besides looking for the right vineyard for whole cluster fermentation to work, it also has to be the right vintage.  A cooler than normal growing season will not allow sufficient browning of the stems, and therefore whole cluster is rarely attempted.  The 2011 vintage from Santa Barbara County is one in which it’s rare to find a Pinot using whole cluster fermentation.


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Wednesday, February 13, 2013

In Pursuit Of Balance In Chardonnay Wines


Rajat Parr, Matt Licklider, Bob Varner, Gavin Chanin, Jon Bonné
Is Chardonnay wine out of balance in California?  It may seem an unnecessary question, but a seminar held in conjunction with the In Pursuit Of Balance wine tasting event in West Hollywood attempted to answer it at The London Hotel on February 6, 2013.

The seminar offered an exploration - with examples - of what constitutes balance in California Chardonnay.  The panel was moderated by Jon Bonné, wine editor of the San Francisco Chronicle.


From an essay in the event program, by Wolfgang Weber:

"Balance is the foundation of all fine wine.  Loosely speaking, a wine is in balance when all of its components - fruit, acidity, structure and alcohol - coexist in a manner such that should any one aspect overwhelm or be diminished, then the fundamental nature of the wine would be changed."


Sonoma County wine businesswoman and co-founder of this event, Jasmine Hirsch, kicked off the seminar with a few quick comments and turned things over to Bonné and his winemaker panelists.

Bonné got things rolling with a brief history of Chardonnay in California.  "Around 1981, Chardonnay went from being a specialty grape to being the grape the state is known for."  He turned to Gavin Chanin (right, Chanin Wine) for the question of whether winemakers work with Chardonnay because they want to, or because they have to.

"Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are arguably the two best grapes for showing the terroir of specific vineyards," said Chanin.  "It's a neutral grape.  It adapts itself to winemaking technique, but it also can represent the terroir very easily.  Chanin warned against using winemaking technique to "fix" a wine.  "The trick is not to try and make the wine do what you want, but to find a site that mandates what you want."  For site-conscious winemakers in California, there are few better places to go for fruit that the Santa Maria Valley's Bien Nacido Vineyard.  Chanin's Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 has a nose of minerals, green apple and caramel, all taking their turn appearing.  Great acidity and savory fruit flavors mark the palate.

Matt Licklider (left) served on the panel, with his LIOCO partner, Kevin O'Connor in the audience.  Licklider reminisced, "We bonded while tasting wines in the alley behind Spago, spitting in the drain."  He said they formed LIOCO out of a desire to "identify sites that truly have a vocation for the variety."

When the talk turned to the use of oak barrels in ageing Chardonnay, Licklider claimed, "Oak, to wine, is like salt is to meat.  It brings out the flavor of the meat, but you shouldn't taste the salt."

The LIOCO Hanzell Vineyard Sonoma Valley Chardonnay 2011 has a light, smoky nose, savory fruit and a nutty finish.  Hanzell is a warmer site.  While Licklider and O'Connor prefer cool sites, they felt this vineyard was special.  "We worked for years to make a deal to get these grapes," said Licklider.  "The vineyard contains the oldest continuously producing Chardonnay vines in North America."

The other co-founder of IPOB, sommelier and Sandhi winemaker Rajat Parr, admitted that Chardonnay was his "gateway grape."  "It was the one that got me thinking about what can be done with a specific variety.  You know it had an effect on me - I make 80% Chardonnay."  Parr likes the exuberance of the grapes from the north-facing, cold, foggy Sanford and Benedict Vineyard in the Sta. Rita Hills.  The Sandhi Sanford and Benedict Chardonnay 2011 offers a tangy nose with a hint of funk and a sour apple palate.

Bob Varner grows his grapes in the northern part of the Santa Cruz Mountains.  His property faces the bay and sits just below the fog line, benefitting from that cooling influence.  His Varner Home Block Chardonnay 2011 is creamy in the mouth and spicy on the tongue.

Anthony Filiberti (left, Anthill Farms, Knez) says the Demuth family had their Chardonnay planted before planting Chardonnay was cool.  Intended for sparkling wine use, they were all set when California Chardonnay hit it big.  "At 1,700 feet, the vines are above the fog, but still cooler than the rest of the Anderson Valley."  The Knez Demuth Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 offered the fruitiest nose of the five samples, with a delicious, slightly sour palate and a nutty finish.


All five wines are truly extraordinary - and balanced - examples of California Chardonnay, and all are barrel fermented.  None, however, have oak as its calling card.  None are lean or austere, either.  Bonné wondered aloud if the winemakers had left the spent yeast cells - lees - in the ageing wine to give a bigger, fuller mouthfeel.  He asked, "Are lees your friends?"  All the winemakers nodded and said, "Yes, best friends."

After the main presentation concluded, a question came from an audience member regarding the potential of classifying Chardonnay in the same way as Riesling.  Bonné quips, "We'll make Chardonnay as popular as Riesling,"  which elicited a good round of laughs from the audience.


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Monday, February 11, 2013

Wine Artisans Of The Santa Lucia Highlands


The Santa Lucia Highlands AVA of Monterey County is a cool climate growing region, known for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wine grapes.  The folks who promote the appellation go as far as to say they are California’s “premier cool-climate winegrowing district,” although I’m sure the PR firms representing the Russian River Valley, the Sonoma Coast, Anderson Valley and the Sta. Rita Hills would have something to say about that.

The cool climate comes courtesy of the geographical structure of the area.  The SLH AVA is located on the northeast side of the Santa Lucia Mountains.  The Salinas River Valley channels the cool air from Monterey Bay across the mountainside vineyards.  This gives the region a long, cool growing season, perfect for Pinot.

Artisans of some of the 50 vineyards of the SLH were in Los Angeles - Century City, to be precise - on Tuesday February 5, 2013.  They poured their wines at Craft, superstar chef Tom Colicchio’s Los Angeles creation.

The pioneers of the SLH - those who planted in the early 1970s - have been joined over the years by others in the region’s growth spurts during the ‘80s and ‘90s.  The AVA’s website says Rich and Claudia Smith (Paraiso,) the McFarland’s (Sleepy Hollow,) Phil Johnson (La Estancia) and Nicky Hahn (Smith & Hook) were the leaders who discovered that the conditions in this area were exceptional.

The vineyard acreage of the SLH is planted largely to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but smatterings of other grape varieties are around - Riesling, Syrah, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec, Gewürztraminer, Muscat Canelli, Merlot, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and a few others fill out the vineyards.

I sampled at about a dozen of the tables here, and I found that the Pinot Noirs - with some exceptions - were more savory than fruity, and the Chardonnays were mostly rather oaky.  That wasn't always the case, and those that minimized the oak effect benefited from it.

Grape varieties other than Pinot and Chardonnay were few and far between, but they proved a lively minority.  Around the room, I kept hearing the homily, "When I want a Pinot, I look for SLH."  I have also heard variations on that theme about other Pinot areas in California and Oregon, but after tasting a few SLH Pinots, I'm sure these comments are quite heartfelt.  The quality of the Pinots poured here were uniformly high.

August West
Pinot Noir SLH 2011, $32 - This blend of Rosella's and Sierra Mar Vineyards bears a fragrant nose, and a light palate struck with raspberry and tea.  A favorite from Deadhead winemaker Ed Kurtzman.
Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard 2011, $45 - An extremely elegant single vineyard effort, one of many wines produced from Gary Franscioni's vineyard.

Bernardus
The Bernardus Pinots are marked by wonderful acidity.
Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard 2010, $65 - Savory raspberry fruit.
Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard 2010, $55 - The feminine exception at this table full of masculine wines.  Pretty violet nose.
Pinot Noir Soberanes Vineyard 2010, $55 - A delight, with funk on the nose and earth on the palate.
Pinot Noir Gary's Vineyard 2010 - Savory and earthy, which is how they like 'em at Bernardus.

Hahn and Lucienne
These two labels use grapes taken mainly from the cool-climate north end of the AVA.
Hahn Estate Chardonnay 2011, $25 - From the Lone Oak Vineyard, slight oak on the nose and beautiful fruit.
Hahn Estate Pinot Noir SLH 2011, $35 - Beautiful fruit on this three-vineyard blend.
Lucienne Pinot Noir Lone Oak Vineyard 2010, $50 - Great fruit and acidity.

Hope and Grace
Pinot Noir Doctor's Vineyard 2010, $48 - Napa winery comes to SLH for a little savory edge to the fruit. Very nice.

J. Lohr Highlands Bench
Chardonnay SLH 2011, $25 - Eighteen months in oak for this one, but you'd never guess it.  The label's red winemaker, Steve Peck, explains that barrel fermentation on the lees makes for a milder oak effect than fermentation in tanks before oak aging.  One of the better California Chardonnays I've had.
Pinot Noir SLH 2011, $35 - This is a big Pinot with lots of fruit on the nose and palate.  Due for a March release.

Manzoni
Chardonnay North Highlands Cuvée, $30 - Clean and fresh tasting, with good use of oak and great acidity.
Pinot Noir Home Vineyard 2011, $35 - A lovely bouquet, floral and fruity.
Syrah Home Vineyard 2009, $26 - A hint of cocoa on the nose, a savory edge on the palate.

Paraiso
From one of the founding families of the SLH AVA.
Chardonnay Estate 2010, $18 - A bit oaky, but nice green apples and tropical fruit.
Pinot Noir Estate 2009, $25 - Fruity and light, with wonderful freshness.
Pinot Noir West Terrace 2009, $45 - More masculine than the Estate, with savory black tea notes.
Faite Pinot Noir 2009, $60 - A powerful, savory nose brought high fives to winemaker David Fleming.  Great acidity.

Pelerin
Chardonnay Sierra Mar Vineyard 2010, $42 - Big and oaky.
Viognier/Roussanne Les Tournesols 2010, $30 - Easy on the oak, with tropical flavors and great acidity.
Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard 2009, $48 - A great nose, tea notes and very nice acidity.
Syrah "Les Violettes" Paraiso Vineyard 2010, $36 - Light, fresh and aromatic, with 6% Viognier in the mix.

Puma Road
In addition to their SLH wines, they also poured a Gewürztraminer farmed just across the highway from the AVA and some Bordeaux blends grown in Hollister.  All were very nice.
Pinot Gris Silvio's Vineyard 2011, $25 - Two months in new oak is just right.  Apples, peaches, great acidity.
Chardonnay Silver Cap Vigna Monte Nero 2010, $24 - This one gets a short time in oak, then goes to stainless steel.  All fruit.
Chardonnay Reserve Vigna Monte Nero 2011, $50 - Six months in oak brings a lush texture.  One of the better Chardonnays here.
Pinot Noir SLH 2010, $35 - A big, big Pinot.

Sequana
Winemaker James MacPhail creates single-vineyard Pinot for the Hess family of wines.
Pinot Noir SLH 2010, $32 - Elegant and a bit spicy.

Siduri and Novy
Novy Chardonnay Rosella's Vineyard 2011, $27 - The oak is played savory, not sweet.
Siduri Pinot Noir Sierra Mar Vineyard 2011, $51 - Pretty, floral and feminine.
Siduri Pinot Noir Gary's Vineyard 2011, $52 - Savory bouquet, with tea on the palate.
Novy Syrah SLH 2010, $24 - Nice and earthy.

Testarossa
Chardonnay SLH 2011, $34 - A combo of grapes from Lone Oak and Fogstone Vineyards.  Oak spice on tropical fruit.
Pinot Noir SLH 2011, $42 - A fruity middleweight with a floral, spicy nose.
Pinot Noir Fogstone Vineyard 2010, $59 - Fruit and flowers.

Wrath
Chardonnay McIntyre Vineyard 2010, $45 - Minerals and oak.
Pinot Noir Tondre Grapefield 2010, $49 - A savory angle to the floral notes.  Very interesting.
Pinot Noir Boekenoogen Vineyard 2010, $49 - Rich and full in the mouth.
Syrah Doctor's Vineyard 2010, $39 - Cool climate Syrah with a funky edge to the dark fruit.  Quite nice.


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Friday, February 8, 2013

Rock And Roll Wine By Paul Cullen


When a musician offers a wine under his or her name, you can expect certain musical analogies to pop up - like “reds, whites and blues.”  Paul Cullen can handle the blues himself, and he’s man enough to add a pink wine to the red and white mix.

Cullen was the touring bass player for Bad Company back in the early ‘90s.  He still strums the steel strings, but he has also turned his attention from the playing of “Holy Water” to the making of earthy wines.  As he puts it, "From Bad Company to wine company."  Cullen’s “Unplugged and Uncorked” line of wines are actually made by Foothill Wine Cellars of Drytown, CA, utilizing grapes grown under the California sun in the Sierra Foothills.  Winemaker Allen Kreutzer is a winemaking veteran and a drummer, so his involvement in the project seems to be as natural as a C major.

Cullen (right) advises those who pick up the bottle and look at the label to “Tune Your Palate” to his wines.  He provided me with samples of three of his wines - the Sonata lineup - so I banged the tuning fork on the edge of the bar and tried them.

The Paul Cullen wines come under a Stelvin closure - known backstage as a screwcap - and the three segments of this wine symphony all rock an alcohol content of about 14.5% abv.  That’s hitting a high note for some, but it’s about average for California wines.

Sonata Bianco
This wine is the ballad of the concert, a white wine from the Sierra Foothills.  Sauvignon Blanc is played against a bit of Chardonnay.  It has a very pale color, with a nose that’s rather faint, but  pear and peach aromas make their way through a distinct minerality with a slight grassy note on the side.  The palate is savory, with  the fruit again playing second fiddle.  A nice acidity leaves a clean feeling in the mouth, and it should be great with light salads or just for sipping on the porch while your Pandora goes off on a musical tangent.

Sonata Rosé
Here’s a mid-tempo number that makes you think a bit - just what you want about halfway through the show, a little something to keep you interested.  Its color also plays pianissimo, a pretty light pink in the glass - quite Provence looking.  Aromas of strawberries and watermelon provide the main instrumentation, with a green earthiness handling the backbeat.  It’s nice and dry, and the palate puts an earthy spin on the fruit, too.  The strawberry flavor serves as conductor for a rather complex showing of raspberry, cranberry, green apples and a savory rhubarb note.  There’s also a mead-like flavor which I couldn’t quite figure out.  I was rather surprised to find that this wine is a blend of Petite Sirah and an Italian variety Fiano.  Fiano is a white grape grown mainly in Campania and on the island of Siciliy and, apparently, in California’s Sierra Foothills.  A little research led me to the information that Fiano is noted for a honey-like flavor, which would explain the mead thing - since mead is wine made from honey.  Fiano is also known for a rather heavy handed flavor profile, but so is Petite Sirah.  It’s a good duet.


Sonata Rosso
This is the arena-rockin' encore anthem of the performance, the fist-pumping climax of the enological event.  Again from the Sierra Foothills, this medium-weight red blend sports a power trio of Syrah, Zinfandel and Cabernet Franc.  This wine needs a lot of time to shake the alcohol from its bouquet, but I suppose real rockers don’t worry about that.  They probably don’t use the term “bouquet” much, either.  Once the heat burns off, blueberries and vanilla explode from the glass like a flash pod.  There a spiciness that joins the fruit on the palate, too - not a surprise in a wine featuring both Zinfandel and Cabernet Franc.  The oak is quite apparent here, but it fits well into the overall structure of the wine.

The Paul Cullen wines are distributed mainly in Delaware, Maryland and North Carolina, but they are available online, if your state allows wine shipments.  In addition to the wines written about here, they also offer one called Gypsy Red - a Merlot/Zinfandel blend - and a Barbera called Jazz Freak.  Jazz Freak retails for $16, while the others sell for $13.


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Image from www.paulcullen.net