Peel Me A Pelaverga

Whenever my wife gets tired of hearing me talk about wine, which is less often than you might think, I can go to Los Feliz and have a vino convo with Lou Amdur, of Lou Wine Shop. He knows a lot about wine, a lot more than I do. Maybe he knows more than I ever will about wine, but that's okay, because I can learn from him.

One of my recent wine club selections was the 2023 Cantina Massara Pelaverga di Verduno. Yes, Lou finds the best wines for his wine club. If he selects it, I know I'll like it.

The Italian Pelaverga grape variety is pretty rare. Only about seventy-five acres of it are still under cultivation, and Lou says only eleven growers even bother to cultivate it. All of those growers are located in or near the Piemontese commune of Verduno.

Only grape growers in Verduno are allowed the privilege of putting their denomination on the label: Pelaverga di Verduno. Outside of this area, a Pelaverga grower would have to call it simply a vino rosso. These growers do grow Nebbiolo grapes and make very fine Barolo wines that get all the glory, says Lou. But Pelaverga is considered a special grape in Verduno, part of the area's heritage that deserves to be preserved.

As a side note, Lou describes the origin of the grape's name, with an apology for anyone who  might be offended. I'll just say the name stems from the Italian "pela," which means "to peel," and "verga," which translates as "rod." Let your imagination run wild.

The 2023 Cantina Massara Pelaverga di Verduno comes from the chalky, sandy soil of three different vineyard sites in the village. Steel tank vinification takes eight days, and the wine stays in the tank to age for six months. Alcohol sits at 13.5% abv and the wine sells for around $35.

This wine has a light ruby red color. Its nose is bright and elegant, with aromas of pomegranate, cherry, and an herbal note that smells a bit like rosemary. The palate shows cherry, raspberry, and spice aromas, all cloaked in a delightful earthiness. The acidity is racy and fresh. The finish lasts awhile, and brings in a note of cherry candy. 

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LAMBRUSCO AND PELAVERGA BIANCO AT TERRONI

My wife and I often find ourselves at Terroni in Los Angeles for Sunday afternoon lunches.  Normally a little crowded for our taste at dinner time, the restaurant is usually almost empty for a late Sunday lunch.

We chose a red and a white wine, the Lambrusco for me and a white for Denise which we don't see very often on wine lists.

Lancillotto Barbolini Lambrusco Grasparossa Emilia-Romagna NV

My red is made from the Grasparossa clone of the Lambrusco grape, grown in the Castelvetro region of Emilia-Romagna.  Fizzy and foamy when poured, the bubbles diminished somewhat but were still present at the end of the meal, a spicy salami sandwich.

Even chilled, the delightfully grapey nose and big, fruity juice flavor is simply wonderful, especially on a warm afternoon.  Dark berries and black cherry abound on the palate, and it's a beautiful mate for the panini.

Castello di Verduno Pelaverga Bianco Bellis Perennis 2009
Denise opted for a white wine, a Pelaverga Bianco from Castello di Verduno in Piemonte.  The winery - along with a hotel and restaurant - are actually located in a castle.  The Pelaverga Piccolo grape is rare, and is usually used to make red wine.  This wine - from vineyards in Verduno - is vinified as a white wine and given the name "Bellis Perennis," which is the botanical name for an Italian daisy.

While that's a beautiful image, it might well have been named after some Italian rocks.  That's what leads the way on the nose and the palate: minerals, minerals and more minerals.  It tastes of wet rocks and green apple with some tart lemon peel.  Great acidity and an amazing flintiness really refreshes and reminds Denise of "stones in a stream on a hot summer day."  It's a great match for the summertime ciccio, a pizza foldover which is like a Caprese salad pizza sandwich, served cold.


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