Gerard Bertrand In Los Angeles

A two-part event happened in April at a fancy hotel on the Sunset Strip in Los Angeles. The featured star of the afternoon was Gerard Bertrand, pitured at left. He not only brought his personable self to to the Golden State, he also brought his wines.

Part One was a walk-around exploration of some of his lower-priced bottles. These everyday wines, although priced in the $20-$30 range, are every bit as elegant as his top-shelf stuff. Those top-shelf wines were featured in Part Two, which was a seated tasting with Bertrand leading the audience through the menu.

New Wave, the first part, gave the crowd a sample of Bertrand's newer creations, heavy on the trendier items like rosés, orange wines and lighter reds. These wines were all fine examples of how younger wine drinkers can experience wines with a premium feel without dipping into next month's rent.

The Garrigue line is named for Mediterranean shrubs and aromatic herbs which grow alongside the vineyards in Bertrand's Languedoc region. This red, the darkest of the reds sampled, contains Grenache Noir, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. The wine is full of ripe red fruit, wonderful spices, and earth. The firm tannins are joined by a fresh acidity. $20.

La Grande Bleue brings to mind the water bordering the south of France. This white wine has a floral salinity and is light, fresh, and breezy. The grapes are Vermentino (Rolle), Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon. $20.

Orange Gold was my favorite of the walk-around tour. The nose is complex and sweet, with notes of flowers and dried apricots. The palate makes a 180, turning in savory apricot, lemon acidity and salinity. Chardonnay, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Gewürztraminer, and Muscat are the varieties in play. $25.

So'Vive contains Sauvignon, so we expect a bit of grassiness. The Muscat Petits Grains brings a sweet edge to the wine, with low acidity and big minerals. $18

Le Chouchou is a light red wine which finds Bertrand collaborating with his daughter, Emma. This Syrah, Grenache, and Cinsault blend has alcohol at a modest 11%. The color is light, the nose is full of earthy red fruit and the tannins are soft. It's a wine that is very easy to drink. $22.

Trouble comes in three styles: red, pink, and white. It is a slightly fizzy wine, with vibrant fruit, nice acidity, and a bit of earthiness. $25.

Gris Blanc is Grenache rosé, heavy on the minerals with a medium acidity. Rouge Clair, also Grenache, has a bit more color but is still lightly tinted. $17.

French Cancan is a sparkling wine, a Brut Nature Orange, full of red fruit, minerals and toast. $25-$30. 

Part Two of the event covered the essence of Bertrand's new book, Multidimensional Wine. Here, we were treated to Bertrand's philosophy of winemaking. He endeavors to separate everyday wines from those that have a message, and the message is terroir.

Despite Bertrand's wine heritage, he said that he was inspired at the young age of 23 by none other than Robert Mondavi. He has taken that inspiration into a new world of wine, in which he says "organic and biodynamic vineyard practices deliver the footprint of the vintage." Probably the most salient nugget he offered was that "In this crazy world now, we need more wine." I couldn't agree more.

Castellum Sauvignon Blanc 2022 - This wine was Bertrand's example of a quest for excellence. The pretty yellow tint is inviting enough, but this is a very different Sauvignon Blanc. There is no typical "Sauvignon" smell and the palate is savory, yet brimming with yellow fruit. An eye-opener at $35. 

Domaine de l'Aigle Chardonnay 2022 - Bertrand offered this wine to illustrate how changing harvest dates, vinification and maturation, just a little, can make a big difference. This tastes like no other Chardonnay I have ever had. A very savory nose leads to an extremely earthy Chardonnay, a departure from what is expected from the variety. $35.

Château l'Hospitalet Grand Vin Rouge 2021 - This delicious red wine displays the notion that poor soil depends on August rain. The fruit is chalked up by the limestone dirt of La Clape, and the resulting minerality, acidity, and fine tannins are a delight. $50.

Cigalus Rouge 2021 - Bertrand cites that in conventional agriculture, there are 1000 ways micro-organisms affect grapes, 1500 in grapes grown organically. Soils cultivated biodynamically are affected 47,000 different ways. Here's to biodynamic farming. This wine is all about the savory. $56. 

Clos du Temple 2022 - This light, yellow gold rosé has savory strawberry notes and a savory streak that makes it a great pair with caviar. French, caviar, of course. It is all about the sense of place. $195.

Clos d'Ora 2017 - Blending is what Bertrand calls "the pinnacle, the ultimate act" of winemaking. He calls Clos d'Ora a sanctuary, where four great grapes grow in the merging area of mineral, vegetable and animal. If you're blending, do it with the best grapes. $250.

Villa Soleilla 2020 - Who wants to take on an 8000 year-old winemaking tradition started by the ancient Georgians? Gerard Bertrand, that's who. This brilliant orange wine smells of honeyed apricot and has a slightly bitter taste, but it is opulent. We paired it with three different cheeses. The cheeses were jealous of the wine. $195.

I should make it clear that Bertrand's wines from the south of France have long been favorites of mine, and this event only served to bolster that feeling. If you are interested, buy his book. If you buy his wines, he'll be happy with that, too. 

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