Monday, May 19, 2025

Virginia's Top Vermentino

In writing about wine over the past 16 years, I have been fortunate to taste wine from around the world, and from nearly all 50 US states. Mississippi, Oklahoma, Utah, and Wyoming are the only four missing from my American wine itinerary, and I would love to hear from any winemakers in those states.

One of my favorite wine states is Virginia. There is such a wide spread of varieties being grown there. I've sampled Virginia grapes that represent Bordeaux, Burgundy, the Loire, the Rhône, Spain, and Italy. Not to forget, of course, the all-American Norton grape. The good grapes in Virginia are abetted by good winemaking practices, as well.

I was blessed with samples of the winners from the 2025 Governor’s Cup event, which started in 1982. A Zoom call featured the makers of the 12 white wines which made this year's Governor's case, the top dozen bottles from the event. Wine writer Frank Morgan heads up the judging for the event, and he hosted the online round-robin with the winemakers. Morgan really kept the program moving and running on time, a hard feat to accomplish in these online events. He also elicited great commentary from the panelists.

The 2023 Barboursville Vineyards Vermentino was the top scoring wine from the Governor's Cup. Luca Paschina, the Estate Director and Winemaker at Barboursville Vineyards, says that he introduced Vermentino to the vineyard because it thrives in warmer climates. He also notes that when people get the chance to try it, they generally love it. The lovely aromatics, easy mouthfeel, and salty finish provide a big attraction for wine lovers. 

This wine looks yellow-gold with a greenish tint to it. The nose is quite aromatic, displaying a floral note along with massive citrus minerality. The palate has lemon, lime and grapefruit flavors joined by a wonderful salinity. The acidity is very fresh, but the mouthfeel has, overall, a rather soft touch. It’s great to find a Vermentino of this quality that's made in America. Virginia is for Vermentino lovers, I suppose. 


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