A Pair From Valpolicella

This year is the 100th anniversary of the Italian winery Pasqua Wines. The business has been family-owned since 1925, for three generations. Just last year Wine Enthusiast named Pasqua the Innovator of the year. 

The 2015 Pasqua Mai Dire Mai Valpolicella Superiore is made from grapes grown in the Monte Vegro vineyard. The blend is 50% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 10% Rondinella, and 10% Oseleta. The grapes are vinified in steel tanks, then aged for a year and a half in French oak. Alcohol sits at a lofty 15% abv while the 2015 vintage sells for about $50.

This wine is a deep ruby red in the glass, with brick tones starting to show around the edge. The nose is powerful and savory, with the dark fruit accompanied by notes of cedar, tobacco, earth, and licorice. The palate is lean, as the fruit lets the stage be stolen by the savory side. The acidity is quite refreshing, and the tannins have a bit of bite left in them. I paired mine with some Italian beans, but it could also serve well with a steak or a plate of meatballs.

The 2017 Famiglia Pasqua Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG is a classic Amarone made from hand picked grapes that undergo a three-month drying process before fermentation. During this time, the grapes lose about a quarter of their weight. (Maybe I should try it.) That helps bring out the velvety tannins and deep sugar concentration. The grapes were then vinified and aged about a year and a half in French oak. Those grape varieties, by the way, are 65% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, and 10% Corvinone. Alcohol is 15% abv in this wine as well. It retails for $60.

This wine is medium dark garnet with some brown starting to show. The nose brings enough savory for everybody. Currant, fig, and blackberry notes are draped in earthy scents like pepper, tobacco, oak spice, coffee, and tarragon. The palate holds a set of firm tannins and a racy acidity. Flavors of dark berries, cherry, and plum define the wine's profile. It will pair well with pork, lamb, or veal.

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A Bucking Bronco From Italy

The Bronco Wine Company is widely known as a purveyor of inexpensive wines - think "Two Buck Chuck" and others.  The winery has thousands of acres of vineyard land in California's Central Valley, which is not on the list of great places in the Golden State for grape growing.

I have been aware of Bronco Wines for quite some time, but I never realized they sold wines from other countries.  This one is made in Verona, Italy, the 2019 Poggio Della Robinie Superiore Valpolicello Ripasso.

This wine is a blend of four rather unusual grapes.  The corporate website shows that the breakdown is 60% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 10% Corvinone and 10% Negrara.  I have seen other sites dropping the last two grapes and substituting 20% Molinara.  Whatever grapes they were, they were vinified using the Ripasso technique.  The Ripasso method of making wine involves fermenting on the dried skins of the grapes, then putting the wine away for a year in oaken barrels.  The dried grapes bring a rich and deep flavor to the wine.  Alcohol tips in here at 13.5% abv and I paid $20 for a bottle at my neighborhood Whole Foods Market.

The winery offers tasting notes that give wild cherry as one of the flavors.  That assessment is right on the money.  The red fruit - cherry, red currant - is bright and complex, with a dark, earthy edge pushing in from the side.  It's a darkly tinted wine, with a smooth mouthfeel.  I paired it with a beef tenderloin for our New Year's feast, and it was great.  I also used it in a wine sauce for the meat, and it was superb.

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Italian Red Wine Grapes

A special occasion is always made better with special company, and a special wine.  During anniversary week for Denise and I (the 20th!) we had several special meals at places which mean a lot to us.  The Beverly Hills Italian restaurant Da Pasquale is one of those places.  Not only have we never - not once - been disappointed with a meal there, they seemed to put on an extra special table for our day. 

I wanted a Primitivo wine for that meal, but they said they were out of that variety.  I shifted gears and took our server's suggestion that I try a different wine, and I'm glad I did.  It's nice to have people around who are trustworthy.

Allegrini's 2014 Palazzo Della Torre is a blend of Veronese Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella grapes, with a splash of Sangiovese.  Here's the twist: the winery says, "A small percentage of the harvested grapes are left to dry out until December and then added to the previously vinified fresh grapes."  That gives a fleshy, meaty mouthfeel to the finished wine. 

You can't taste it, but the wine is named after what's called a "splendid masterpiece of Renaissance architecture now owned by the family."  Aging went on for 15 months in used oak barrels, with another seven months in the bottle.  Alcohol sits at 14% abv.  It looks like it sells for about $20. 

The wine shows a bit hot on the nose at first, but settles down quickly.  Aromas of stewed figs and red fruit come paired with autumn spices and earth.  It's a hearty red, with red plums, cassis, and more spice on the palate.  I paired it with pappardelle and lamb shank, to much delight. It also went well as a mate to risotto with beef and mushrooms.


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