Hail Minerality! Sicilian Wine Delivers

What's not to love about a good, savory white wine? Here's one I found at Trader Joe's. 

The Valenti Enrico IV 2024 is an Etna Bianco D.O.C. wine. Made from 100% Carricante grapes (check your Century Club list,) the wine was grown on the volcanic slopes of Sicily's Mount Etna. Alcohol sits at 12.5% abv and it sells, usually, for about $20 or less.

This wine has a greenish gold tint in the glass. The nose offers plenty of minerality, from wet sidewalk to limes. The palate is similarly blessed with savory salinity as well as a racy acidity. Notes of pear, stone fruit and Meyer lemon also appear, but are more subdued. The finish is quite long and tart. Pair with shrimp or crab, or simply enjoy a sip or two. It's a delicious wine. 

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French Grapes, Tuscan Soil, Italian Rosato

If you're looking for a special rosé wine, you may be looking in Provence, or California. But don't skip over Italy. There are some good pinks coming out of the country with the boot.

From the heart of Tuscany comes Campo di Sasso's Rissoa 2025. The Toscano Rosato I.G.T. wine is a blend of Cabernet Franc and Syrah, fermented in stainless steel, aged 30 days on the lees, and two months in the bottle. Alcohol sits at 13% abv and it sells for about $32.

This wine is a rich salmon color, with a nice clarity. The nose features cherries, strawberries, a hint of lemon and stone fruit, and a light minerality. Flavors of fruit dominate the palate. Cherry, pear, apricot, lemon, and tangerine all play together. There is a subtle salinity running through the sip. The medium finish is fruity and the acidity is fresh but not racy. I had it with shrimp scampi, and it worked out just fine. 

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Vermentino From Tuscany

Niccolò Marzichi Lenzi is the CEO and co-owner of Tenuta di Biserno and Tenuta Campo di Sasso, wineries on the coastal reaches of Bibbona in Tuscany. There, the microclimate balances warmth and maritime freshness. Ripeness is moderated, extraction kept light, and structure allowed to step aside for wines that feel expressive and uncontrived.

Two wonderful white wines, Occhione and Rissoa, reflect a nuanced expression of the estate, one that is expressive of their environment.

Occhione is a Vermentino wine, a grape for which I have quite a fondness. This Toscana I.G.T. wine is 100% Vermentino and was vinified and briefly aged in stainless steel tanks. It has alcohol restrained at 13% abv and a retail price of around $20. 

This wine colors up in a light straw tint, and it's a little cloudy. The nose offers minerals and various types of citrus aromas, like lime, orange, and lemon. A strong note of apricot and peach also appears. The palate has stone fruit, citrus, and a good streak of salinity. That savory edge lasts through the rather lengthy finish, while the acidity is brisk. This is a nice wine as an aperitif, but it also pairs well with a spicy shrimp dish. 

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Wines For The Calorie Conscious

If you are watching the waistline, Mezzacorona Ventessa has low calorie wines that you may enjoy pairing with diet dishes. 

The 2025 Pinot Grigio is from the Vignetti delle Dolomiti IGT, in the Dolomite Mountains. The term ventessa is described as a delicate wind that blows through the Alpine vineyards. The grapes are sustainably farmed and the wine is vegan and gluten free. Alcohol for both the white and the rosé versions are very low, at 9% abv and they retail for $11. 

This white wine has a pale straw tint in the glass. It's very clear. The nose is fruity and floral, the way you expect a Pinot Grigio to smell. The palate shows stone fruit, hints of citrus, and a note of minerality. It's not terribly complex, but it is tasty. Pair it with salads, seafood, or just sip it. 

The 2025 Mezzacorona Ventessa Rosé is also made from Pinot Grigio, just with more skin contact for the pink color. It shows more red fruit notes, but stays pretty much in the same lane of the white wine.

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I'm A Hog For This Super Tuscan Blend

Super Tuscans are not my first choice when it comes to Italian wines. That does not mean I won't enjoy one now and then. The 2024 Tenuto de Biserno Insoglio del Cinghiale is a Toscana IGT wine made up of 45% Syrah grapes, 28% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% other varieties.

The wine was fermented in steel tanks, then aged 40% in French oak barriques for at least four months, the remainder in steel. Tenuta de Biserno owner Niccolò Marzichi Lenzi  says the name "Insoglio" is a place where wild boars wallow in the Maremma region of Tuscany. Alcohol tips 13.5% abv and the wine sells for around $30. 

This wine is dark ruby in the glass. The nose shows black cherry, plum, and some spice. On the palate, fruit is forward with an earthy minerality following. The tannins are smooth, and the finish is long, with dark berries being the predominant flavor. I used this one for a pasta sauce, but it would also pair quite well with any beef or pork dish. 

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From The Volcano With Funk

Nerina Cardile is, like her grapes, native of and rooted in Sicily. A psychologist by trade, Cardile turned in her bust of Freud for a tractor that fits between the rows of grapes.

Her 2024 Vulcanica is made from 85% Nerello Mascalese and 15% Nerello Cappuccio grapes. This red, and a white indigenous blend, are the only two wines she produces. It's made with spontaneous fermentation, unfiltered and unfined. Alcohol sits at 13.5% abv and it sells for about $30.

This wine has a brick-red color to it, medium dark. The nose is quite savory. Let's be straight. It's kinda funky. Aromas of raspberry and plum are all but vanquished by the funk. Not that it's a bad thing. It's just a funk thing. Be ready. The palate lets a bit more of the fruit get loose, but you're not escaping the funk zone entirely. The savory experience pairs with an astringent acidity and medium firm tannins. This is what I think of as a country wine, one that packs a punch and doesn't worry about being pretty. 

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An Alpine Red Wine From Northern Italy

White wines from the northern part of Italy are fantastic, but here is an Alpine red wine.

From Vigneti della Dolomiti IGT, in the Trentino-Alto Adige of northern Italy, the grapes for this wine are Schiava. They are also known as Trollinger or Vernatsch, depending on where you are at the time. Schiava grapes likely originated in the Trentino-Alto Adige region, as their growth has been recorded there since the 13th century. Alcohol hits a moderate 12% abv and it sells for less than $10 at Trader Joe's.

The 2024 Vola Schiava is light red, with a rusty tint to it. The nose has aromas of blackberries, plums, and blueberries, with a savory dash of earth. The palate is a fruity as you’d like, with strawberry, current, and licorice red rope flavors. The tannins are somewhat soft, which makes for a good sipping wine. Chill it for a hot summer day on the patio.

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Gimme A Gavi

Rosa dell’Olmo is located in Piedmont. They produce Barbera d’Asti, Barbaresco, and Barolo wines, along with today’s feature, Gavi. Piedmont has produced wines since the 6th century, with modern styles emerging in the 19th century.

The Gavi wines are white, this one, the 2024 Rosa dell 'Olmo Gavi, is made solely from Cortese grapes. Alcohol sits at a restrained 12% abv and the price is $10 at Trader Joe's. 

This wine offers a nose that's floral, fruity, and full of minerals all at once. The pale straw color in the glass leads to a palate loaded with stone fruit and citrus minerality. The slight acidity makes for a nice, full mouthfeel. Steel fermentation gives a clean, brisk taste. Pair it with pasta primavera, salads, chicken, or fish.

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A Big White Wine With Some History

Timorasso is an ancient grape variety indigenous to Piemonte. Derthona is the ancient Roman name for the area of Tortona. The word is used in order to brand Timorasso wines to underscore their territory of origin, the Colli Tortonesi DOC.

The 2024 La Spinetta Colli Tortonesi Timorasso Derthona is a full-bodied, white wine representation of the Timorasso grape. The wine was steel fermented, rested on the lees for seven months, and had another four months aging in the bottle. Alcohol sits at 12.5% abv and it sells in the neighborhood of $30.

This wine has a yellow-gold color in the glass with nice clarity. The nose is incredible. Minerality is the star, but there is a streak of salinity that comes across with a soapy, lanolin note. The fruit is largely apricot and Meyer lemon. On the palate, there is an explosion of stone fruit and minerality. The acidity is brisk and the finish is long and savory. This is a big white wine, one with personality to spare. 

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Alpine Freshness In Italian Pinot Grigio

Mezzacorona's 2024 Domenica Pinot Grigio carries the Trentino DOC tag, which means it's a white wine from the place where white wines rule. Domenica was sustainably grown on the foothills of the Alps, with all the minerality, freshness, and crispness that location promises. 

Domenica is Italian for Sunday, which is fine, but feel free to drink it on any day of the week. Alcohol resides at 12.5% abv and the suggested retail price is very affordable at $15.

This wine is crystal clear with a golden-green tint to it. The nose is full of minerality, peach, and citrus, but there is a slightly funky herbal edge to the aroma package. It's a good thing, though. Notable by its absence is a floral component. The palate is a complete joy. The acidity is there, but it's not razor sharp. The flavors center on lemon and lime citrus, with a savory streak running through it. The mouthfeel is soft and round despite the nice level of acidity. 

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Italian Sauvignon Blanc Dating Back To 12th Century

If you want a wine with some history behind it, this is a candidate. The land of the Attems estate in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region of Italy was dedicated to viticulture as far back as 1106. That's the year, not the time of day. They were producing Ribolla Gialla and Refosco wines in 1764.

The winery states that the 2024 vintage saw an uneventful winter, a mild spring, and some welcome rainfall over the summer. The soil from which the Sauvignon Blanc grapes came is partly sandstone that was once a seabed 50 million years ago, and partly alluvial soil dotted with pebbles. The wine was vinified in steel tanks, without malolactic fermentation, and aged for four months on the lees. Alcohol rests at 12.5% abv and the bottle sells for around $20.

This wine has a straw color with a greenish tint. Its clarity is crystal. The nose hits me as New World rather than Old. There is a lot of minerality, the scent of wet sidewalk, and grapefruit. The palate brings citrus minerals to the forefront. An herbal note follows. The mouthfeel is full, yet abundant with acidity. It is a fresh wine, ready for spring salads or shrimp cocktails on the patio. 

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Sicilian White Wine That Outkicks Its Price

Here’s another low-priced wine which I picked up for cooking and got the surprise that it was actually fairly nice to drink. The 2023 Piccolo Fiore Bianco is a southern Italian wine, Terre Siciliane IGT. 

From what I could glean on various internet mentions, it was made from Chardonnay and Catarratto Bianco grapes. It was imported by Vinum International of Napa. Alcohol sits at 12.5% abv and the reasonable price was $9 at Whole Foods Market.

This wine has a muted nose which features hints of citrus, flowers, and salinity. The palate is livelier, with big notes of lemon and minerality, and a decent acidity. It's good if you need a white wine for cooking, but it pairs nicely with seafood, risotto, or pasta primavera. 

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A Bargain Lambrusco Rings The Bell

I have never had a Lambrusco that I absolutely hated, so it's easy for me to spot a potential bargain. The Le Grotte Lambrusco Rosso Dolce is only about $5 at Trader Joe's, so the price is right for a bargain wine, now it just has to be good. 

The wine is subtitled as a "soft red wine," which I suppose is accurate, but the reference to "sweet" is a little off base. It’s a bit darker and more earthy than those words imply. The grapes come from Italy's Emilia-Romagna region, and alcohol checks in low at only 8.5% abv.

This wine is slightly frizzante upon pouring, the purple bubbles dissipating quickly. A whiff reveals fragrant, ripe cherries and concord grapes. The palate is soft and round, full of fresh fruit, a touch of earth and some tingly acidity. Complexity is not the issue here, as it might be with other Lambruscos. This is an extremely drinkable and food-friendly wine. A true bargain. 

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Prosecco: Joyous And Amorous

La Gioiosa et Amorosa Prosecco comes from Treviso, in the Veneto region of Italy. The words in the name translate to "joyous and amorous," so it's a perfect cork to pop for a special occasion. We had some on New Year’s Eve. Most folks spring for a Champagne on that date, but my wife and I didn't plan on staying up late and she doesn't drink a lot of alcohol anyway. This enabled us to have a nice toast.

The Prosecco was made from 100% Glera grapes, alcohol hits only 11% abv, and it sells for less than $20.

This wine is very pale, almost clear. The bubbles rise quickly and dissipate the same way, leaving a frizzante juice. The nose is mineral-based, with hints of lemon, peach, pear, and flowers. The palate shows a split between fruit and minerals, maybe leaning a bit more into minerals. Acidity is nice, but not racy. It's a pleasant sip, suitable for pairing with a soft cheese, fruit, or a salad. 

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Warm Up With Sicilian Nero D'Avola

Cantine Birgi's 2024 Tre Venti Terre Sicilia Nero d'Avola is named after the so-called "three winds" that cool the vineyards in western Sicily. It is made from 100% Nero d'Avola grapes, grown in Sicily. The wine's clean, fresh taste is due largely to the aging process, first in steel tanks, then further in the bottle. Oak is not used in making this wine.

Those who love dark, bold wines will likely enjoy this Nero d'Avola, especially if paired with a dish such as short ribs, sausage, or mushrooms. Alcohol sits at 12.5% abv and it retails for $15.

This wine has a medium-dark ruby tint. The nose offers very muted, almost imperceptible, black cherry, plum, and cassis. The palate has dark fruit and spice, with gentle tannins and refreshing acidity. It's a vibrant, enjoyable wine, if not particularly complex. 

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For A Good Time, Call For An Italian Wine

Give me an Italian wine, and I'll be happy. Then, give me another, before I turn sad again. The local wine club to which I belong recently featured the 2022 Maccario Dringenberg Rossese Dolceacqua. It made me happy.

One of the wine's importers reports that "Giovanna Maccario is the daughter of one the pioneers of viticulture in Western Liguria, already bottling Rossese wines in the early seventies.” She has been making wine and tending vineyards for two decades. 

The grape is Rossese di Dolceacqua, called Tibouren in Provence. Due to drought in 2022, Maccario only produced 5,000 bottles of this gem, rather than the usual 25,000. It was fermented in stainless steel tanks. Alcohol rests at 13.5% abv and the wine may cost you upwards of $50 due to its limited production.

This wine has a nose full of cherry and herbal notes, with a hint of bell pepper. The palate brings red fruit and a savory streak of earth and black pepper with it. There is a strong acidity, and firm tannins for a food friendly wine. 

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Wholehearted Nebbiolo

Winemaker Luca Faccenda grew up in a valley where his family has worked the earth for so long, it bears the family name. The Nebbiolo grapes from his steep Piedmont slopes are grown organically in the Roero region. Faccenda says he strives to neither add to, nor detract from, what the grapes have to offer. The 2020 Valfaccenda Roero hits 13.5% abv and sells for about $40. 

This wine has a nice medium ruby tint in the glass, with a bit of brick red in the pour. The nose has plum and blackberry aromas, along with those of tobacco and purple flowers. The palate has a grip that won't turn loose, extremely firm tannins and wholehearted acidity. The overall impression is that of a savory wine that begs to be paired with steak, the fattier the better. 

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Cookin' With Aglianico

Here's yet another of those bargain wines from Trader Joe's. Julia Child once said that one should never cook with wine you wouldn't drink on its own, and that's a great rue of thumb. I think it was W.C. Fields who said "I cook with wine, and sometimes I add it to the food." Today, it's the 2024  Epicuro Aglianico Puglia IGP.

Freshness and ripeness comes courtesy of the aging process in steel tanks rather than oak. I bought this wine for cooking, but I enjoyed some while the sauce was simmering. I always try to have a red Italian wine on hand for pasta sauce. Alcohol checks in at 13% abv and the price can hardly be beaten, $6 at Trader Joe’s.

This wine is fresh and fruity. The medium ruby tint looks like Pinot Noir. The nose gives red and black fruit aromas, while the palate brings cherries, blueberries, and blackberries to the forefront. It is a clean sip, with no oak coloring the fruit and gentle tannins that make for a nice wine to chill, if you want. 

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Alpine Freshness in Italian Pinot Grigio

Northern Italy is known for its crisp, mineral laden white wines, especially Pinot Grigio. Mezzacorona has been turning out the taste of terroir for more than a century. 

The 2024 Mezzacorona Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie is grown on the limestone slopes of the Dolomite Mountains. The delle Venezie DOC covers a huge wine region which includes Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Veneto, and the province of Trento. This Pinot Grigio has alcohol at the usual 12.5% abv and retails for $11.

This wine has a pale green-gold tint in the glass. The nose shows pear, green apple, and floral aromas, while the palate brings a lot of citrus minerality. The acidity is fresh and lively. If it’s too late for summer weather where you are, don’t worry. This PG will do just fine on the holiday table, especially if you do a seven fishes meal. 

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Wine Shopping With The Wife

I usually make my own selections while shopping the wine aisles. However, I like it when my wife is with me and she takes part in the process. She has great taste, a brilliant palate, a keen eye, and an incredible sense of which wines will be a hit at home. I have a tendency to get stuck in a rut, as enjoyable as my wine rut is, and Denise brings a different perspective to the table.

Recently, while having lunch at Joan's On Third in Los Angeles, she drifted over to the small shelf of wines near our table. One of her selections was a non-vintage, fizzy wine from Liguria, in northwestern Italy. The region is named Colline Savonesi, while the grape that makes up this wonderfully refreshing wine is the Lumassina. Alcohol is quite low, just 11% abv, and the price tag says $28. That’s a bit more than I like to spend on a "fun" wine, but this one offered some complexity and scored well at a party. Punta Crena wines are imported by Kermit Lynch. 

This wine is almost clear in the glass. The bubbles come up quickly and disappear soon, too. The nose is yeasty and earthy, with a big mineral aspect. It’s rather like an off-the-beaten-path Champagne. The palate shows Meyer lemon, zest, and that yeasty note. It’s a festive wine, and a tasty one, too, with plenty of pairing appeal. 

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