Wednesday, September 10, 2025
Bring On The Vermentino
Monday, March 24, 2025
A Garnacha By Another Name Is... Cannonau
The 2020 Cardedu Caladu Cannonau di Sardegna is made from 100% Cannonau grapes, spelled with one n on the front label. Cannonau is Sardegna's version of the Spanish Garnacha grape, and the most widely-planted grape on the island. Caladu is the Sardinian word for sunset.
Caladu was fermented in cement tanks, then aged three years in cement. Alcohol checks in at 13.5% abv and I paid $23 for it at Eataly.
This wine is inky dark. The nose has very dark fruit notes, but it is primarily savory. Aromas of tobacco, tar, smoke, and earth dominate, in a bold show. The palate has more fruit coming forward, but it still has to fight for attention with the savory flavors. I paired the Cannonau with a variety of cheeses to good effect, but it went quite well with sauteed mushrooms.
Wednesday, February 15, 2023
A Fantastic White Wine From Sardinia
The Torbato grape is not indigenous to Italy. It traveled from Spain to France before being brought to Sardinia by the rulers of the day. It is a white grape - known in France's CĂ´tes du Roussillon as Tourbat - and is known for its smoky notes.
This wine was vinified by Giovanni Pinna in stainless steel tanks. Alcohol hits only 12.5% and it sells for a ridiculously low price of about $15. I got mine on sale at Eataly for a few dollars less.
This white wine has the color of light onion skin - a nice hue for a white which has been in the bottle for some five years. The nose is immediately familiar to me, even though I have never tasted this grape before. It smells like the white wines of the Midwest and northeastern U.S. There is a strong fruit aroma - apricot and Meyer lemon - and an even stronger mineral aspect. A little bit of melon brings what little sweetness I pick up. The palate shows a basket full of savory notes - lanolin, minerals, citric tartness, pepper, spice and sage. Acidity is fine - not too tingly but not too flat. The finish is lengthy and focused on the fruit. I am impressed.
This wine paired magnificently, by the way, with the turmeric and lemon bowtie pasta I bought at Eataly. I mixed it with cabbage and onions in butter. So simple, so good.
Monday, April 5, 2021
Two Sardinian Vermentino Wines
Pala Vermentino di Sardegna Stellato 2019
The Sardinia Pala wine estate was founded in 1950. Mario Pala is the third generation of the family to tend the vines, with the help of his wife Rita and the fourth generation of the family: Massimiliano, Elisabetta and Mariantonietta.
The Vermentino grapes for this wine were grown in a single 60-year-old vineyard. The wine was fermented in steel and aged there for five months on the lees, the spent yeast cells. This gives additional heft to the wine and a fuller mouthfeel. Alcohol gets up to 14% abv and the wine sells for and average price of $18.
This Vermentino delivers what I love about the grape, especially those from Sardinia. It is a smell that is more than simple salinity, it is the ocean. With flowers floating on it. The palate brings a savory smattering of citrus, along with a gentle acidity that lets us know that it is there without ripping a gash in our tongues. Seafood time.
Surrau Vermentino di Gallura Superiore Sciala 2019
Vigna Surrau is also located on the Italian island of Sardinia - Sardegna, if you prefer. The isle is mainly mountainous, and the winery says there is plenty of unspoiled wilderness and forests of oak and cork trees.
Their 2019 Vermentino di Gallura Superiore Sciala comes from Sardinia's jagged coastline, the part in the island's northeast corner, called Costa Smeralda - the Emerald Coast. Gallura - which means "stony area" - is the first and only Sardinian DOCG. The 100% Vermentino grapes were grown in that region's granitic soil. Alcohol tips 14% abv and the average price for a bottle is $24.
This wine has a floral nose, but that does not shortchange the minerality. There is a good bit of lemon and salinity in the mix, too. The palate shows the citrus and minerals strongest, with a very nice bit of acidity. Extremely nice, actually. I should have had some seafood with it, but it was cream of mushroom soup day at the house, with some rice on the side. It paired quite well.
Monday, October 5, 2020
Red Blend From Sardinia
Carignano, is known in its native Spain as Carignane, a grape which the winery identifies as being known for its elegant and velvety tannins. The 2015 vintage was reportedly a good season - there were only a few days of rain in late September which had no effect on the grapes.
This Sardinian wine is extremely dark and smells of tart, red fruit and a strong herbal accent. It really has a wonderful nose. The palate comes on a bit riper, but not much. The acidity is quite fresh and racy, while the tannins are firm enough, but do not get in the way. Pair this wine with salami.
Tuesday, June 19, 2012
Two Vermentinos
Wine made from the Vermentino grape is one of the more refreshing experiences in life. Often a Vermentino wine will come from the Italian island of Sardegna - or Sardinia - but the grape is also cultivated elsewhere, like in France, California and Virginia. Vermentino has been found through its DNA to be identical to the Pigato grape in Liguria and the Favoria in Piedmont.
There are few true Italian grape varieties planted on Sardegna, and Vermentino is one of the few. The grape varieties found on the island tend to be those with more of a tie to France or Spain - Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malvasia and Bobal are plentiful, as is Cannonau, a Grenache clone.
A new restaurant in Los Angeles - Gusto, on 3rd near the Beverly Center - specializes in homestyle Italian with wines to match. Chef Victor Casanova says the place is designed as a "cool neighborhood joint with an informal vibe and intoxicating aromas," and he has succeeded in those efforts.
Gusto has a nice wine list, too. It’s tidy and well-stocked with good Italian choices. I had the Villa Solais Vermentino, from Sardegna, with my meal. The golden color is lovely and the nose - rather than being all about the aromas of the ocean, also shows traces of wood and an herbal note that is intriguing. The wine has a great acidity - great with food - but it also feels somewhat full and creamy in the mouth. It’s $8 by the glass.
We had appetizers of tomatoes stuffed with burrata and fried squash blossoms stuffed with cheese, followed by the roasted chicken and a side of rosemary potatoes. The freshness of the food is simply amazing - Gusto instantly became our favorite Italian food in Los Angeles.
The Vermentino, unfortunately, did not hit the mark for Denise with the tomatoes - a little too much acidity in that mouthful - but it was excellent with squash, the chicken and the potatoes.
Some Vermentino was poured in Las Vegas, too, at the Terra Rosso restaurant at Red Rock Resort. The Guado al Tasso Bolgheri Vermentino is part of the Antinori wine group. It comes from the Guado al Tasso estate on the Tuscan coast . The wine is vinified in stainless steel tanks.
The pale straw color tips me off to the fact that it might be a stainless steel wine, since wood usually imparts more of a golden shade in a white wine. Smelling the wine offers that wonderful “oceanesque” salinity, but there’s also a nice presence of apricots here. The acidity level is wonderful, and it feels vibrant in my mouth.
It would have been a better match with seafood, but it did alright with the late-night snack of arancini bolognese - fried, mozzarella-stuffed risotto.
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Saturday, July 24, 2010
SELLA AND MOSCA LA CALA VERMENTINO 2006, SARDEGNA
Saturday, February 27, 2010
Santadi Vermentino 2008
Vermentino is a specialty of the island of Sardegna, and Santadi is a winemaker's co-op there. The wine is a beautiful golden color with a greenish tint. It looks wonderful in the glass. It smells great, too. There's a floral scent that is laced with an overriding minerality, sort of like flowers that have been trod into some wet rocks. Pears and melons are on the palate, but again it's the minerals you really notice. The taste is almost salty or briny. Perhaps that's only to be expected from grapes grown in Sardinia. Their seafood staples are a natural match for this wine. I had it with a salmon salad but would imagine it's even better with marinated calimari or scungilli.
If you've never tried a Vermentino with seafood, you really should do yourself a favor. You'll be pleased.
Winemaker: Cantina Santadi
Appellation: Italy > Sardinia > Vermentino Di Sardinia
Vintage: 2008
Cost: $11 per glass at Sprazzo
Acquisition disclaimer: Purchased by the author