Ponte Family Estate Winery
A daytrip to the Temecula California wine country found us at Ponte Family Estate Winery. Overseen by Claudio Ponte, the joint was jumping on a spring Saturday afternoon. Granted, it was the World of Wine barrel tasting weekend, but I was assured by several staffers the crowd was not unusually large for a Saturday afternoon.
Ponte's tasting room is festive, the restaurant - the Smokehouse Winery Restaurant - does good business and appears to satisfy, judging from the smiles on the diners' faces. I'm also judging from the samples offered in the barrel room over the weekend event.
The Ponte Winery motto is stated on their website: "If you like it, then it's good wine." So heartfelt is that mission statement, they have registered the thought as a trademark. Winemaker Mark Schabel does his part to make sure you like the wines.
The 2009 Viognier has a nose of pears and melons with some tropical flavors and a lively acidity. Framing the fruit is an intriguing savory, nutty edge on the palate. It retails for $24. The '09 Sangiovese barrel sample shows very bright cherry flavors, good acidity and mellow tannins. It's rustic and deemed "not ready yet" by the winemaking crew, but it's definitely getting there. I was told it should be ready for release "sometime this year," by the gentleman pouring for us.
A couple of tasty food samples were provided along with the wines. Arancini - Italian rice balls - were provided to those tasting. They paired beautifully with the Viognier, and when adorned with the duck Bolognese sauce, went well with the Sangiovese. Executive Chef Greg Stillman and Sous Chef Vincent Logan (pictured) are to be commended for turning out a large quantity at high quality. Logan told me early Saturday afternoon, "We did 800 of the Arancini, and we're running out. So Greg's in the kitchen working on another batch."
As I said, they do a good business at the restaurant.
Maurice Car'rie Winery
After Ponte, we were to meet some friends at Maurice Car'rie Winery, which works in tandem with neighboring Van Roekel Winery. A fun tasting room in a Victorian style house offers some fun wines at the winery established in 1986. Most of the wines are a little on the sweet side for me, but that's what Jose and Heather like about them. It's their favorite Temecula winery. They do make great sippers on the porch, though, especially the whites. Winemaker Gus Vizgirda is of Lithuanian ancestry and studied German wines while serving in the U.S. Air Force there.
A door in back leads to the barrel room, where we tried a new release and a not-quite-released barrel sample. Some spicy little meatballs were kept over heat next to an array of cheese and bread. After the barrel room, we took a table on the porch, where Jose produced a couple of bottles of his favorites. There are some picnic tables on the grounds also available.
Sampled in the back room was the 2010 Sauvignon Blanc - a slight grassiness was offset by a sweet side. Pineapple and tropical notes abound. A barrel sample of the '10 Chardonnay - only 4 months in oak so far - shows very nice tropical fruit as well. They are giving it some more time in the barrel, but for my palate the oak is just right.
Pineapple Champagne caught my eye in the tasting room. It isn't really Champagne, of course, and has a small amount of pineapple juice augmenting the sparkling wine. It's tasty and fun, much like a sparkling cocktail. The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon is simple on the nose and palate. We drank it chilled outside and it was enjoyable. The 2010 Riesling has a honeysuckle nose, tasting of pears with good acidity, especially on the finish. It was fantastic with the bread.
Oh, the bread! Baked Brie and Sourdough loaf, with the brie baked inside. It's available baked on weekends only - lucky us - and unbaked every day.
A support group is a welcome friend when you feel you aren't getting the attention you deserve. South Coast Winery Resort and Spa, in the Southern California wine country of the Temecula Valley, held the first of what appears to be a series of events called Group Therapy on February 23, 2011. Fans of Temecula wines certainly know how to support one another. They also know how it feels to be an afterthought when the conversation turns to the grape-growing regions of California.
The region lies about as far away from Los Angeles as Santa Barbara, but in the other direction. Located a couple of hours southeast of L.A., Temecula is tucked away south of what's known as the Inland Empire. Thanks to the eastward curve of the California coastline, however, Temecula is less than 20 miles away from the Pacific Ocean. They get enough of that good ocean breeze to make grapes a viable commodity.
Though they are still "bubbling under" as a wine region, South Coast is one of the leaders in bringing a Napa-style elegance to the valley. The sprawling resort is easily one of the showcases of Temecula, if not the pinnacle. Private villas, music features, wine dinners, the Grapeseed Spa and a tasting room environment that places fun above all else make South Coast one of the most popular stops on the Temecula Wine Trail. If you've ever been to a wine country wedding, you get the idea of the mix between fancy and fun which the folks at South Coast maintain. It is, no doubt, a big reason so many weddings are held at the resort.
At Group Therapy, though, it was the wine they wanted to focus on. The event was presented live at the winery and streamed online for those who couldn't make it. A Group Therapy package of the wines to be discussed was offered for sale through the winery's online store.
Winemakers Jon McPherson and Javier Flores proved to be a nice team heading up the show. They served as "play-by-play" and "color commentator" for the evening, with McPherson providing a solid background for the wines on the table and Flores interjecting some whimsical banter along the way. McPherson opened with a lesson on how to grade wine by numerically scoring its different facets. He seemed to catch some in the audience off guard when he revealed that Pinot Grigio is actually a red grape, and the reason it has no color is because the juice sees limited contact with the skins.
Owner/vintner Jim Carter was also along, and he touched briefly on the struggle Temecula has had getting what he feels is proper recognition of the product. "We're right there with Napa," is how he summed up his feelings on the quality of the wines being made in the valley, and at South Coast in particular.
I couldn't make it to Temecula for the live Group Therapy session, so South Coast provided me with two of the wines that were the topic of discussion, and I followed along online.
Pinot Grigio Temecula Valley Sparkling Wine
This bubbly is the 2010 vintage and is comprised of 63% fruit from the Temecula Springs Resort Estate Vineyards, 23% Schuler Vineyards grapes and 14% from Huis Vineyards. Pinot Grigio may be an offbeat choice for a grape from which to make a sparkling wine, but it works well. The grape is known for fruity flavors and crisp acidity. South Coast uses vinification methods similar to those used in Italy's Alto Adige, so it's not too surprising that it comes across with an Italian Prosecco-like flair.
Prodigious medium-sized bubbles produce a frothy, white head and the nose is full of fruit. Apples are prominent, with an aroma that reminds me apple cider, or Apple Beer, a soft drink I used to enjoy as a kid. Peaches also make an appearance, as does a slight grassy note. On the palate it's apples and pears. The sparkler is nice and dry, with good acidity that remains after the bubbles quiet down a bit. It's a really lovely taste with fruit for days. It's also very drinkable at only 11.8% abv.
Il Temporale 2007
The fruit for this Super Tuscan-meets-Bordeaux blend comes from Wild Horse Peak Mountain Vineyards. The red is made up of 58% Sangiovese, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Petit Verdot and 10% Merlot. On the nose, oak is apparent. Cherry and earth notes are discernible, too. The palate shows the effect of 14 months in French oak, with vanilla accents and a cherry cola flavor. Although I find the oakiness just a bit distracting, there is depth and complexity there. I like the way the spicy character of the Petit Verdot shines through. The tannins are strong enough for pairing with roast beef. Il Temporale logs a 14.1% alcohol number.
The winemaker dinner I attended at San Antonio Winery in downtown Los Angeles on October 9, 2010 was eye-opening in more ways than one.
Not only was it my first visit to the oldest working winery in Los Angeles, I’m ashamed to say, but it was also the first visit for many at my table - including someone who lives next door to one of the principal figures in the winery! I was also corrected on my uninformed opinion that San Antonio Winery was a lonely, neglected building hidden among a bunch of warehouses.
True, the landscape in this part of downtown L.A. is a bit industrial. True, Lamar Street, on which the winery is located, has a fairly large population of big trucks - even on Saturday afternoon. But forget the notion that San Antonio Winery is a forgotten building. Denise and I sat in the car for a few minutes before going inside. The foot traffic we observed going in and out of the front door was amazing. It seemed to never stop - or even slow down. Paso Robles or Santa Barbara wineries would kill for that kind of business.
Once inside, looking to the left - where the tasting bar is - there was no way to muscle my way in. It was was simply too crowded. I was told by one of my table mates that the crowd on this early October Saturday was nothing. “Just wait until the holidays,” she said. “They really start getting the crowds then!”
History
For the uninitiated, San Antonio Winery has been a historical landmark in Los Angeles for about 45 years. The winery was founded in 1917 by Santo Cambianica , at a time when the California wine industry was changing from sweet and fortified wines to dry red wines. The winery is still family-owned and operated.
For this once-a-year event, Michael and Anthony Riboli presided over the festivities, sharing time talking about the various wines and pouring them, too.
The dinner was staged in the barrel room in the rear portion of the winery. There were about a dozen or so large round tables seating up to eight diners each. At our table, we joined Adrianna, Virginia, Diane and Jim. I think I was the one person at our table most interested in the wine - it’s usually that way for me. Jim admitted he was “not much of a wine person,” but even he was really getting into the fun of tasting and pairing.
Tasting the wines was somewhat eye-opening for me, too. I was actually familiar with only one of the wines served at this dinner, so I had the chance to sample a variety of the San Antonio Winery’s product. I was impressed by all of them.
Heritage
The Riboli family takes their tradition very seriously. The word “heritage” kept popping up throughout the evening as Michael and Anthony spoke of the winery and wines that are their own heritage. The word even appears on a series of wines designed to celebrate the history of the winery and the family.
Grapes for the Riboli’s wines are estate-grown, not sourced from other growers. They own vineyard land in several areas of California you may have heard of - Paso Robles, Monterey County, Napa Valley.
“The vineyard is the most important part of winemaking,” Anthony explained. “If the grapes aren’t good, the wine won’t be good.” Echoing a wine industry axiom, he said, “The best wines are made in the vineyard.”
Michael got philosophical when ruminating on his family’s history as winemakers. “Making wine is our business,” he said, “but it’s great to have a business where making people feel good is the end result.”
Anthony selected the wine pairings for the evening’s meal, and the pairings were very smart. Having good wine is a great first step, but knowing how to pair it with foods that will accentuate the wine’s highlights is a special ability. Anthony showed he knows how to pair wine as well as make it.
Maddalena Sauvignon Blanc, Paso Robles 2009 - served with glazed, marinated albacore salad with an avocado and ginger paste.
The 100% varietal wine sees mostly steel - just two months in neutral oak. It shows a slightly grassy nose with abundant minerals. On the palate, it’s rich and round with a citrus tartness and lemon zest. I wish for the finish to last longer, but I’m left with the bracing sensation of wet rocks afterward.
This was the pairing of the night for me, as the wine and the food combined to create an entirely new taste. The wine, mixed with the avocado and ginger paste, spawned a mustard-like flavor which surprised and delighted me.
Heritage Blanc, Central Coast 2009- served with seared sea scallops with white frisee, Dijon vinaigrette and tarragon puree.
An “oddball blend” of Viognier, dry Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc. The different wines are blended and stirred during the two months the wine spends in neutral oak barrels. The nose is aromatic and floral, with honeysuckle predominant. The taste is of tart apples with a layer of minerality and citrus. This is a zesty wine, too, with great acidity.
It scores in combination with the scallops. It’s one of three wines now offered with a distinct “retro” label which images the winery’s own heritage.
Windstream Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands 2008 - served with grilled, five spice marinated quail, with bacon fried rice and an orange hoisin sauce.
I had tasted this wine at a Pinot show in Pasadena earlier in the year, and it was my favorite at that show. Still showing a huge nose of cherries and plums, this wine seems very dark for a Pinot Noir, both in color and taste. The effect of the French oak is tastefully apparent.. The palate is huge and intense, with cherries and raspberries on a dark earthiness.
It paired quite nicely with the intense flavors of the five spice and hoisin, and brought an extra dimension to the slightly gamey bird. I would love to have this wine with a steak, too.
San Simeon Syrah, Monterey 2007 and Heritage Red Rhone Blend, Paso Robles 2006 - both served with pappardelle pasta with white chanterelle mushrooms.
The Syrah has a nose of blackberry and black pepper with an intense palate showing jammy, spicy fruit. The wine is in French and American oak for two years, and it shows the effect of both. There are nice vanilla notes from the American oak and spiciness from the French.
The Red Rhone Blend contains Syrah, Petite Sirah, Mourvèdre and Grenache. This wine shows earth on the nose and tastes of fruit and beef.
To choose one of these wines as the pairing winner, I’d go with the Rhone blend because of its earthiness, matching so well with the mushrooms.
Riboli Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford 2007 (Library Selection) and Riboli Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford 2008 - both served with herb-roasted beef tenderloin with sautéed Porcini mushrooms.
The ‘07 has an earthier nose with plummy fruit, while the ‘08 has a fruitier taste and a graphite edge. Both are drinking very well and have a nice, full mouthfeel with very smooth tannins.
Both of these wines paired well with the beef. I couldn’t name a favorite between the two Cabs.
La Quinta Crema Marsala, California NV - served with chocolate terrine with spiced dried fruit compote and a cinnamon cream.
The Marsala’s nose of raisins, spice and honey could serve as dessert on its own, but you really wouldn’t want to miss tasting it. A sherry-like flavor of candied fruit pairs well with both the fruit and chocolate.
This brown-colored, fortified wine is 18% abv and would be right at home after a big Thanksgiving meal or Christmas dinner.
The only working winery in Los Angeles - San Antonio Winery - invites you a Winemaker Dinner on Saturday October 9th, 2010 from 6:00 - 9:00 p.m. The dinner will be hosted by Anthony Riboli and Michael Papalia.
San Antonio Winery, at 737 Lamar Street in downtown Los Angeles, has been functioning since 1917, and that includes Prohibition. The winery was allowed to continue producing sacramental wines during that period. Today, the Riboli family still owns it, and makes wine produced from estate vineyards in Napa Valley, Monterey, Paso Robles and other California grape-growing areas.
It's well worth a visit to San Antonio Winery anytime, to see their wine store and the gourmet restaurant, Maddalena Cucina. It's a particularly good time to visit for this Winemaker Dinner, a once-a-year event. It's $78 per person, and you can buy tickets through their website, or call 323.330.8771. The four-course gourmet menu will be paired with wines from the Riboli family library.
Among the wines to be sampled are:
2009 Maddalena Sauvignon Blanc, Paso Robles
2009 Heritage Blanc, Central Coast
2008 Windstream Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands (this was my favorite wine at a Pinot Noir event in Pasadena earlier this year)
2007 San Simeon Syrah, Monterey
2006 Heritage Red Blend
2007 Riboli Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford - Library Selection
2008 Riboli Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford
La Quinta Crema Marsala
These wines will be paired with the following dishes:
Glazed marinated albacore salad with avocado and ginger
White frisee with Dijon vinaigrette and tarragon puree
Grilled five spice marinated quail and bacon fried rice with orange hoi sin sauce
Sweet potato gnocchi with fourme de ambert cheese sauce and roasted shallots
Herb roasted veal strip loin with sautéed porcini mushrooms and baby turnips
Chocolate terrine with spiced dried fruit compote and cinnamon cream.
If you are heading from Los Angeles to Santa Barbara soon - possibly for the California Wine Festival in Santa Barbara - you'd be well advised to plan a stop in the little beach community of Summerland, CA. Here's an account of a stop I made there in the summer of 2009.
Why had we never gotten off the 101 freeway in Summerland before? Maybe it’s because when we pass that way we’re usually headed for either Santa Barbara or the Santa Ynez Valley, and it seems we should just press on and get where we’re going. Maybe it’s because we never knew there was a really great little highway grocery there. Maybe it’s because we never realized Summerland Winery's tasting room was there.
Well, this time we were headed for Pismo Beach, so it was actually perfectly positioned as a stopping place. We needed to pick up a few things at a market of some sort. The Summerland Winery just happened to be there, in the right place at the right time.
The tasting room is in a tidy little building in the seaside community of Summerland, between Los Angeles and Santa Barbara. There’s a bay window upstairs and a flag adorns the front, flapping in the cool ocean breeze. I had imagined it would look more like a boutique and less like a tasting room inside, but I was wrong. Ample bar space beckoned, so I picked up a tasting menu and got started.
I had just sampled Summerland’s wares at the Ojai Wine Festival a week earlier – my pourer recognized me – so I knew there were good wines here. The tasting fee is $8, $12 to keep the glass.
Sauvignon Blanc, Santa Barbara County, 2007 – A pungent aroma leads to tropical flavors and grapefruit. The acidity is quite nice, so I would guess it’s a good wine to have with food. It’s very crisp and refreshing, so you could just sip it if you like.
Pinot Gris, Santa Barbara County, 2008 – More tropical flavors, and a nice clean finish.
Chardonnay, Rancho Santa Rosa, 2007 – 10 months in oak left its mark on this one. It’s very oaky, although with a clean taste and finish.
Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County, 2007 – Brilliant aromas and flavors in this one – black cherry and clove all over the place. This is not subdued – it’s a very lively Pinot Noir.
Grenache, Paso Robles, 2006 – This medium-bodied Grenache surprised me. It tasted a lot spicier than I expected. Fairly nice, but I can think of several other Grenaches I like better.
Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, 2006 – The black currant profile is very strong here. French oak for 14 months gives a nice effect, but the wood is rather restrained.
Orange Muscat, Santa Barbara County 2008 – This dessert wine isn’t sappy, it’s nice and crisp in fact. The sweetness is there, it simply isn’t overdone.
