Wednesday, September 29, 2021

Italian Wine From The Grignolino Grape

It's always nice to see that a wine box has arrived through one delivery service or another.  It's especially nice when it means that I get to try a grape which is new to me.  I have sampled more than a hundred different grape varieties during my wine writing life.  I don’t know precisely how many, but here is one more to add to the pile, and I'm happy to have had a taste.

The 2020 Tenuta Montemagno Ruber Grignolino d'Asti is made entirely of the Grignolino grape. The folks at Montemagno say it's "one of the oldest indigenous varieties in the Monferrato," in Italy's Piedmont region.  It was apparently known in the Middle Ages as Barbesino, but the name actually comes from a word meaning seeds, since these grapes are full of them.  Alcohol sits at 13.5% abv and the wine retails for about $14.

This wine has an extremely light garnet color and a nose of flowers, strawberries and earth.  The palate is full of bright red fruit that’s a bit tart, but it's the tannins that will leave you gasping - extremely firm, with a razor's edge acidity.  This is not to say it's unpleasant - quite the opposite, in fact.  It is a very distinctive wine - one that may possibly have to grow on you.  Try it chilled for starters.

Monday, September 27, 2021

Lovely Albariño Wine

Albariño wines are some of the mainstays of the Spanish wine industry, and anyone who likes a good white wine should be on board already.  Albariño is not only a delicious white wine on its own, but it is one of the more food-friendly grapes you’ll find.  In fact, Albariño seems to crave a food pairing so it can show its best, especially with seafood.  

The wines which were made available for an online virtual tasting event were produced in the Rías Baixas region of Spain, up in the northwest corner of the country, the place that Albariño calls home.  I was given three of them for sampling.

Granbazán Étiqueta Verde Albariño 2020

Etiqueta Verde - Green Label - is Granbazán's entry level Albariño.  Importer Skurnik Wines explains that the Verde was made from a combination of free-run and lightly pressed juice.  The wine was fermented with indigenous yeasts in a tank, where it aged on its lees for four months.  

This Rías Baixas Albariño is pale yellow in the glass.  The nose is like a bouquet of flowers, with some elegant citrus notes to hold them together.  Lemon, lime and orange are all here for the smelling.  The palate sings of citrus and apples and has an acidity that is zippy enough for oysters.  The finish shows a wonderful salinity which puts me in mind of the ocean.

Pazo das Bruxas Albariño

The Miguel Torres family asserts that their wine is partly the result of legendary Galician witches, who cast spells to get the vines to produce well.  Now, that's a back story.  There is even a picture of the witches - artist's conception, I'm guessing - on the label.

The Pazo das Bruxas Albariño is produced largely with grapes from the O'Rosal area, combined with some from the Salnés Valley.  The winery says that both areas are known for their Atlantic climates, influenced by the nearby ocean.

The wine is made in stainless steel tanks, with no oak.  Alcohol resides at 12.5% abv and it’s usually sold for just under $20.

This wine has a rich yellow-green tint.  On the nose I thought I smelled some oak, but I was mistaken.  It's all steel.  There is an overriding salinity that mutes the floral, apricot and citrus aspects a bit.  The palate carries that salinity as well.  That, plus a racy acidity, makes me want some oysters with it.

Leira Pondal Albariño

The Pondal winery is in the second generation of turning Albariño grapes into wine.  They also grow Treixadura, Caiño Blanco and Loureira grapes on the estate.

The winery states that the grapes selected for the 2020 Leira Pondal come from vineyards in El Rañado, Torre and El Alto - higher altitude vineyards with less humidity, more ventilation and a greater temperature variation between day and night.  This all allows for a wine with greater aromatic intensity and acidity.   The alcohol level rests comfortably at 13% abv and the retail price is around $18.

This wine brings the floral on the nose, as well as a strong mineral aspect.  The citrus notes include lime, lemon, orange and even a little grapefruit.  The acidity is fairly strong and the finish is lengthy.  

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Friday, September 24, 2021

Blood Of The Vines - The Future Is Fear

Pairing‌‌‌ ‌‌‌wine‌‌‌ ‌‌‌with‌‌‌ ‌‌‌movies!‌‌‌  ‌‌‌See‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌hear‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌fascinating‌‌‌ ‌‌‌commentary‌‌‌ ‌‌‌for‌‌‌ ‌‌‌these‌‌‌ ‌‌‌‌‌movies‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌many‌‌‌ ‌‌‌more‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌at‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌From‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Hell.‌‌‌  This week's three films deal with a future that looks like the past and serves as the present.  Of course, there are wine pairings for each.

Filmmakers from the U.S., New Zealand and South Africa collaborated on the 2009 sci-fi District 9, which is set in an imaginary 1982.  Back then, I thought 1982 was imaginary until I got my MTV.  

In the movie, a spaceship appears over Johannesburg and it turns out to be full of alien bug-people.  The South African government puts these aliens into a camp - District Nine - and the place turns into a slum over the years.  Locals derogatorily call the residents "prawns" and claim that they are dirty, dangerous and a drain on government resources.  Sound familiar?  Maybe they should have given them tinfoil blankets.  

The tale was inspired by actual events in South Africa's time of apartheid.  There was a Cape Town area called District Six which was branded by the government as "whites only," resulting in the removal of thousands of black Africans from their homes.

Let's do a wine pairing that is as ripped from the headlines as the inspiration for District 9.  In South Africa's Stellenbosch region there is a wine estate named Louiesenhof Wines.  There is also controversy after impoverished people from a neighboring township stormed part of the owner's land a few years ago and built shacks upon it.  Last year, the owner was murdered in his home.  One of the people facing charges in the case is... his wife.  Excuse me while I update my Final Draft program and get started on this script.

If you can locate any product from Louiesenhof Wines, try a Pinotage.  The grape's detractors say it leaves a taste in your mouth as bad as apartheid.  Its fans think of it as wine's Rusty Nail.

1997's Event Horizon is another blend of science and fiction.  In science, an event horizon is basically the border around a black hole.  My high school physics teacher liked me, but not so much that I made good enough grades to understand that.  

The movie is about a rescue/recovery mission sent to a spaceship which is found orbiting Neptune.  There is no truth to the rumor that the script originally called for the ship to be orbiting Uranus, but nobody could get through the table reads without laughing.

Paramount reportedly had the director cut more than a half hour out of his film.  The resulting movie tanked at the box office but became a hit at the video stores.  When the studio came asking for the deleted footage - no doubt for a "director’s cut" version - the scenes could not be found.  Too bad they didn't care that the movie they initially had in their hands was the director's cut.

The story is scientifically complicated with stuff that I don't think is even possible, but there is a lot of action and wild visions that come from, you know, breaking the space-time continuum.  Let's drink.

As luck would have it, there was an Event Horizon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, but it appears to have fallen out of our gravitational pull.  A bottle of Pétrus that was aged for 14 months aboard the International Space Station was auctioned off for a reported cool million.  For something a little more down to earth, try Bright Cellars Dead Planets and Black Hole Pinot Grigio.  It's a California PG, so don't expect anything too transcendental. 

Escape from New York made my 1981 bearable, and I didn't even know how close I was to having my MTV.  John Carpenter directed this movie that consists of 100% attitude, mainly from Kurt Russell.  After seeing the film, I couldn’t stop saying to my friends, "The name's Plissken."  It was mighty confusing for anyone who hadn't seen the film yet.

And hey, how's this for rounding out a cast: Lee Van Cleef, Donald Pleasence, Ernest Borgnine, Isaac Hayes, Adrienne Barbeau, and Harry Dean Stanton all play parts in it.  Everyone should be all in on each of those co-stars.  And on Russell, too, of course.

For Escape From New York, let's find a wine which grew up there.  From New York's Finger Lakes region, Red Tail Ridge Winery on Seneca Lake keeps husband-and-wife team Mike Schnelle and Nancy Irelan busy.  They produce excellent Chardonnay - oaked and unoaked - along with Riesling, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Blaufränkisch.  You might not be able to resist telling folks, "The name's Blaufränkisch."

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Wednesday, September 22, 2021

Space XPA Extra Pale Ale

Los Angeles Ale Works makes beer in the L.A. suburb of Hawthorne, which also happens to be the home of SpaceX, Elon Musk's rocket company.  Considering that, it is fitting that L.A. Ale Works makes a beer called Space XPA, an Extra Pale Ale.  Of course, they also make Flight Path, Lunar Kitten and Martian Occupation, so the whole space thing must be bleeding over from just down the street.

At any rate, Space XPA has emblazoned on the can, "into the unknown."  That would be fine if we didn’t already know where we were going with a West Coast ale.  We do, though, so we are not exactly in uncharted waters.

The hops are Wakatu and Mosaic, and reports show Maris Otter as the malt.  The ale is just barely above session range, at 6.5% abv.  The retail price is listed as $16 for a 4-pack of 16-ounce cans, but I got mine a bit cheaper at my nearby Whole Foods Market.

The beer froths up with a nice, white head in the glass and it continues to lace long after the head has settled.  The nose offers up a full-on pine tree, while the palate is lighter than one would expect from a West Coast ale.  It is, however, very tasty - with a nutty flavor on the finish - and quite satisfying when the weather is warm.

Monday, September 20, 2021

Kosher Bubbles From The Russian River Valley

The Jewish High Holy Days are happening this month, which means you'll need some kosher wines.  You can always turn to Royal Wine Corporation for reliably high-quality kosher wines.  Royal is owned by the Herzog family, whose wine history dates back to the middle of the 19th century.  Royal imports and distributes kosher wines from all over the world, and they make their own at the Herzog winery in Southern California.

Herzog Special Reserve Russian River Valley Sparkling Wine

This sparkling Chardonnay is made from grapes grown in the cool-climate Russian River Valley.  The bubbles were produced through the Methode Champenoise, and the wine is kosher.  Alcohol sits at 13.5% abv and I saw it selling online for more than $50.

This pale yellow wine produces a nice, white froth when poured.  The nose has yeasty notes of citrus and stone fruit, with an earthy element that is fabulous.  The toast and earth aspects are also present on the palate.  It's a dry wine, but there is a sweetness about it that has everything to do with the fruit.  This is one California sparkling wine I could easily recommend.

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Friday, September 17, 2021

Blood Of The Vines - Trains Of Events

Pairing‌‌‌ ‌‌‌wine‌‌‌ ‌‌‌with‌‌‌ ‌‌‌movies!‌‌‌  ‌‌‌See‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌hear‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌fascinating‌‌‌ ‌‌‌commentary‌‌‌ ‌‌‌for‌‌‌ ‌‌‌these‌‌‌ ‌‌‌‌‌movies‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌many‌‌‌ ‌‌‌more‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌at‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌From‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Hell.‌‌‌  This week's trio of films takes its name from the 1949 movie, Train of Events, which tells various stories as a train hurtles toward an explosive end.  Let's get to watching and drinking before that happens to us.

1952's The Narrow Margin is a film noir lover's film noir.  A "B" movie of its day, the story is tight enough to snap and the cast is a bunch of "who are these guys?"  A dead mob boss no doubt spins in his grave as his widow takes a train from Chicago to Los Angeles to spill in front of a grand jury.  If there is spousal abuse in the afterlife, she'll probably get some.

The banter between the two cops assigned to pick up the widow at Union Station is classic film noir: "She's the sixty-cent special. Cheap. Flashy. Strictly poison under the gravy."  That makes me want to get my Thanksgiving dinner at Carl’s Jr.  The movie poster is noirish, too:  "A fortune if they seal her lips!... A bullet if they fail!"  There never seems to be enough exclamation points for a film noir one-sheet.

Margins Wine owner Megan Bell finds Central Coast vineyards that are "in the margins," over-delivering yet under-appreciated.  She started with a Carmel Valley Chenin Blanc, but her San Benito County Négrette might be better for a film noir.

Strangers on a Train is 1951 Hitchcock.  The two strangers get to know each other quickly - over drinks, naturally, a hallmark of Hitchcock movies.  Actually, the crazy man has a double while the famous tennis player orders coffee.  During the train ride, a plan is hatched for the two men to exchange murders, each doing the other's dirty work.  Things proceed to spin out of control, figuratively and literally.  

There is really a dearth of drinking in this movie, save for the dining car and a cocktail party.  It's as if Hitchcock was on the wagon while going through the list of famous writers to do his screenplay.  Most of those scripts ended up in the trash, but Raymond Chandler’s name stayed on the picture, even though his contributions were said to be largely erased from the pages.  What they would have given for just one bottle of Wite-Out.  The script was adapted from Patricia Highsmith's first novel, and whom better to check with about a talented psychopath with killing on his mind. 

We can pair a wine with Strangers on a Train in much the same way the movie pairs two strangers of different backgrounds.  Save Me, San Francisco Wine Company combines rock star (from the group Train, no less) Pat Monahan and winemaker James Foster.  Their collaborative wines bear names based on songs and albums by Train.  Bulletproof Picasso sounds like a Sauvignon Blanc over which two strangers could form a bond.

Boxcar Bertha was directed by Martin Scorsese in 1972 during producer Roger Corman’s lady gangster phase.  It was Marty's first time directing a Hollywood picture.  He did a pretty good job of it, although Corman promoted it as dripping with sex.  It isn’t, even though Playboy magazine did a spread on it upon its release.  Bertha and her boyfriend rob trains for a living.   The film puts that into perspective with a firm pro-union stance and an exploration of the plight of railroad workers.  It would seem that being robbed between stops would be one of those plights.

Here is a suitable low-budget wine for a low-budget movie - Boxcar Pinot Noir.  Apparently an Australian wine dealer has a few bottles left, at seven bucks a pop.  If you want something a little nicer, try Red Car's Box Car Pinot, from Sonoma County.

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Wednesday, September 15, 2021

DAOU Family Estates - Soul Of A Lion

The Paso Robles wine region is so often overlooked that we could excuse them if they developed a complex about it.  You could call Paso California’s "forgotten" wine region - or is that Temecula?  

Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon, for my money, gives Napa Valley a good deal of competition.  The limestone influence in the Paso dirt plays wonderfully in red wines, as well as white.  And, while Napa may be elegant, Paso has a more rustic approach which I find compelling.

Paso Robles winemaker Daniel Daou is bringing out his new Cab release this month, the 2018 Soul of a Lion, the crown jewel of DAOU Family Estates, named in honor of his father. 

Soul of a Lion puts Paso Robles on the map for world-class Cabernet Sauvignon.  It showcases Daou's vision to produce Bordeaux-style wines that combine elegance, freshness, and power.  The 2018 vintage has all the hallmarks of its cooler growing season, revealing both the power and finesse.

The winery credits DAOU Mountain's "remarkable geology, microclimate, a 2,200-foot elevation and steep slopes" for creating what they call "a jewel of ecological elements."

The 2018 Soul of a Lion was made from 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot, all grown in Paso's Adelaida District.  The wine was aged for 22 months in 100% new French oak.   Alcohol sits at 14.7% abv and the retail price tag is $150 for a 750ml bottle.

This wine is inky in the glass, with no light getting through its rich, purple shade.  The nose is a showcase for black and blue fruit, with a good deal of minerality and some nice floral notes.  A little sweet oak spice comes through as well.  On the palate, the fruit is dominant, but there is an ample sense of spice.  The tannins are quite firm upon the first pour, but they settle down after the bottle has been open for a while.  The finish is long and satisfying.  In a region which produces outstanding Cabernet blends, this is one of the better ones.


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Monday, September 13, 2021

A Kosher California Chenin Blanc

The Jewish High Holy Days happen this month, which means you'll need some kosher wines.  You can always turn to Royal Wine Corporation for reliably high-quality kosher wines.  Royal is owned by the Herzog family, whose wine history dates back to the middle of the 19th century.  Royal imports and distributes kosher wines from all over the world, and they make their own at the Herzog winery in Southern California.

Baron Herzog California Chenin Blanc 2020

Philip Herzog was the winemaker nine generations ago, when he crafted his wine for the Austro-Hungarian court.  Emperor Franz-Josef liked the juice so much that he made Phillip a baron, hence the name on the label today.

The previous vintage was sourced from the Clarksburg appellation, but this 2020 has only a California credit, so the grapes may have come from a variety of areas.  Herzog has vineyards in a number of good regions up and down California.  The 2020 Baron Herzog Chenin Blanc has an alcohol level of 11.5% abv and sells in most places for around $10.

This golden, kosher wine has a beautiful nose of flowers, apricots and citrus, with some pineapple thrown in for good measure.  There is a hint of sweet oak spice in there as well.  The palate brings the lemon and lime out front, with a stone fruit aspect as well.  The finish is medium long and maybe a bit too oaky for some, but I think it hits the right spot.  

Friday, September 10, 2021

Blood Of The Vines - Jazzed Up

Pairing‌‌‌ ‌‌‌wine‌‌‌ ‌‌‌with‌‌‌ ‌‌‌movies!‌‌‌  ‌‌‌See‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌hear‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌fascinating‌‌‌ ‌‌‌commentary‌‌‌ ‌‌‌for‌‌‌ ‌‌‌these‌‌‌ ‌‌‌‌‌movies‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌many‌‌‌ ‌‌‌more‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌at‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌From‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Hell.‌‌‌  This week we get three movies we can listen to as well as watch.  We’ll have appropriate wine pairings for these Jazzed Up films.

Round Midnight is the 1986 film about a musician who exiles himself in 1950s Paris, finding new fans and friends in the jazz scene there.  The cast - peppered with real musicians - reads like the marquee at the Blue Note.  The movie features Dexter Gordon, Herbie Hancock, John McLaughlin, Wayne Shorter, Ron Carter, Freddie Hubbard and Cedar Walton, to name more than a few of them.  Gordon plays Dale Turner, a fictional character based on real-life musicians Lester Young and Bud Powell, who were fellow ex-pats of Gordon's back in the day.

The story centers on the musician's abuse of alcohol and drugs and his efforts to escape their clutches.  All the while, the music is the most important thing in his life, more so than his family and friends who were left behind in New York, but running neck-and-neck with booze and a fix.

It's always hard for me to pair a wine with a movie about someone who abuses alcohol, but let's focus on the jazz.  I mean, what else am I going to do, say "I’ll pass on this one?"  Paso Robles winery Vines on the Marycrest has a GSM blend for $42.  It is Syrah-heavy and Grenache-light, so it should really be called an SMG.  Enjoy while watching - and listening - to these masterful jazz giants.  Just know when to stop.

All Night Long was released in the UK in 1962, although it would not hit the states until a year later.  Dave Brubeck and Charles Mingus appear in the film, although British jazzmen Tubby Hayes and John Dankworth are featured more prominently.  The lead actor is Patrick McGoohan, who would go on to be a cult favorite five years later in TV's The Prisoner.  

This movie revolves around the single night of an anniversary party, with plenty of jazz happening.  It was based upon Othello, so there is also plenty of subtext concerning relationships.  

Look to the Sierra Foothills for the wine pairing.  Jazz Cellars is in Calaveras County, California.  They have a tasting room there, but you must bring your own jumping frogs.  Choose a white wine for this B&W movie, a Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc or Marsanne/Roussanne blend should do the trick.

1979's All That Jazz was directed by dancer and choreographer Bob Fosse, who also co-wrote the script as a loosely-based autobiography.  Roy Scheider is nothing short of fantastic in the lead role of a man who is trying to edit a film and stage a musical at the same time.  The work takes its toll, and his hospital bed hallucinations set the tone for other such dream sequences that would follow through the years.  The movie views life as a series of days which start with "It’s showtime, folks!" and end in the morgue.

Pair New Zealand's All That Jazz Rosé with this movie, for the obvious reason.

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Wednesday, September 8, 2021

Rhône Wine Via Israel

The Jewish High Holy Days happen this month, which means you'll need some kosher wines.  You can always turn to Royal Wine Corporation for reliably high-quality kosher wines.  Royal is owned by the Herzog family, whose wine history dates back to the middle of the 19th century.  Royal imports and distributes kosher wines from all over the world, and they make their own at the Herzog winery in Southern California.

The 2018 Razi’el red wine blend comes from Israel's Jerusalem-Haute Judée region.  The winery is located west of the holy city in Ramat Raziel.  The name means "secret of God," but in this case, the secret is out.  It's a wonderful wine.

Razi’el was made from Rhône varieties, 60% Syrah grapes and 40% Carignan, aged for 18 months in French oak barrels.  Alcohol stands at 14% abv and I found it online selling at quite a discount, from $70 down to $50.

The Rhôn-ish nose of this dark wine delivers blackberry aromas draped in savory notes of earth and spice - forest floor, cardamom, allspice, even a bit of roasted meat.  The savory aspect really takes hold on the palate, with a beefy flavor coming through.  The tannins are firm enough, but not too firm.  The finish is long and satisfying.

Monday, September 6, 2021

Fine Wine Gets More Portable Than Ever

A new packaging format is being introduced into the single-serving wine category.  It's new to me, at least.  The containers come from Le Grand Verre and are billed as award-winning, ethically-made single-serve bottles.  

The 6.3-ounce plastic cylinders stand about eight inches tall,  have a diameter of only a little more than an inch and are topped with a screw cap.  You could stuff a lot of those into a picnic basket or backpack.  But it's not just the convenience and quantity that impresses - so does the quality.

Le Grand Verre's entire line consists of French wine from various wine regions, like Bordeaux, Languedoc, and Provence.  The company says they curate the wines every step of the way to your glass, partnering with mostly female-led boutique estates which are organic and sustainable.

The tasting samples provided to me were made up of two reds, two rosés and a white wine.

Le Grand Verre Domaine Caylus Rosé 2020

This pink wine hails from the Pays d'Herault region of southern France, a part of the larger Languedoc-Roussillon region.  LGV partnered with Inès Andrieu of Domaine de Caylus for this organic blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache.  Andrieu took over the property from her grandfather, Henri Andrieu who was in charge since buying the property in 1963.  The Domaine Caylus rosé carries alcohol at 12.5% abv and a price tag of $25 for a 4-pack.

The nose of this pale pink wine is loaded with strawberry and tropical notes.  The mouthfeel is full and the palate is earthy.  Flavors of apple, pineapple and ripe red cherry are a delight.  The acidity is somewhat tame, but the sip is juicy and the finish is very long.

Le Grand Verre Château Val D’Arenc Rosé 2020 

Bandol is generally considered to be the top Provence region for rosé, where the pinks are spicier, more structured and more flavorful than typical rosés thanks to the use of the Mourvédre grape.  This one is a critic's darling, an organic-certified Provencal blend of 80% Mourvèdre, 10% Grenache and 10% Cinsault.

The wine was produced by young, innovative winemaker Gérald Damidot, and under his leadership the estate converted to organic farming practices in 2015, bringing about an enhanced quality of the wine.  Alcohol sits at 13.5% abv and the retail is $30 for a 4-pack.

This wine is a little richer in color than a Provençal rosé, approaching the red side of pink.  The nose brings some watermelon into play with the berries and the citrus notes.  The palate shows a healthy streak of grapefruit through the melon.  Acidity is nice, and the finish is long.  This is a great rosé to pair with seafood or salads, or both.

Le Grand Verre Domaine Nadal Hainaut Red 2019 

Here is a gorgeous wine for the coming cooler weather this fall, but it takes a chill well, too - for those of us still stuck in summer.  This somewhat rustic Cabernet Sauvignon is made with organic grapes from the Domaine Nadal Hainaut estate in the Côtes Catalanes region of the Pays d'Oc IGP, which covers most of the Languedoc-Roussillon area.  The Château was built in 1826 and has belonged to the Nadal family since 1900.  Martine and Jean-Marie are currently turning over the winemaking duties to their three daughters.  This red wine's alcohol level is 13.5% abv and a 4-pack will set you back $25.

The nose and palate are both dominated by black and blue berries.  Anise aromas make an appearance as well.  The tannins are medium firm, while the acidity is quite refreshing.

Le Grand Verre Château Peyredon Red 2019 

This LGV selection comes from the Haut-Médoc Crus Bourgeois.  Laurence Dupuch of Château Peyredon Lagravette works with her husband Stephane Dupuch to produce this wine.  The fruit was picked from vines over 100 years old.  The blend was envisioned by world-famous oenologist Hubert de Bouard - winemaker and owner of Château Angelus, one of the four most prestigious Saint-Émilion estates. 

This classic Bordeaux is 63% Cabernet Sauvignon and 37% Merlot, with grapes that are sustainably farmed.  Alcohol is a restrained 13% abv and an LGV 4-pack of the canisters costs $30.

On the nose are rich blackberry, cedar, vanilla and bacon grease aromas.  The palate shows elegant dark fruit, very firm tannins and a playful acidity.  This is a wine that wants a steak next to it. 

Domaine Prataviera Sauvignon Blanc 2020

The Côtes de Gascogne region occupies France's far southwestern corner and is known primarily for the white wines produced there.  The grapes which are allowed in the region read like a list of grapes you never heard of:  Abouriou, Duras and Portugias bleu among the reds, Len de l'El, Ugni Blanc and both Mansengs - Petit and Gros - among the whites.  Of course, there are also some grapes you have heard of - Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.

The grapes at Domaine Prataviera have been grown under the female hand since 1960 - that's when Elisabeth Prataviera's mom took over from her father.  The Prataviera is 100% Sauvignon Blanc, has alcohol sitting low at 11% abv and sells for $20 in the 4-pack.

This SauvBlanc is lightly tinted and offers up a lovely nose of grapefruit and grass.  The citrus/mineral element outweighs the herbal, so it does not come off like a fully New World wine.  On the palate, the grapefruit really shines, with a full mouthfeel, an apricot note and a pretty good level of acidity.  I don’t drink a lot of Sauvignon Blanc, but when I do, it's usually French, and this wine is a perfect example of why. 

In a Zoom meeting to kick off the product, a couple of LGV bigwigs talked with a collection of wine writers.  Nicolas Deffrennes (LGV Founder) spoke about how he started LGV, with an eye towards presenting fine French wines in a format that made it easy for people to sample.  He also said that part of his innovation was to focus on female-owned and organic, sustainable wines.  He estimated that within the next couple of years, the plastic containers will be made from organic, plant-based plastic.

Deffrennes then threw it to Régis Fanget (Brand and Artistic Director) who talked about the inspiration for the pretty little bottles - cosmetics.  He said they wanted to present the wine in a physical manner that resembled the way perfume is sold.

Pauline Nadal (one of the daughters behind Le Grand Verre Domaine Nadal Hainaut Red 2019, a beautiful wine from Languedoc-Roussillon) spoke about all the animals they have on the property - sheep, swans, bees - and the importance of the animals being happy in the absence of chemicals, and the happiness of the vines themselves.  They don't irrigate the vines - she says her grandfather maintained that watering the vines made them "lazy."  

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Friday, September 3, 2021

Blood Of The Vines - Dysfunction Junction

Pairing‌‌‌ ‌‌‌wine‌‌‌ ‌‌‌with‌‌‌ ‌‌‌movies!‌‌‌  ‌‌‌See‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌hear‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌fascinating‌‌‌ ‌‌‌commentary‌‌‌ ‌‌‌for‌‌‌ ‌‌‌these‌‌‌ ‌‌‌‌‌movies‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌many‌‌‌ ‌‌‌more‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌at‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌From‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Hell.‌‌‌  This week's selections are films which offer different views of dysfunction and the corresponding unction, without compunction.  And, we'll try to find some laughs along the way. 

The 2017 Russian movie, Loveless, actually needed support from four countries, reportedly due to Russia's aggressively dim view of the director's anti-corruption stance.  The story turns on the bitterness between two separated parents.  Their only child disappears, and they are drawn together again as a search for him drags on.

The movie was compared by critics to the work of Ingmar Bergman, although there are no scenes showing death playing chess.  The parents' neglect and lovelessness spills over into every area of their separate lives.  The bleakness of their existence mirrors the bleakness of the society in which they live - if you call that living.  Their story could have been featured in "Bleak Living" magazine, if there were such a thing.

My pairing advice for Loveless might well be to simply crack open a bottle of vodka and drink heartily from it.  That does seem a bit bleak, so let's turn to Sonoma County, where the Russian River brings daily fog upstream to make it a perfect place to grow Pinot Noir grapes.  Inman Family Wines has the perfect antidote to a loveless story - their $68 Pinot called Whole Buncha Love should get you through the movie.  Buy two - you’re gonna need them.

More bleak obsession drives the 1970 British-West German collaboration, Deep End.  It's funny how bleakness seems to appear in movies which required an international effort to produce.  Unfortunately, that's about all that's funny here.  The film's main setting is a bath house where swimming and less innocent things happen.  The main character is a 15-year-old dropout who develops a crush on a woman ten years older with whom he works.  Right, he quickly gets in over his head.

Nelson Hill Winery has a line of Anderson Valley Pinot Noir which they call the Deep End, after the vineyard where the grapes are grown.  They say the wine is more beauty than brawn, which sets it apart from most other California Pinot Noirs.  

Despite his Best Actor Oscar for East of Eden, 1955's Rebel Without a Cause was James Dean's career highlight, although he didn't live to experience it.  The teenage dysfunction in Rebel centered not on inner-city kids, a popular movie theme at that time, but on teens from the suburbs - kids who had all the so-called advantages.  But, dysfunction learns to thrive in between the advantages.

The "Rebel Without a Clue" paraphrasing has been appropriated over and over again through the years.  Tom Petty, Bonnie Tyler, "Quantum Leap" and Garfield have all taken a swing at the line, for better or worse.  Clueless, Dean's character certainly is not.  You don't wear that red windbreaker without realizing you are making a statement.

Let's go to New York's Finger Lakes for the wine pairing.  Red Tail Ridge Winery makes a delightful sparkling wine - Rebel With a Cause - from Teroldego, Lagrein and Blaufränkisch grapes.  They describe it as "slightly restrained and brooding," so it's perfect to drink while watching Dean's performance.

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Wednesday, September 1, 2021

Extremely Tasty Syrah From Israel, Kosher

The Jewish High Holy Days happen in September, which means you'll need some kosher wines.  You can always turn to Royal Wine Corporation for reliably high-quality kosher wines.  Royal is owned by the Herzog family, whose wine history dates back to the middle of the 19th century.  Royal imports and distributes kosher wines from all over the world, and they make their own at the Herzog winery in Southern California.

Nana Estate Cassiopeia 2019

Nana Winery is located in the small Israeli town of Mitzpe Ramon, in the Negev Desert.  Eran Raz - his nickname is Nana - started it in 2004. He was later joined by Niv Ben Yehuda of 3 Corners Winery, who had come to the vineyard looking for grapes which represented the terroir of the desert.  Here, he found them.

The 2019 Cassiopeia was made from 85% Syrah grapes, 12% Petite Sirah and 3% Petit Verdot.  They also make a Chardonnay, a Chenin Blanc and a Cab-heavy red blend.  The Cassiopeia fruit was partially whole-cluster pressed.  The wine aged for 14 months in French oak, most of it new barrels.  Alcohol is 14.5% abv

This wine is inky dark indigo in the glass - no light gets through.  The nose is full of blackberry and cassis aromas and savory notes of leather, tobacco, cedar and a whiff of smoke.  The palate is juicy and fruity with an amazing acidity to go along with some rather firm tannins.  The savory notes stay on the finish the longest.  This will be a great wine to have with a brisket.