Priest Ranch Winemaker Cody Hurd

When you get the chance to have some very good Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, you take that opportunity. Lunch is thrown in, too? A bonus, for sure, but the wines from Priest Ranch need no justification. 

I was invited to join Priest Ranch Winemaker Cody Hurd and CEO Judd Wallenbrock for a lunch and tasting at Castaway in Burbank. They were in Southern California for Musexpo 2025. Wallenbrock told me that he likes the philosophy of Robert Mondavi, which combines wine, food and the arts into a complete and fulfilling lifestyle. It was my good fortune that he and Hurd had a couple of hours to kill between more enriching events.

Priest Ranch, they were quick to tell me, is not a religious organization. Apparently, some folks take the name literally. The winery is named after James Joshua Priest, a prospector in California's Gold Rush era. He may not have found much gold in 1869, but he did find a good patch of land. It is now called Somerston Estate, and that's where all Priest Ranch wines are grown. They date back to 2007, those wines, the inaugural vintages of Priest Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon. Hurd came along a few years later and is now crafting those wines. He shows his skill at blending with the reserve wine called James Joshua, a tip of the hat to the original landowner. It is produced only in select years and is dedicated to club members and the Yountville tasting room.

Hurd described for me the blending process, which he says can start with as many as 112 bottles open in front of him. Although he has an idea in mind along the way, he says the blend is always a mystery until it's done. Priest Ranch wines are made with minimal intervention, but with the help of today's technology. Hurd has a big hand in guiding the Priest Ranch brand. 

Does the worldwide renown of Napa Valley serve as a burden to him as he crafts his wines? Not on your life. "People ask me where I would be a winemaker if I could make wine anywhere in the world," he says. "I tell them 'I can make wine anywhere in the world, and I'm doing it right here.'"

Hurd and Wallenbrook were happy to put their Soda Valley terroir on display for me. They poured the 2023 Priest Ranch Sauvignon Blanc as an opener, then we sampled the 2022 Priest Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2019 Priest Ranch Remedy, and the 2019 Priest Ranch Snake Oil. The latter two are both Cabs. 

The Sauvignon Blanc has a bit of herbal grassiness to it, but plenty of ripe fruit to keep it fully in the California style. The wine was made from the Musqué clone, grown on a west-facing slope. A tall mountain makes the sun set early on the vineyard, producing a truly incredible acidity.

The Cabernet Sauvignon is what they call the workhorse Cab. It has a beautiful, minty nose, and 40% of the oak is French. A retail price of $60 is about half what you would expect to pay for a Napa Cab of this quality.

The 2019 Priest Ranch Remedy offers spicier notes than the workhorse.  The blend features Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Merlot. Remedy retails at $85, while the 2019 Snake Oil sells for $110. Snake Oil sports great tannic structure, so it's the one you may want to cellar, if you can resist the temptation to put a corkscrew in it.

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Kosher Chianti Classico

Italo Zingarelli bought the Le Macìe estate, in Castellina in Chianti, in the mid 1970s. He handed it down to his son Sergio, who already has the next generation busy in the growing, making, and selling of wine. 

The 2022 Rocca della Macìe Famiglia Zingarelli Chianti Classico DOCG is made from 95% Sangiovese grapes and 5% Merlot. After the wine completes malolactic fermentation, it ages in Slovenian and French oak barrels for six to ten months, then another month in the bottle. It is kosher for Passover, carries alcohol at 14.5% abv and sells for around $25.

This wine is medium dark garnet in the glass. The nose has a good supply of cherry and raspberry notes, dusted up with earth, tar and anise. The palate has a bit of licorice on it, but mainly serves as a showcase for the red fruit. There are some spicy elements, too. White pepper, nutmeg, and a very light clove sense brighten up the fruit. Tannic structure is firm and acidity refreshing. I had mine with a slow cooker red wine short rib dish, and the pairing was sublime. 

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It's Always Spring With Aviv Wine

Israel’s Galil Mountain Winery is introducing their new Aviv line of wines, a red, a white and a pink. The grapes for all three were harvested from the various estate vineyards in the Upper Galilee wine region, all three are kosher for Passover, and all three sell in the $15 range.

The 2023 Aviv Dry Rosé was made from 43% Syrah grapes, 22% Tempranillo, 20% Grenache, and 15% Barbera. Winemaker Michael Avery must have needed a passport to produce such an international wine. The grapes in the blend are more at home in France, Italy and Spain. 

The wine’s label depicts the fruit and flowers of spring, which are embodied in the wine itself. It’s only fitting, since Aviv means “spring” in Hebrew. Alcohol for this rosé is quite low, at 11% abv. Yarden Wines imports the new Aviv line to the U.S. 

This wine has a beautiful salmon color in the glass, and in the clear bottle, too. The nose displays a basket of fruit, like strawberries, cherries, berries, all quite ripe. There is also a green herbaceous quality along with the fruity nose. The palate is medium full in the mouth with red fruit and citrus minerality. The acidity is fresh and lively. It is rather bold for a rosé, only to be expected with Syrah, Tempranillo, Grenache, and Barbera.

The 2023 Aviv Dry White Wine was made from 69% Viognier grapes, 24% Sauvignon Blanc and 7% Gewurztraminer. Alcohol is 13% abv.

This wine colors up a pale yellow in the glass. There is a floral note on the nose that hits first, followed by honeydew and nectarine aromas and a hint of citrus minerality. There is an herbal, grassy feel on the palate and a nice, fresh acidity. The finish is long and leaves traces of the Sauvignon Blanc behind as a remembrance.

The 2023 Aviv Dry Red Wine was made from 86% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, 8% Merlot, and 6% Petit Verdot. Alcohol is 14% abv.

This wine has a dark purple color in the glass. The nose has an odd, medicinal smell to it, along with abundant black fruit and savory earth notes. The palate brings similar fruit flavors and a healthy dose of spice rack. Clove, cinnamon, and nutmeg appear, as do white pepper and dry mustard. The acidity is racy and the tannins are quite firm. 

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Full-Bodied Rosé From Lodi

Michael David Winery in Lodi makes plenty of wines that have eye-catchingly oddball names. Freakshow, Lust, Rapture, The Scoundrel, the list really does go on and on. Today's wine, however, is simply called Rosé.

The Phillips family has been farming Lodi dirt since the 1860s. This brilliant pink wine is made using grapes taken from the family vineyards. Syrah, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot are blended to make this wine. It is vinified and aged in stainless steel, with no oak intervention. Alcohol is at 12% abv and the retail price is $22, although my bottle was on sale at Trader Joe's for a measly six bucks. 

This wine has a bold salmon color, very rich looking. The nose offers strawberry, peach, citrus, and a touch of lanolin aromas. The palate is fruit forward, too, and carries a refreshing acidity along with it. It is great as a sipper, but pair it with salads or cheese

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Italian Merlot From Volcanic Soil

Famiglia Cotarella is in Lazio, located along the central part of the front of Italy's "boot," overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. It's where Rome is. The volcanic soils in the region is what attracted the Cotarella family to the place. They figured they could make a good Merlot from grapes grown there. And they did.

The grapes for the 2020 Cotarella Sodale Merlot were crushed on their skins for nearly two weeks. Then they were fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged in oak barrels for ten months. 

This wine is colored dark ruby and shows a ring of deep purple around the edge of the glass. The nose features plenty of ripe, red fruit and a trace of earthy salinity. On the palate, the fruit stands out, while savory oak notes, such as cedar, vanilla and tobacco, drift in towards the end of the sip. The tannins are quite firm and ready to be given a steak on which to work. The finish is lengthy and holds the savory aspect longer than the fruit. 

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St. Francis Merlot Goes Sideways

It was 20 years ago this month that the movie "Sideways" was released, unleashing a world of hurt on producers of Merlot wine. Paul Giamatti's character, a hard-core Pinot Noir lover, has a fit when the prospect of ordering Merlot in a restaurant is offered. "If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am NOT drinking any f*cking Merlot!" Well, that quote got traction and sales of Merlot wines tanked, while the sales of Pinot Noir went through the roof. 

Clearly, that character was a little too into his Pinot. Today, the sales of Merlot are still recovering. There are plenty of wineries that believe in the Merlot grape and which are producing bottles of magic with it. Sonoma County's St. Francis Winery and Vineyards is one. 

St. Francis winemaker Chris Louton says his 2021 Sonoma County Merlot "captures the depth of flavor, abundant aromas and luscious finish" that the often overlooked grape can achieve.

The grapes for this full varietal wine come from the St. Francis estate vineyards in the Sonoma and Russian River valleys, as well as from growers elsewhere in Sonoma County, like Alexander Valley and Rockpile. 

The 2021 harvest started on August 18th. Limited rainfall during the growing season produced slightly lighter crops but brought intense, concentrated flavor and color. Temperatures remained fairly even through the summer, which is good for fruit acidity, brightness and balance. The last grapes were picked in mid-October.

The St. Francis Merlot spent 14 months in French oak barrels for aging, hit an alcohol level of 14.8% abv and bears a retail price of $23. Many say it drinks well north of that price.

This wine is quite dark in the glass. The nose brings a powerful whiff of dark fruit and earth, with a hint of smoke behind it. The palate offers a rich, full mouthfeel, with flavors of plum, blackberry, and black cherry out front. There is a mineral-laden earthiness to the taste, a savory herbal streak which always attracts me. The finish is medium long and serves as a reminder of the darkness in the sip. Tannins are semi-smooth and acidity is refreshing. The alcohol certainly doesn’t seem like it's almost 15%. 

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Super Tuscan Scores In The Glass And On The Stove

Volpolo comes from Tuscany, the Bolgheri DOC, to be more precise. It is Podere Sapaio's second label. The winery was founded in the early 1990s, and the three and a half decades since then have shown the outfit to be quite adept at winemaking.

The 2022 Volpolo di Sapaio Bolgheri DOC is a Super Tuscan blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, 15% Merlot, and 15% Petit Verdot. The juice was fermented in steel tanks, aged in French oak barriques for 14 months, then given a rest in cement tanks before bottling. Alcohol tips 14.5% abv and the retail price is $36.

This wine is very dark in the glass, with almost no light getting through. The nose is full of blackberry, blueberry and plum, with savory notes of anise, black pepper, tobacco, tar and a hint of smoke joining the fruit. The palate has a savory bent as well, with spice and earth mixing in with the dark fruit flavors. The acidity is quite fresh and the tannins have a medium firm grip. I paired mine with slow cooker short ribs, and even used some in the recipe. Delicious. 

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Too Oaky? At Least This Wine Is Cheap

Here is another one of those inexpensive wines from the shelves of Trader Joe's. The 2022 Panilonco Merlot Malbec Reserva comes from the Marchigüe appellation of Chile's Colchagua Valley. The Merlot grapes are sourced from the Santa Marta vineyard while the Malbec is from the La Quebrada vineyard.

Most people who mention this wine online have some comments about the oak. I sense a lot of oak in it, although the winery says it was aged in French oak barrels for a mere six months. Alcohol is restrained, at just 13.5% abv and the cost is only $7. 

This wine has a medium-dark ruby color. The first thing I notice is the oak. It seems very oaky, despite only six months in wood. The nose offers a smokey note, which I always like to find. There are aromas of ripe cherries, berries and plums. Those fruits also appear on the palate, where oak again dominates. The tannins are firm, but not overpowering. The mouthfeel is rich and full. I had mine with a brisket sandwich and it paired very well. 

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Oakless Chianti

If all you know of Italy's Chianti region is that straw-wrapped wine bottle with the candle drippings down the side from your college dorm, you need to know more.  First of all, they dispensed with the straw baskets years ago.  Second, the area has undergone a complete transformation since those days.  It is now home to some of Tuscany's best wines.

Ruffino was founded in 1877, when cousins Ilario and Leopoldo Ruffino set up a small winery in the town of Pontassieve, near Florence.  Wine had been a thing there for ages, but the two Tuscan natives felt certain that much of the area's greatness had yet to be revealed, what with Tuscany's mineral-laden soils, the cooling influence of the Mediterranean Sea and the dry summers that wine grapes just love. 

Ruffino lays claim to being one of the first major wineries with vineyard estates in Italy's three most famous wine-producing regions – Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

The 2020 Chianti Superiore is made from 70% Sangiovese grapes and a 30% blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  Those grapes really get a chance to shine, since aging takes place in concrete and stainless steel tanks for six months, then another two months in the bottle.  Superiore serves as a sort of midpoint between the Chianti DOCG and the more complex Chianti Classico.  Alcohol ticks 13.5% abv and it generally sells for around $12.

Aromas of black cherry and dark raspberry come forth on the nose, nice and bright due to the oakless aging process. Acidity is refreshing and the tannins are firm. This is a good wine to pair with a spaghetti dinner, with or without meatballs. 

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I'll Have This Merlot Anytime

The Now And Zin Wine Country series started in 2011, with Virginia wine. In the dozen years since then I have sampled wines from 46 states. The last four - Mississippi, Oklahoma, Utah and Wyoming - have proven to be tough nuts to crack, for a variety of reasons. There are fewer opportunities in those states and shipping restrictions, to name two. I'll press on to find wines from those states, but when I get a chance to revisit a previous stop, I'll jump at the chance. Especially when it is Virginia. 

The Old Dominion State has 291 wineries, by Wine America's count. That's good enough for 6th place in the winery count. As far as wine production goes, Virginia lags a little more behind, in eighth place. 

Bluestone Vineyard was started near Bridgewater twenty or so years ago when Curt and Jackie Hartman started growing grapes to make wine for personal use. They found that once you start planting vines, what's a few thousand more? Lee Hartman is the winemaker, making it a true family operation.

The 2021 Bluestone Vineyard Shenandoah Valley Merlot has alcohol at 13.2% abv and sells for about $27.

This wine has a medium-dark purple color and a fruity nose, draped with oak spice. The blackberry and cassis aromas are joined by notes of cedar, clove, allspice, anise and a touch of smoke. The fruit-forward palate boasts a strong earthiness and a savory aspect. Tannins are firm and acidity is refreshing. The finish lasts a good long while. I like it with pork, but a nice New York strip steak is also a good pairing.

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Wine Country Virginia - Bluestone Vineyard

The Now And Zin Wine Country series started in 2011, with Virginia wine. In the dozen years since then I have sampled wines from 46 states. The last four - Mississippi, Oklahoma, Utah and Wyoming - have proven to be tough nuts to crack, for a variety of reasons. There are fewer opportunities in those states and shipping restrictions, to name two. I'll press on to find wines from those states, but when I get a chance to revisit a previous stop, I'll jump at the chance. Especially when it is Virginia. 

The Old Dominion State has 291 wineries, by Wine America's count. That's good enough for 6th place nationally in the winery count. As far as wine production goes, Virginia lags a little more behind, in eighth place. 

Bluestone Vineyard is in Bridgewater, VA, right in the middle of the Shenandoah Valley. Their name is derived from the type of limestone found in their soil. Bridgewater Crimson 2021 Virginia Red Wine is a Bordeaux-style blend of Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Alcohol rests easy at 13% abv and the retail price is just under $25.

This wine pours up purple in the glass and gives off a savory aroma package. The red fruit is heavily colored by a delicious earthiness. Oak is present, but not obvious. On the palate, there is brambly red fruit - cherries, plums, raspberries - and a fine set of tannins with zesty acidity. This is a fine food wine - I had mine with pumpkin pie - but also one that allows the sipper to ruminate on what is found there. 

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Bordeaux Grapes Via Israel

People who are looking for kosher wines should look into the lines offered by the Royal Wine Corporation. They import wines to the U.S. from all over the world and produce wines at their winery in Southern California. They have been in business for 175 years, dating back eight generations to their beginnings in Europe. Their wines are top quality, as I have found through tasting a number of their bottlings through the years.

Royal's Director of PR and Manager of Wine Education Gabriel Geller says that this year "brings an abundance of exciting releases to complement every course" of holiday meals.

Bin Nun is a new boutique Israeli winery. Winemakers Itzhak Lotan, Eddy Gandler and Danny Yaniv, under consulting winemaker Irit Boxer, work with grapes grown in well-drained clay loam soils above a limestone subsoil. Are you thinking of Bordeaux? So are they.

There is a quote from Benjamin Franklin on their website, in which he said that wine is proof that "God loves us, and loves to see us happy!" I like that thought.

The Bin Nun wines include Reserve ($39.99), Cuvée ($49.99), and Songs of Solomon ($79.99). Speaking of songs, they also have a strong connection with the world of jazz, with labels like Grappelli, Marsalis, Blue Note and Chanson. I was given a sample of the 2021 Bin Nun Judean Hills Reserve to try, which was made from 55% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, 37% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. Aging took place in French oak barrels for 12 months. This $40 bottle carries alcohol at 14% abv, it is non-mevushal and kosher for Passover.

This wine definitely feels like BDX. It is dark, it smells of the earth and it tastes like the best of the world. Aromas of black fruit are joined on the nose by tar, tobacco, vanilla, clove and cedar. The palate is also dark, boasting blackberry, blackcurrant and coffee notes. The tannins are firm and the acidity is fresh. Try it with any steak from your grill. Or just sip it. Either way, you'll be happy. 

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Bordeaux Grapes From Israel's Coolest Climate

Galilee is a highly respected wine region in Israel. Golan Heights Winery says it's the best area, and they also push their sub-region as tops. Well, it is the northernmost in the nation, and it is the coolest region. That is where the grapes for the 2022 Mount Hermon Red wine were grown. 

Golan Heights Winery's rocky volcanic soil, cool climate and high altitude estate yielded the Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec grapes that went into the 2022 Hermon Mount Hermon Red Galilee. It is kosher for Passover, has alcohol at 14% abv and sells online for less than $20.

This wine is medium dark in the glass. It has a nose which puts ripe fruit up front, with cherry, raspberry and red currant dominating. Some spice rack is present, but oaky notes are not overwhelming here. Earthiness comes on in a co-starring role, however. Red fruit is the leader on the palate, too. There is a bit more oak influence in the flavor profile, but not to a great degree. Earth and mineral notes support the fresh, fruity aspect of the wine. Tannins are medium firm and the wine is very tasty and drinkable.

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Red Blend From The Holy Land

Wine from Israel isn’t just for Jewish holy days, but here is a kosher wine from the holy land.  Carmel Winery was founded in 1882 by Baron Edmond de Rothschild, who was the owner of Château Lafite in Bordeaux.   Carmel is now under the Royal Wine Company umbrella.  The winery covers a lot of land in Israel - more than 3,000 acres of vineyards in some of the country's prime growing regions: Carmel Mountains, Upper Galilee and Judean Hills.

The 2019 Carmel Private Collection Winemakers Blend is a 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot made by Carmel's Chief Winemaker Yiftach Peretz. The wine aged for only eight months in French and American oak barrels, but it feels like a little more. The Winemakers Blend clicks 14% abv in alcohol and retails in the $15 range.

This wine is dark and offers up a nose of black cherry, cassis, licorice and a chalky, dusty note of earth. On the palate, the tannins bite a bit but the flavor is there. Dark red fruit leads the way with oak spice playing a minor role. There is a tingly acidity and the spicy finish is medium long. It is a serviceable wine, if not one to ruminate on very long.  

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Scouting Around For A Good Rosé

Every now and then, the wine world reveals a surprise to us. The bottle of rosé I opened boasted nothing more than a "California" appellation on the front label. That is usually a red flag indicating that the grapes were grown in subpar regions. On the back label, though, was a note that it was bottled in Santa Maria, CA. That happens to be one of my favorite growing regions in the state. I let my hopes get up. 

Scout Wild Rosé was founded by former lawyer Sarah Shadonix out of North Texas. Scout Wild Wines is located in Santa Maria. The wine tastes so good that I just knew there were Santa Maria grapes in there - I just knew it.

A bit of research revealed that the grapes were - as the label touts - sustainably grown, vegan friendly and gluten free. They were harvested from a place called L&P Ranch - which I could not locate - and Joe Soghomonion Farms, of Fresno. 

It was a downer to find that this wine was made from Central Valley grapes, only because I like to think I can make deductions about wines like the big sommeliers do. At least I pinpointed one of the grapes - the wine is 48% Grenache. The 48% portion of Merlot escaped me completely and the 4% splash of Valdiguié - which they call Napa Gamay - never entered my mind. Alcohol rests at 13.9% abv and it sells for $19.

This wine is a pretty light pink in the glass and has a nose which shows ripe red strawberries and cherries. A slight savory note floats in and out on the sniff. The palate is delicious - full of bright fruit - and has a bit of heft to it, along with a good slap of minerality.

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Terroir Reflected In Pure Paso Red Blend

As the name suggests, the 2020 Pure Paso Proprietary Red Blend from J. Lohr is made from all Paso Robles grapes. Anji Perry, J. Lohr's expert viticulturist and vineyard research director, cites the blend as 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Petite Sirah, 5% Petit Verdot, 2% Malbec and 1% Merlot.

Perry explains the mixture: "Savory varietal notes of Cabernet Sauvignon are layered with the dark fruit character of Petite Sirah. The bouquet of cocoa powder, caramel, and anise works in harmony with the black cherry fruit signature of this wine. Bright and focused on the palate, with a firm and appetizing finish."

The Cab came primarily from the Shotwell Vineyard in the slightly cooler El Pomar District. The Petite Sirah is from the warmer Estrella and San Miguel Districts. Aging took 18 months in American and French oak barrels. Alcohol is up there at 14.8% abv and the wine retails for $27.

This wine is very dark. It has a nose which connotes darkness as well. Aromas of black cherry lead the way with coffee notes - mocha and espresso - tagging along. The chalkiness which I find to be a hallmark of Paso Cabernet is there, although more subdued than it typically is. On the palate, that chalky atmosphere stops hiding. It is draped over black fruit with a meaty sensibility and a smoky backbeat. 

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Israeli Wine With A Touch Of Volcano

Israel's Carmel Winery launched their fine wine line two years ago. They have now expanded Carmel Signature Single Vineyards to include wine made from volcanic soil. The new Volcano series introduces a Cabernet Sauvignon and a Merlot to the winery's luxury line. The wines were both grown in an Upper Galilee vineyard that is rich in volcanic earth. Both are kosher for Passover.

The 2020 Evyatar Creek Merlot was aged for a year and a half in French oak barrels, with another year of maturation in the bottle afterward. Head winemaker Yiftah Perets says the wine was produced in a unique growing area, on the slopes of the Dalton Volcano, 2700 feet in elevation.

The nose features bright red cherry aromas along with some campfire smoke, black pepper and a minty herbal note. The medium dark wine offers a palate that is rich and dark, graced with good tannic structure, refreshing acidity and a long finish that begs for a pairing with beef, game or even a smoked cheese.

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A Twist On The Super Tuscan Recipe

San Felice is an Italian wine estate situated a half hour from Siena, in the heart of the Chianti Classico region. Their flagship wine, Vigorello, has grown and matured along with the winery. It started off in 1968, as a 100% Sangiovese wine. It was the first wine from Tuscany to incorporate international wine grapes, making Vigorello the first Super Tuscan wine. 

Today, Vigorello is crafted from 35% Pugnitello grapes, 30% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot. Pugnitello is a grape native to Tuscany. Once thought to be Montepulciano, but DNA research showed that it is its own grape. Pugnitello languished almost forgotten for years before being resurrected by studies at the University of Florence. 

The grapes sprouted early in the 2018 vintage for San Felice. A warm March and April were followed by a rainy May and the usual mix of heat and showers for the summer. September brought about sunny days and cool nights, which helped the grapes along to their proper maturity.

The fruit was vinified and aged for 24 months in French oak barriques, then aged another eight months in the bottle. Alcohol tips 14% abv while the wine retails for around $60.

Vigorello is a dark wine, allowing almost no light to pass through it. The nose holds a savory shield over the fruit aromas of plum, blackberry and raspberry. The palate is a complete joy - full of dark fruit which is colored by a rustic earthiness. The wine isn’t afraid to flex its muscles. The tannins are firm, but fine. That, plus the refreshing acidity, makes for a wine which is literally made for the dinner table.

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A Bordeaux Bargain From Between The Seas

Four generations of the Goulpier family have stood at the helm of Château Rousset Caillau since the clan gave up baking for winemaking in 1929. The estate is in the region called "Entre-Deux-Mers," which translates to "between two seas." The land on which they are located is actually an island between two estuaries, the Garonne and the Dordogne which flow through Bordeaux. 

The grapes that make up the 2020 Château Rousset Caillau Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge are 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. They were vinified in stainless steel and aged 60% in oak and 40% in those steel tanks. Alcohol tips in at 14% abv and the wine sells for about $15. I got mine on sale for a couple of bucks less.

This Bordeaux bargain pours up as a medium-dark, rich purple. The nose is rather muted, although bright cherry and cassis notes do pop through. There is also some caramel and a faint hint of funk - nothing unpleasant, just a bit off-center. The tannic grip is really firm and the fruit is tempered with a savory streak - and that ever-so-slight bit of funk. Altogether, probably not a wine I would seek out again, but it didn't sip too badly and worked great in a Sunday soup I made. 

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Not Your Usual Dessert Wine

Chateau de Beaulon has been a family-owned estate since 1712 and is now under the direction of Christian Thomas. The gothic château itself dates back a further couple of centuries, to the era of Louis XI. 

Pineau des Charentes is a style of dessert wine made in special areas of Bordeaux. It is widely known as an aperitif, but the folks at Beaulon say that's too restrictive for the many uses of their Pineau. 

The Beaulon Pineau des Charentes Rouge, made available to me, is made from Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes. It was aged for five years in oak barrels. Alcohol is fortified to 19% abv and the retail price is $25, cheap for a wine of this style and quality.

They make a white version, too, from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. The Château is also known for its cognac, made from estate-grown Folle Blanche, Colombard and Montils grapes.

This dessert wine is a deep reddish brown in color, almost a chestnut hue. The nose is aromatic and quite beautiful - brown sugar, raisins, espresso and a hint of orange peel aromas rise up from the glass. On the palate the wine is very viscous and shows distinct legs. Flavors of coffee, caramel and citrus dominate the sip. The acidity is fresh and bright, and the overall savory feel helps make this a wine that can be paired with more than just sweets.

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