Edgy, Racy Chardonnay From Burgundy

Domaine Jean Defaix, is a family estate which has crafted Chablis for 150 years in the town of Milly. The domaine is led today by Vincent and Sebastian Dampt, the grandsons of Jean Defaix, who "continue the legacy of their father, Daniel Dampt, and grandfather. Winemaker Vincent follows the family philosophy of producing fresh, lively wines with a distinctive mineral character, choosing to forgo oak in favor of preserving the intense minerality of the Chablis terroir."

The Domaine embraces sustainable vineyard practices. This Grand Vin de Bourgogne has alcohol at 12.5% abv and it retails at around $30. 

This wine is a pale straw yellow in the glass. Aromas of lemon, apple, and wet sidewalk adorn the nose. The mouthfeel is full and a striking acidity is present. The fruit appears fully on the palate, along with a strong minerality which provides the wine’s backbone. Shellfish will work here, as will any other seafood. Lemon enhancement adds to a food’s pairability with this wonderful French Chardonnay. 

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A Bargain From Beaujolais

Here's another nice value wine from Trader Joe's: the 2023 La Compagnie Beaujolaise. 

It’s made from the grape of Beaujolais Villages, Gamay. Alcohol sits at 13% abv and it was only $9

This wine is medium garnet in color. The nose is quite fruity, loaded with plum, raspberry, strawberry, cherry and licorice notes. The mouthfeel is juicy and the tannins are soft. Flavors of red and black fruit dominate the palate, while the acidity is fresh and lively. It's great with a soft cheese or pasta and olive oil. Like most of the Beaujolais I've tried, it's also a good sipper.

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Bargain Hunting For Wine At Trader Joe's - Rosé

I'm always on the lookout for wine bargains at Trader Joe's. They nearly always have a great selection of wines that are mostly dependable in quality. I spied a rosé there named La Carayon Rose. It was made in the Languedoc-Roussillon region in the south of France. 

This wine is a pale salmon in the glass, so I expected a Provencal pinkie. The nose and palate are a bit more forceful than I find in rosés from Provence. Aromas of strawberries and cherries are joined by a significant whiff of citrus minerality. The flavors are fruit forward and the acidity is brisk, if not racy. The minerals last longest on the finish. I would pair it easily with a pasta salad or chicken salad sandwich.  

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Bargain Hunting For Wine At Trader Joe's: Viognier

Here is a tribute wine which tips its cork, not to an actor, or an athlete, or a rock band. The honoree of the 2022 NDP Viognier is Notre Dame de Paris cathedral. This wine is a Pays d'Oc selection from Latitude Wines. 

The grapes in NDP are from the south of France. I apologize for not knowing more about the wine, but its info is a bit hard to come by on the internet. Alcohol is quite restrained at 13% abv and the bottle cost less than $10 at Trader Joe's.

This wine is golden in the glass. Its nose smells of honeysuckle, lemon, and lime, with a savory streak running through it all. The palate offers the fruit, followed by salinity and minerality. Acidity is pleasant, if not ripping, and a nutty flavor appears on the finish. 

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Sting Your Lips With A Picpoul

If you love exploring grapes that are new to you, you might get a kick out of a Picpoul de Pinot wine. Picpoul means "lip stinger" in French, a nickname the wine earned through its racy acidity. 

The 2023 Foncastel Picpoul de Pinot is made from 100% Picpoul grapes grown in the region of Languedoc, in the south of France. Vinification took place in steel tanks, so the wine is completely oak-free. It has alcohol at 13% abv and it runs $9 at Trader Joe's. 

This wine is golden in color. Aromas of lemons and limes dominate the mineral-laden nose. The palate offers a rippingly fresh acidity, and flavors of stone fruit and citrus appear abundantly. 

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Sincerely Sauvignon

The Mellot family has grown grapes and made wine in the Sancerre region for more than five centuries. This 2022 Joseph Mellot Sincérité Sauvignon Blanc is labeled as Vin de France, rather than Loire Valley. The VDF designation indicates that the winemaker was free to use grapes from anywhere in France, rather than be restricted to a single appellation. 

This is a full varietal wine, 100% Sauvignon Blanc grapes, but is not a Sancerre. The grapes were sourced from areas which include Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. The vintage notes describe a mild winter, an early spring, a scorching hot summer and a rainy autumn. Alcohol kicks at 12.5% abv and the retail price is only $19.

This wine is tinted pale yellow. The nose is gentle and fragrant, it does not come on strong like a New World Sauv Blanc. There is restrained minerality and a restful, floral salinity about the aromas. The palate has lemon, lime and only a hint of grapefruit up front, but all that citrus lays low and allows the smooth salinity to call its shot. Acidity is fresh, almost not noticed. I will have this as an aperitif or chilled on the porch on a hot summer day. 

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A Dry White Wine From France's Loire Valley

In one of my several visits to Baltimore I have enjoyed meals at the Thames Street Oyster House in the Fell's Point neighborhood. My wife was particularly infatuated with the place. We sat at the bar once and she ordered lobster claw after lobster claw from the iced display there. I enjoyed Muscadet wine with my seafood, and it was my introduction to the wonderful style. I owe eternal thanks to the bartender for the recommendation.

The Vignobles Lacheteau Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2022 is a dry white wine from France's Loire Valley. Muscadet Sèvre at Maine is the appellation from which the wine comes. It is south of Nantes and is marked by two rivers, the Sèvre Nantaise and the Maine. 

The wine is made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape and is created sur lie, meaning on the lees. The lees are the yeast cells that are spent during vinification. Contact with the lees gives a wine more weight and complexity. Alcohol comes in at 12% abv and the price is quite reasonable, just $7 at Trader Joe’s.

This wine has almost no coloring. Its nose is more herb-driven than mineral-driven, but there is a touch of wet sidewalk in the aromas. The palate is dry and rather flat, with only a hint of acidity. As with the smells, the flavors lean into the herbal side of the spectrum with enough minerals to make it a decent pair with shellfish. It is a pleasant enough wine, and for $7 I will not complain beyond this paragraph. I will, however, keep it in mind for when I need a dry white wine for cooking. 

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A Bargain In Chardonnay

When we talk about bargain wine, the inescapable fact is that if the wine is bad, it doesn't matter how little it costs. A bargain is no bargain if it's not something you can appreciate. I write a lot, as do many other wine writers, about good wines that don't cost an arm and a leg. Quite often, they come from a store called Trader Joe's.

The 2022 Révélation Chardonnay is made by the French winery Badet, Clément & Co. It is a Pays d'Oc IGP wine, which basically means it is from the Languedoc region. The wine is imported by Latitude Wines. Alcohol sits at 13.5% abv and the bottle cost me only $7 at TJ's. 

This wine has a lovely golden tint. Aromas of apricot, apple, pear and a very light citrus note appear in the nose. The flavors are fairly remarkable, especially for a $7 wine. Tropical notes, peach, pear and lemon-lime come forward, along with a hint of sweet oak. The acidity is zippy enough to carry a salad, seafood dish or light pasta meal. The wine finishes long and full. It is definitely a bargain wine, one reminiscent of old-line Chardonnay. 

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Not Sancerre, But Close To It

The 2023 Vignobles Lacheteau Touraine Sauvignon Blanc hails from France's Loire Valley, specifically the Touraine appellation. It is made wholly from Sauvignon Blanc grapes and imported by Plume Ridge of Claremont, CA. Alcohol hits only 11.5% abv and I bought mine for only $6 at one of my local Trader Joe's stores.

This wine has a faint yellow-green tint in the glass. The nose has abundant citrus fruit and a tad more grassiness than I expect in a Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc. Minerals appear along with tropical notes. The palate offers a brisk acidity to go with the lemon, tangerine and green apple flavors. The finish is long and mineral driven. It will match a salad or serve as counterpoint to a rich, buttery seafood or pasta dish. 

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GSM Wine From The South Of France

Badet Clément was founded in 1995 by Burgundian winemakers Laurent and Catherine Delaunay. They make a number of different lines and sell some 16 million dollars worth of their wine worldwide.

Their private label, Pontificis, is a Vin de Pays Rouge of the 2022 vintage. The grapes are 40% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 20% Mourvèdre from the Languedoc-Roussillon region, bottled under the Pays d'Oc IGP. Alcohol hits 14% abv and it costs $7 at Trader Joe's. 

This medium-dark wine offers a nose of black plums, blueberries and blackberries along with aromas of earth, tobacco, cedar, clove and nutmeg. I understand that the three segments were vinified in both barrels and tanks, with no more than six months of aging. Given that, it is understandable that oak does not take a more prominent position.

The palate is loaded with dark fruit and savory notes, and it has a firm tannic grip with lively acidity. I had it with some sautéed meatballs and Petit Basque cheese. It paired excellently. 

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French Rosé That's Easy On The Wallet

Here is a bargain rosé from the Perrin family. They have been making wine in the south of France for more than a century. They adorn the back label of their La Ferme Julien with a quote attributed to Leonardo da Vinci: "Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication." Is it really so simple? Stay away from chemical fertilizers, use natural nutrients in the soil to bring the vines to maturity, adopt a laissez-faire attitude in the cellar. Not so difficult, I suppose.

La Ferme Julien is a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault grapes, it carries alcohol at a mere 12.5% abv and I bought mine at Trader Joe's for about $7. I seem to remember the 2022 vintage was around $10, so I got quite a deal on the 2023.

This wine has a soft, light, onion skin pink hue. The nose is fresh and fruity. There is a bushel basket of strawberries in the aroma package, along with citrus minerality and that wonderful smell of rain on a hot sidewalk. The palate is dominated by the acidity, which is quite lively. Ripe red fruit is there, of course, as is a healthy dose of lemon and tangerine. The wine finishes long and the acidity keeps on working after the sip. 

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Rosé From Provence Part 2

Château La Gordonne dates back to 1652, so they must be doing something right. Their Provence rosé wines are well respected in the wine community. Nearly all the wine made in Provence is pink, so expectations are high whenever a bottle is uncorked. 

The 2023 Château La Gordonne Vérité du Terroir Tête de Cuvée Côtes de Provence Rosé was sent to me for review. With spring a reality for much of the Northern Hemisphere, it makes sense to try this wine on for size. The name, Tête de Cuvée, is French for "top blend," roughly translated. It denotes a blended wine which the maker deems to be of superior quality. Alcohol rests easy at 12.5% and the wine sells online usually for less than $20.

The wine's very Provençal color is pleasingly pink. Its nose carries a floral element along with the scent of ripe red berries and citrus. On the palate, the fruit comes first. There are also mineral notes and a nice, if not overwhelming, acidity. 

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Rosé From Provence, Because Spring, Summer

Château La Gordonne dates back to 1652, so they must be doing something right. Their Provence rosé wines are well respected in the wine community. Nearly all the wine made in Provence is pink, so expectations are high whenever a bottle is uncorked. 

The 2023 La Chapelle Tête de Cuvée Côtes de Provence Rosé was sent to me for review. With spring a reality for much of the Northern Hemisphere, it makes sense to try this wine on for size. The name, Tête de Cuvée, is French for "top blend," roughly translated. It denotes a blended wine which the maker deems to be of superior quality. Alcohol rests easy at 12.5% and the wine sells online usually for between $25 and $30.

This Grenache-based wine has a lovely, light pink hue, very Provencal. The nose carries aromas of sweet grapefruit, lemons and ripe strawberries. The palate brings an acidity that is fresh and lively. Red fruit and citrus notes come through nicely. When I think of rosé, this is the sort of wine that is in my thoughts. This is what I want in my glass all summer. 

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Bubbles From Burgundy

You likely know that Crémant is a French sparkling wine made in exactly the same way that Champagne is made, only in a region other than Champagne. That's not the only difference, though. Crémant also often utilizes different grapes than those favored in Champagne: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. 

A Crémant from Alsace may use Pinot Blanc, while one made in the Loire Valley may use Chenin Blanc and one from Burgundy may use Gamay. Here, though, is a Burgundian Crémant which relies on the tried and true grapes of Champagne.

The Albert Bichot Crémant  de Bourgogne Brut Reserve has a blend of 60% Chardonnay grapes and 40% Pinot Noir. The fruit was grown in Beaune, in the areas of Châtillonnais, Côte Chalonnaise & Mâconnais. 

Fifteen percent of the cuvée was aged for six months in oak and the remainder in stainless steel tanks. That’s the standard for reserve sparkling wines at Bichot. The regular stuff only needs 10% of the cuvée aged in wood. After the tank or barrel aging, the wine rests for another 18 to 20 months in the bottle. Alcohol sits at a very Champagne-like 12.5%, but it sells for around $25.

This wine offers plenty of bubbles, which dissipate quickly. The golden wine that remains has aromas of various citrus fruits, dried apricots, minerality and yeasty notes. The palate is savory and toasty, with a good level of acidity. The finish is lengthy, which is a good thing since is tastes so good. 

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How Do You Pronounce Touraine Oisly

The Loire Valley is known in some circles as "the Garden of France." The beautiful area has four distinct wine regions: Pays Nantais, Anjou, Saumur, and Touraine. Each region has its own grapes, appellations and styles. Along the banks of the Loire river are more than 3,000 wineries, more than 103,000 acres of vineyards, 33 appellations of origin and 1 protected geographical indication.

French wine appellations have a reputation for being difficult to pronounce, especially for beginners who don't happen to be French. But even wine lovers with a long Gallic history can have trouble handling the names of the Loire. 

That is why Loire Valley Wines has teamed up with Katie Melchior (also known as @FrenchWineTutor) to create an audio guide to 10 appellations in the Loire Valley.

Just download this infographic map, open in Adobe Acrobat and click the audio icons to hear French pronunciations of 10 appellations on the Loire Valley map, read by Katie herself.

Here is an example of a region that many people might find difficult to pronounce: Touraine Oisly - two-rain owelly. This is a subregion of the Touraine appellation, centered around the town of Oisly. The climate is semi-continental, with drier summers and colder winters than in other areas of the Touraine. The soils are sand over clay, which is the right soil for the Sauvignon grape, which is all they grow in these 50 acres of vineyards.

Raphaël Midoir carries on in his family's tradition as he walks the paths between the vines as four generations have done before him. Alcohol sits at 14.1% abv and the price is less than $20. 

This 2018 Raphaël Midoir Touraine Oisly La Plaine des Cailloux looks beautiful in the glass, with a rich golden color suggesting either age or sweetness. It is definitely not a dessert wine, so it is possible that the five years are showing in the color. However, it is said that the golden color is an identifying feature of wines from the Touraine Oisly. The palate is full of apples and flowers, while the palate has a savory presentation of citrus, apricot and a hint of grapefruit. It is definitely an old world Sauvignon Blanc, with all the elegance that implies. 

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How Do You Pronounce Jasnieres?

The Loire Valley is known in some circles as "the Garden of France." The beautiful area has four distinct wine regions: Pays Nantais, Anjou, Saumur, and Touraine. Each region has its own grapes, appellations and styles. Along the banks of the Loire river are more than 3,000 wineries, more than 103,000 acres of vineyards, 33 appellations of origin and 1 protected geographical indication.

French wine appellations have a reputation for being difficult to pronounce, especially for beginners who don’t happen to be French. But even wine lovers with a long Gallic history can have trouble handling the names of the Loire. 

That is why Loire Valley Wines has teamed up with Katie Melchior (also known as @FrenchWineTutor) to create an audio guide to 10 appellations in the Loire Valley.

 Just download this infographic map, open it in Adobe Acrobat and click the audio icons to hear French pronunciations of 10 appellations on the Loire Valley map, read by Katie herself.

Here is an example of a region that many people might find difficult to pronounce: Jasnières - zhan-yare. This is a tiny appellation, one that once yielded wines that were chosen by a king - Henry IV. Today, fewer than 200 acres of vines remain. Janières is in the northernmost part of the Loire Valley, and so it is also the coldest part.

Pascal Janvier has taken the reputation of Jasnières to heart. The butcher-turned-winemaker is passionate about his wines, and his care shows in the juice.

Two of Janvier's wines are imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. After tasting one of them for the first time and marveling to myself about how good it was, I turned the bottle around and saw Lynch's name on the back label. "But of course," I thought, "it's a Lynch selection." Always a delight. 

The 2022 Pascal Janvier Jasnières is a white wine made from Chenin Blanc grapes. It is fermented and aged for a few months in stainless steel tanks. Alcohol is restrained at 13.5% abv and the wine sells for about $24.  

This wine has a beautiful golden hue and a complex nose. There are notes of guava, white flowers, lime and a soapy streak of salinity. The acidity is bracing. On the palate citrus minerals and an earthy aftertaste, almost soft despite the razor-sharp acidity. Get this for your shellfish, and don't be selfish. Share. 

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How Do You Pronounce Saumur Champigny?

The Loire Valley is known in some circles as the "Garden of France" The beautiful area has four distinct wine regions: Pays Nantais, Anjou, Saumur, and Touraine. Each region has its own grapes, appellations and styles. Along the banks of the Loire river are more than 3,000 wineries, more than 103,000 acres of vineyards, 33 appellations of origin and 1 protected geographical indication.

French wine appellations have a reputation for being difficult to pronounce, especially for beginners who don’t happen to be French. But even wine lovers with a long Gallic history can have trouble handling the names of the Loire. 

That is why Loire Valley Wines has teamed up with Katie Melchior (also known as @FrenchWineTutor) to create an audio guide to 10 appellations in the Loire Valley.

Just download this infographic map, open in Adobe Acrobat and click the audio icons to hear French pronunciations of 10 appellations on the Loire Valley map, read by Katie herself.

Here's an example of a region that many people might find difficult to pronounce: Saumur Champigny. I could tell you it is spoken like saw-MYUR sham-pin-YEE, but it's a lot more fun to hear Katie say it.

The 2018 Domaine Filliatreau (fee-illa-TRO) Vieilles Vignes comes from Saumur Champigny, where the Filliatreau family has been making wine for generations. The Cabernet Franc grapes for this wine came from vines which are 50 to 100 years old. The wine was vinified in stainless steel tanks rather than oak barrels and aged in those tanks for one year. Alcohol clocks in at 14.5% abv and the wine's retail price averages about $28 online.

This Cabernet Franc wine is dark in color, as well as in smell and taste. The aromas are in the red fruit area, but a bit on the dark side. Cherry, black cherry, raspberry and black pepper come forth persistently. On the palate, the darkness continues. Cherry and cassis are joined by herbs and spices and a firm tannic structure. This is a wine that was made to pair with lamb, or so it seems, anyway. By the way, it was vinified and aged completely in stainless steel. 

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Pink Wine From Provence

If spring and summer are the times for rosé wine, then let us uncork and pour something pink. If it is to be pink wine you seek, your search probably starts in the south of France, in Provence, where rosé is the name of the game.

BY.OTT Rosé Côtes de Provence 2022 is made by Domaines Ott, crafting brilliant rosé since 1912. This pink wine utilizes grapes sourced from Château de Selle and Clos Mireille, two of Ott's three estates in Provence. The wine is made under the supervision of fourth-generation winemaker Jean-Francois Ott, blended and bottled in the de Selle winery cellar. BY.OTT is a blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah grapes. It is imported by Maisons Marques & Domaines USA of Oakland. Alcohol sits at 13% abv and the retail price is $27. That price tag may seem a bit steep for a rosé, but you pay a little extra for a bottle of the Provençal sunshine. 

This pale pink wine shows aromas of lemon, strawberry, cherry and minerals on the nose. The palate is full of bright red fruit, citrus, watermelon and a hint of cinnamon. There is a racy acidity present, which puts this wine squarely in the "food friendly" category. The sip finishes on a slightly tart note, which plays into the food friendliness a little more.

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A Hearty Rosé From Tavel

If you love rosé and you don't know Tavel, you should correct that problem immediately. Tavel is a region in France's Rhône Valley. It is known for its rosé wines - in fact, that's all that is produced there. It is the only wine appellation in the Rhône Valley which makes nothing but pink wine.

The 2020 Réserve des Chastelles Tavel Rosé is likely made from Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Carignan, although details on this particular wine are a little hard to find. It was made by negotiant Vignobles & Compagnie and imported by Plume Ridge of Claremont, California. Alcohol tips 13.5% abv and I got mine for $9 at Trader Joe's - a distinctly good deal for a Tavel rosé. Prices in Tavel generally start at twice that amount.

The wine comes in a clear bottle, the better to show off its deep, rich color. The wine pours up much darker than a rosé from, say, Provence. Additional skin contact for the grapes gives the wine a beautiful hue which ranges from an almost magenta shade to hints of tomato red and salmon. Rolled into one descriptor, we can call it copper colored. The nose gives up some luscious strawberry and cherry aromas with traces of citrus, minerals and spice also present. There is a lot of flavor to be had on the palate - red fruit, a touch of tobacco, some melon, allspice, and even ginger. This is a very complex wine, and it has a nice tannic grip, too. You can use this Tavel in place of a red, while other rosés can only stand in for a white wine.

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CAMUS Cognac

CAMUS was founded in 1863 and has been led by five generations of family members who keep the family's commitment to craftsmanship and tradition, while producing what they consider to be the best Cognac in the world.

Cyril Camus has been the company's chief since 2004. He has overseen a strategy begun by his father, Jean-Paul Camus, to extend the estate within the smallest and rarest of the six crus of the Cognac AOC – Borderies. Today, CAMUS is one of the largest landowners in this cru.

CAMUS boasts that they select only the finest vines for use in making their eaux-de-vie. The must is kept unfiltered of its lees to extract the most intense aromatic components. Distillation is exclusively performed by hand in small copper pot stills to preserve the most aromatic elements. The patented technique, called   "Instensity," consists of manually selecting the best aromatic qualities. This unique method, along with aging in smaller, lightly toasted fine grain French Oak barrels, differs from the standard process used by other houses. Thanks to the high concentration of esters, the fruity and floral aromas are incredibly powerful and distinctive in all cognac blends. 

I usually keep my tasting in the realm of wines, but I was given a bottle of CAMUS VSOP to sample. It is a very aromatic Cognac with a high quantity of terpenes (the compounds that give plants their aromas). That creates deep, elegant notes of white flowers and citrus blossoms. 

The tasting experience was great. CAMUS VSOP is indeed a special cognac. Alcohol content is 40% abv (80 proof) and the bottle sells for just under $60. 

 

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