Gerard Bertrand In Los Angeles

A two-part event happened in April at a fancy hotel on the Sunset Strip in Los Angeles. The featured star of the afternoon was Gerard Bertrand, pitured at left. He not only brought his personable self to to the Golden State, he also brought his wines.

Part One was a walk-around exploration of some of his lower-priced bottles. These everyday wines, although priced in the $20-$30 range, are every bit as elegant as his top-shelf stuff. Those top-shelf wines were featured in Part Two, which was a seated tasting with Bertrand leading the audience through the menu.

New Wave, the first part, gave the crowd a sample of Bertrand's newer creations, heavy on the trendier items like rosés, orange wines and lighter reds. These wines were all fine examples of how younger wine drinkers can experience wines with a premium feel without dipping into next month's rent.

The Garrigue line is named for Mediterranean shrubs and aromatic herbs which grow alongside the vineyards in Bertrand's Languedoc region. This red, the darkest of the reds sampled, contains Grenache Noir, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. The wine is full of ripe red fruit, wonderful spices, and earth. The firm tannins are joined by a fresh acidity. $20.

La Grande Bleue brings to mind the water bordering the south of France. This white wine has a floral salinity and is light, fresh, and breezy. The grapes are Vermentino (Rolle), Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon. $20.

Orange Gold was my favorite of the walk-around tour. The nose is complex and sweet, with notes of flowers and dried apricots. The palate makes a 180, turning in savory apricot, lemon acidity and salinity. Chardonnay, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Gewürztraminer, and Muscat are the varieties in play. $25.

So'Vive contains Sauvignon, so we expect a bit of grassiness. The Muscat Petits Grains brings a sweet edge to the wine, with low acidity and big minerals. $18

Le Chouchou is a light red wine which finds Bertrand collaborating with his daughter, Emma. This Syrah, Grenache, and Cinsault blend has alcohol at a modest 11%. The color is light, the nose is full of earthy red fruit and the tannins are soft. It's a wine that is very easy to drink. $22.

Trouble comes in three styles: red, pink, and white. It is a slightly fizzy wine, with vibrant fruit, nice acidity, and a bit of earthiness. $25.

Gris Blanc is Grenache rosé, heavy on the minerals with a medium acidity. Rouge Clair, also Grenache, has a bit more color but is still lightly tinted. $17.

French Cancan is a sparkling wine, a Brut Nature Orange, full of red fruit, minerals and toast. $25-$30. 

Part Two of the event covered the essence of Bertrand's new book, Multidimensional Wine. Here, we were treated to Bertrand's philosophy of winemaking. He endeavors to separate everyday wines from those that have a message, and the message is terroir.

Despite Bertrand's wine heritage, he said that he was inspired at the young age of 23 by none other than Robert Mondavi. He has taken that inspiration into a new world of wine, in which he says "organic and biodynamic vineyard practices deliver the footprint of the vintage." Probably the most salient nugget he offered was that "In this crazy world now, we need more wine." I couldn't agree more.

Castellum Sauvignon Blanc 2022 - This wine was Bertrand's example of a quest for excellence. The pretty yellow tint is inviting enough, but this is a very different Sauvignon Blanc. There is no typical "Sauvignon" smell and the palate is savory, yet brimming with yellow fruit. An eye-opener at $35. 

Domaine de l'Aigle Chardonnay 2022 - Bertrand offered this wine to illustrate how changing harvest dates, vinification and maturation, just a little, can make a big difference. This tastes like no other Chardonnay I have ever had. A very savory nose leads to an extremely earthy Chardonnay, a departure from what is expected from the variety. $35.

Château l'Hospitalet Grand Vin Rouge 2021 - This delicious red wine displays the notion that poor soil depends on August rain. The fruit is chalked up by the limestone dirt of La Clape, and the resulting minerality, acidity, and fine tannins are a delight. $50.

Cigalus Rouge 2021 - Bertrand cites that in conventional agriculture, there are 1000 ways micro-organisms affect grapes, 1500 in grapes grown organically. Soils cultivated biodynamically are affected 47,000 different ways. Here's to biodynamic farming. This wine is all about the savory. $56. 

Clos du Temple 2022 - This light, yellow gold rosé has savory strawberry notes and a savory streak that makes it a great pair with caviar. French, caviar, of course. It is all about the sense of place. $195.

Clos d'Ora 2017 - Blending is what Bertrand calls "the pinnacle, the ultimate act" of winemaking. He calls Clos d'Ora a sanctuary, where four great grapes grow in the merging area of mineral, vegetable and animal. If you're blending, do it with the best grapes. $250.

Villa Soleilla 2020 - Who wants to take on an 8000 year-old winemaking tradition started by the ancient Georgians? Gerard Bertrand, that's who. This brilliant orange wine smells of honeyed apricot and has a slightly bitter taste, but it is opulent. We paired it with three different cheeses. The cheeses were jealous of the wine. $195.

I should make it clear that Bertrand's wines from the south of France have long been favorites of mine, and this event only served to bolster that feeling. If you are interested, buy his book. If you buy his wines, he'll be happy with that, too. 

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More Grenache In This GSM, But Just Barely

We are looking today at another bargain wine from Trader Joe's, where shoppers can find plenty of really decent wines at a low cost. The 2023 Ténèbres GSM comes from the Pays d'Oc IGP, which covers a good part of the Languedoc-Roussillon region in the southeast part of France. 

The three grape varieties of a GSM are split fairly evenly: 34% Grenache, 33% Syrah, and 33% Mourvèdre. The low cost I mentioned is just $6 and the alcohol content is 13.5% abv. 

This wine is very dark in the glass. The nose is quite aromatic, with aromas of blackberry, plum, cinnamon, and vanilla coming through. It is the oak spice which dominates the bouquet, however. The palate displays plenty of oak, too, but with jammy, dark, fruit notes to help distract us from the aging process. Tannins are firm enough to pair with whatever beef you like. 

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A French Wine For Less Than $10

Imagine my surprise when I stumbled across a selection of Esprit Cépage wines at my local Whole Foods Market, selling for less than $10. The 2023 Esprit Cépage Blanc is the one I picked up. I’ll probably try the Rouge soon. It's only a dollar more.

The Blanc is made from organic grapes, which are not identified by variety on the label. It is labeled as a Vin de France, the designation which replaced Vin de Table in 2010. There is no specific appellation other than it comes from France as an ordinary, everyday wine. It's a lot like the "California" appellation on a California wine. Sure it's from California, but where? The alcoholic content is 13.5% abv and I paid only $8.

This wine, I believe, is a Grenache Blanc. Some of the info I found online suggested that, and my taste buds agree. If there is a little Sauvignon Blanc in there, I would not be surprised. However, the yellow tint in the glass suggests GB. The nose brings citrus aromas along with apple notes. The palate is rather racy in the acidity department, and the finish leaves stone fruit, lemons, and limes lingering. It's an enjoyable wine and a likely pair with some sort of seafood or salad.

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Red Rhône Blend

Domaine Guigal was founded by Etienne, furthered by son Marcel and now his son, Phillippe, represents the third generation toiling in the Côte Rôtie appellation of the Rhône Valley. It is, as they say, une affaire de famille. 

The 2020 Guigal Cotes du Rhône is a blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvdère from the southern Rhône Valley, grown in various types of soil, featuring sediment, limestone, and granite. The vines average 35 years in the ground. After vinification, the wine spent a year and a half in oak. Alcohol hits 15% abv and the bottle cost me $20, at my local supermarket.

This wine is inky dark in the glass. The nose sports aromas of blackberry, plum, and currant, with notes of sweet oak spice, white pepper, and a bit of anise. There is also a tarry sensation in the bouquet. The palate displays all the fruit you can handle, along with some of that oak. The tannic grip is fairly intense upon opening and should be left to breathe a bit before serving. It is a great pairing with any kind of fatty beef. 

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Long Live This Loire Valley Rosé

While searching for bargain wines at Trader Joe's I came across a rosé that I had never noticed before. The Vive La Loire! Touraine Rosé blend appears to be a non-vintage wine from the Loire Valley, specifically the Touraine region. 

The organic blend is about half and half Gamay and Cöt, a tad heavier on the Gamay. The grape description is interesting in that Gamay is usually associated with the Beaujolais region, and the use of the name Cöt, for Malbec, is generally found in the southwest part of France. Plus, I don't remember ever having a rosé wine made from Malbec. This one's exciting!

The alcohol level is perfect for a pink wine, 12% abv. The price isn't bad, either. At $12, it's a little steeper than most other rosés at Trader Joes. 

This wine has a beautiful salmon orange color in the glass, almost a copper shade. Big red fruit aromas decorate the nose, with a hint of orange peel thrown into the mix. The palate also shows that red fruit, in a big way. Cherry, strawberry, and red vines combine for a bold and complex profile. The acidity is fresh, but not bracing. This wine will be a good sipper during the spring and summer months. 

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You Had Me At Vouvray

I was bargain hunting at Trader Joe's again, which is a great place to go bargain hunting. The 2023 Vignobles Lacheteau Vouvray caught my eye, as it has before. Any time I see Vouvray on a wine label, my eye is caught. 

The French region of Vouvray is in the Loire Valley, or white wine heaven if you prefer. The main grape there is the Chenin Blanc, which is what makes up this interesting vin blanc. Alcohol is quite restrained, at 11% abv, and it sells for less than $10 at Trader Joe's. I hope they keep it in stock, because I have a spicy shrimp dish on my radar for the coming week. 

This wine has a straw-yellow color in the glass. Its nose shows aromas of stone fruit, like peach, apricot, and white nectarine. There is also a hint of Meyer lemon in the sniff. The palate is just creamy goodness. The fruit flavors are joined by a savory minerality and salinity, which is overpoweringly wonderful. The acidity is fresh, but not razor sharp. Pair it with a spicy dish and thank me later. Spicy seafood would be perfect.  

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Edgy, Racy Chardonnay From Burgundy

Domaine Jean Defaix, is a family estate which has crafted Chablis for 150 years in the town of Milly. The domaine is led today by Vincent and Sebastian Dampt, the grandsons of Jean Defaix, who "continue the legacy of their father, Daniel Dampt, and grandfather. Winemaker Vincent follows the family philosophy of producing fresh, lively wines with a distinctive mineral character, choosing to forgo oak in favor of preserving the intense minerality of the Chablis terroir."

The Domaine embraces sustainable vineyard practices. This Grand Vin de Bourgogne has alcohol at 12.5% abv and it retails at around $30. 

This wine is a pale straw yellow in the glass. Aromas of lemon, apple, and wet sidewalk adorn the nose. The mouthfeel is full and a striking acidity is present. The fruit appears fully on the palate, along with a strong minerality which provides the wine’s backbone. Shellfish will work here, as will any other seafood. Lemon enhancement adds to a food’s pairability with this wonderful French Chardonnay. 

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A Bargain From Beaujolais

Here's another nice value wine from Trader Joe's: the 2023 La Compagnie Beaujolaise. 

It’s made from the grape of Beaujolais Villages, Gamay. Alcohol sits at 13% abv and it was only $9

This wine is medium garnet in color. The nose is quite fruity, loaded with plum, raspberry, strawberry, cherry and licorice notes. The mouthfeel is juicy and the tannins are soft. Flavors of red and black fruit dominate the palate, while the acidity is fresh and lively. It's great with a soft cheese or pasta and olive oil. Like most of the Beaujolais I've tried, it's also a good sipper.

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Bargain Hunting For Wine At Trader Joe's - Rosé

I'm always on the lookout for wine bargains at Trader Joe's. They nearly always have a great selection of wines that are mostly dependable in quality. I spied a rosé there named La Carayon Rose. It was made in the Languedoc-Roussillon region in the south of France. 

This wine is a pale salmon in the glass, so I expected a Provencal pinkie. The nose and palate are a bit more forceful than I find in rosés from Provence. Aromas of strawberries and cherries are joined by a significant whiff of citrus minerality. The flavors are fruit forward and the acidity is brisk, if not racy. The minerals last longest on the finish. I would pair it easily with a pasta salad or chicken salad sandwich.  

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Bargain Hunting For Wine At Trader Joe's: Viognier

Here is a tribute wine which tips its cork, not to an actor, or an athlete, or a rock band. The honoree of the 2022 NDP Viognier is Notre Dame de Paris cathedral. This wine is a Pays d'Oc selection from Latitude Wines. 

The grapes in NDP are from the south of France. I apologize for not knowing more about the wine, but its info is a bit hard to come by on the internet. Alcohol is quite restrained at 13% abv and the bottle cost less than $10 at Trader Joe's.

This wine is golden in the glass. Its nose smells of honeysuckle, lemon, and lime, with a savory streak running through it all. The palate offers the fruit, followed by salinity and minerality. Acidity is pleasant, if not ripping, and a nutty flavor appears on the finish. 

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Sting Your Lips With A Picpoul

If you love exploring grapes that are new to you, you might get a kick out of a Picpoul de Pinot wine. Picpoul means "lip stinger" in French, a nickname the wine earned through its racy acidity. 

The 2023 Foncastel Picpoul de Pinot is made from 100% Picpoul grapes grown in the region of Languedoc, in the south of France. Vinification took place in steel tanks, so the wine is completely oak-free. It has alcohol at 13% abv and it runs $9 at Trader Joe's. 

This wine is golden in color. Aromas of lemons and limes dominate the mineral-laden nose. The palate offers a rippingly fresh acidity, and flavors of stone fruit and citrus appear abundantly. 

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Sincerely Sauvignon

The Mellot family has grown grapes and made wine in the Sancerre region for more than five centuries. This 2022 Joseph Mellot Sincérité Sauvignon Blanc is labeled as Vin de France, rather than Loire Valley. The VDF designation indicates that the winemaker was free to use grapes from anywhere in France, rather than be restricted to a single appellation. 

This is a full varietal wine, 100% Sauvignon Blanc grapes, but is not a Sancerre. The grapes were sourced from areas which include Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. The vintage notes describe a mild winter, an early spring, a scorching hot summer and a rainy autumn. Alcohol kicks at 12.5% abv and the retail price is only $19.

This wine is tinted pale yellow. The nose is gentle and fragrant, it does not come on strong like a New World Sauv Blanc. There is restrained minerality and a restful, floral salinity about the aromas. The palate has lemon, lime and only a hint of grapefruit up front, but all that citrus lays low and allows the smooth salinity to call its shot. Acidity is fresh, almost not noticed. I will have this as an aperitif or chilled on the porch on a hot summer day. 

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A Dry White Wine From France's Loire Valley

In one of my several visits to Baltimore I have enjoyed meals at the Thames Street Oyster House in the Fell's Point neighborhood. My wife was particularly infatuated with the place. We sat at the bar once and she ordered lobster claw after lobster claw from the iced display there. I enjoyed Muscadet wine with my seafood, and it was my introduction to the wonderful style. I owe eternal thanks to the bartender for the recommendation.

The Vignobles Lacheteau Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2022 is a dry white wine from France's Loire Valley. Muscadet Sèvre at Maine is the appellation from which the wine comes. It is south of Nantes and is marked by two rivers, the Sèvre Nantaise and the Maine. 

The wine is made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape and is created sur lie, meaning on the lees. The lees are the yeast cells that are spent during vinification. Contact with the lees gives a wine more weight and complexity. Alcohol comes in at 12% abv and the price is quite reasonable, just $7 at Trader Joe’s.

This wine has almost no coloring. Its nose is more herb-driven than mineral-driven, but there is a touch of wet sidewalk in the aromas. The palate is dry and rather flat, with only a hint of acidity. As with the smells, the flavors lean into the herbal side of the spectrum with enough minerals to make it a decent pair with shellfish. It is a pleasant enough wine, and for $7 I will not complain beyond this paragraph. I will, however, keep it in mind for when I need a dry white wine for cooking. 

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A Bargain In Chardonnay

When we talk about bargain wine, the inescapable fact is that if the wine is bad, it doesn't matter how little it costs. A bargain is no bargain if it's not something you can appreciate. I write a lot, as do many other wine writers, about good wines that don't cost an arm and a leg. Quite often, they come from a store called Trader Joe's.

The 2022 Révélation Chardonnay is made by the French winery Badet, Clément & Co. It is a Pays d'Oc IGP wine, which basically means it is from the Languedoc region. The wine is imported by Latitude Wines. Alcohol sits at 13.5% abv and the bottle cost me only $7 at TJ's. 

This wine has a lovely golden tint. Aromas of apricot, apple, pear and a very light citrus note appear in the nose. The flavors are fairly remarkable, especially for a $7 wine. Tropical notes, peach, pear and lemon-lime come forward, along with a hint of sweet oak. The acidity is zippy enough to carry a salad, seafood dish or light pasta meal. The wine finishes long and full. It is definitely a bargain wine, one reminiscent of old-line Chardonnay. 

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Not Sancerre, But Close To It

The 2023 Vignobles Lacheteau Touraine Sauvignon Blanc hails from France's Loire Valley, specifically the Touraine appellation. It is made wholly from Sauvignon Blanc grapes and imported by Plume Ridge of Claremont, CA. Alcohol hits only 11.5% abv and I bought mine for only $6 at one of my local Trader Joe's stores.

This wine has a faint yellow-green tint in the glass. The nose has abundant citrus fruit and a tad more grassiness than I expect in a Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc. Minerals appear along with tropical notes. The palate offers a brisk acidity to go with the lemon, tangerine and green apple flavors. The finish is long and mineral driven. It will match a salad or serve as counterpoint to a rich, buttery seafood or pasta dish. 

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GSM Wine From The South Of France

Badet Clément was founded in 1995 by Burgundian winemakers Laurent and Catherine Delaunay. They make a number of different lines and sell some 16 million dollars worth of their wine worldwide.

Their private label, Pontificis, is a Vin de Pays Rouge of the 2022 vintage. The grapes are 40% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 20% Mourvèdre from the Languedoc-Roussillon region, bottled under the Pays d'Oc IGP. Alcohol hits 14% abv and it costs $7 at Trader Joe's. 

This medium-dark wine offers a nose of black plums, blueberries and blackberries along with aromas of earth, tobacco, cedar, clove and nutmeg. I understand that the three segments were vinified in both barrels and tanks, with no more than six months of aging. Given that, it is understandable that oak does not take a more prominent position.

The palate is loaded with dark fruit and savory notes, and it has a firm tannic grip with lively acidity. I had it with some sautéed meatballs and Petit Basque cheese. It paired excellently. 

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French Rosé That's Easy On The Wallet

Here is a bargain rosé from the Perrin family. They have been making wine in the south of France for more than a century. They adorn the back label of their La Ferme Julien with a quote attributed to Leonardo da Vinci: "Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication." Is it really so simple? Stay away from chemical fertilizers, use natural nutrients in the soil to bring the vines to maturity, adopt a laissez-faire attitude in the cellar. Not so difficult, I suppose.

La Ferme Julien is a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault grapes, it carries alcohol at a mere 12.5% abv and I bought mine at Trader Joe's for about $7. I seem to remember the 2022 vintage was around $10, so I got quite a deal on the 2023.

This wine has a soft, light, onion skin pink hue. The nose is fresh and fruity. There is a bushel basket of strawberries in the aroma package, along with citrus minerality and that wonderful smell of rain on a hot sidewalk. The palate is dominated by the acidity, which is quite lively. Ripe red fruit is there, of course, as is a healthy dose of lemon and tangerine. The wine finishes long and the acidity keeps on working after the sip. 

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Rosé From Provence Part 2

Château La Gordonne dates back to 1652, so they must be doing something right. Their Provence rosé wines are well respected in the wine community. Nearly all the wine made in Provence is pink, so expectations are high whenever a bottle is uncorked. 

The 2023 Château La Gordonne Vérité du Terroir Tête de Cuvée Côtes de Provence Rosé was sent to me for review. With spring a reality for much of the Northern Hemisphere, it makes sense to try this wine on for size. The name, Tête de Cuvée, is French for "top blend," roughly translated. It denotes a blended wine which the maker deems to be of superior quality. Alcohol rests easy at 12.5% and the wine sells online usually for less than $20.

The wine's very Provençal color is pleasingly pink. Its nose carries a floral element along with the scent of ripe red berries and citrus. On the palate, the fruit comes first. There are also mineral notes and a nice, if not overwhelming, acidity. 

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Rosé From Provence, Because Spring, Summer

Château La Gordonne dates back to 1652, so they must be doing something right. Their Provence rosé wines are well respected in the wine community. Nearly all the wine made in Provence is pink, so expectations are high whenever a bottle is uncorked. 

The 2023 La Chapelle Tête de Cuvée Côtes de Provence Rosé was sent to me for review. With spring a reality for much of the Northern Hemisphere, it makes sense to try this wine on for size. The name, Tête de Cuvée, is French for "top blend," roughly translated. It denotes a blended wine which the maker deems to be of superior quality. Alcohol rests easy at 12.5% and the wine sells online usually for between $25 and $30.

This Grenache-based wine has a lovely, light pink hue, very Provencal. The nose carries aromas of sweet grapefruit, lemons and ripe strawberries. The palate brings an acidity that is fresh and lively. Red fruit and citrus notes come through nicely. When I think of rosé, this is the sort of wine that is in my thoughts. This is what I want in my glass all summer. 

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Bubbles From Burgundy

You likely know that Crémant is a French sparkling wine made in exactly the same way that Champagne is made, only in a region other than Champagne. That's not the only difference, though. Crémant also often utilizes different grapes than those favored in Champagne: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. 

A Crémant from Alsace may use Pinot Blanc, while one made in the Loire Valley may use Chenin Blanc and one from Burgundy may use Gamay. Here, though, is a Burgundian Crémant which relies on the tried and true grapes of Champagne.

The Albert Bichot Crémant  de Bourgogne Brut Reserve has a blend of 60% Chardonnay grapes and 40% Pinot Noir. The fruit was grown in Beaune, in the areas of Châtillonnais, Côte Chalonnaise & Mâconnais. 

Fifteen percent of the cuvée was aged for six months in oak and the remainder in stainless steel tanks. That’s the standard for reserve sparkling wines at Bichot. The regular stuff only needs 10% of the cuvée aged in wood. After the tank or barrel aging, the wine rests for another 18 to 20 months in the bottle. Alcohol sits at a very Champagne-like 12.5%, but it sells for around $25.

This wine offers plenty of bubbles, which dissipate quickly. The golden wine that remains has aromas of various citrus fruits, dried apricots, minerality and yeasty notes. The palate is savory and toasty, with a good level of acidity. The finish is lengthy, which is a good thing since is tastes so good. 

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