STARS OF CABERNET RECAP

The Stars of Cabernet tasting event had me expecting lots of ripe-to-bursting fruit and a pencil factory's worth of graphite.  I was surprised, but not disappointed.

The event was held November 16, 2011 at the Peninsula Hotelin Beverly Hills, staged by Ian Blackburn's Learn About Wine.  Instead of the usual Napa Valley supects - not that that's a bad thing - the room was populated by mostly small producers and a number of family-operated vineyards.

I wasn't the only one struck by how many "lean and mean" wines were poured.  Instead of the usual aromas and flavors that normally dominate a Cabernet Sauvignon event, there were quite a few wines showing a green, herbal quality which I found most attractive.  Old-world styles seem to pop up regularly.  Big, ripe fruit was certainly represented, too, and the tannins were uniformly firm.  I found myself remarking on the minerality and acidity at a number of tables.

Many of the wines were of the 2008 vintage, which was affected by a scarcity of rain and lots of late frost in Napa Valley, resulting in lower yields and smaller berries.  The quality was very high, though, and it showed in many of the wines poured at this event.

The quality of the wines was so uniformly high, it would be a disservice to leave out any that I tasted simply to save space.  I have plenty of space, so here's what I tasted:

Anderson's Conn Valley

This Napa producer poured their rich and elegant Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, the old-world Right Bank and Eloge, a Cabernet Franc blend.

Cliff Lede Vineyards

Lede's wines from the Stags Leap District have garnered high praise.  His Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District 2008 - 75% Cabernet Sauvignon blended with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec - has a beautiful, dark feel and the Poetry 2008 - same varieties with 78% Cabernet Sauvignon - shows dark fruit and great acidity.

Coup De Foudre

The name means "the moment when lightning strikes," a moment you'd like to keep forever.  It's a beautiful description of a Napa Valley wine that fits the bill.  Their 2009 Cuvée blend is 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, and it has a great herbal note on the currant fruit flavor.

Darms Lane

Napa Cab with a splash of Cab Franc makes up their Bon Passe Vineyard 2008.  It has a beautiful blueberry flavor and is smooth with firm tannins.  The Linda's Hillside 2007 shows cassis and even firmer tannins.  $25 of each bottle sold goes to the Ovarian Cancer Research fund in memory of Linda Bump, who lost a fight with that disease in 2007.

Duckhorn Wine Company

The Decoy 2009 Napa Valley Cab includes 18% Merlot and offers smoke on the nose with good structure.  The Duckhorn 2008 Napa Valley Cab blends in Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot and shows blackberry and earth.  The 2008 Monitor Ledge Vineyard Cab is augmented with a splash of Petit Verdot and shows an invigorating minerality.  The 2008 Howell Mountain Cab steps that feeling up a notch.

Frank Family Vineyards

The 2008 Napa Cab has Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc in the mix.  It's dark and rich with great tannic structure.  The 2009 Rutherford Reserve Cab adds a touch of graphite to the black cherry flavor.

Gentleman Farmer

The 2009 Cab has a peppery touch to the dark fruit, with great tannins.  The 2009 Napa Valley Red Wine is a Right Bank blend of 51% Cab, 46% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc.  The Cab Franc really shines in this one, with great red fruit displaying smoke and spice.

Grassini Family Vineyards

Located in the Happy Canyon AVA of Santa Barbara County, the Grassini's sustainably-farmed vineyards are near Dierberg Vineyards in the warm eastern part of the Santa Ynez Valley.  Their Estate Cab 2008 was one of the more intriguing wines of the event.   Terroir-driven, bright red fruit has a minty edge and superlative acidity.  It's no doubt a versatile wine for a complex holiday meal.  (That's Mandy Grassini in the image)

Grgich Hills Estate

The 2007 Napa Valley Cab is rich and dense, while the 2006 Yountville Cab is beautiful, showing plenty of dark fruit and notes of coffee.

Jaffe Estate

Transformation, Jaffe's 2008 blend of 60% Cab and 40% Merlot from St. Helena, is opulent.  Spices adorn smoke and candy.  The 2007 Metamorphosis St. Helena Cab goes deeper and darker, with an 85%/15% angle to the grapes.

Kathryn Kennedy Winery

One of the few non-Napa producers at this event, Kathryn Kennedy Winery is in the Santa Cruz Mountains, on the inland side.  The Small Lot Cab 2007 is produced utilizing sourced grapes from the AVA and shows a lovely herbal quality.  I also tried the 2002 Estate Cab, also displaying some herbal notes - mint and anise.

Knights Bridge Winery

From Knights Valley, in the Mayacamas Mountains, comes the most delicious wine I tasted at this event.  The Knights Valley Cab 2008 is loaded with fruit, has a touch of graphite and is smooth as silk.  $110.

Lail Vineyards

Lail's Blueprint Napa Valley Cab 2009 is elegant and strong at once, with great dark fruit and tannic structure.  Their J. Daniel Cuvée Napa Cab 2008 shows a minty, herbal note.

Mauritson Wines

Producing in Sonoma County's Dry Creek Valley, Clay Mauritson's pet project is a series of wines that show the different soil types available on the estate.  Each wine in the LOAM series bears the names of a soil type - just like the winemaker - and the '08 Suther, Positas and Clough ane a fascinating exploration of terroir when tasted side-by-side.  Rather than "single vineyard" wines, they are "single soil" efforts.

Patland Estate Vineyards

The 2008 Stagecoach Vineyards Cab is quite distinctive with a nice light touch, both possibly due to the inclusion of 8% Malbec.

Rocca Family Vineyards

Some exceptional Napa Cabs come from this family outfit. The Yountville Grigsby Vineyard 2008 has an herbal flair with very nice tannins, while the Collinetta Vineyard 2007 Cab is even more old-world with stunning acidity.

Signorello Estate Vineyards

Their 2007 Estate Cab is made from 80% Cab, 12% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc from their vineyards east of Silverado Trail.  It bears a peppery, spicy flavor profile which put me in mind of the approaching holidays.  Their 2007 Padrone Napa Valley Cab has a little more Cab and a little less Merlot.  It's dense and dark with great tannins.

Va Piano Vineyards

They are the only non-California winery I happed across at the event, located in Walla Walla, Washington.  Their 2008 Estate has Cab at 88% and also employs Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.  A little challenged in the nose, it's great tasting, very smooth and has nice minerality.

ZD Wines

Both ZD's '09 Napa valley Cab and their '08 Reserve are full, rich and smooth with spices and great tannic structure.

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BLOOD OF THE VINES - THE BIG CLOCK

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One of the most exciting nail-biters in the film noir genre, "The Big Clock" will have you wound up tighter than a cheap analog watch.  No small digital numbers here.  Crimeways Magazine likes it larger than life.  

Of all the things to like about this movie, that huge timepiece in the art deco office buiding may be my favorite.  It's like the old scoreboards of classic baseball parks.  Inside, though, instead of a guy flipping over the runs and outs, it houses a guy about to flip because his time may be running out.  

In Kenneth Fearing's book, the murder weapon is a brandy decanter, which would have fit nicely in this piece.  In the film version, Janoth kills his mistress with a sundial.  That plays into the clock theme so well you have to wonder why Fearing didn't think of it.  Maybe he was up against a deadline.

Janoth is played by Charles Laughton, who was a bit of a wine collector in his lifetime.  The last bottle of his private collection was sold at a British auction in 2008.  It was a rare bottle of Chateau Lafite 1870 which brought 3,450 pounds at the gavel.  I don't 

have my money converter on me, but I think that figures out to somewhere between a hundred and a million dollars.  You lost me at a hundred.

It's cheaper to find that bar around the corner where Ray Milland made it his habit to sip a stinger with green crème de menthe in a classy little gimlet glass.  Then, sneak back in and find some time to watch "The Big Clock."  Be sure to synchronize watches for the opening of the wine to pair with it. 

Paso Robles' Alta Colina Vineyards 12 O'Clock High is named for the north-south alignment of the vines in their white grape block.  Estate Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne and Grenache Blanc are blended together to form a wine that's refreshing enough to make film noir breezy and dense enough to fit with the kind of trouble in which Ray Milland finds himself.  

I met winemaker Bob Tillman's daughter Maggie when she poured her family's wines at a wine tasting event in Los Angeles.  The 12 O'Clock High really impressed me:

"I was most taken with the 2009 12 O'Clock High, a white blend of estate-grown Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne and Grenache Blanc.  Stone fruit and tropical notes are met with honey and minerals and a racy acidity that plays big on the finish."

You'll enjoy it with the big finish of "The Big Clock." 

Head Trailers From Hell guru Joe Dante recently presented "The Big Clock" at the University of Wisconsin's Cinematheque series.  Read about it here.

Time for some more wine?

Mountain View Vintners Clockspring Zinfandel - From Amador County, this Sierra Foothills Zin from the Clockspring Vineyard will no doubt help you unwind at movie time.

Dandelion Vineyards Wishing Clock of the Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc - According to the Australian winery, a wishing clock is the "blow-away" part of a dandelion.  Make a wish.  Sip.  Repeat.

Hourglass Winery - Anything from this Napa Valley winery should be good if you're one of those for whom a clock seems just a little too newfangled.

Clock Labels - Arizona's Su Vino Winery will personalize whatever wine you choose for your Big Clock pairing.

Wine Clocks - You had to see this coming.  Here's a search result for "wine clocks" - you can find one to your liking before the big hand moves too much, I'm sure.

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WINE IN AN ALUMINUM BOTTLE

Alternative containers for wine are all the rage lately.  Boxes, bags, pouches and kegs are all getting their turn to show how well they keep the wine, and how well they fit into our lifestyles.

Flasq Wines comes from Napa Valley-based JT Wines, and they are showing their mettle by packaging their wine in metal.  Their aluminum bottles are 100% recyclable, quick-chilling and they are great for taking wine on the go, since they won't break.

Flasq says their 375ml bottles chill five times faster than glass bottles and they leave a carbon footprint 35% less than glass since the cases are so much lighter to ship.  The bottles are lined so the wine does not experience contact with the aluminum, and no light gets into the bottle, helping to further preserve the wine inside.

The bottles were launched in January 2011 with Merlot and Chardonnay sourced from Monterey and San Luis Obispo Counties.  Now Flasq has released Cuvée Blanc made with grapes from Alexander Valley.

The Flasq Cuvée Blanc is 80% Sauvignon Blanc, 19% Viognier and 1% Moscato.  JT Wines' CEO, Tim McDonald, says that millennials have responded warmly to the new wine.  He says, "Responding to the growing popularity of sweeter wines across the country, particularly the coined 'Moscato Madness,' Cuvée Blanc is an easy drinking wine with attractive varietal-specific complexity and rich flavor for which our customers have been asking."

Flasq wines sell for around $7 per 375ml bottle.


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WHO IS DRINKING ALL THAT WINE?

Most of the wine produced in America comes from California.  Oregon, Washington and New York are also significant producers.  After that, though, wine production per state drops off dramatically.  That was the inspiration for the Now And Zin Wine Country series - exploring wine from “the other 46” states.

What about consumption, though?  Who is drinking all that wine made in the top four wine producing states?  You might be surprised which states consume the most wine, per capita.

In Washington, D.C., the average consumption of wine is 6.6 gallons per adult citizen per year.  That means, statistically speaking, the nation’s capital has the largest concentration of wine drinkers in America.  Alright, if you say that doesn’t surprise you, I’ll buy that.  I’ll wager the rest of the top five might.

Folks in New Hampshire consume 4.8 gallons of wine per year to land at number two.  I would assume that cider and mead are probably in that mix, too.  In Massachusetts and Vermont, they drink 4.1 gallons per person annually, while Nevada rounds out the top five at 3.8 gallons.

Connecticut, Delaware and New Jersey residents consume 3.6 gallons each per year, while Rhode Islanders, Hawaiians and Californians check in just under that mark at 3.4 gallons.

That's the top eleven wine-consuming states in America.  Are you surprised at the numbers?


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BEER AT BONEYARD BISTRO

I dropped in to Boneyard Bistro in Southern California's San Fernando Valley recently to find they had taken over a neighboring storefront on Ventura Boulevard and created a bar there to go along with their tiny dining area.

Boneyard Bistro has some killer barbecue, and the bar features a chalkboard on the wall with an ever-changing list of beers which go great with that cuisine.  I sampled a couple of them, with several small plates of some serious barbecued chow.

Wild Dog Barrel Aged Gonzo Imperial Porter comes from Flying Dog Brewery in Maryland.  Black in the glass with a dark brown head, this porter looks, smells and tastes great.  A burnt, nutty nose has some citrus notes, bourbon, and a sweetness that creeps in from the side.  It tastes of burnt hops and molasses.  Delightful.  It's a fairly stout porter at 9.5% abv.

Strand Brewing Company in Torrance, California produces the Atticus India Pale Ale.  It looks great in the glass, a dark amber color that shows a lot of red.  The tall, bone-colored head seems to be the visual definition of the word "frothy."  A floral nose is accompanied by a light body and lemony edge.  Lots of hops and malt show up on the palate with a slightly bitter taste that's beautiful with bbq.



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WINE FOR THANKSGIVING

Thanksgiving is the wine-drinkingest day of the year in America.  Pity those poor Pilgrims, piled up on Plymouth rock with nothing more than pumpkin beer to help them celebrate themselves.

Today, we have wine, glorious wine, to help bring out the 1,001 flavors on the Thanksgiving spread.  Some folks wring their hands and wipe their fevered brow over what to put in the empty wine glasses.  It doesn't have to be that hard.

In these liberated times, old-line wine rules are embraced by fewer people than ever, as the new guard advises "drink what you like."  It's the best advice I can give you, too.  But, if you'd like a little guidance as to which aisles of the wine store to navigate for Thanksgiving, here it is.

The most important feature to consider for your Thanksgiving wine is acidity.  That's what really makes a wine food-friendly and helps it to pair well with all the different flavors on the table.  Acidity is most important for white wines, while in red wines the tannins are usually what make them pair well with food, particularly food that's full of protein and fat, like meat and cheese.  Too much tannic structure, though, can make a wine overpowering.  You still want some acidity with red wines, too.  For a big meal like the one you may have planned for Thanksgiving, you may want to concentrate on higher acidity and lower tannins for the reds.  That will make the wine lighter and easier to drink while you're gorging on all that good food.

White wines which generally sport nice acidity include dry Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc - including Sancerre from France's Loire Valley - Roussanne and Chenin Blanc.

Reds which tend to have nice levels of acidity include Pinot Noir - particularly Burgundy -Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Syrah and Grenache.  Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignoncan work, too, but they can be quite high in alcohol, particularly California versions.  Try to keep an eye on the alcohol content - it's a long feast.

I think it's a great idea to have a few bottles of rosé on hand, especially for those leftover turkey sandwiches you'll be enjoying the rest of the long weekend.

For dessert, Sauternes is a great choice if you really want to make an impression, although they can be a bit pricy.  A late harvest wine will probably show the sweetness you want while also coming through with some acidity.

Sparkling wines make a festive occasion even more so.  You can spring for Champagne, or shop for bargains with a nice Prosecco (Italian) or Cava (Spanish) sparklers.

If you'd like some specific recommendations, allow me to cite a few I wouldn't mind having on my Thanksgiving table.  These are all wines I've encountered during the past year or so.

White Wines

Riesling

Dr. Konstantin Frank Finger Lakes Riesling 2009 - New York's Finger Lakes region is known for their Riesling wine.  $13

Chateau Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling 2008 - This Washington state winery is the biggest seller of American Riesling.  $8

Sauvignon Blanc

Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre 2009 - Flinty minerals and razoer blade acidity.  $21

Stepping Stone by Cornerstone Sauvignon Blanc Cuveé Musqué 2010 - Very aromatic, with a bracing acidity.  $15

Bogle Sauvignon Blanc 2010 - A little spiciness shows on the apple flavors.  $9

Roussanne

Domaine de la Becassonne Cotes du Rhone 2009 - I bought this at random when it was the only Roussanne in the wine store while I was shopping for one.  It was a great buy.  If you are not into dessert wine, this would work well with your pumpkin pie, by the way.  $13

Stolpman L’Avion Santa Ynez Valley 2008 - The floral nose attracts, the acidity serves.  $34

Bonterra Vineyards 2006 - Organically farmed Roussanne from northern California.  $21

Chenin Blanc

Dry Creek Vineyards Chenin Blanc 2008 - Great acidity and Meyer lemons mark this Clarksburg white.  $13

Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier 2010 -   Slight off-dry, but with nice acidity.  $12

Foxen Chenin BlancErnesto Wickenden Vineyard “Old Vines” 2010 - Great minerality goes on forever.  $22

Red Wines

Pinor Noir

Row Eleven Vinas 3 Pinot Noir 2009 - Cranberry flavors, fairly low alcohol and a nice minerality.  $20

Fess Parker Pinot Noir Parker Station 2009 - A good Pinot for how much?  $12

Riverbench Mesa Pinot Noir 2009 - Great acidity and minerals.  $48

Tempranillo

Beronia III a.C. 2004 - described as a "Super Rioja," blending Tempranillo, Graciano and Mazuelo grapes.  Pepper, leather and tobacco notes adorn the cherry fruit.  $62

Four Brix Winery Temptress - This Ventura County producer uses Central Coast grapes in this blend of Tempranillo, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Petite Sirah and Zinfandel.  $28

Protocolo Tinto 2008 - This bargain producer is getting some notice for their quality.  $9

Sangiovese

Frescobaldi Nipozzano Chianti Riserva 2007 - A table full of aroma and flavor in a bottle.  $20

Niner Wine Sangiovese, Bootjack Ranch 2008 - A fun taste that brings candy to mind, with the acidity needed for the meal.  $24

Palmina Alisos Santa Barbara County 2009 - Sangiovese and Merlot made for the table.  $30

Syrah

Frey Syrah 2009 - One of the best Syrahs I’ve had.  $14

Holus Bolus Octobrist Santa Ynez Valley Syrah 2006  - This wine made my Valentine lunch special, and it can do the same for any meal.  $26

Happy Canyon Vineyards Chukker 2009 - OK, so there’s only a smattering of Syrah in this mainly Cabernet Franc/Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon blend, but I think it’s a great choice for the holiday meal.  A little like Beaujolais Nouveau, but with more punch.  $13

Grenache

Verdad Rosé Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard, Edna Valley 2009 - I had this Grenache rosé at Thanksgiving last year, and it was great with the turkey and stuffing.  $16

Borsao Tinto 2009 - A really amazing Spanish Garnacha, considering the price.  $8

Guigal Gigondas Rouge 2007 - Full-bodied and luscious.  $28

Dessert

Roxo Port Cellars, Paso Robles - These folks craft some delicious Port-style wine from various grapes varieties grown in California.

Eden Vermont Ice Cider - I discovered this little jewel from the northeast as part of my Wine Country series.  Amazing stuff.

Santa Julia Tardio - Argentine Torrontes and Viognier, all late harvest. Very sweet with a very clean finish.

Sparkling

Il Conte D’Alba Stella Rosa Imperiale Moscato - It’s on the sweet side, but it’s bubbly and delicious.  It’s Italian, but marketed by San Antonio Winery in downtown Los Angeles.  $9

South Coast Winery Brut 2007 - A very aromatic sparkler from Temecula.  $18

Segura Viudas Brut Reserva NV - This Cava is easy to drink, and easy to find.  $10

Korbel Sweet Rosé NV - Lip smacking good and light on alcohol.  $12

For this holiday in particular, it might be nice to serve something from the area where Thanksgiving began, New England.  I can recommend mead from New Hampshire, apple ice cider from Vermont, a hybrid blend from Cape Cod and, soon, several other wines from Massachussets, all discovered in the Now And Zin Wine Country series.

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SANTA JULIA WINE LUNCH AT RIVERA

The wine of Argentina is a fascinating study. There are so many small producers there who make incredible wines, not only with mainstay Argentine grapes like Torrontes and Malbec, but also with grapes which are already household names to American wine lovers.   Argentina does wonderful things with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay, too.

I recently had the pleasure of a wine lunch featuring the wines of Santa Julia Winery and the cuisine of the country, presented by Santa Julia's own Ana Rodriguez Armisen, chef of Casa Del Visitante, the winery's restaurant in Argentina.  This media event was held at the esteemed Rivera restaurant, in downtown Los Angeles.  The food was a collaborative effort between the Rivera staff and Chef Ana.

Santa Julia is not one of those small producers of Argentina.  They are quite a large producer in Mendoza, actually. They are helping lead the way in Argentina's effort to get their wines known globally.  It wasn't too long ago that 90% of Argentina's wine was consumed in Argentina.  One doesn't need an MBA to realize that a marketing plan was needed.  Argentina started aggressively exporting their wine in the 1990s and are now the largest wine producing country in South America - fifth largest in the world.

Santa Julia has not yet achieved the name recognition in the US of  brands like Alamos and Trapiche, which you can probably find on your supermarket’s shelves.  They are, however, producing good quality wine that’s priced to sell - the Santa Julia line of wines is priced in the $10 to $15 range.  I have seen their label popping up from time to time over the past couple of years on a number of restaurant wine lists, and I expect to see it even more in the future.

Santa Julia was represented at this lunch by the lady whose name graces the label. Julia Zuccardi's grandfather, Alberto, founded the family's wine estate in 1963, and the Santa Julia line bears her name.

The Zuccardi family takes the family concept seriously.  They appear to be a big winery with a big heart.  Their 700 employees all have year-long jobs with the winery, not just at harvest time.  The Zuccardi family supports the people who make the wine in more than a monetary way.  They have created a community for their employees.

They also treat the land and its fruit with respect, evidenced by their commitment to sustainable, organic farming.  Santa Julia’s line of organic wines - [+] - is what brought Julia and Chef Ana to Los Angeles for this lunch.  

Their new line of sustainable wines are made with grapes taken from low-yielding, sustainably-farmed vineyards.  Organica (100% organic) and their top-end Reserva collections were served in addition to the [+] wines.  

Santa Julia is located in Mendoza - Argentina’s Napa Valley.  They have Malbec, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon on the list, as well as varieties not so commonly found in Argentina, like Viognier, Pinot Grigio and Tempranillo.  One of my tablemates called Santa Julia the United Nations of grapes.

The Organica line features Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Bonarda, Tempranillo, Malbec rosé, Torrontes and Chardonnay.  Their Reserva wines inculde Tempranillo, Malbec, Bonarda, Syrah, Chardonnay and Tardio - a late-harvest Torrontes.

The Menu

Appetizers - homemade empanadas and bread topped with beef slices and Chimichurri - were paired with a quartet of wines.   Santa Julia’s Brut Rosé is made from 100% Pinot Noir and shows earthy, toasty strawberries.  The Organica Chardonnay is unoaked and tropical.  The [+] Malbec sees only 4 months of French oak for 30% of the wine, while the and Organica Cabernet Sauvignon is vinified in stainless steel.  Both reds have rich aromas and finish long.

The first course of shrimp and watermelon mojito salad with cucumber and mint was a hit with the [+] Torrontes.  The fruit salad nose and peachy pear palate paired perfectly with the shrimp and fruit.

Grilled lamb with crispy smashed potatoes arrived as the main course.  The Santa Julia Reserva Malbec - young and fruity with earth and smoke - paired best with this dish.  Their Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon offered plenty of earthy notes, too, as well as firm tannic structure.

As good as the preceding culinary delights were, the hit of the lunch had to be the dessert - a beautiful presentation of chocolate torte with drunken pineapple.  The pairing with Santa Julia’s Tardio was a no-brainer.  The Torrontes and Viognier grapes used in this dessert wine are late-harvest selections, so there are no honey notes you might find in a wine made from grapes affected by botrytis.  This sweet wine is all fruit and very clean on the palate.

As a gift to the attendees, Chef Ana whipped up a little Chimichurri to show how easy it is to make.  Here’s her recipe:

Chef Ana’s Chimichurri

Spices, herbs, pepper, olive oil. 

Mix together chopped garlic, parsley, thyme rosemary, oregano, black pepper and paprika.  Chili pepper may be added to taste, but be careful not to make it too spicy.  Add 1 part wine vinegar and 1 part olive oil with a splash of torrontes and stir.  It’s great for dipping with bread, and also as a topping for grilled meats.

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BLOOD OF THE VINES: THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN

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"The Magnificent Seven" is based on the great Japanese film, "The Seven Samurai."  The setting is completely different, of course, and the Magnificent Seven don't speak Japanese.  There's more stucco than paper in the construction business.  Oh, and the western samurai use guns instead of swords.  That's fair, because the bad guys in "The Magnificent Seven" use guns, too.  Gun-versus-sword fights don't usually last too long.  See "Raiders of the Lost Ark" for why.

The action's not the only exciting thing about "The Magnificent Seven."  Elmer Bernstein's score never fails to thrill, and it may cause you to search around for a Marlboro red to fire up.  The soundtrack's main theme was used in Marlboro TV commercials back in the '60s.  Yes, Virginia, smokes used to be advertised on television.  That distinctive opening riff was also the inspiration for the horn intro to Arthur Conley's "Sweet Soul Music" in 1967.  Take that to your next trivia contest.

It's interesting that just as the story of "The Seven Samurai" was borrowed for "The Magnificent Seven," the mercenaries-protecting-the-weak theme was used again in the '80s science fiction film, "Battle Beyond the Stars."

The film was shot in Cuernavaca, Mexico - south of Mexico City.  Most of the grape growing in Mexico occurs well north of there, but we'll make a Baja recommendation later.  

Yul Brynner sold some of his wine collection in the early '90s - 1,800 bottles for over $124,000.  There was some Chateau Haut-Brion 1959 in that collection, but the price has gone up considerably since then.  We'll save that choice for something really special - like when we hit the lottery.  Brynner was married on the set of the movie!  I wonder if any of that wine was leftover from the wedding fiesta?

The villagers who hired the seven gunslingers couldn't afford to pay much, so in honor of them let's get our wine for "The Magnificent Seven" from the supermarket.  How about a Zinfandel for each of the hired guns?  Michael David Winery's 7 Deadly Zins combines Zinfandel from seven different Lodi vineyards for a wine any hired gun would love after a hard day of wipin' out the bad guys.  If you're a "white hat" kind of cowboy, try their 7 Heavenly Chards.  Both wines sell for under $15.

Or, you can grab some of these from your holster:

J Lohr Seven Oaks Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon - Six grape varieties here, with Cab leading the way.

Seven - A Spanish blend of seven grapes, with Tempranillo dominant.

Seven Of Hearts - An Oregon producer offering a line of wine ranging from affordable to pricy.

Seven Daughters - A blend of seven grapes grown in California, it comes in red and white.  From the Terlato family.

Grenache Valle de Guadalupe, Baja, Mexico - From Carlsbad, California, Witch Creek Winery also serves up several other wines sourced from Baja.

"Mexican Wine" by Fountains of Wayne - You can watch it before the movie, like a cartoon.

Samurai Wine Caddy - A tip of the hat to the source material for this movie, this guy will guard that bottle so well you might not ever open it.

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STAGS LEAP HANDS OF TIME 2008

It's late night in Las Vegas - well, Summerlin - and I stroll into the TBones steakhouse in the Red Rock Casino and Hotel and take a seat at the bar.  The waitress says it's last call.  Last call in Vegas?  I didn't know there was such a thing.  I'll have the Stags' Leap.

Stags' Leap Winery in Napa Valley is famous not only for great wines, but also for winning the Cabernet Sauvignon prize at the famous Judgement of Paris tasting.  You wouldn't know it by watching Bottle Shock though - that movie dealt only with Chateau Montelena's big success in that event with their Chardonnay.

Despite the slight from Hollywood, Stags' Leap manages to carry on pretty well.  Their Hands of Time red blend is 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot and 3% Syrah.  It sells for around $30, and it cost $16 by the glass at TBones.

There are plenty of bottles offered at TBones, but the by-the-glass selection is rather skimpy at the steakhouse.  However - as Spencer Tracy said - "what's there is cherce."  There are five Sommelier selections on the list which range from $15 to $45 per glass.

Hands Of Time is inky black in the glass and the nose is just beautiful, showing blackberries all lush and ripe.  Anise, vanilla and a light clove aroma also make it an interesting sniff.  The palate is all about dark fruit, with graphite and smoke lightly appearing.  The finish is lengthy with a hint of stewed prunes.

I'm glad I didn't miss last call.


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SALISBURY VINEYARDS PINOT NATURALE 2009

Artisan Cheese Gallery is a great little place for some fantastic cheese, but they have a great selection of wines, too.  The restaurant/cheese shop/wine store is in Studio City in Southern California's San Fernando Valley.  At lunch there, I had the opportunity to sample an unusual wine, at least for me.

The Salisbury Vineyards Pinot Naturale is a San Luis Obispo Pinot Noir from the ocean influenced Avila Valley, but it's made with minimal skin contact, so the wine is actually white with a very pale pink hue.  The nose is almost as unusual as its appearance, but a lovely strawberry aroma dominates.

There is a very nice acidity and a strong blast of minerality on the palate.  The minerals may have been the element on the nose which I found unusual, but in a good way.  Strawberry flavors put a sweet edge on the dry wine, and the minerality puts me in mind of wet rocks.  If blindfolded, I may well have guessed this was made from white wine grapes.


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PELLEGRINI SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010

Tender Greens is not a fancy restaurant, but the several locations around Los Angeles offer good food - much of it organic - at some pretty fair prices.  Their local, line-caught albacore tuna for about $10 is hard to beat.  Their concept is simple enough: sit-down food for on-the-go people made from ingredients that are more or less locally sourced, natural or organic and  reasonably healthy.  I wonder about how healthy the buttery mashed potatoes are, but not about how good they taste.

The wine offerings at Tender Greens are a little off-the-beaten-path, and that's a good thing.  Their wines - the list is on a chalkboard - are not the usual big-producer fare often found in casual dining.  Smaller, family-owned wineries appear to be the norm.

Pellegrini Family Vineyards is located in Sonoma County - the Russian River Valley - and they have three estate vineyards.  The grapes for their 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, however, come from Lake County - the Leveroni Vineyard.  It retails for $15 per bottle, and cost $8 by the glass at Tender Greens.

The wine is almost clear and offers some light grassy notes underneath melon aromas on the nose.  It's a bright and refreshing wine, full of lively acidity and flavors of grapefruit and lemon peel.  It paired well with the potato leek soup.


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