Kevin and Paula Jussila are on a wine odyssey which began nearly two decades ago in a small backyard vineyard in Southern California. The Paso chapter of their story started in 2004 with the beginnings of kukkula wine - KOO-kuh-luh - the lack of capitalization is their choice. Their name means "the high place" in Finnish.
Kevin's father was from Finland and the man left a lasting impression on his son, who reveres his dad, his birthplace and all things Finnish. Paula says she is kukkula's co-owner and the winemaker's wife, but thinks of herself more as an enabler… enabling Kevin's dreams.
Kevin began making wine in the 1990s, using grapes grown in his tiny Topanga vineyard. Today, his wines have unusual names: Pas De Deux, Lothario and In The Red. There are also names that reflect Kevin's Finnish heritage, like Aatto, Kaamos and Vaalea. The latter is kukkula's only white wine, a blend of Grenache blanc, Roussanne, and Viognier. Some of the names look daunting, but the labels feature pronouncers to help the non-Scandinavian among us.
The kukkula estate is organic and dry farmed, which the Jussilas feel will allow them to "create wines of intense aromatics, flavors, and color, that are a true expression of place, and the essence of their terroir." They grow olives, too, and make olive oil and a delicious wine jelly in addition to their wines. They have no distribution in the United States - their sales are mostly club-driven. They are distributed in Finland, however, where the brand is highly respected.
The 2017 kukkula Aatto is made from the estate's specialty - Rhône grape varieties. It contains 45% Counoise, 35% Mourvèdre and 20% Grenache grapes. Counoise, in France, is typically used more sparingly as a minor component in a blend. Its lead role in Aatto gives the wine a stylish, highly perfumed presence. Aatto sports alcohol at 15.4% abv and it retails for $55.
The 2017 Aatto has a medium-dark garnet color with a slight brownish tint. It pours up looking older than its four years. The nose carries a strongly perfumed floral note as its banner - lilacs and oleanders come to mind. Beneath that, dark fruit - currant, blackberry, plum - rise above the flowerbed. Sweet spice - vanilla and cinnamon - play a minor role. On the palate, it is a youthful show of the fruit that demands attention. Tannins are firm and finely honed, and the acidity provides a lip-smacking delight. This is a wine I would like to have with a pork chop or rosemary ham, but it could also handle beefy dishes.
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