Wednesday, December 10, 2025

Wholehearted Nebbiolo

Winemaker Luca Faccenda grew up in a valley where his family has worked the earth for so long, it bears the family name. The Nebbiolo grapes from his steep Piedmont slopes are grown organically in the Roero region. Faccenda says he strives to neither add to, nor detract from, what the grapes have to offer. The 2020 Valfaccenda Roero hits 13.5% abv and sells for about $40. 

This wine has a nice medium ruby tint in the glass, with a bit of brick red in the pour. The nose has plum and blackberry aromas, along with those of tobacco and purple flowers. The palate has a grip that won't turn loose, extremely firm tannins and wholehearted acidity. The overall impression is that of a savory wine that begs to be paired with steak, the fattier the better. 


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Monday, December 8, 2025

Peel Me A Pelaverga

Whenever my wife gets tired of hearing me talk about wine, which is less often than you might think, I can go to Los Feliz and have a vino convo with Lou Amdur, of Lou Wine Shop. He knows a lot about wine, a lot more than I do. Maybe he knows more than I ever will about wine, but that's okay, because I can learn from him.

One of my recent wine club selections was the 2023 Cantina Massara Pelaverga di Verduno. Yes, Lou finds the best wines for his wine club. If he selects it, I know I'll like it.

The Italian Pelaverga grape variety is pretty rare. Only about seventy-five acres of it are still under cultivation, and Lou says only eleven growers even bother to cultivate it. All of those growers are located in or near the Piemontese commune of Verduno.

Only grape growers in Verduno are allowed the privilege of putting their denomination on the label: Pelaverga di Verduno. Outside of this area, a Pelaverga grower would have to call it simply a vino rosso. These growers do grow Nebbiolo grapes and make very fine Barolo wines that get all the glory, says Lou. But Pelaverga is considered a special grape in Verduno, part of the area's heritage that deserves to be preserved.

As a side note, Lou describes the origin of the grape's name, with an apology for anyone who  might be offended. I'll just say the name stems from the Italian "pela," which means "to peel," and "verga," which translates as "rod." Let your imagination run wild.

The 2023 Cantina Massara Pelaverga di Verduno comes from the chalky, sandy soil of three different vineyard sites in the village. Steel tank vinification takes eight days, and the wine stays in the tank to age for six months. Alcohol sits at 13.5% abv and the wine sells for around $35.

This wine has a light ruby red color. Its nose is bright and elegant, with aromas of pomegranate, cherry, and an herbal note that smells a bit like rosemary. The palate shows cherry, raspberry, and spice aromas, all cloaked in a delightful earthiness. The acidity is racy and fresh. The finish lasts awhile, and brings in a note of cherry candy. 


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Friday, December 5, 2025

Blood Of The Vines - Wilder Than Ever

Pairing‌‌‌ ‌‌‌wine‌‌‌ ‌‌‌with‌‌‌ ‌‌‌movies!‌‌‌ See‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌hear‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌fascinating‌‌‌ ‌‌‌commentary‌‌‌ ‌‌‌for‌‌‌ ‌‌‌these‌‌‌ ‌‌‌‌‌movies‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌many‌‌‌ ‌‌‌more‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌at‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌From‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Hell.‌‌‌ This week, wild times with Billy Wilder. We’ll have a wine pairing for each of these three films, too.

Wilder co-wrote and directed Fedora in 1978, a production by the West Germans and the French. It's nice when we can all get along and make movies. The title character is a famous and beautiful movie star who has retired to her own private Idaho, actually a Greek island. Word gets out that she has killed herself. Rumor has it that she did herself in, naturally for an actress, in the most dramatic way possible. She threw herself in front of a train.

The lug who loved her years before can't believe it, and he does a little digging. Apparently, it's not illegal to dig on Corfu. And here comes the ol' switcheroo. The big ball of confusion that unwinds and gets everyone all tangled up in it. It wasn't Fedora who killed herself, it was… it was…. Aah, why spoil it for you. Watch for yourself and see what becomes of the broken-hearted. 

Valter Kobal is the fifth generation of winemakers in his family. They have persevered through the decades, through WWII, through communism, and now make their own wines in Slovenia, as Fedora Wines. Their output includes Chardonnay, a red blend of Merlot, Cabernet, and Refosco, and wines made from varieties indigenous to Slovenia, like Zelen and Pinela, most of which sell for around $36. 

Avanti!, from 1972, stars Juliet Mills and Jack Lemmon. The script for the romcom was written by Wilder and I.A.L. Diamond, so there is that pedigree to consider. If you don't think it's funny enough, welcome to the club. Wilder reportedly didn't care for the finished product and claimed he didn't write it as a comedy in the first place. So, there.

Wine plays a tangential role in the movie. A deadly auto accident that serves as the film's linchpin happens at an Italian vineyard, and the owners prove to be unhappy that their vines were damaged by the crash. Colorado's Avanti Winery comes to mind, but wouldn't you rather have a nice Ligurian Vermentino?  I thought so. 

Witness for the Prosecution was directed in 1957 by Wilder, and he also had a hand in writing it. The script was based on the Agatha Christie play, which is what biz insiders call "stealing from the rich." Christie even said it was her favorite film adaptation of any of her works.

It was a good enough movie to garner six Oscar nominations and a handful of Golden Globe noms. Stars like Tyrone Power, Charles Laughton, Marlene Dietrich, and Elsa Lanchester turned in magnificent performances, but alas, Sayonara and The Bridge on the River Kwai dominated their categories. Lanchester did win the Globe for her role as Miss Plimsoll. 

When the critics like a movie, it can be a tough sell to the public. Not in this case. Tickets flew out of box offices like it was a tickertape parade. The movie's ad campaign read this way: "You'll talk about it, but please don't tell the ending." Okay, I won't. But you'll be shocked when Laughton's character is revealed in court to be a cross-dresser. Oops. I did it again. 

Aptos Vineyard, in the Santa Cruz Mountains, has a courtroom-related wine called Alternate Juror. I can relate to this because I was once an alternate juror myself. There is little in this world as unsatisfying as being an alternate anything. This Pinot Noir sells for $54, which is the least I would pay to avoid being the 13th angry man. 


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Wednesday, December 3, 2025

A White Blend From The Rhone Valley

I am so happy to have a white wine from the Rhône Valley to write about. I generally prefer whites, and the Rhône is my favorite region… in France, anyway. 

The 2022 Michel Chapoutier La Bernardine is a Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine. La Bernardine is the name of the house in the middle of the vineyards. The wine is made from Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Clairette, and Roussanne grapes, which were vinified in oak and steel, while aging took place in stainless steel tanks. The alcohol content is 13.5% abv and the retail price is $65.

This wine has a beautiful golden color in the glass. Citrus, apricot, almonds and a floral note define the nose. The palate brings steely acidity and citrus flavors. The acidity is bracing, and the finish is long and delicious. Pair La Bernardine with white meats or seafood of any kind. It also goes nicely with a soft cheese.


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Monday, December 1, 2025

Revisiting An Encounter From My Early Wine Life

The wine we’ll taste today is the 2023 M. Chapoutier Les Meysonniers. It is a 100% Syrah wine from the northern Rhône Valley. I have a real weakness for Syrah, and for the wines of the Rhône in general. Syrah is the only red grape permitted for use in the Crozes-Hermitage appellation.

Who is the "M" of M. Chapoutier? There have been several, and they just keep coming. Marius, Marc, Michel, Mathilde and Maxime have all made their mark on the Chapoutier brand in one way or another. When I first became serious about wine, Chapoutier was one of the names I was first acquainted with, and I am happy to revisit it now and then.

Les Meysonniers was vinified in concrete vats, and 90% of the wine was aged in them. The remainder was aged 12 months in barrels. Alcohol sits rather low at 12.5% abv and it sells for about $20, maybe less. 

This wine has a medium-dark ruby color in the glass. The nose is what I always look forward to in a Syrah. The big cassis note, the faint earth note, the slight herbal note. The combination of mint, eucalyptus, dirt, and funk provides the perfect backdrop to that dark purple juice. The palate is as big and bold as one might expect, maybe bigger and bolder. Dark fruit flavors are buried in a savory mound of earth and herb. The tannins are firm. I’m going to make a rib eye steak before this bottle becomes empty. 


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