A Bargain From Bordeaux

Les Portes de Bordeaux 2023 is described on the label as a Grand Vin de Bordeaux, which hits close to the mark, if not directly on it. The portes, or gates, of Bordeaux are giant, ancient structures that date back almost a millennium. What does that have to do with this wine? Probably nothing, except that it is a wine produced in Bordeaux and the drawing of the gate looks good on the label. 

The maker is LWX Wines, which is a company that sources, produces, packages, and delivers exclusive adult beverages to retailers. This one came from Trader Joe's, where I often pick up wine for cooking. 

The 2023 Les Portes de Bordeaux handles that task easily, and it drinks nicely, too. The grapes are Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon, alcohol is rather low, at 13% abv, and it costs $7 at Trader Joe's. 

This wine is inky dark in the glass. The nose is fairly beautiful, with a large whiff of black fruit like blackberry, blueberry, and currant dominating over the sniff of smoke and the note of graphite. The same sort of fruit is forward on the palate, and the tannic grip is enough, but not too much. It is a satisfying Bordeaux, and it worked well in my beef stew. 

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In Hungary It's Kékfrankos, But You Can Call It Blaufränkisch

Today’s wine comes from a little town in Hungary, Hajós, about a two hour drive south from Budapest. It’s from a winery called Sziegl Pince, but they call it Sziegl Winery. "They," by the way, are Petra and Balázs. They are Sziegl Winery, the two of them. They grow grapes and make wine from those grapes, and no doubt a lot more boring things that two people do to keep a business afloat.

Petra and Balázs say they "work exclusively with organic farming, love to experiment, {and} never make the same wine twice." They say they are “constantly looking for the new in the old.”

The grapes in question here are Kékfrankos, also known in some parts as Blaufränkisch. They were grown in the Hársfás-út vineyard in the vintage year 2020, which you may remember was a tough year for a lot of folks, not just winemakers. The Sziegl Kékfrankos has an alcohol level of 13.5% abv and a retail price of $42.

This wine has a medium-dark tint. The nose shows raspberry, minerality, and coffee notes. The palate brings a sense of Pinot Noir, but on the rustic side. Tart fruit takes a slightly sweeter role, while the tannins are firm, but forgiving. 

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Bubbles For Your Valentine

The Albert Bichot Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Rosé will add some sparkle to your Valentine's Day, at a nice price. 

Crémant is the name for French sparkling wine made in places other than Champagne. The grapes are 80% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay, and a splash of Gamay, just for fun. The Pinot was grown in the Côtes Chalonnaise region, the Chardonnay came from Auxerrois, while the Gamay hails from Mâconnais. Alcohol hits only 12% abv and it can be found for less than $30. 

This wine has a brilliant pink color and produces plenty of fine white froth on the pour. The nose has a striking note of orange, joined by raspberry, cherry, and mineral aromas. The mouthfeel is full and fruit flavors nudge the toasty aspect over a bit. Medium acidity makes for a nice sip, and a pairing with cheese comes naturally. 

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A Bargain Lambrusco Rings The Bell

I have never had a Lambrusco that I absolutely hated, so it's easy for me to spot a potential bargain. The Le Grotte Lambrusco Rosso Dolce is only about $5 at Trader Joe's, so the price is right for a bargain wine, now it just has to be good. 

The wine is subtitled as a "soft red wine," which I suppose is accurate, but the reference to "sweet" is a little off base. It’s a bit darker and more earthy than those words imply. The grapes come from Italy's Emilia-Romagna region, and alcohol checks in low at only 8.5% abv.

This wine is slightly frizzante upon pouring, the purple bubbles dissipating quickly. A whiff reveals fragrant, ripe cherries and concord grapes. The palate is soft and round, full of fresh fruit, a touch of earth and some tingly acidity. Complexity is not the issue here, as it might be with other Lambruscos. This is an extremely drinkable and food-friendly wine. A true bargain. 

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Champagne for Valentine's Day

With Valentine's Day on the horizon, we always find ourselves looking for pink wines. With bubbles, please. It's more romantic that way.

Champagne Mandois is located in the Premier Cru village of Pierry. The estate is under the control of the same family who has owned and operated it for nine generations. That's close to 250 Valentine's Days.

The Mandois non-vintage Brut Rosé Grande Réserve is made up of 30% Chardonnay grapes, 35% Pinot Noir, and 35% Pinot Meunier. Alcohol stays low at 12% abv and the retail price is $70. 

This wine pours up with a salmon pink color. The white bubbles disappear rather quickly. Aromas of ripe strawberry explode from the nose, mixing with a bit of lemon peel. The palate shows a bushel of red fruit along with a strong minerality and a citrus undercurrent. The acidity is lively and refreshing. Big time drinkability joins extreme food friendliness in this bubbly. 

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Light And Bouncy Red From Ribeiro

The 2022 Cume do Avia Colleita No. 10 is a light red wine from Spain’s Ribeiro region, in Galicia. The Source Imports, of Moorpark, CA, have some rich notes about the winery and the grapes. 

The main grape is Caiño Longo (40%), one of the oldest known indigenous varieties in Ribeiro. The importer calls it a “lightning bolt of freshness with an atomic level of expansive energy.” Makes you want to open it right away, doesn’t it? Sousón (34%) has a “turbo charge of natural acidity,” while Brancellao (26%) is “dainty, thin framed, soft spoken and subtly powerful.” The region is cool anyway, and the fruit is picked on the early side of ripeness.

Cume do Avia’s “geologically complex mountainside vineyards are composed of granodiorite, schist, slate, and gneiss bedrock, clay and sand topsoil” overlooking the Avia and Miño Rivers.

Colleita 10 Tinto is 40% whole cluster, aged nine months in large, ancient chestnut foudres. It is lightly filtered before bottling. Alcohol is a lilting 11% abv while the retail price is $26.

The wine has a medium-light ruby color. The aromatic nose is nearly all minerals, with raspberry and black pepper notes. The palate is smooth and savory, with tart red fruit flavors. The taste reminds me of a very Burgundian Pinot Noir or a Schiava from Italy’s Alpine region. The tannins are quite relaxed, and the acidity is on the tame side, too. It is a tasty wine, though. Pair it with soft cheese or a fruit plate. 

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