White Italian Wine From Lombardy

Ottella is located in the town of Peschiera del Garda, in a region called Lugana.  Lugana straddles two wine regions, mostly Lombardy with a bit sticking into Veneto.  Over the past decade or so, the acreage under vine in Lugana has tripled, while the quality of the wines have increased as well.

The Turbiana grape was known as Trebbiano di Lugano until scientists discovered that it was actually Verdicchio.  The grapes for the 2018 Lugana DOC Riserva Molceo were grown in the white clay vineyards of San Benedetto di Lugana.

The mostly whole bunch grapes are gently pressed, vinified, then aged for 16 months, mainly on the lees in steel tanks, with some more aging in wood.  The wine is contained in what looks like an oversized Port bottle, a bit taller, though.  Alcohol resides at 13.5% abv and the retail price is about $25.

This Lombardian white wine opens with a floral nose, which is quickly joined by the scent of apricots and grapefruit.  There is an overriding sense of salinity, with a touch of lanolin as well.  On the palate, that salinity comes bursting forth in a nutty, mineral-driven flavor.  The acidity is racy enough for shellfish but not sharp enough to hurt the taste buds. If you'd like a wine which comes on like an Albariño and then behaves like a Roussanne before becoming a Sauvignon Blanc, this wine should make you happy.  It made me ecstatic.

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BUCCI VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO SUPERIORE

Another trip to Fabrocini's Beverly Glen - yes, the calamari and scungilli salad beckoned again - resulted in another white wine to pair with my favorite dish.  Usually I go with a California wine here - once a German Riesling - but this time I went Italian.

The Bucci Verdicchio Dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore is $12 by the glass at Fabrocini’s.  It has an alcohol level of 13.5% and appears to be a 100% varietal wine aged only in the bottle. 

The wine has a shimmering golden color with a greenish tint.  Peach and minerals vie for attention on the nose and the palate, with the mineral aspect particularly forceful on the taste.  There is a hint of vegetation as well.  A full mouthfeel and plenty of acidity make it a wonderful quaff, and both help it pair so well with seafood.  A long-lasting finish leaves ripe peaches as a memory.

Vitiano Verdicchio Vermentino 2008

The Rolling Stones gave us some very good advice once, about getting what we need in the event the thing we want is unavailable.  I almost never ask a restaurant to sell me a wine by the glass when their wine list clearly shows it to be offered by the bottle only.  This once, I made an exception.  I didn't see what I wanted, and I ended up getting exactly what I needed.

A recent Sunday lunch took us to a reliable old standby, Il Fornaio in Beverly Hills.  They have a pretty fine assortment of wines on their list, and I felt the moment called for a glass of a nice Italian white.  What better place for that?  I was hoping to find a Vermentino.  I don't know if it's a standard look, but their wine list had only one Italian white offered by the glass.  A Pinot Grigio.  It simply wasn't what I wanted.  I went to the bartender - who was holding an already opened bottle of wine in his hands - and told him I was hoping for a glass of an Italian white with a little more appeal.  He said, "How about this one?," holding the bottle up in front of him.  He even poured me a taste.  I was sold.

Vitiano's 50/50 Umbrian blend of Verdicchio and Vermentino was an excellent choice, even though I can't take credit for choosing it.  I can't even give the bartender credit - he was just trying to sell another glass of the wine he was already holding in his hands.  However it transpired, it was alright with me.

Its beautiful golden color is a perfect complement to a sunny Sunday lunch.  There's a wonderful nose laden with minerals, citrus and honeyed pears.  The taste is lush and mouth-filling, like pear juice.  A fresh minerality comes through, too, which offers the enjoyable situation of drinking a wine that's both crisp and soft.  So you can actually, sometimes, get what you want and what you need.