The Rolling Stones gave us some very good advice once, about getting what we need in the event the thing we want is unavailable. I almost never ask a restaurant to sell me a wine by the glass when their wine list clearly shows it to be offered by the bottle only. This once, I made an exception. I didn't see what I wanted, and I ended up getting exactly what I needed.
A recent Sunday lunch took us to a reliable old standby, Il Fornaio in Beverly Hills. They have a pretty fine assortment of wines on their list, and I felt the moment called for a glass of a nice Italian white. What better place for that? I was hoping to find a Vermentino. I don't know if it's a standard look, but their wine list had only one Italian white offered by the glass. A Pinot Grigio. It simply wasn't what I wanted. I went to the bartender - who was holding an already opened bottle of wine in his hands - and told him I was hoping for a glass of an Italian white with a little more appeal. He said, "How about this one?," holding the bottle up in front of him. He even poured me a taste. I was sold.
Vitiano's 50/50 Umbrian blend of Verdicchio and Vermentino was an excellent choice, even though I can't take credit for choosing it. I can't even give the bartender credit - he was just trying to sell another glass of the wine he was already holding in his hands. However it transpired, it was alright with me.
Its beautiful golden color is a perfect complement to a sunny Sunday lunch. There's a wonderful nose laden with minerals, citrus and honeyed pears. The taste is lush and mouth-filling, like pear juice. A fresh minerality comes through, too, which offers the enjoyable situation of drinking a wine that's both crisp and soft. So you can actually, sometimes, get what you want and what you need.