Friday, November 19, 2010


Clean Slate Riesling at Fabrocini's

A beautiful, sunny Friday provides a great excuse - as if I need one - to hit Mulholland Drive and make my way over to Fabrocini's Beverly Glen.  This Italian restaurant in the Beverly Glen Center has my favorite dish for lunch.  Their calamari and scungilli salad is on the short list of things for which I live.

It was extra good this time, with less lettuce and more of those tentacled creatures from the deep.  There might have been a better choice for wine, but I was in the mood for a Riesling.

Clean Slate takes its name from the slate stones in the vineyards. They describe it this way:
"The thin slate stones of our vineyards in the Mosel River Valley are a critical factor in crafting a Riesling of exquisite balance.  So precious are these stones that those which slip into the river are carefully carried back up the treacherously steep vineyard slopes and returned to place.  Reflecting and retaining heat, the slate is essential to ripening the grapes in this cool climate..."

This Riesling has a pale yellow-green tint and a pretty nose that's fruity with pears and white peaches.  Nice and full in the mouth, it tastes of peaches and pears with a squeeze of citrus.  The minerality - no doubt owing some debt to those slate stones - is very refreshing.  It has a good acidity, but it doesn't come on really strong.  A nice finish leaves a slate and citrus feel on the palate.

Clean Slate Riesling is sold by the glass at Fabrocini's for $9.

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