Monday, August 10, 2026

A Most Interesting Red Wine From Bugey

The wine club to which I belong is run by a guy whose opinions I respect and whose tastes lie on the adventurous side of "what was that again?" He says, "Mondeuse is a wine that sits at the crossroads of gamay (fresh, rarely dense), cabernet franc (savory, earthy), and Rhône syrah (brambly), and I often also pick up a unique, nearly camphoraceous dimension that distinguishes it from any other grape." Sounds interesting, doesn't it?

The Quinard family has farmed in the Bugey region of France since the mid-19th century. In the 1970s they altered their focus specifically to grapes, leaving out all the other food and animal interests they had been associated with for more than a hundred years. Their organic certification came in 2009.

The Caveau Quinard Grand Hautins 2023 is made from the Mondeuse grape, which may send you scurrying to your Century Club notes. It is a unique grape, and not one to be taken lightly. Alcohol tips 13% and it is usually available for less than $25. 

This wine is a medium-dark ruby color in the glass. The nose is fully dark, showing plum, blackberry, sour cherry, and anise aromas. The palate is a shocker. I had never had a wine made from the Mondeuse grape, and I was taken aback. Those dark fruits are noticeable, but they appear alongside a massive minerality. The earthy tone of this wine takes no prisoners. I would say it's like a brawny Pinot Noir, but that description doesn't do it justice. Maybe a Pinot Noir blended with Syrah, except we know that never happens. Right? This wine is an experience, one for which you should brace yourself. 


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Friday, August 7, 2026

Blood Of The Vines - A Crock Of Crazies

Pairing‌‌‌ ‌‌‌wine‌‌‌ ‌‌‌with‌‌‌ ‌‌‌movies!‌‌‌  ‌‌‌See‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌hear‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌fascinating‌‌‌ ‌‌‌commentary‌‌‌ ‌‌‌for‌‌‌ ‌‌‌these‌‌‌ movies‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌many‌‌‌ ‌‌‌more‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌at‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌From‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Hell.‌‌‌ ‌ This week, a trio of movies about people who operate way outside the norm. There are crazy wine pairings to go with each.

Maniac Cop is a 1988 slasher flick which the title gives away: a cop is the bad guy. That might have been a tougher sell thirty-eight years ago than it is today. Of course, "defund the zombie cops" might have turned into a thing even back then. If you didn't see Maniac Cop in the theaters, don't let it slip on social media. It wasn't a money-maker, but enough paying customers lined up that there were two sequels. I guess the writer-producer kept hoping the idea would catch on. Director William Lustig probably had his hopes up, too.

The cop in question was framed, sent to Sing Sing, then killed in the shower. But, you can't keep a bad cop down. He resurrected himself and came back for vengeance. With the setup, a stint in the graybar hotel, and a prison murder, it sounds like his kill list might have been rather lengthy. Not to worry. He's a maniac cop, remember. Killing comes easily to him. 

The prison doc who did his autopsy reveals that, at the time, the corpse showed signs of life. Well, there's a guy who's on the list with a bullet. "He may not have been quite dead" is a fairly weak alibi for doing an autopsy on a living person.

If you can't stand anymore, and I surely can't, let's drink. The Cordant Maniacal GSM is a Paso Robles blend of, well, Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. Do we have to spell it out? It's a $25 trip into Rhone-style craziness. 

1972's Three on a Meathook offers the kind of entertainment you might expect from that title. If I told you three girls go to the lake for the weekend, would you expect them to be back at school on Monday? If I throw in mentions of car trouble, getting a ride with a stranger, and "He lives with his dad," would you feel like you just read the script? I know you would.

TFH legend Eli Roth goes on and on about the trailer for this movie. He describes how the trailer goes on and on while a serious voiceover goes on and on about nothing in particular, ending with the film's title. Roth points out that the film actually has three women on three different meathooks, which sounds like false advertising. It also sounds like a spoiler alert I should have mentioned earlier. But what are you expecting with Three on a Meathook? None on a meathook? Sorry if I spoiled the ending for you.

I had high hopes for wine pairings from a Brooklyn butcher known as Meat Hook. They suggested sake for roast beef. I suggest we keep looking. There's a cocktail called The Meat Hook, but we want wine, man, wine. Nothing goes with meathooks like a good Cabernet Sauvignon, so let's pop a cork. Smith and Hook's Paso Robles Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is just sitting there, waiting for a rib eye steak to come along. $50.

A good, old fashioned slasher movie, Maniac came from 1980, directed by William Lustig, formerly of the world of video porn. You get the opportunity to come up above ground, and this is what you make?

The villain in Maniac is a goofy looking guy who gets his jollies by murdering young women, scalping them, and adorning his mannequin collection with the bloody hairpieces. I understand the film now has a cult following. Of course it does, and what a great cult to join. The meetings must be buzzing with its members' favorite mutilation memories. Can I just jump to the wine pairing now? Thank you.

Orin Swift makes a California Chardonnay called Mannequin. The label even shows some, which have yet to be graced with a head of hair. Get yours for $48. Be careful when you cut off that foil cap. 


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Wednesday, August 5, 2026

French Grapes, Tuscan Soil, Italian Rosato

If you're looking for a special rosé wine, you may be looking in Provence, or California. But don't skip over Italy. There are some good pinks coming out of the country with the boot.

From the heart of Tuscany comes Campo di Sasso's Rissoa 2025. The Toscano Rosato I.G.T. wine is a blend of Cabernet Franc and Syrah, fermented in stainless steel, aged 30 days on the lees, and two months in the bottle. Alcohol sits at 13% abv and it sells for about $32.

This wine is a rich salmon color, with a nice clarity. The nose features cherries, strawberries, a hint of lemon and stone fruit, and a light minerality. Flavors of fruit dominate the palate. Cherry, pear, apricot, lemon, and tangerine all play together. There is a subtle salinity running through the sip. The medium finish is fruity and the acidity is fresh but not racy. I had it with shrimp scampi, and it worked out just fine. 


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Monday, August 3, 2026

Vermentino From Tuscany

Niccolò Marzichi Lenzi is the CEO and co-owner of Tenuta di Biserno and Tenuta Campo di Sasso, wineries on the coastal reaches of Bibbona in Tuscany. There, the microclimate balances warmth and maritime freshness. Ripeness is moderated, extraction kept light, and structure allowed to step aside for wines that feel expressive and uncontrived.

Two wonderful white wines, Occhione and Rissoa, reflect a nuanced expression of the estate, one that is expressive of their environment.

Occhione is a Vermentino wine, a grape for which I have quite a fondness. This Toscana I.G.T. wine is 100% Vermentino and was vinified and briefly aged in stainless steel tanks. It has alcohol restrained at 13% abv and a retail price of around $20. 

This wine colors up in a light straw tint, and it's a little cloudy. The nose offers minerals and various types of citrus aromas, like lime, orange, and lemon. A strong note of apricot and peach also appears. The palate has stone fruit, citrus, and a good streak of salinity. That savory edge lasts through the rather lengthy finish, while the acidity is brisk. This is a nice wine as an aperitif, but it also pairs well with a spicy shrimp dish. 


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