A Big Grape From Virginia - Petit Manseng

While writing about wine over the past 16 years, I have been fortunate to taste wine from around the world, and from nearly all 50 US states. Mississippi, Oklahoma, Utah, and Wyoming are the only four missing from my American wine itinerary, and I would love to hear from any winemakers in those states.

One of my favorite wine states is Virginia. There is such a wide spread of varieties being grown there. I've sampled Virginia grapes that represent Bordeaux, Burgundy, the Loire, the Rhône, Spain, and Italy. Not to forget, of course, the all-American Norton grape. The good grapes in Virginia are abetted by good winemaking practices, as well.

I was blessed with samples of the winners from the 2025 Governor's Cup event, which started in 1982. A Zoom call featured the makers of the 12 wines which made this year's Governor’s case, the top dozen bottles from the event. Here we have some truly great Petit Manseng.

The 2023 Winery at La Grange Petit Manseng was fermented completely in French oak barrels. The varietal wine is made entirely of estate Petit Manseng grapes, from Catherine's Vineyard. 

Winemaker Seth Chambers says his Petit Manseng is planted on a hill of fill dirt from a construction effort, and he credits the poor soil with making his vines struggle to greatness. This is a big grape in Virginia, different from where I live in California. Alcohol resides at 13.6% abv and the wine retails for $39.

This wine has a rich golden tint in the glass. The nose offers evidence of the oak vinification, but it also carries aromas of stone fruit and a nutty citrus minerality. The palate has an almost racy acidity on top of the apricot, peach, and nectarine notes. The wine finishes long and savory. It will pair well creamy pasta dishes, chicken, or a bowl of rice and beans.

The 2023 Valley Road Vineyards Petit Manseng is a varietal wine that was grown in Valley Road's Mountain Glen Vineyard, in Virginia's Monticello AVA. Winemaker Corry Craighill fermented the wine in neutral oak for the winery's first-ever vintage of the Petit Manseng grape. Alcohol hits 13.5% abv and the retail is just under $31.

This wine has a rich, golden color to it as well. The nose features apricot, lemon, grapefruit aromas, laced with plenty of minerals and a savory salinity. The fruit comes on so strongly that it hits my taste buds as almost sweet. The acidity is fresh and vigorous. On the long finish, that sweet aspect is just noticeable. Pair this wine with shrimp and grits. 

Follow Randy Fuller on X and BlueSky

The Truth - A Great White Blend From Virginia

While writing about wine over the past 16 years, I have been fortunate to taste wine from around the world, and from nearly all 50 US states. Mississippi, Oklahoma, Utah, and Wyoming are the only four missing from my American wine itinerary, and I would love to hear from any winemakers in those states.

One of my favorite wine states is Virginia. There is such a wide spread of varieties being grown there. I've sampled Virginia grapes that represent Bordeaux, Burgundy, the Loire, the Rhône, Spain, and Italy. Not to forget, of course, the all-American Norton grape. The good grapes in Virginia are abetted by good winemaking practices, as well.

I was blessed with samples of the winners from the 2025 Governor's Cup event, which started in 1982. A Zoom call featured the makers of the 12 wines which made this year’s Governor's case, the top dozen bottles from the event. 

The 2023 Veritas Vineyards Monticello White won a prestigious place in the Governor's Case. Winemaker Emily Hodson said, in reference to the plethora of grape varieties in VA, "We didn't find these grapes. These grapes found us." Hodson’s family is in their 25th year in Virginia winemaking. Veritas was featured recently by Wine Enthusiast as a Virginia winery worthy of a visit.

The wine is made up of 50% Chardonnay grapes, 22% Viognier, 17% Sauvignon Blanc, and 11% Petit Manseng, all estate-grown in the Monticello AVA. The grapes all came from varied elevations, soil types and vine age. Different vinification methods were used for the various grape varieties. The juice was fermented in 30% steel and 70% oak, and it aged for ten months in mostly two-year and neutral oak. Alcohol resides at 13.2% abv and the retail price is $35.

This wine has a rich, golden hue in the glass. The nose shows a pronounced oak effect. Aromas of white flowers are joined by peach, golden apple, and a buttery note. The palate has a bright acidity, along with the aforementioned fruit and floral aspects. The finish is quite long and carries that fruit to the wonderful end. I would pair this with roasted chicken, chicken salad, risotto, or any kind of buttery pasta or seafood dish. 

Follow Randy Fuller on X and BlueSky

Tasting Wine at Jefferson Vineyards

There’s been much wine-related writing about Thomas Jefferson over the past decade or so. His love of fine wine, his travels through Europe to feed that love and his own desire to make a great American wine have been well documented. However, it’s hard for me as a modern-day person to overlook the obvious flaws that a man of his stature exhibited in those Colonial days. I'm talking about slaves.

The man for whom my high school was named, the author of the Declaration of Independence, the country's third president - he had issues that were pervasive at the time. He owned people, had them living in squalid rooms on his beautiful estate, had them do the work that the sprawling grounds required while he sat back and enjoyed life. They didn't spend a whole lot of time addressing that at Thomas Jefferson High School in southeast Texas. They didn't spend any time addressing it, as I recall. Perhaps it’s worth noting that the school no longer exists, that a predominantly African-American town still has a school named for Abraham Lincoln, but TJ bit the dust in favor of a more generic name, Memorial High.

So, when I recently visited Monticello in Virginia, I was rather surprised at how matter-of-factly the tour guides deal with the slavery issue, among other shortcomings of Jefferson the man. I was also surprised that his wine obsession wasn’t more thoroughly documented by the docents. I wouldn’t have heard a word about it had I not asked a question during the garden tour.

Down the road from Monticello, a little off the beaten path - or, with a beaten path of its own - lies Jefferson VIneyards. The estate is situated near Charlottesville on land that was given by Jefferson to an Italian viticulturist from Tuscany named Filippo Mazzei. He was reportedly drawn to the U.S. by no less than Ben Franklin and John Adams, and Jefferson wanted him as his neighbor. Jefferson even copped a line from Mazzei for a paper he was writing. I think it went something like, "all men are created equal."

The cozy, wood beamed tasting room at Jefferson Vineyards features a rack full of wines, some of which are estate grown, some of which are not. Here is what was on the tasting menu in June 2017 when I was there.

Chardonnay 2016 - Mostly stainless steel fermentation and aging, with only 5% done in oak. Tropical fruit and apples, with a slight effervescent quality.
Viognier 2016 - White flowers and summer fruit. Nice acidity, aged in oak and steel.
Rosé 2016 - Light salmon color, the result of only six hours of skin contact. An unusual mix of Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc with some Merlot.
Vin Rouge 2015 - Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Very light - earthy, yet sweet, 0.9% residual sugar.  It has an almost tart, plum and pinot noir taste and weight. It sure takes a chill well.
Cabernet Franc 2015 - Nine months aging in 80% neutral oak. It's a little light, with the expected pepper notes somewhat diminished. I was surprised by how unimpressed I was by it..
Merlot 2014 - Very light in color, slight smokiness, nice light cherry palate. A pretty good summer red.
Petit Verdot 2015 - This is a heavier red, deeper in color and not as tannic or bold as usually found n the variety. Cherry notes are a hit with chocolate.
Meritage 2014 - Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Dirty earth, nice savory angle. Rich, but would work with pork. 22 months in oak.
Vin Blanc - This dessert wine has only 4% residual sugar. It's a fairly earthy blend of Traminette, Vidal Blanc, Petit Manseng and other grapes.

Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter

WINE COUNTRY: GEORGIA

The West Coast of the United States gets most of the attention for domestic wine production, but wine is made in all 50 states.  The “Wine Country” series is my effort to taste wine from all the states.  The recent series on Norton wines got me started, with fine efforts from Missouri and Virginia - so fine, we may revisit those states along the way.  This isn’t an alphabetical journey, nor is it ordered geographically. 

Today, we kick off the official “Wine Country” trail where the Norton series ended - in the state of Georgia.

I sampled a Norton wine from Tiger Mountain Vineyards, in Tiger, Georgia.  You can see the article on their Norton wine for more on the vineyard.

Tiger, Georgia is a tiny burg of just over 300 people.  The town sits at about 2,000 feet above sea level at the foot of Tiger Mountain, a 2,856-ft peak in the Blue Ridge Mountains.  Tiger is in Rabun County which has a slogan - "Where Spring Spends The Summer" - indicating a place where the average temperature in January is about 49F and just under 80F in August - very pleasant.  An annual rainfall of over 70 inches no doubt helps the flora along.

One of the treats I’m looking forward to in this series is the opportunity to sample grape varieties which are not readily available to me in California.  The Norton grape is a prime example.  Tiger Mountain also throws a little winemaker love on the Petit Manseng grape.

Petit Manseng 2008 

The white Petit Manseng grape originated in southwestern France.  It is said the wine of this grape was used to baptize Henry IV.  This particular Tiger Mountain wine was entered into the San Francisco World Spirits Competition, where it took a silver medal.  Tiger Mountain’s Petit Manseng has won 11 awards, 5 of them gold.  It sells for $35 from the winery.

Sitting in the glass with a rich, golden color, the smell of this Georgia white wine’s bouquet immediately put me in mind of Chardonnay, then Viognier, then Albariño.  The aromas lean toward green apples, with a nudge toward some tropical fruit which is never fully realized.  There is also the scent of vanilla spice and a trace of nutmeg!  On the palate, a vegetal flavor comes forward first, with spiced apples following; a hint of pepper lingers on the finish.  It’s a full-bodied white wine, with a lively mouthfeel.  The 13.5% alcohol level is moderate and the nearly bracing acidity makes this a wine that pairs well with food.  I had it with a holiday feast of sweet, brown sugar ham, bourbon pecan mashed sweet potatoes and chestnuts on the side.  The Petit Manseng paired well with everything on the plate, especially the ham and the chestnuts.

The next scheduled stop on the Wine Country express is Alabama.  We’ll try some Muscadine from the Deep South.