A Bucking Bronco From Italy

The Bronco Wine Company is widely known as a purveyor of inexpensive wines - think "Two Buck Chuck" and others.  The winery has thousands of acres of vineyard land in California's Central Valley, which is not on the list of great places in the Golden State for grape growing.

I have been aware of Bronco Wines for quite some time, but I never realized they sold wines from other countries.  This one is made in Verona, Italy, the 2019 Poggio Della Robinie Superiore Valpolicello Ripasso.

This wine is a blend of four rather unusual grapes.  The corporate website shows that the breakdown is 60% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 10% Corvinone and 10% Negrara.  I have seen other sites dropping the last two grapes and substituting 20% Molinara.  Whatever grapes they were, they were vinified using the Ripasso technique.  The Ripasso method of making wine involves fermenting on the dried skins of the grapes, then putting the wine away for a year in oaken barrels.  The dried grapes bring a rich and deep flavor to the wine.  Alcohol tips in here at 13.5% abv and I paid $20 for a bottle at my neighborhood Whole Foods Market.

The winery offers tasting notes that give wild cherry as one of the flavors.  That assessment is right on the money.  The red fruit - cherry, red currant - is bright and complex, with a dark, earthy edge pushing in from the side.  It's a darkly tinted wine, with a smooth mouthfeel.  I paired it with a beef tenderloin for our New Year's feast, and it was great.  I also used it in a wine sauce for the meat, and it was superb.

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Amarone Wine From Valpolicella

Amarone wines are made through a process called appassimento, in which harvested grapes are left to dry out for a time before vinification begins, causing the grapes to shrivel considerably, leaving a more concentrated fruit.  The Italian wine guide Gambero Rosso recently held a virtual tour of Italy, in which one important stop was Valpolicella, where Amarone is made.

Speri Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Sant'Urbano 2016

Speri was founded in Valpolicella in 1874 and is now run by the seventh generation of Speris, although the estate dates back to the 16th century.  Valpolicella is in Verona, part of the Veneto region of Italy.  The Speri organic wine is made from grapes grown in three different districts of Veneto, and each vineyard is vinified separately so that each wine is a single-vineyard effort, not just the Amarones.  

The grapes in the 2016 Speri Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Sant'Urbano are 70% Corvina Veronese, 25% Rondinella, and 5% Corvinone.  Winemaker Alberto Speri says the grapes were dried for four months, eliminating more than 40% of their original weight.  Vinification starts in stainless steel tanks, then finishes in oak barrels.  The wine was aged two years in Allier oak tonneaux, plus 18 months in Slavonian barrels and another year in the bottle.

Alcohol is a bit higher than most Italian wines - 15% abv - due to the drying of the grapes.  It sells for around $50.

This dark wine offers aromas of blackberry, vanilla and cedar on the nose, along with a strong sense of minerals.  Dark fruit dominates on the palate, with sweet oak spice, chalky limestone minerality and very firm tannins.  Have a steak with it, or game meat dishes.  

Tenuta Sant’Antonio Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli 2016

Four Brothers - Armando, Tiziano, Paolo and Massimo Castagnedi - established Tenuta Sant'Antonio in 1987, in the heart of Valpolicella.  Paolo is the head winemaker, who turns the estate's Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella Croatina and Oseleta grapes into magic.

The grapes for the 2016 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli came from the town of Mezzane di Sotto, in the Monti Garbi District of Verona.  Those grapes are 70% Corvina and Corvinone, 20% Rondinella, 5% Croatina and 5% Oseleta.  Vinification took place in oak casks, as did the three years of aging, with new oak all around.  The wine's alcohol level sits at 16% abv and it retails for about $60.

This wine has a rather explosive nose - aromas of black cherry and smoke provide an ample backdrop for the balsamic notes that come later.  I get a whiff of smoked meat and a bit of black olive at times, too.  On the palate, the dark fruit is simply luscious, while the taste of licorice hangs around on the lengthy finish.  The tannins seem fairly tame at first sip, but they sharpen up later.  

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Dry Up And Make Amarone

Amarone della Valpolicella is a rich Italian wine made from dried grapes.  The heightened  flavors, aromas, color and tannins of Amarone owe everything to its production technique.  A bottle of Masi Costasera Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2009, was provided by a public relations firm for review.

Masi owner Raffaele Boscaini is the seventh generation to run his family's wine estate.  The Masi website calls Amarone a "modern wine with an ancient heart."  It is imported in the US by Kobrand.  The wine has a slightly higher alcohol content than many wines - 15% abv - and it retails for $63.

Senior editor Alison Napjus, of Wine Spectator, says, "What’s impressive about Amarone is that it's a wine that can be enjoyed in its youth - it's very personable - and it also has the capacity to age, and a lot of that has to do with the production technique, appassimento."

In appassimento, the bunches of grapes - Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara - are placed in trays to dry out.  They spend several months in this drying process.  The grapes are left lighter and more concentrated after the loss of that water weight.

The  2009 Costasera Amarone della Valpolicella Classico had a broken cork, but it was pushed down into the bottle without much of a problem and with no serious floaties.  The palate shows beautiful dried meat and dried fruit, roasted coffee beans, cherry, black olive and spices - mainly clove.  The tannins are quite prominent, as is everything else about this wine which Will Not Be Ignored.  It really overmatched the pasta and red sauce, but hit a good mark with the Buffalo Gorgonzola.  However, drinking this wine with cheese is like using a Ferrari to drive the two blocks to the store.  Have a steak.


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Bertani Amarone Vertical Tasting & Luncheon

It was a good afternoon in Beverly Hills.  More than once, I heard that comment from attendees at a lunch and vertical tasting of Bertani Amarone at Via Alloro on November 1, 2013.  "Skip cleaning the apartment for a vertical tasting of Amarone?  Sure!  Oh, there's lunch, too?  Cool.  Where are we going next?"  Many thanks to Palm Bay International for staging this event and for inviting me to attend.

Winemaker and Bertani technical director Andrea Lonardi (pictured) presided over a tasting six Amarone vintages from the Bertani estate covering five decades: 2006, 1998, 1990, 1981, 1973, 1964.  Bertani holds back half of all production of their wines from each vintage, so each of these wines is currently available for sale in the US.  There were a few other Bertani wines included, too, as if the vertical wasn't enough.

Things got rolling with an introductory mingle featuring many wine people, iPhones ablazing.  Pictures, notes, exchange of business cards were conducted while enjoying the Bertani Bertarose Rosé.

Lonardi studied in the south of France, worked in Argentina, Chile, Washington state and Sonoma before taking the job with Bertani.  I asked him where his dream vineyards would be: "Burgundy for Chardonnay, Bordeaux for Cabernet Franc and southern France for Grenache," he said.

Techniques have changed over past 50 years.  Lonardi says they used to harvest in October, but now do so in September due to climate change.  Their grapes get at least three months of drying time between harvest and crush.  They still dry grapes just like they did 50 years ago, on straw mats.

Bertani was founded in 1857 by two brothers.  They became négociants around Verona, then bought vineyards in Valpollicella and started growing their own.  The first of their wines brought to the US was labeled SECCO BERTONI to differentiate it from the sweet wines popular in that day.

Amarone's slight bitterness is delightful, and it's the reason for its name.  "Amaro" means "bitter" in Italian.  The style was first made when the cellar master forgot to stop fermentation on a sweet wine.  It came out dry, and it was good.  A tradition was born completely by accident.

Bertani's vineyards stretch out across all the wine producing areas of Verona, from Valpolicella to the Valpntena - the valley of the gods - to lakeside Bardolino to the easternmost hills of Soave.  The different soil types in these areas allow the winery to express a number of different terroirs in their wines.

The Amarone vertical:

Overall, I found the alcohol and tannic structure became more noticeable as we drank through the years.  Fruit also comes more to the forefront in the younger vintages.  Lonardi's favorite is the '73.  I like 'em all, but the two oldest really fascinated me.  The prices are suggested retail.

1964 Amarone Classico  $450
Vintage report: The spring was wet, while the summer was dry, as were September and October.
This wine aged for 18 years in large Slavonian oak barrels and was bottle in the fall of 1983.  15% abv.
Brick, with a browning edge.  Lonardi commented, "The '64 is really outstanding today."  Elegant, with a nose of raisins, orange peel, coffee and caramel.  On the palate, the wine is very easy in the mouth.  The alcohol isn't even noticeable.  Spices and cherry fruit are subdued by iron-like minerals.

1973 Amarone Classico  $300
Vintage report: Ideal temperature and rainfall during spring and summer.
Aged nine years in large Slavonian oak barrels, this one was bottled in the spring of 1983.  15% abv.
Brick colored, browning at the rim.  The nose shows raisin and candied orange peel.   Again, elegant.  An easy feeling palate with big coffee notes and alcohol again not a factor.  More high mineral flavors. Absolutely no trace of alcohol on the palate, very easy to sip.

1981 Amarone Classico  $230
Vintage report: Average rainfall.  August and September were hot.
After nine years aging in those Slavonian oak barrels, the wine was bottled in the spring of 1991.  15.2% abv.  Red color, brick rim.  Raisins and sweeter notes of brown sugar and dark chocolate grace the nose, while flavors of dark chocolate, coffee, black tea and orange peel highlight the palate.  Tannic structure firm.  Alcohol starts to come into play.  Paired with mushroom risotto, the raisin notes really come forward.

1990 Amarone Classico  $300
Vintage report: Ideal season.  Rain in the spring, warm, dry summer.
This vintage took six years aging in Slavonian oak and was bottled in the fall of 1999.  15% abv.
Ruby, with a brick edge.  Candy orange, cherry and baker's chocolate on the nose.  Big cherry notes, black tea and a hint of raisins on the palate.  Big fresh tannins are more noticeable, great acidity, grip on the finish.

1998 Amarone Classico  $190
Vintage report: Average temperatures and rainfall in the spring, hot in July, August and September.
This wine aged for six years in Slavonian oak and was bottled in the spring of 2005.
Deep ruby core, brick rim.  Aromas of raisin, cherry, tea and coffee grounds.  The palate features a brilliant acidity with bright cherry flavors and black tea on the finish.  Alcohol steps forward, great tannic structure.  Nice and dry.

2006 Amarone Classico  $130
Vintage report: Normal rainfall during the spring and no rain in July.  Frequent light rain in the first half of August.
The wine aged for six years in oak and was bottled in the of winter 2012.  15.4% abv.
Ruby, just starting to brick at the rim.  It's all big, bright cherry on the nose with slight raisin notes and a touch of tea.  On the palate, fresh cherry, firm tannins and lively acidity make for a very vibrant wine. Notes of coffee and tea finish the pleasure.

The other Bertani wines included in the presentation:

Bertarose Rosé  $15 - Copper hue. pleasant strawberry nose, palate light, dry and refreshing, great acidity
50% Merlot and 50% Molinara., fermented on the skins

Sereole Soave $20 - 100% Garganega, straw, green tint.  On the nose, nutty salinity, wet rocks.  Palate shows tart peach, lovely acidity, herbal, salinity. Great with the radicchio and arugula salad. Stood up well to the radicchio.

Original Vintage Edition 2009 $32 - A replication of the first Bertani wine produced in the 1800s.  It is made from 80% original Corvina clones (Rizza, Nera and Corvinone) with a 20% mix of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and and Syrah.  Aged in chestnut and cherry wood, not oak.  First in cherry 2-5 months, then in chestnut to 18 months.  The nose shows spices and cherries with bright, fresh cherry flavors.  A touch of cinnamon and nutmeg are a delight.  Great acidity and tannic grip.

Villa Arvedi Amarone 2008 $60 - 70% Corvina Veronese and 30% Rondinella, the wine is produced in true Amarone style.  the grape bunches are harvested and taken to farmhouses where they are left to dry on straw mats for about four months.  This raisins the grapes and concentrates the natural sugars.  Aromas are highlighted by dark black cherry, with flavors of really savory cherry and huge tannins on the palate.  Great with the lamb shank.

Recionoto della Valpolicella Valpantena DOC $37 - 80% Corvina Veronese and 20% Rondinella, this dessert wine is produced Amarone-style and left to dry on straw mats for about five months, then slow fermented for about a month.  Aging takes place for 18 months in French oak barriques, half of them new.  It has a big, sweet nose of raisins and brown sugar and an even sweeter palate showing raisins, caramel and mocha.  It rocked the warm chocolate tart completely.


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LE BINE VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE RIPASSO 2008 AT VIA ALLORO

The Drago family operates a number of fine Italian restaurants in Los Angeles - so many it's difficult to get around to all of them. Via Alloro in Beverly Hills had been on my list for some time, and a Saturday afternoon "park-and-dine" experience afforded me the perfect opportunity to have lunch there.

"Park-and-dine" is a method Denise and I resort to occasionally that helps us deal with the frustration of trying to find a parking space near a restaurant where we'd like to dine.  Due to the fact that so many Los Angeles parking meters are taken over by valets these days - and we don't do the valet thing - we will simply find a place to park, then look for a restaurant near the parking space.  As backward as that is, we have actually found many good restaurants through the "park-and-dine" method.

We parked in Beverly Hills on the way to another restaurant, and passed Via Alloro on the way there.  I suggested we cut the walk short and find a table.

Via Alloro is a Tanino Drago establishment.  Good Italian food - as expected - comes simple and rustic, just the way we like it.  I ordered the Le Bine Valpolicella Ripasso by Giuseppe Campagnola on recommendation of our server, and I liked it.

Dark in color with a lighter purple ring at the edge, the wine shows dark leathery cherry and raspberry aromas, while the taste is full bodied and mellow.  Soft tannins make it a great sip and nice acidity make a good choice for food.  It went very well with my risotto with sausage and broccoli despite the "greenness" of the dish.  The wine is $12 by the glass.

MONTE ZOVO VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO 2007

Birthday month rolls on for Denise, and we dropped in on Il Buco again.  I've mentioned them before, with good reason.  The food is excellent, the service is unfailingly pleasant and the wine list is very Italian and fairly deep.  It's no surprise, then, that we ended up there for birthday lunch.

I went with a sausage dish and decided to have a red wine.  I asked the waiter for a good choice, and he pointed me in the direction of a California Meritage, Malibu, in fact.  I would like to try that wine, but as I explained to him, when I go to Il Buco, I like to go Italian.  He immediately suggested this Valpolicella, and I said that it would be fine.

The Monte Zovo Ripasso is the sort of wine I have come to expect from Il Buco, very Italian, a bit rustic and a great match with the food they make.  It's from the Valpolicella region of Veneto in the northeastern part of Italy.

The grapes used are Corvina (70%), Rondinella (20%) and Molinara (10%).  I'm told Ripasso means "second pressing," indicating the juice is re-fermented on the skins used in making Amarone, which is a "first-pressing" wine.  It's fairly hefty at 14% abv, yet it feels only medium full in the mouth.  It's a deep garnet color with a demomstrative nose of black cherry and blackberry.
 
The palate shows some dry, dusty, brambly notes which are suggestive of an old-vine Zinfandel.  The flip side of that coin is the freshness that this wine carries with it.  It spends two years in oak, yet the wood seems not to leave its mark as indelibly as it might with other grapes.

I enjoyed this wine with the farfalle and sausage plate.  The pairing was excellent.