Spring starts on March 20th this year. That knowledge plus the weather turning a shade warmer in Southern California today put me in mind of some of the wines I thoroughly enjoyed last spring and summer. And autumn, for that matter.
Ecclestone, from the Tangent Winery in California's Edna Valley region, is one of my favorites for when the last vestiges of winter have gone away for a while. Tangent is an offshoot of Baileyana Winery. You might expect a winery which specializes in white wines - and which has "tangent" as its name - to vary from the mainstream occasionally. They do. This "alternative white wine" utilizes so many varieties, it could be named "Pinot Kitchen Sink." Pinot Gris, Viognier, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Muscat and Albarino all combine to produce this unique and fascinating wine.
There is a very modern flair to the label with clean lines a crisp design. Remember those descriptive words. They'll come in handy later when describing the wine.
Ecclestone's nose is gorgeous. It's full of flowers. It has one of the most intensely floral bouquets I can remember. Orange blossom is billed, but to my nose it's more like honeysuckle with a splash of orange. If you recall the intensity of the smell when walking near a honeysuckle, the first sniff of this wine is much like that. Try to serve it only moderately chilled, as those floral notes really explode when not fully refrigerated.
The flowers don't quit after you smell them. There is a floral carpet laid upon the palate as well, one which I welcome each time I experience it. Citrus notes are here, along with a clean and crisp minerality that braces and refreshes. There's a stony quality to the minerals that comes through, as opposed to chalky. I love this wine on the deck on a nice warm afternoon. It refreshes in much the same way a cold, hoppy ale does. It just seems made for the sunshine. The acidity is certainly there, too, so don't think this is just a sipper. Serve it with salads, Kalamata olives, mild cheddar or a nice plate of scallops.
Variety: Pinot Gris, Viognier, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Muscat and Albarino
Appellation: California > Central Coast > San Luis Obispo > Edna Valley
Vintage: 2007
Alcohol Level: 13.5% abv
Price: $20
Acquisition disclaimer: Purchased by the author
The Bottle: A beautiful clear bottle shows off the pale color nicely. On the front we learn that the grapes come from the Santa Rita Hills, Courtney's Vineyard, specifically. On the back we learn how wonderful the growing conditions are in Santa Barbara County for Pinot Blanc. They say it has something to do with the long, dry growing season. The wine shows an abv of 13.6%.
The Nose: I drank the wine quite chilled (it was a hot day) and as a result, many aromas were not within my reach. I thought there was some melon there, and the minerals made a nice play in the bouquet.
The Taste: Very refined, this wine. A clean and crisp feel in the mouth, along with just enough acidity, produces a tendency to gulp. But try to slow down and savor. Good minerals are here, with lots of wet rocks in the first part of the mouthful. Then a wave of pears and apples comes in, very crisp, not baked. Some lightly nutty flavors come in at the end. Very refined, indeed. This is a delicate wine that gives a wonderful drinking experience and a nice finish, too.
The Bottle: It may come in a Bordeaux bottle, but this white wine is all Italian. Made from Trebbiano and Grechetto grapes, this Umbrian mainstay is named for the Village where it was made. The abv is 12%. I seem to remember it was a real steal, right around $5.
The Nose: Orvieto has a warmer climate in central Italy and chalky, limestone-laden soil that imparts a serious terroir to the wine. If you are a fan of dry whites that have minerals to spare, an Orvieto may be a good choice for you. I get a nose full of minerality when I smell it, along with a hint of citrus. By the way, coloring is very pale and there are a few bubbles clinging to the glass.
The Taste: Very earthy and tangy, this Orvieto is a basic, no-frills Italian white wine. Dry as a bone and quite refreshingly crisp, it's a wine that begs for food. Let me correct that. It's a wine that begs for scallops in a butter sauce. It's a wine that begs for shrimp scampi. It's a wine that begs for crab cakes. Sure, you could sip it on the porch and it would serve you very well. But look around you. Is the grill nearby? Fire it up and throw some skewered shrimp on there. The Orvieto will thank you.
The Bottle: This Tuscan winery sources grapes from the Umbrian city of Orvieto. A $10 wine, it's composed of 50% Procanico, 30% Grechetto, 10% Verdello and 10% Canaiolo Bianco.
The Nose: A pale yellow-green tint barely colors the wine. The nose is floral and fruity, with pear and apple most noticeable.
The Taste: In the mouth, this Orvieto is delicious and well-structured, a very drinkable wine. A clean minerality is present. The finish is great. It's a really nice sipping wine, but it's even better with food. It paired nicely with my sea scallops from the grill, and the lettuce, tomato and shaved parmesan salad. The place where this wine really earns its keep is with cheese. Had it with a bleu, Parmesan and baby Swiss, and it brought out the best in each of the cheeses.
The Bottle: A slim Burgundy bottle belies the wine inside. No big, fat, overblown Chardonnay bottle here. This lean, unoaked wine gets a container that's lean, too. Chamisal Vineyards - formerly Domaine Alfred - is in California's Central Coast appellation, near San Luis Obispo and Edna Valley, home to some very fine white wines. The abv on the label states 14.1%. I'm ready for the pure taste of Chardonnay.
The Nose: Pure fruit, no oak at all. This is a really beautiful smelling wine. Apples seem to dominate for me, but there's a tropical or citrus angle at play, too. The aromas are quite vibrant, giving me the impression the taste will be amazingly fruity.
The Taste: Apples, then peaches, then a zippy, zesty flavor on the finish give my taste buds an E-ticket ride. The acidity is quite nice; not overwhelming, but definitely able to handle some swordfish or cod. The finish is rather lengthy, and the clean, crisp minerals linger after the fruit has finally faded.
