A Bold Red Wine From Southern Italy

At the Mastroberardino winery in Campania, tenth-generation vintner Piero Mastroberardino heads the estate, which was founded in 1878. He was a pioneer, and he works with winemaker Massimo di Renzo. Before 1990, they were the only winery exporting this wine. Fifteen years later, there are nearly 300 producers in the Taurausi DOCG. 

The family has also been active in ampelography, identifying and preserving ancient varieties like Greco and Fiano. Piero's father, Antonio, is often called "The Grape Archaeologist."

The Mastroberardino Radici Taurasi 2020 is a wine which could benefit from spending a lot of time in the cellar. Experts in the field say the Radici Taurasi could easily age for three decades, maybe more. Already, this wine has aged in French and Slovenian oak for two years, with another 24 months in the bottle. The Riserva ages even longer. The grapes are 100% Aglianico from the volcanic soil of Campania.

Radici, which means roots in Italian, has alcohol at 13.5% abv and the price lists at $64, but I see it online in the $35 range.

This wine is extremely dark in color, almost black. Aromas of blackberry, plum, and cassis dominate the nose, with a peppery note also in play. Cedar and vanilla are present, too. The cork, in fact, is one of the most aromatic corks I have ever sniffed. Black fruit defines the palate. Earthy mineral tones give the wine a savory aspect. Tannins are bold, even after decanting. Pair it with a robust meat, like lamb or game. 

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Three Terrific White Wines From Campania

Irpinia is the historical name of the province of Avellino, inland in the Campania Apennines. That is the place that the Feudi di San Gregorio winery calls home. They are quick to note that they identify with Irpinia, not Campania. The winery was established by two families in 1986.

At Feudi di San Gregorio, they believe that a bottle of wine and a work of art arrive through the same creative process. They try to show the artistic side of the wine biz, with their labels all designed by Massimo Vignelli and a winery design from Hikaru Mori.

The 2020 Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina carries the Sannio appellation and is made from 100% Falanghina grapes, aged in stainless steel tanks for five months, on the lees. Alcohol is quite restrained at only 13% abv and wine sells for around $23.

Despite the inland origin of the grapes, this wine smells like the seashore, with some nectarines, apricots and citrus thrown into the mix. The palate offers a showcase of minerality, with Meyer lemon and stone fruit trailing behind. Acidity is fresh and racy, perfect for pairing with a seafood dish, oysters in particular.

The 2020 Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo comes, naturally, from the Greco di Tufo appellation. The grapes are 100% Greco variety and the wine clocks in at 12.5% abv.  It retails for $28.

This beautiful white wine also carries with it a whiff of the sea, much like its cousin, Feudi di San Gregorio's Falanghina. The stone fruit comes across a little stronger on the nose, but the minerality and salinity fall right in line. This wine shows a less sharp acidity and would seem to be better suited to salad than seafood. It is, however, a delicious sipper.

The 2019 Feudi di San Gregorio Fiano di Avellino carries the Fiano di Avellino appellation. It is made from 100% Fiano grapes and has alcohol at 13% abv. Retail is $28.

The straw yellow wine shows stone fruit and salinity on the nose. The palate is savory, with a ton of minerals and a hint of apricot and lemon. The acidity is racy and the long finish is all minerality.

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