A Bold Red Wine From Southern Italy

At the Mastroberardino winery in Campania, tenth-generation vintner Piero Mastroberardino heads the estate, which was founded in 1878. He was a pioneer, and he works with winemaker Massimo di Renzo. Before 1990, they were the only winery exporting this wine. Fifteen years later, there are nearly 300 producers in the Taurausi DOCG. 

The family has also been active in ampelography, identifying and preserving ancient varieties like Greco and Fiano. Piero's father, Antonio, is often called "The Grape Archaeologist."

The Mastroberardino Radici Taurasi 2020 is a wine which could benefit from spending a lot of time in the cellar. Experts in the field say the Radici Taurasi could easily age for three decades, maybe more. Already, this wine has aged in French and Slovenian oak for two years, with another 24 months in the bottle. The Riserva ages even longer. The grapes are 100% Aglianico from the volcanic soil of Campania.

Radici, which means roots in Italian, has alcohol at 13.5% abv and the price lists at $64, but I see it online in the $35 range.

This wine is extremely dark in color, almost black. Aromas of blackberry, plum, and cassis dominate the nose, with a peppery note also in play. Cedar and vanilla are present, too. The cork, in fact, is one of the most aromatic corks I have ever sniffed. Black fruit defines the palate. Earthy mineral tones give the wine a savory aspect. Tannins are bold, even after decanting. Pair it with a robust meat, like lamb or game. 

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