A Grape In Trouble

The Arbois AOC is in Jura, in the French hills north of Revermont. Jura gets its name from the Jura mountain range, which extends into Switzerland. The Poulsard grape is grown primarily in Jura's clay soil, which has a high marl content. As red grapes go, Poulsard has very low levels of the phenol containing color. This means we get a pale red wine, a rosé, or even a white wine. Don't let the lack of color cool you. Poulsard has a very vibrant flavor.

Lou Amdur, of Lou Wine Shop in the Los Feliz area of Los Angeles, told me that he is worried about the Poulsard grape. Once the most widely planted grape in Jura, it is now in second place. It is difficult to grow, as it tends to bud early and is susceptible to frost. Amdur says the 2023 yield was cut nearly in half due to hot weather. This fragility, combined with shifting trends in the wine industry, is what has him wondering how much longer we will have Poulsard wines readily available.

The 2023 Domaine Ligier Arbois Poulsard has alcohol at 13% abv and sells for about $25.

This wine does color up lightly, a bit darker than a rosado but lighter than a Pinot Noir. The nose is powerful, herbal and earthy, with a funky note thrown in to keep it fun. There's raspberry, strawberry, and cherry aplenty. The palate is fruity, but it has a savory edge to it. Acidity is zippy and the tannins are serviceable. I would have it with chicken, pork, even a piece of fish. 

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