COLLINE NOVARESI NEBBIOLO 2007 AT IL BUCO

Italian food calls for Italian wine, and that's a rule I try not break - ever.  Fortunately, one of my favorite Italian restaurants, Il Buco, has a wine list with a whole page of Italian wines that never disappoint.

Colline Novaresi D.O.C. is in Piedmont, in extreme northwestern Italy.  The Nebbiolo grapes used in this wine are farmed biodynamically in Fontechiara vineyards.  The wine is 100% Nebbiolo and has a 13.5% abv number.  It shows a deep and beautiful red color in the glass, quite dark in fact.  When you pick up the glass, that's when the fun begins.

One whiff and I was sold.  This Nebbiolo has such a rich aroma I just sat and smelled it for quite some time.  A floral smell leaps out first, and is quickly joined by notes of tar.  Finally, I start to sense the fruit and realized it was there all along.  It makes me think of black plums that have been trampled into the earth underneath the tree where they fell.

Then, on the first sip, I expect it to be a bit tannic.  It's not, though.  It's very smooth, and the fruit really shines through.  Blackberry and black cherry flavors are almost candied.  There's licorice, too.  The flavors keep reminding me of Port.  The wine is so juicy and complex I can only marvel at it.  By now, I expect the finish to be lengthy - and it is.  The flavors linger through a moment of reflection and the next bite of farfalle with sauage and peas.  It's one of my favorite dishes at Il Buco in Beverly Hills, but this time it takes a back seat to the wine.

By the way, Il Buco has this Colline Novaresi Nebbiolo for eight dollars by the glass.  With a nose and a palate like this, it's one of the better bargains I've encountered recently.

DEEP SEA SEA FLOWER DRY ROSE 2008

A nice, balmy evening - somewhat the rarity in the Los Angeles neighborhood called Laurel Canyon - lured the Now And Zin family out onto the deck for an after-work wine.  We knocked off the remainder of a white blend, then cracked open the Deep Sea "Sea Flower" Dry Rosé.
This Central Coast pink is produced by Conway Vineyards of Santa Maria, CA.  The Rancho Arroyo grapes - 67% Syrah, 33% Grenache - yield a deep pink color and a nose of strawbery gummy bears and roses.  On the palate are tons of strawberry and raspberry in a very jammy concentration.  There's a mouthful of acidity, too. That means you can expect good results when serving this wine with food.  There were only 372 cases produced.  If you can't find it there is a new vintage just released.  I tasted the 2009 Sea Flower recently and found it to be just as tasty and mouth-watering as the '08.

Ed.- I didn’t get a bottle shot while we were enjoying it, and the image shown is all I found the next day.

ELIZABETH ROSE ROSE 2009 AT IL FORNO CALDO

A beautiful sunny lunch in Beverly Hills always puts me in the mood for a rosé.  Such was the case at Il Forno Caldo, a favorite lunch spot for the wife and me.  I can't remember which salad I ordered, but I won't soon forget the wine.

Elizabeth Rose rosé is a beautiful Napa Valley pink made from organically grown grapes in Yountville and Oakville, CA.  93% Syrah, 5% Cinsault and 2% Grenache are blended to create a rosé that's complex and delightful.  Its alcohol level is 13% and it cost $9 per glass.

Deep strawberry pink in color, this wine is absolutely gorgeous to look at.  The nose is very big, with watermelon Jolly Rancher in the forefront with a raspberry note.  There's a green, vegetal aroma in there, too, maybe bell pepper.  The taste is exceptional.  Dry and fruity, there's a truckload of strawberry and cherry flavors that are as fresh as the garden.  The acidity is crisp and the finish is completely satisfying.

BODEGAS SALENTEIN FINCA EL PORTILLO MALBEC ROSE 2008 AT MALBEC

It's always a pleasure to discover a fantastic restaurant, particularly one with a great wine list.  Mrs. Now And Zin and I are putting Malbec Argentinean Bistro on our go-to list.

This Toluca Lake restaurant, just a stone's throw from Burbank, has one of the most authentic wine lists I've seen.  An Italian Sauvignon Blanc and Veuve Clicquot were the only non-Argentine entries I spotted on the list, which offers about fifty wines - a dozen or so by the glass, none of which costs more than $10 per glass.

Mrs. Now And Zin, also known as Denise Fondo, has a more complete description of the food at I Cook The World.  She does a much better job than I do when describing food.  For now, suffice it to say we fell in love with the place.

As for the wine, it felt like a rosé day, so I chose the Finca El Portillo Malbec Rose.  It's a 100% Malbec wine which is stainless steel fermented and brings 14% abv to the table.  The grapes are estate-farmed in Mendoza's Uco Valley.  It cost $7.50 per glass.

The color is great - a rich, ruby red that's very appealing in the glass.  Fresh aromas of cherries and strawberries growing in the garden dominate the nose, while the palate offers flavors - just as fresh - of watermelon and strawberry.  The mouthfeel is of medium weight and very clean.  There's a sense of citrus on the finish which left me with the memory of a spring day.  Oh, and it's bone-dry.  It was great with the grilled chicken and the skirt steak.

ORTMAN FAMILY LAUNCHES NEW WINE SERIES

Paso Robles' Ortman Family has a new tier of wines which appears to be designed to attract the adventurous and cost-conscious millennial demographic.

The O² Series reflects the family's pursuit of wine varieties different from their mainstay Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon offerings.  Chuck Ortman has been making wine for 40 vintages, and his son, Matt, is leading the way on this new effort.

The new lineup features an eye-catching label that runs along the bottle at an angle, and is designed to be an affordable complement to the winery’s founding tier of limited-production wines from single vineyards.

The inaugural O² Series wines are the 2009 Chardonnay Central Coast ($18; 959 cases), 2008 Sangiovese Paso Robles ($20; 517 cases) and 2007 Cuvée Eddy San Luis Obispo County ($20; 1,500 cases; red Rhône-style blend).

I had a chance to sample the Cuvee Eddy at the 2010 Rhone Rangers event in Santa Monica.  It's a blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Petite Sirah.  I noted at the time that it has a brilliant cherry nose and is juicy and easy to drink.

WHAT KIND OF WINE BUYER ARE YOU?

In a 2008 study of wine consumers, Constellation Wines broke out the wine-buying public into six separate groups.  Do you fit into one of these segments?

It’s worth noting - and rather sad - that the largest of these groups of wine consumers feel overwhelmed in the wine aisle.  The second largest group views wine as a status symbol.  Do you see a market segment from this study in which you fit?  Are you surprised by any of the findings?  Please feel free to leave a comment on the blog if you’d like to share your opinions on how people buy wine.

ENTHUSIASTS (12 percent of consumers)
• Entertain at home with friends and consider themselves knowledgeable about wine
• Live in cosmopolitan centers, affluent suburban spreads or comfortable country settings
• Like to browse the wine section, publications and are Influenced by wine ratings & reviews
• 47% of Enthusiasts buy wine in 1.5L size – “everyday wine” to supplement their “weekend wine”
• 98% of Enthusiasts buy wine over $6 and it accounts for 56% of what they buy on a volume basis

IMAGE SEEKERS (20 percent of consumers)
• View wine as a status symbol
• Have a basic knowledge of wine and discovering wines is new to them
• Likes to be the first to try a new wine, and are open to innovative packaging
• The number one most purchased varietal Merlot
• Use the Internet as key information source including checking restaurant wine lists before they dine out

SAVVY SHOPPERS (15 percent of consumers)
• Enjoy shopping for wine and discovering new varietals on their own
• Have a few favorite wines to supplement new discoveries
• Shop in a variety of stores each week to find best deals and like specials and discounts
• Heavy coupon users and know what’s on sale before they walk into a store
• When dining out they typically buy a glass of the house because of the value

TRADITIONALIST (16 percent of consumers)
• Enjoy wines from established wineries
• Think wine makes an occasion more formal and prefer entertaining friends and family at home to going out
• Like to be offered a wide variety of well-known national brands
• Won’t often try new wine brands
• Shop at retail locations that make it easy to find favorite brands

SATISFIED SIPPERS (14 percent of consumers)
• Don’t know much about wine, just know what they like to drink
• Usually buy the same brand, usually domestic and consider wine an everyday beverage
• Don’t enjoy the wine-buying experience so buy 1.5L bottles to have more wine on hand
• Second-biggest category of warehouse shoppers, buying 16 percent of wine in club stores
• Don’t dine out often but likely to order the house wine when they do

OVERWHELMED (23 percent of consumers)
• Overwhelmed by sheer volume of choices on store shelves
• Like to drink wine but don’t know what kind to buy and may select by label
• Looking for wine information in retail settings that’s easy to understand
• Very open to advice but frustrated when there is no one in the wine section to help
• If information is confusing they won’t buy anything at all

This information comes from Constellation Wines’ Project Genome - Home and Habits.

GREEN FLASH BREWING COMPANY IMPERIAL INDIA PALE ALE

When I lived in San Diego in the mid-'90s, one of my favorite late afternoon hangouts was a restaurant in Pacific Beach called Armando's The Green Flash.  What I liked best about the place was sitting at the bar near sunset with ceviche and an I.P.A.  Looking right out over the Pacific Ocean I tried over and over to see the elusive green flash - the flash of green light that occurs at the exact spot and the exact time the sun sets into the water.  I think I saw it, but maybe I just let myself believe I did.  Either way, the ceviche was outstanding and so was the I.P.A.

Green Flash Brewing Company is not affiliated with the restaurant.  I don't know if they take their name from the atmospheric phenomenon or from a superhero, and it doesn't matter to me.  They brew some truly great beer in Vista, CA, just a little bit up the coast from San Diego.

The Green Flash Imperial India Pale Ale is a rocking good beer.  Deep amber in color, it looks great in the glass.  The nose is extremely hoppy, bursting with floral notes and showing a twist of citrus.  The taste is also full of flowers with a broad lemon streak and a slight hint of almond.  This I.P.A. has a wonderfully creamy texture in the mouth - very full and opulent.  It's definitely a "desert island" beer, and there are few brews I enjoy as much on a warm afternoon while awaiting the green flash.

WILLIAM SHERER, MASTER SOMMELIER

The Taste of Beverly Hills was just getting underway for the first Saturday session, when I found myself drawn into one of the giant tasting halls.  There were hundreds of foods and wines I wanted to taste and quite a few things I wanted to see at this event.  There were only a few people I knew I wanted to meet, and William Sherer was one of them.  And it was Sherer who greeted me at the very first stop I made that morning.

Sherer was there promoting his line of wine, Iberian Remix.  "Want to taste some Albariño?" he asked as I approached the table.  Still a little sleepy, smiling with rumpled shirttail out, he seems to be the living, walking definition of "affable," not what many might expect a genuine wine expert to look or act like.

Accomplished

Sherer has spent the last five years as Wine Director at Aureole, Charlie Palmer's restaurant in the Mandalay Bay Hotel and Casino in Las Vegas.  He has also spent time walking restaurant floors in Monterey, San Francisco and New York City, and he earned the James Beard award for Wine Service in 2006.

What really dazzles, though, is the fact that Sherer has accomplished something only 170 people in the world can lay claim to - he's a Master Sommelier, a certified, card-carrying wine geek.  It's not an easy status to acheive.  The Court of Master Sommeliers puts it this way:

"Achieving the distinction of Master Sommelier takes years of preparation and an unwavering commitment.  The Court’s intensive educational program guides aspiring Masters through four increasingly rigorous levels of coursework and examination, culminating in the Master Sommelier Diploma Examination."

That final step is by invitation only, after one has completed the other four levels.  I asked Sherer about the difficulty of the road to becoming a MS.

"Yeah, it's hard, and I passed it twelve years ago.  It's actually harder to do today, due to the expansion of the wine world in general.  There's a lot more to know today."  He's certainly in the right place for a person with such status.  The Court of Master Sommeliers cites Vegas as a popular location for those who belong to this exclusive club.  In fact, Las Vegas has more Master Sommeliers than any other city.  "Out of the fifteen that are here, probably only four work on the restaurant floor," he said.  "There rest do other things - administrative directors, wholesale, import.  What I do is a rarity, even in a small field like this.  A lot of people don't want to work nights, or just have other interests."

Remixed

Sherer himself has other interests, a white one and a red one.  He calls his Iberian Remix wines "California wines from Spanish varieties."  This notion was his answer to an importer who once told him Albariño grown in America wouldn't work.  "He said we didn't have anything like the cold, Atlantic climate of Galicia," Sherer continues, "and that anyone who tried to make an Iberian-style wine with American grapes was destined to fail.  I want to prove that person wrong."

Sherer uses Albariño grapes from Edna Valley's Paragon Vineyard and Tempranillo, Grenache and Carignan from the Central Coast for his red blend.  "The whole thing would not have happened had I not found the grapes that were available," he said.  "Growers appeared who found that they had planted too much of the grapes I needed.  I was happy to help relieve them of some."

"Iberian Remix is not a recreation of the Spanish originals, but that doesn't mean they're not high-quality wines.  And they're true California wines.  Even the label design evokes 'Endless Summer.'"

What's next on the horizon for Sherer?  "Austrian wines," he says, not missing a beat.  "I'll call them Danube Remix.  A Grüner Veltliner for sure.  Those grapes will be harvested this year and the wine will be released in early 2011.  The Grüner is fresh and aromatic, like the Albariño, but with a little more complexity and palate weight.  I might do a Blaufränkisch, too.  The labels for the Danube Remix will evoke the work of Austrian artist Gustave Klimt."

Aureole

Sherer's position as Wine Director at Aureole/Mandalay Bay puts him in charge of one of the most incredible wine storage systems in existence.  "It's a four-story wine tower holding 10,000 bottles - and that's just the young reds," he said.  I chuckle, but he's not joking.  "We keep the whites and the vintage wines in a different area.  Our wine angels get up and down the tower on cables to retrieve specific bottles."

"My predecessor installed the tablet PC wine list eight years ago, but it's not something that will allow a customer to surf the web for information about the wines, and that's by design.  We like to be able to interact one-on-one with a diner and offer our assistance personally.  You can always go online at home and look at the wine list.

Certainly, Sherer envisions a time when walking the restaurant floor will no longer be what he wants to do.  What happens then?  "Willi's Wine Bar!" he says with a big laugh.  "Actually there are already two places by that name - in Paris and Santa Rosa - so I guess I'll have to come up with something else."  I suggest "Willi's Remix," and he roars again, telling me he'll take it under advisement.

LUIS FELIPE EDWARDS ROSA BLANCA AT SOUTH POINT

The food is great at South Point Argentine Grill on Sunset Boulevard, and Mrs. Now And Zin loves it, so we dine there quite often.  The half chicken with rice is fabulous, the Patagonia salad is great and their sausage is to die for.  I have issues, however, with the way they serve red wine.  In the glass, it's often almost warm to the touch, and that's too warm.  To quote my friend, Art, "When you serve wine at room temperature, the room should be a cave, not the kitchen."  I'm sure you agree.

So c’mon South Point, get the wine right!  And while you're at it, straighten out the music.  South American folk one time, classic rock the next, blaring ranchera on this visit - I'd like to know what to expect when I come to your restaurant.

On our most recent visit, once again I was served a wine that seemed on its way to mulled status.  It was Luis Felipe Edwards Rosa Blanca Organic.  Fortunately, this Chilean wine from the Colchagua Valley did not suffer as much as some others I have had there.  It's essentially a Cabernet Sauvignon, with a bit Carmenere added.  Both grapes come from the same vineyard, one that sits next to a bed of white roses.  That's the origin of the name.

In the glass, a dark purple core only lightens a bit at the edge.  The nose gave away a lot of alcohol early, but that settled down after ten minutes or so.  The fruit rides in the front seat and waves at you when it passes by.  Aromas of dark berries and plums are foremost in the bouquet, while the plums come through strongly on the palate, along with a leathery flavor.  There isn't a lot of graphite or smoke discernable to me, which I found mildly surprising.  The somewhat short finish is the only drawback.

HOW TO TASTE WINE

Wine tasting at a winery, tasting room, wine bar or tasting event is the best way to explore grape varieties and wine types with which you are not familiar.  In this way, you can expand your palate and create a broad knowledge base about different kinds of wine. 

It's not uncommon in wine country to see a limo pull up to a tasting room and deposit a group of happy drunks at the front door.  They go inside and proceed to blaze through the tasting flight as if it were last call.  This is not "wine tasting."  This is "wine drinking" - not that there's anything wrong with that, in its place.  Lots of people drink wine in order to get blasted.  For the purpose of this article, I am assuming you want to learn more about wine and are tasting for that reason.

If you are new to the tasting game, here are some simple steps which will make you look like a pro on your visit to wine country.  If you are in a crowded tasting room - maybe one with several limos docked outside - you may feel some pressure to hurry your flight along and get out of the way.  Don't.  Take all the time you need to evaluate and enjoy the wines put before you.  That space at the tasting bar is yours until you relinquish it.

See
Hold the glass up to a white napkin or paper.  Observe the color and clarity.  Does the color change from the center to the edge of glass?  Red wines will tend to turn lighter in color and brown a bit around the edges with age.  White wines will probably grow darker with age.

SwirlDo this to allow more of the wine's surface to be exposed to the air.  Exposing the wine to the air in this way helps bring the aromas forward.

SniffDon't be bashful.  Put your nose right into the glass.  Get a big whiff of the smells that will affect how the wine tastes to you.

Sip
Swish it around in your mouth.  Allow it to cover all of your tongue, and note the flavors you detect.  Get a feel for what kind of body the wine has.  Is it light and airy, or heavy and full?

Spit or Swallow
Depending on your situation, you may want to make use of the spit bucket provided at most tasting rooms and events.  Especially if you plan to taste a lot of wines.  Just a one-ounce pour over 30 or so tastes is a half-gallon of wine.

SavorAllow some time to enjoy the wine's finish.  How long does the taste remain?  Do the tastes change after the wine is gone from your mouth?

Scribble
Make notes on your thoughts about the wines you taste.  Many people take notebooks with them on tasting trips.  Record your impressions on taste, tannins, alcohol and acidity. 

The taste is the flavors you experience, like cherry, plum, spice, etc.  The level of tannins determine the astringent quality in red wine.  The more tannins there are, the dryer the wine.  The alcohol level determines how much "heat" you feel when tasting it.  Acids make the wine feel refreshing, or mouth-watering.

NOILLY PRAT FRENCH DRY VERMOUTH

A while back this space contained a few words on sweet vermouth.  To recap, in the vermouth world, red is sweet, it's rosso, it's Italian.  White vermouth is usually dry, and usually called French vermouth.

Noilly Prat is produced in Marseillan, in southern France.  The basic wine is produced using white grapes Picpoul de Pinet and Clairette.  The wine stays in a huge oaken cask for eight months, then is placed in smaller barrels and put outside for a year.  The barrels are then brought inside and the wine rests for a few months, but they're not through yet!  Herbs and spices are then added to the wine every day for three weeks.

First produced in 1813 by French herbalist Joseph Noilly, this is the type of vermouth that's used in martinis and other mixed drinks.  According to an old joke, it can also left out of the martini to insure the drinks are so dry there's dust in the urinals.

Dry vermouth can also be enjoyed straight up chilled.  Try it with a twist of lemon.

The wine is straw-colored with a nose that's somewhat medicinal with honey, almond, nutmeg and pepper showing.  It tastes heavily of the spices - pepper, clove and nutmeg all come through strongly on the palate.  The 18% alcohol level is quite noticeable.

TRES PINOS THREE PINES CUVEE 2009

I can spend more than five dollars on a bottle of wine if I like, and I feel fortunate that I can.  I do love a bargain, though.  That's why I find myself drawn to those discount wines at Trader Joe's so often.  I tell myself to keep moving, spend a little more.  But the lure of finding a good wine on the cheap is too great.  The sirens were singing my song again when I saw the Tres Pinos white. “Here's your five dollars.”  “Here's your wine.”

Tres Pinos Three Pines Cuvee is made by San Antonio Winery in Los Angeles.  They source their grapes from all over California, and the grapes for this wine came from San Luis Obispo County.  I like a lot of wines from SLO, so I had high hopes for this effort.

The grapes in question are Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay and Viognier.  That's a likely bunch of suspects for a good blend.  13.5% abv.

This white is the color of straw, and there's just a hint of effervescence upon pouring without refrigeration.  The second night the tiny little bubbles didn't appear when the wine was chilled.

I am often disappointed by the nose on cheap – er – inexpensive wines.  That is not the case here, as a beautiful bouquet of honeysuckle, apricot and cantaloupe rind appears.

The palate is not as fruity as I expected.  It's actually rather dry.  There is a subtle flavor of pear juice and a decent minerality – something I always love to find in those Edna Valley wines from San Luis Obispo County.  I'm intrigued by an almost savory edge, maybe guava.  The acidity is more than adequate for pairing light fare.  It's great with a handful of peanuts!

The various grapes used in Tres Pinos blend together nicely.  None of the four stand out too much.  I found it to be much better when chilled than not.  It's a serviceable wine that actually tastes pretty good.  And the price is certainly right.

RIDGE THREE VALLEYS ZINFANDEL SONOMA COUNTY 2008

I had a very nice end to a horrible drive in Los Angeles a while back at, of all places, Marie Callendar's .  I was an hour and a half late picking up Denise after work, but so was everybody else.  What will probably go down in L.A. history as Obama Jam - the afternoon the Secret Service closed Olympic Boulevard for about ten miles due to the President's visit - caused every single commuter to run so late it wasn't even funny.

Denise and some of her cohorts at KNX radio went across Wilshire to Marie Callendar's to wait out the closure.  When I arrived, there was good company, lots of laughs and a Ridge Zinfandel to greet me.  All combined, everything quickly seemed to be alright in my world.

There was a lot of shop talk and one other wine lover in the group.  We both enjoyed the Ridge Three Valleys Zin.

This wine is made from the grapes of seven vineyards, and has a varietal makeup that suggests that it's a field blend, although I don't know if that's the case.  It's 74% Zinfandel, 11% Petite Sirah, 5% Carignane, 4% Mataro, 3% Syrah and 3% Grenache.  The alcohol level is 14.2% abv, somewhat tame by California Zinfandel standards.

As the winery says, "Zinfandel fruit determines the wine's varietal character; old-vine Carignane contributes its own bright fruit and acidity; Petite Sirah and Syrah add peppery spice, depth of color, and firm tannins; Grenache brings briar fruit and lively tannins."

Three Valleys Zinfandel is fermented in stainless steel and aged in 100% American oak.  33% of the barrels are new and one-year old, 20% are two years old, and 47% five to six years old.  It spends nine months in barrels.

The color is dark, but not inky.  Cherry comes through on the nose, with some pepper and a nice earthy tone.  Minerals and a brambly dark fruit flavor make the palate expressive.  The tannins are firm, but not overpowering, while the finish is long and savory.

LIOCO WINE WITH KEVIN O'CONNOR

Since trying the 2006 Lioco Indica Sonoma County a while back, I've been a fan of this small California producer.  I was fortunate enough to hook up with founder Kevin O'Connor at the recent Taste of Beverly Hills Food and Wine Festival, presented by Food and Wine magazine.

O'Connor was formerly the wine director at Spago-Beverly Hills.  He and wine importer Matt Licklider got to talking about whether or not California could produce a true "wine of origin."  A number of California producers already feel they are doing just that, but O'Connor and Licklider set out to do it their way.

While pouring his creations for me, O'Connor told me of his winemaking philosophy, which is also summed up nicely on the Lioco website.  

"Everything begins in the vineyard--without a compelling vineyard site, there is little chance of creating a distinctive wine.  Inspired by traditional European winegrowing practices, we seek out vineyard sites with tougher soil, older vines, and some stress-producing aspect (altitude, extreme temperature, poor soil, etc).  Then we simply shepherd the grapes from bud to bottle in the least intrusive way possible."

So, using wines from Burgundy and Southern France as a roadmap, O'Connor strives to produce wines with a true California identity.  This means Chardonnay with no oak and Pinot Noir and red blends with limited oak effect.  The mission is to let the grapes do the talking, and the grapes have plenty to say in Lioco wines.

My introduction to Lioco was a bottle of the '06 Indica Sonoma County.  A blend of 87% Carignan and 13% Petite Sirah, this wine showed me a very stong blueberry aroma and flavor, with a spicy finish that mellows with breathing time.  Dark undercurrents and an earthiness you'd expect from the grapes used were prominent.  I thought it would pair well with merguez sausage or lamb.

At the Beverly Hills event, O'Connor proudly poured four of his wines.  The '08 Sonoma Chardonnay uses no oak and has a nose full of minerality with a very clean taste and a nice, high acidity level.  The Lioco '09 Carneros Chardonnay is also produced sans oak and shows even more minerals than the Sonoma.  This also has a beautiful acidity and some interesting herbal notes.

Lioco's '08 Pinot Noir smells of rose petals and has a meaty, almost gamey flavor that is quite complex.  The '07 version of Indica again features mostly old-vine Carignan (the amount changes from vintage to vintage), with some Grenache and Mourvedre in the mix.  O'Connor calls this his "fun wine," and I have to agree.  Big blueberry and cherry flavors are abetted by a wonderfully dark minerality.

SOL CASAL TEMPRANILLO

This Now And Zin entry wraps up the wine story of my trip to Pennsylvania's Wyoming Valley.  Actually, this fond farewell concerns the Wilkes-Barre/Scranton International Airport and the Continental Airlines flight back to Los Angeles.

I had a couple of opportunities to enjoy Yuengling beer during my visit to NEPA and was delighted to find it available at the airport as we awaited our flight.  It's hoppy and bright - just the way I like 'em - with a strong hint of lemon that is quite refreshing.  It goes great with pizza, too.

After the puddle-jumper to Newark, Continental flight 302 boarded and we were on our way home.  I was once again delighted, this time to find an interesting wine offered on the plane.  Maybe a bit homesick, I asked for a Zinfandel.  There was none of that, but the Sol Casal Tempranillo proved to be a nice substitute.  It's a Spanish wine from La Mancha, but it's bottled by Paul Sapin in France, and I believe it's part of his 187 line of small, one serving bottles like those served by airlines.

The wine is dark at the core and ruby red at the edges with a big nose - and I mean a huge nose - of red fruit and leather.  It tastes of smoke and dried cherries, plums and blackberries.  The tannins are quite mellow and the alcohol level is 13% abv.  It has a big, rich taste which was much appreciated on the cross-country flight.  It even tasted great in the plastic cup.

RIUNITE LAMBRUSCO

You can't always drink from the top shelf, but there's no reason you can't enjoy what the moment brings.  I found that out recently in downtown Wilkes-Barre at a bar called Bart & Urby's.

I guess I really should have ordered an ale or stout - the establishment serves a rather impressive array of domestic, imported and microbrewed varieties.  The wine list has only a few options: Beringer, Fetzer, Yellowtail and - what's this? - Riunite!  Holy cow, I've never actually had a Riunite.  It must be time.

I ordered the Lambrusco with visions of saying "yes" to Martini and Rossi on the rocks and Bartles and Jaymes thanking me for my support.  I don't recall the actual TV commercial jingle for Riunite, but I know it's in the memory bank somewhere and it's filed right alongside the taglines I do remember.  I probably never had Riunite because in the early '70s I was too busy sneaking my mom's Spanada from the refrigerator.

The Riunite website explains the different varieties of Lambrusco grapes they use: "Lambrusco Marani imparts brightness, taste, perfume and color; Lambrusco Salamino, for perfume and harmony; Lambrusco Maestri, for fruitiness and body; Lambrusco Montericco for added body and perfume and finally Lancellotta (also known as Ancelotta) sometimes referred to as the "missing grape," which is responsible for the very fresh and abundantly fruity character of Riunite's Lambrusco."

They also explain that Lambrusco is a "unique Italian grape variety grown principally in the three central provinces of Emilia - Modena, Parma and Reggio Emilia."

The Lambrusco arrived on the Bart & Urby's patio and my first whiff of the dark juice reminded me somewhat of Welches grape juice, but more of Spanada.  It was served chilled, and was a sweet and refreshing cross of grape and cranberry juice flavors.  It won't be a regular choice for me, but it hit the spot so well at this moment that I ordered another.  Leave the top shelf for another evening.

PRELIUS VERMENTINO MAREMMA 2008 AT GRICO IN EXETER, PA

Another night, another family and friends gathering in northeastern Pennsylvania for my wife and me.  This dinner found us at Grico's  in Exeter, PA.  We were advised to grab one of the curtained, private booths, but they are best for smaller, more romantic tete-a-tetes.  Our party of six ended up in the Library Room, a private dining room in the front of the restaurant with pictures of books on the walls.

Owner/chef Pat Greenfield maintains quite a reputation in the Wyoming Valley and her restaurant is recommended by locals as a dining hotspot.  The food certainly deserves recognition.  It's good enough to keep people dining there for 75 years - much, much longer than she's been around.  The Grico's wine list showed plenty of imported - and expensive - choices by the bottle.  Maybe as a nod to the hard times the area has seen in recent years, there was a separate "20 Wines For Under $20" list.  That's $20 per bottle, by the way.  Our wine for the evening came from that list.

The Prelius estate is in Tuscany's hilly Maremma region.  The grapes are organically farmed and the estate has Merlot, Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Vermentino growing in the sandy soil of a slope just two miles from the sea.

The Vermentino is only 13% abv, and is aged three months in the bottle.  A 100% varietal wine, it is very pale in color and has tons of minerals on the nose, along with a hint of sea shells.  Tropical notes dominate the palate and a bit of lemon zest adds a nice zing.  The acidity level is plenty high for food pairing, but maybe a little too high for sipping.  It matched quite nicely with my sea scallops.  Despite the acidic edge, the mouthfeel of this wine was actually somewhat creamy and full.

THE TASTE OF BEVERLY HILLS 2010, SUNDAY

September 5, 2010 – Beverly Hills, CA

Yesterday the Now And Zin Wine Blog was concerned with the Saturday daytime version of the Taste of Beverly Hills.


The Art Of Brunch was the title of Sunday's daytime session at the Taste of Beverly Hills and, as you may have expected, that means the participating restaurants do this sort of thing as a regular part of their serving day.

Brunch in Los Angeles can be a beautiful thing.  It can also be a perplexing thing.  If you've ever gone driving around in L.A. looking for a spot to have a late Sunday breakfast, you may think there are only a handful of places that cater to that need.  You can see lines out the door and down the street for some restaurants, while the waiters in a breakfast joint down the block will be standing with arms crossed waiting for the lunch rush to begin.  Such is the difference between an “in” place and one that's just a place.

There was no such problem at the Taste Of Beverly Hills.  Every place was an “in” place.  While there may have been a slight wait at a table or two, crowds generally moved along pretty quickly, affording everyone the chance to sample the goods from all the restaurants.

Saturday's high level of quality was at least matched by Sunday's small plates.  Everything was delicious and presented in an artful and appealing way.  And, my Sunday brunch started with someone handing me a Bellini.  That's never a bad thing.

How it tasted

Here's a timeline of my tweets from Sunday's Taste of Beverly Hills as presented on my Twitter account (@randyfuller1):


#tobh  Free parking in Beverly Hills structures on Sunday!

#tobh  Taste: #food demos from Scott Conant & Michel Nischan today.  Stella Artois tent: Chef Daniel Joly with Belgian Pouring Ritual.  #beer

#tobh  #Wine event at 2:00.  Belinda Chang talks CdP.  Captain Justin Warner does a wine rap.  Okay, I'll bite!

#tobh  Rats.  Intelligentsia booth too crowded.  It's OK, a little too warm for #coffee already.

#tobh  That's OK.  Start with Bellini.  Peach Vodka, peach purée and Monetto Prosecco.  #wine

#tobh  Circa 55 Restaurant has smoked salmon.  Great start to Taste of Beverly Hills.  #food 

#tobh  St Urbain St. Bagels.  Nice chewy bagel and sun dried tomato cream cheese.  So much else to get to, though.  #food

#tobh  The Farm has French Toast stuffed w/ banana & topped w/ caramel/peanut butter sauce.  Say yeah.

#tobh  Ventura County Wine Trail is pouring fab LH Zin from Rancho Ventavo and Casa Barranca Cab Franc that's nice and light!  #wine

#tobh  Can't get close to Huckleberry yet!  Full table and here comes more! 

#tobh  Grilled salmon burger from Nine-Thirty.  I need to eat like this all the time!  #food

#tobh  My pals from Summerland Winery have some rockin' good juice.  '07 Trio is very old world (thanks Mourvedre).  '07 Paso Zin is v nice.

#tobh  Would be remiss not to mention Summerland's Grenache rose.  A salmon colored dry delight.  #wine

#tobh  Crossing to other Great Tent, stop at Stella Artois.  Sampled Leffe this time around.  Abbey #beer.  Comes in a gift Chalice glass!

#tobh  Hansen's Cakes did it up right!  They knew we were comin' so they baked a cake.

#tobh  Firefly in Studio City came over the hill with a nice brioche w/ Italian ham and a carmerlized fig on top!  #food

#tobh  Breadbar serving quiche Lorraine and truffle potato.  It's really sinful.  It really is.  #food  Bread, oddly enough, only for show.

#tobh  Angeli presenting Italian bread with Fontina cheese.  Polenta coming soon.

#tobh #wine  Larry Schaffer of Tercero poured a Grenache Blanc with outstanding acidity and a Gewurz going as "The Outsider" - v floral

#tobh #wine  Tercero Grenache & Syrah use whole cluster so a little more herbaceousness  creeps in.

#tobh #wine  Tercero has reds that kill.  Syrah/Petite Sirah, Syrah/Grenache/Mourvedre.  Great structure and depth.  I'm a Larry Schaffer fan.

#tobh #food  Plaisir on Santa Monica Blvd made these unbelievable cream puffs!  Watch out for the squirt.

#tobh #wine  Cambria Chardonnay - just enough oak.  Their '07 Pinot Noir Julia's Vineyard is a fave.

#tobh  Coupa Cafe with Venezuelan food!  Amazing beef empanadas, corn pancakes and Venezuelan cheese sticks.  #food

#tobh #wine  Mateus is here??  With Tempranillo rose?  Hey.  It's not too bad.

#tobh #wine  Demetrius has a white Rhone blend I like a lot.  Pinot is most exp., SGM blend the least exp.  Not that far apart to my palate.

#tobh  Overheard about Taste announcer: "Sunday Sunday Sunday..."

#tobh  On the way out now.  Can't believe how much I ate! & there's another session 2night - BBQ In The Hills - Taste of Beverly Hills.  #food


Congratulations to all who worked to present the Taste of Beverly Hills.  This food and wine event was truly something special, and I'm already looking forward to 2011!

CASCATA WINERY CASCADE RIESLING 2007

The saga of the Now And Zin trip to northeastern Pennsylvania continues today, back at my brother-in-law's house in Kingston, PA.  Denise and I sat with Steven on the porch in wicker chairs and let some relaxation creep into our collective consciousness.  Robin had the brilliant idea of helping it along, and she produced a bottle of wine they had procured on a visit to the Finger Lakes region of New York.  Despite Mrs. Now And Zin's weak protest - "What, drinking again?" - the other three of us outvoted her.  Besides, wine tasting is what I do. Even on my time off, it's work, work, work.

The Cascade Riesling which Robin brought to the porch hailed from Cascata Winery, a boutique winery/art gallery/bed & breakfast in Watkins Glen, NY, near Seneca Lake.  Robin told me the winery's tasting room is housed in a 19th century home on a beautiful estate.  From the Cascata website: "Our wines include examples of dry and semi-dry Vinifera, dry and semi-dry French-American hybrids, and sweet Labrusca."  The Cascade Riesling is one of the winery's semi-dry white wines.  It's a double gold medal winner from a competition somewhere, if that sort of thing intrigues you.

The wine sits quite pale in the glass, almost colorless.  The nose shows plenty of citrus notes with a hint of apricot.  On the palate, lemon peel plays against a backdrop of minerals and a faint sense of petrol comes through.  It's quite an appealing wine, with enough acidity to welcome food pairing.  It's also nice to sip, just sitting on the porch in a wicker chair.

THE TASTE OF BEVERLY HILLS 2010

September 4, 2010, Beverly Hills, CA

Saturday was the third day of the Taste of Beverly Hills, but my first appearance at the sprawling culinary event presented by Food and Wine.  It's actually six different food and wine fests under the umbrella title.  Thursday and Friday nights were great fun, I heard.  Saturday and Sunday have sessions during the day and night.

How It Looks

The sessions are built around two great tents in the parking lot of the old Robinson's-May store at 9900 Wilshire Boulevard, next to the Beverly Hilton Hotel.  Inside the tents, food tasting tables ring the perimeter while an inner circle of tables offers wine and other delicious beverages.

In between the two great tents is a large, open area and a smaller tent where Stella Artois pours three versions of their brews.  A main stage has sporadic entertainment on it.  When I arrived Saturday morning, Melinda Lee was doing her “Food News” show there, live on KNX 1070 NEWSRADIO.  Throughout the day, I heard musical acts performing from that area but, to be honest, I was so involved with the amazing array of food and wine being presented that I never went over to check out the shows.

There are other small stage areas where cooking and cocktail demonstrations are offered.  Some wine events take place inside the hotel, in a wine room called The Chateau.

If it sounds like it's a circus for food and wine lovers, that's not far off the mark.  It's just a little more upscale.

The Food

Events where many restaurants cook and serve samples of their wares usually are rather hit and miss with the food quality as it varies from table to table.  I was surprised that the Taste of Beverly Hills didn't seem to have a bad booth in the bunch.  Every food sample I tasted was deliciously prepared and happily served.  Here's how I reported on the food at the Taste of Beverly Hills on my Twitter account (@randyfuller1):

#TOBH 9021pho serving killer tofu tamarind salad.

#TOBH Meatball from Delancey, and Gonpachi is serving salmon on a stick! Also shrimp dumpling that rocks.

#TOBH Mr Cecil's pork cracklin's are great. So's the salmon tartare on a potato chip from Fraiche.

#TOBH Nonna's of Italy has fried risotto balls! I feel like I'm at the county fair.

#TOBH No clunkers yet, foodwise. Cheesecake Factory even wows with Piña Colada Cheesecake!

#TOBH Stop for water before the Jitlada table. "Not spicy" is spicy, "Spicy" is OMG. Rocks the house, though.

The wine

#TOBH My first Taste: William Sherer's Iberian Remix White. Then the red. Both quite nice. White craves seafood, red wants sausage pizza.

#TOBH Lioco table is a hit. Two Chardonnays - Sonoma & Carneros, both unoaked! And Indica blend, mostly old-vine Carignane.

#TOBH At the Sommelier Blind Tasting event. Boys vs girls. yfrog.com/7ebvbbj/>
#TOBH Taste of Beverly Hills sommelier Bonnie Graves leads the tasting. moby.to/cq5vvf/>
#TOBH Layer Cake Primitivo '07. Bright and juicy. Tons of fruit.

#TOBH Bonny Doon pouring a variety, including "Riesling To Live" sparkler.

#TOBH Four Vines only has Biker Zin today. They'll have full line tonight.

#TOBH Edith Piaf singing "La Vie En Rose" while I sample La Crema Chard, Murphy-Goode Cab and KJ Summation. None as good the song.

#TOBH Stella Artois Hoegaarden, white beer, cloudy in the glass but clean on the palate.

#TOBH Love the Sextant #wine - Zin's always good with me. Night Watch and Genoa are my faves, and are mostly Petite Sirah.

#TOBH After letting taste buds recover from B2B Thai and Indian #food, Jettlynn's Estate Petite Sirah scored! This place has only reds.

I got a little busy toward the end of the session and let a tweet-op pass.  I should mention that the Ventura County Wine Trail folks are there, pouring a nice Barbera and an elegantly understated late-harvest Zinfandel.  They also have all the information you need to tackle the Ventura County Wine Trail.

The Sommelier Challenge

The highlight event for me was the Boys vs Girls Sommelier Blind Tasting challenge.  Eight noted sommeliers – four men and four women – competed in a wine competition that was spirited and aimed more at whimsy than winning.

The Taste of Beverly Hills Event Sommelier Bonnie Graves presided over the competition with a light touch.  It was an entertaining event which included panelists David Rosoff from Osteria Mozza, Dana Farner from CUT, Christopher Lavin from XIV, Caroline Styne of AOC and Lucques, Jonathan Mitchell of the Palm, Rebecca Chapa from the Culinary Institute of America, Mark Mendoza of Sona and Comme Ça, and Diane DeLuca from the Estates Group.

The competition was a battle of the sexes.  The male sommeliers jumped out to an early lead with the correct identification of the first wine as Prosecco.  The gentlemen scored again by getting the Macon Chardonnay right.  The ladies nailed the Sauvignon Blanc, but could not correctly identify it as a New Zealand wine.  Wine number four was the ringer – Charles Shaw Merlot – which sent both sides scurrying to name it – to no avail.  The game changer for the women was getting the Rioja Tempranillo Reserva correct down to the last detail.

Sunday Lineup
Sunday's two sessions – The Art Of Brunch, from 10:00 a.m. To 3:00 p.m., and A BBQ In The Hills, from 7:00 – 11:00 p.m. - promise to be just as jam-packed with food and wine sampling and more.  Here are some highlights:

Sunday, September 5, 2010: The Art of Brunch
10:45 a.m. (LG Main Stage) - Live cooking demo by celebrity chef, author, and TV personality Scott Conant
11:15 a.m. (Mix Stage 1) - Mixology demo by Clark Moore (Stone Rose Lounge/Gerber Group)
11:45 a.m. (LG Stage 2) - Live cooking demo by Ray Garcia, executive chef of FIG at the Fairmont Miramar Hotel
12 p.m. (Mix Stage 1) - Mixology demo by Matthew Biancaniello (Library Bar at the Roosevelt Hotel)
12 p.m. (The Chateau) - Master Sommelier “Iron Sommelier” panel
12:15 p.m. (LG Main Stage) - Live cooking demo by Richard Ruskell, executive pastry chef at the Montage Resort and Spa in Beverly Hills
12:45 p.m. (Mix Stage 1) - Mixology demo from Jim Beam Global
1 p.m. (The Chateau) - Sommelier Belinda Chang Wine Seminar
1:45 p.m. (LG Main Stage) - Live cooking demo by chef, cookbook author, and media personality Michel Nischan
4 p.m. (LG Main Stage) - KCRW 89.9 FM’s Pie Contest hosted by “Good Food” Host and Chef/Restaurateur Evan Kleiman

Sunday, September 5, 2010: A BBQ in the Hills 
7:30 p.m. (LG Main Stage) - Live cooking demo by renowned Chefs Celestino and Gaicomo Drago
8:45 p.m. (LG Stage 2) - Live cooking demo by “Rock and Roll Chef” Kerry Simon
9 p.m. (Mix Stage 1) - Mixology demo from Jim Beam Global

Tips

It was a tad warm on Saturday, so if you are attending Sunday's day event, keep the Beverly Hilton's lobby bar in mind as a place to which you can repair for something cool to drink and a bit of air conditioning.  It'll come in handy.  It also makes a nice setting for an after-session meeting to discuss favorite tastes and sips.


Denise Fondo joins in from her vantage point on Middle Crescent Kitchen.  You can read her views on the Taste of Beverly Hills on the Now And Zin main website.


I hope to tweet from the event again on Sunday.  I'll be hashtagging #tobh.