WINE COUNTRY: NEW HAMPSHIRE - MOONLIGHT MEADERY

New Hampshire is a relatively new entry to Wine Country.  The Granite State's wine industry didn't get started until 1994.  The New Hampshire Winery Association membership includes not only grape wine producers, but also makers of mead and cider.

Moonlight Meadery is based in Londonderry, New Hampshire, near the southeast corner of the state.  The town's name originated from its early settlers, many of whom were from Londonderry, Ireland.  The first American potato was grown there in 1719.

Londonderry was the birthplace of several governors and congressmen, but we'll try not to hold that against them.  San Francisco Giants pitcher Brian Wilson is from Londonderry, too.  As a Dodger fan, I'll try not to hold that against them, either.

The town is known for its apple orchards, and a meadery - Moonlight Meadery - which produces what they call "Romance by the glass."

Moonlight's mead maker Michael Fairbrother states on his meadery's website, "Mead, to me, is passion.  It's about living and love, it's about enjoyment, family and friends, and sharing."  Sounds good to us.  You can see Fairbrother in this video story from WMUR.

We have covered mead before in the Wine Country series.  Mead is wine made from honey, water and yeast.  It can range from sweet to dry and be produced as still, slightly fizzy - pétillant - or sparkling.  A melomel is a mead made with the addition of fruit.  A cyser is a melomel made with apples, and a pyment is a melomel where grapes are used in addition to the honey.

Fairbrother gives his meads names like Smitten, Desire and Sensual, playing off that "romance in a glass" analogy.  He supplied me with four samples of his meads for this article.

The mead he calls Wild is honey and blueberry wine made from unprocessed New Hampshire wildflower honey and mountain grown blueberries.  It carries an alcohol level of 14.2% abv.

Wild's medium ruby color allows light to pass through easily.  The nose shows a strong herbal note leading the way with blueberry aromas underneath and honey and flowers trailing.

The taste is completely dry and the blueberries really come forward on the palate. There's a strong sense of greenness on the palate, too.  Nice, gentle tannic structure matches well with a good acidity level.  It's very fresh and clean tasting.  I had blueberry wine from Florida which was much sweeter and more juice like than this honey and blueberry wine.  The Moonlight mead is much more like a red wine than a fruit juice.  I tried it chilled and not, and was pleased with the experience both ways.  The herbal finish is fairly lengthy.

Utopian is the strongest of the quartet I tried at 16.9% abv.  It’s a semi-sweet, limited edition mead which is fermented and aged in Samuel Adams Utopias barrels.

The color gives a beautiful, rich, golden glow.  On the nose, the honey gets down to business.  It smells much like a dark honey, maybe chestnut honey.  There’s a bit of sherry and a bit of coffee, too, in what strikes me as quite a complex package of aromas.

On the palate, Utopian's sweetness is delicate and the mouthfeel quite viscous, like a dessert wine.  There’s a sherry-like flavor that’s pretty incredible and the finish is looong with a note of coffee mocha in it.  It's really nice paired with almonds - you could even pour this over vanilla ice cream or a have it with pound cake.  Once again a very nice acidity is present.

Desire is a beautiful deep ruby color.  The nose again has a firm underpinning of honey aroma with a pretty straightforward display of the fruit used in making this melomel - black currant, black cherry and blueberry.  The palate is dominated by the currant to the degree that it bears a striking similarity to cassis.  It's not as viscous as Wild, but it definitely sits very full in the mouth.  The 16.7% alcohol content means it's a fairly stiff drink, at least in the realm of wine.  There's good acidity here, but I don't think I could bring myself to eat while savoring the texture and flavor of Desire. Well, maybe some chocolate.  Desire beat out 352 other wines in a New England competition.

The golden mead called Sensual shows a whole honeycomb full of honey aroma.   That’s no surprise, since it is a traditional mead, made only from wildflower honey, water and yeast.  The palate is dripping with honey, too.  Once again, a resounding acidity is present and the finish is very long and ridiculously satisfying.  The taste of pure honey is all that remains after a drink, and it’s there for quite a while.  The alcohol level for Sensual is 15.3% abv.  It's the simplest of the four featured here, but it may be my favorite.

Once again one of the American states brings mead to Wine Country, and once again I am floored by the quality.


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BLOOD OF THE VINES: THE LONGEST YARD

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It’s not too hard to connect the dots between professional football and prison, or between football and fine wine.  It’s quite a bit harder to make a play for all three.

There is no shortage of star football players who have done a little time - or more - in the pokey.  Conversely, some football folks have ventured into the field of wine.  I'll take football over prison and wine over either of those choices.

"The Longest Yard" has Burt Reynolds - himself a former college football player - as a prisoner who heads up the inmate football team in a contest against the guards, a game which is more than just a game to those on the field.  It's fantasy football with real consequences.  These football heroes have numbers a lot longer than one or two digits; their football cards are mugshots.

Former NFL stars Ray Nitschke, Joe Kapp and Ernie Wheelwright also appear in the film, which lends credibility to the football sequences.  The same scenario was used in the football sequences in "M*A*S*H."  Joe Kapp was in that movie, too, along with Fran Tarkenton, Ben Davidson and Fred "The Hammer" Williamson.

We've covered the football and prison angles, now let's get to the wine before Eddie Albert sends over a guard to whack us with a stick.

There are a handful of good choices for wines to pair with "The Longest Yard."  Some former football greats have made a name for themselves on the grape gridiron.  Former NFL coach Dick Vermeil and former 49ers president Carmen Policy both have Napa Valley wineries.  Former Partriots quarterback Drew Bledsoe makes wine where he played college ball, in Washington.  Dick Butkus and "Iron" Mike Ditka both make wine, proving it ain't just for sissies.

Some NFL teams are even getting into the wine business.  The New York Jets and San Diego Chargers have both hired California winemakers to make a brand for their teams.

The pairing we'll go with here is made by a former Penn State Nittany Lion, Gary Eberle.  When he entered the wine business, he did it with the same sort of determination Joe Paterno no doubt instilled in him on the gridiron.  Eberle helped establish California's Paso Robles appellation in 1980, then opened Eberle Winery there several years later.

Eberle's Full Boar Red - kinda sounds like a football play - is a manly blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Barbera and Tempranillo.  At $15, you'll have plenty of money left over for snacks and a bail bondsman.

Audibles:

Cornerback Charles Woodson is ready to put his name on 24 Wine, produced from grapes grown in the prestigious Napa Valley Stags Leap area.  He can't fully get behind that yet because of the NFL's rules prohibiting a current player from promoting alcohol.  Run a dogfight and you can get right back in the game.  Try and sell some $150 per bottle wine, though, and you're really getting on the warden's - er, commissioner's - bad side.

Woodson actually makes the trifecta for this piece. He was arrested in 2004 for public intoxication, but probably didn't serve any serious jail time for that. It probably wasn't even a pricey Napa Cab he was allegedly buzzed on, either.

Pruno - I don't where you can buy this stuff.  I don't know why you'd even want to.  It's a wine supposedly made in prison, though.  The directions alone kind of make the throw-up happen in the back of my throat, so click the link at your own peril.

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A NEW WINERY FOR VENTURA

Ventura, California is welcoming its first winery.  Four Brix Winery has actually been around a while, but they are moving into a new facility located at 2290 Eastman Avenue.  This will make Four Brix the only winery operating within the Ventura city limits.

After two years at the Wine Yard in Thousand Oaks, Four Brix Winery is celebrating the Grand Opening of its new winemaking and tasting facility the weekend of September 17-18, 2011.  This affair offers Ventura County wine lovers a great opportunity to celebrate California Wine Month right in their own backyard.

One of 12 wineries along the Ventura County Wine Trail, Four Brix Winery produces wines inspired by cuvees from the Rhone Valley, Tuscany, Bordeaux and other renowned regions.

The winery is co-owned and operated by three couples – the Stewarts, the Simonsgaards, and the Noonans, who were prompted by their mutual love of food, wine, and people to found Four Brix Winery with the goal of sharing their passion with others.

The Four Brix Grand Opening festivities run Saturday and Sunday, September 17th and 18th, from noon until 5:00 p.m. both days.  Wine tastings are $10 and guests can join the Four Brix wine club at the "Founders Club" level, which affords members the ability to self-select each wine for their wine club shipment.  This special "Founders Club" membership will only be available through Grand Opening Weekend.

Local art will be displayed throughout the weekend, with light hors d'oeuvres, cheese plates, and charcuterie are available for purchase.  No reservations are required.  Get more information at Four Brix Wine.


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RUBBING ELBOWS AT MUSSO AND FRANK

The Maitre d' at Musso and Frank Grill suggested our party might enjoy the Chaplin booth in the venerable, old-Hollywood eatery.  Old, as in Chaplin used to sit in that booth.

It's not that my fame as a wine scribbler preceded me.  We were awarded the choice booth because notable film director and Trailers From Hell head guru Joe Dante was in our party, and he was duly noted as we walked in.  Joe's been a regular at Musso and Frank during his illustrious career.

It wasn't my first brush with fame, though.  During my time as a Los Angeleno I've had lunch with Reba - in the same restaurant, anyway.  I've seen Magic getting out of his limo at a Sunset Strip steakhouse I can't afford.  I've chatted with James Coburn at a party.  He had no idea who I was.  Henry Winkler, too, different party.  I was a plus-one at a party thrown by Harvey Levin, pre-TMZ.  No papparazzi were present.  Once, I was almost knocked over by Ed Begley, Jr. as he ripped past me on a bicycle.  Oh yeah, I've had my brushes with fame.

After a bit of conversation about the Blood Of The Vines feature I write for Joe's blog, From Hell It Came, the talk turned to pictures.  That's when I settled back into my normal life, sniffing and sipping and poking out notes on my iPhone while taking pictures of the wine on the table.  Fortunately, the people I hang out with are rather used to that sort of behavior from me.

During the course of the evening, our red-jacketed server brought two wines to me.  Both were white, as that's the kind of mood I was in on this night.

First up was the Frei Brothers Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2009.

This Sonoma County wine is a beautiful golden color and shows tropical fruit and lemon chess pie on the nose.  The flavors - mango and minerals leading the way - rest on a gentle acidity that leads to a pineapple finish.

New Zealand's Kim Crawford Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is quite pale in the glass.  The nose gives a beautiful show of grapefruit and lemon peel with a grassy underlay.  On the palate, white grapefruit makes a huge statement, while minerals play a supporting role.

The evening was wonderful, full of great people, great wine and great conversation, all in the best booth in the place.


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FRESCOBALDI REMOLE TOSCANA

Brunello Trattoria is a cozy little Italian restaurant on the stretch of Washington Boulevard in Culver City, California which has been undergoing revitalization in recent years.  Art and design studios and restaurants have dotted the formerly bland strip, making it a bit of a destination in the Los Angeles suburb.

My lasagna napolitana was meaty and delicious, with sausages and meatballs under the just-right pasta.  I chose a wine which suited the meal, Frescobaldi's Remole Tuscan Sangiovese blend.  It's $9 by the glass at Brunello.

Frescobaldi is one of Italy's oldest wineries, with wine production dating back to the 1300s.  Their empire encompasses nine estates in Tuscany.

Made from grapes grown in Remole, in the northern part of Tuscany, this blend is 85% Sangiovese and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon.  It's fermented and aged - five months - in stainless steel.

The wine's color is a fairly deep ruby red and the body is medium-full.  Its nose shows smokey black cherry and a gorgeous note of tar.  Dark fruit comes on strong on the palate - plums and currant - with smoke, tar and anise flavors meeting a vibrant acidity.  The tannins are fairly aggressive and fit well with a meat dish.


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SANTA BARBARA WINE: A HOT TIME IN PASADENA

A hundred-degree afternoon was probably not the right time to open the doors of Pasadena's a|k|a Bistro and let the outdoors mingle with the indoors, but that is how this Santa Barbara County wine tasting event was constructed.

Some winery tables were outside and some were in, so a flow-through was created to facilitate the tasters making the circuit.  The inside portion was almost as uncomfortable as the outside.

The saving grace for those outdoors was the slight breeze, which did not appear inside the bistro.  "Outdoor" wineries which were blessed with shade - like Riverbench and Sanford - actually fared pretty well.  Those in the afternoon sun - like Tercero and Zaca Mesa - had to sweat it out.

Tercero's Larry Schaffer didn't let the heat wilt his quips.  When a taster asked how much he made - referring to the quantity of wine produced - Schaffer shot back, "Not enough! We're a nonprofit winery!"  Of course, he was joking, which was no mean feat in the sweltering heat.  You have to admire a man who keeps his sense of humor in adverse conditions!

The big, bold aromas and flavors which typify Santa Barbara County wines were solid, as usual.  Wine from all four of the AVAs in Santa Barbara County were represented, the Santa Maria Valley, the Santa Ynez Valley, Sta. Rita Hills and Happy Canyon.

As I expected, there was a lot to like at this event.  Here are some of the wines I especially liked, listed alphabetically.

Arthur Earl
Arthur Earl is a boutique winery in Los Olivos, California founded by two guys named Art and Earl. I don't know which one was working the table at this event, but he explained, "If you look up 'boutique winery' in the dictionary, there's a picture of us."

Great wines here, Rhone, Italian and Spanish varieties. The Viognier showed flowers and a savory note on the nose, with more savory meeting tropical flavors and a great acidity. The Nebbiolo has a great nose full of roses and meat. A sour blackberry flavor is perfect with the meaty minerality. The Lagrein has cherry and coffee grounds on the nose with a dark and earthy palate. An earthy, black cherry Tempranillo rounded out what was my favorite stop of the day.

Babcock Winery & Vineyards
Bryan Babcock brought his wine in from the western reaches of the Santa Ynez Valley. His Identity Crisis Syrah is a red wine made like a white wine. Skin contact is minimal and it comes out pink! It's a full flavor Syrah though, with a very nice acidity. Top Cream Chardonnay is made with 50% new oak, but it's a light touch with the wood. Psi Clone Pinot Noir mixes bright cherry and blackberry flavors.

Bedford Winery
Stephan Bedford thinks he was born in the wrong country, but he's in wine country now - the Los Alamos hills - and that suits him to a T. His wines show a dark earthiness, even the Riesling and the Chardonnay. It's more expected - but just as appreciated - in the Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, both of which have some toothy tannins.

Dragonette Cellars
I was impressed with this outfit's Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir, great acidity and a touch of a floral component balancing the earthiness. Their Grenache is made with Los Alamos fruit - Syrah and Mourvedre are in the mix - and it boasts bright cherry flavor touched by minerality.

Jaffurs Wine CellarsAn urban winery located in Santa Barbara, Jaffurs specializes in Rhone grape varieties. Upon harvesting the Grenache Blanc grapes, botrytis was found on some of the grapes. Those nobly afflicted were plucked separately and a single barrel of dessert wine was made. Unfortunately, that was not on display. The Grenache Blanc, though, was suitably tart and tangy with quite a finish. Their Grenache shows a tangible layer of darkness over the cherry flavor.

Mosby Winery & VineyardBill Mosby's place is one of the stops I always seem to make when I visit anywhere near Buellton. His Cal-Italia wines are favorites of mine - and my wife digs 'em, too. Bill's Sagrantino offers a bright cherry experience, while his Lagrein throws a dark earthiness over a bunch of violets. There aren't too many California tastings where you can sample one Lagrein, let alone two.

Riverbench
Riverbench produces only Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from their location in the Santa Maria Valley. Nice acidity and tropical flavors make their steel Chardonnay refreshing, and their 30% new French oak effort shows just the right touch of oak. The Mesa Pinot Noir is simply killer, with a good chunk of that Santa Maria Valley earth on the nose and palate. It has a beautiful floral component on the nose as well.

Tercero Wines
Larry Schaffer was pouring from his signature, hand-labeled flasks at what had to be the hottest table on the patio, in more ways than one. His Mourvedre from Camp 4 Vineyard in the eastern end of the Santa Ynez Valley has a huge nose and a brilliant sour cherry flavor. Considering the heat, it was lucky he brought some of his wonderful '09 Rose to refresh. 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvedre, this pink is nice and dry with a "strawberry meets the ground it was grown in" flavor.



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THE TASTING BAR AT WINE EXPO

Longtime Santa Monica wine store Wine Expo opened a tasting bar over the summer, and it is to my detriment that it took me so long to make it by and try out their fare.

While Wine Expo specializes in Italian wine, general manager and wine director Roberto Rogness explains on their website, "what we are REALLY interested in is diversity of style ... and wines that both enhance our diverse cuisine and challenge your senses (instead of just being big fruit bombs slathered in oak that make a strong first impression but then deaden your palate).  Plus, we are not only aware of the Global Marketplace but are famous for turning it upside down and squeezing it twice to find you the best deals.  So, this logically LEADS us to offering the largest selection of Vini Italiani in the country (plus outstanding finds from South Africa, Portugal, Spain, Hungary, Oz and NZ, Argentina, Eastern Europe and sometimes even California)."

I'm always happy to find a happy hour, and the Wine Expo tasting bar offers one from 5:00 to 7:00 six nights a week - which includes Saturday and Sunday.

Before we could even take a seat, complimentary tastes of F. Dulac Blanc de Blancs Brut was delivered to the table.  The French sparkler is toasty, nutty and bubbly - a great start in anyone's book.

The Matilde Zasso Falanghina 2010 from Campania has volcanic ash evident on the mineral laden nose and palate, but there's some nice fruitiness there, too.  $3 by the glass at happy hour.

Allesandro Botter's Tor del Colle Montelpulciano Riserva 2007 from Puglia was $4 by the glass at happy hour.  Rose petal and freshly polished leather join a meat element on the nose, while the palate is dark and complex.

These wines did fine with the salami plate spruced up with cornichons, smoked olives and salted nuts.  The heavily smoked olives prompted an "OMG" in my notes.  They are perfect for a palate like mine, for which enough is never enough.


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BLOOD OF THE VINES: THE MARK OF THE VAMPIRE

Wine Goes To The Movies

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Do vampires really stalk the world after dark?  To quote Robert Preston from Blake Edwards' "S.O.B.," "Is Batman a transvestite?  Who knows?"  Don't look for any definitive answers in "The Mark of the Vampire."  After the movie is over, your questions will remain and a few new new ones will appear.  You'll wonder "How'd they ever fall for that?"  You'll marvel, "How do they grow those bats so huge in South America?"  You'll cry aloud, "Who shot Bela Lugosi?"

Thanks to some heavy-handed editing, the wound in Lugosi's head raises more bullet questions than the Zapruder film did.  We don't see how that bullet hole got there or how many gunmen may have been involved.  We don't even know if the man with the umbrella was in the shot.

The plot-within-the-plot revealed at the end shows just how much the actors really sunk their teeth into their roles.  SAGAFTRA would have a fit today over those working conditions.  Working in a play that's being investigated by the authorities - while the performance is happening - would definitely mean "over scale" for everybody.  In the end, it's all in a day's work for these vampires and victims.

Lugosi is one of the video vampires I think of when my mind turns to long canine teeth.  Elvira is another one, but I don’t remember her canine teeth being long.  I don’t remember much about her teeth at all.  I do remember that the vampires I’ve liked best are the ones who have let the show-biz show through.  Elvira certainly has shown a lot of show-biz, and so has Lugosi - in a different way, of course.  Lugosi may have been born for the role of a vampire, but it’s fascinating when he exposes that role for all to see.

Now, off to catering services for a glass of something blood-red before punching out.

Vampire Vineyards has the Blood of the Vine for any occasion.  Vampire Cabernet Sauvignon offers North Coast Cab for the discerning fang, while Trueblood Pinot Noir features Santa Maria Valley grapes for those who prefer their vampires on the small screen.  Good news for SoCal vampire drinkers: The Vampire Vineyards Lounge & Tasting Room is located in Beverly Hills.  And we thought all the bloodsuckers were in the lawyer offices.

Or, suck on this:

Lugosi Wine - Marketed by descendents of Bela himself, this wine celebrates one of the first members of the Screen Actors Guild.  Not to mention one of the scariest.

Elvira Wine - Made with the Elvira grape, but without the Elvira picture.  Nice try.  Call us when you get the rights.


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SANCERRE AND VIOGNIER AT CALIFORNIA CANTEEN

We stopped in - between events on a recent Saturday afternoon - to the California Canteen.  Despite the inference of the name, this place offers a taste of Europe on Cahuenga Boulevard, just up from the Hollywood Bowl.  It's been there since 1999, which is a long time in Los Angeles restaurant years.

Yannick and Jean-Yves were busy preparing for the evening's business, but took time out to provide us with an entertaining stay.  Their comments on the restaurant business, wine and the Salton Sea don't seem all that memorable now, but we certainly enjoyed chatting over our refreshments.

It's hard to believe that with 15 clocks on the wall over the bar one could still lose track of time, but the clocks aren't functional.  They are all set to the same time - a quarter to four - but their hands remain motionless.  A mix of Parisian and bullfight art decorate the other walls.

We enjoyed two wines: Pierre Prieur et Fils Domaine de Saint Pierre Sancerre 2009 andPreignes Le Vieux Viognier 2009.

The Sancerre is a pretty golden-green hue in the glass.  It's made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc and shows its Loire Valley terroir with a mineral-laden nose and an herbal component that's like a fistful of string beans.  Big and full in the mouth, it's very dry with a nice acidity.  Lemon rind and white grapefruit dominate the fruit profile, while wet rocks linger on the finish.  It's a great match with the mussels and curry sauce.

The Viognier - pale yellow in color - shows honeysuckle and sweet peaches on the nose with a full, creamy mouthfeel.  Flavors of melon and orange peel are delicious.  The grapes are grown in the Languedoc region of France on the Mediterranean coast.


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LAMBRUSCO AND PELAVERGA BIANCO AT TERRONI

My wife and I often find ourselves at Terroni in Los Angeles for Sunday afternoon lunches.  Normally a little crowded for our taste at dinner time, the restaurant is usually almost empty for a late Sunday lunch.

We chose a red and a white wine, the Lambrusco for me and a white for Denise which we don't see very often on wine lists.

Lancillotto Barbolini Lambrusco Grasparossa Emilia-Romagna NV

My red is made from the Grasparossa clone of the Lambrusco grape, grown in the Castelvetro region of Emilia-Romagna.  Fizzy and foamy when poured, the bubbles diminished somewhat but were still present at the end of the meal, a spicy salami sandwich.

Even chilled, the delightfully grapey nose and big, fruity juice flavor is simply wonderful, especially on a warm afternoon.  Dark berries and black cherry abound on the palate, and it's a beautiful mate for the panini.

Castello di Verduno Pelaverga Bianco Bellis Perennis 2009
Denise opted for a white wine, a Pelaverga Bianco from Castello di Verduno in Piemonte.  The winery - along with a hotel and restaurant - are actually located in a castle.  The Pelaverga Piccolo grape is rare, and is usually used to make red wine.  This wine - from vineyards in Verduno - is vinified as a white wine and given the name "Bellis Perennis," which is the botanical name for an Italian daisy.

While that's a beautiful image, it might well have been named after some Italian rocks.  That's what leads the way on the nose and the palate: minerals, minerals and more minerals.  It tastes of wet rocks and green apple with some tart lemon peel.  Great acidity and an amazing flintiness really refreshes and reminds Denise of "stones in a stream on a hot summer day."  It's a great match for the summertime ciccio, a pizza foldover which is like a Caprese salad pizza sandwich, served cold.


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RED WINE NOW CITED AS POTENTIAL HELP FOR DIABETICS

The wine drinking scientists are at it again.  More correctly, it's the wine drinking scientists and their resveratrol-taking lab rats that are causing a clamor. Wine Spectator reported on this recently.

Red wine has been mentioned before as possibly reducing the risks associated with diabetes, heart disease, cancer and stroke.  Now, cellular biologists from LSU and the University of Nebraska Medical Center say they have found that red wine may help reverse mental deterioration suffered by people with diabetes.

The compound resveratrol - plentiful in red wine - is said to have restored brain function in diabetic rats.  It could be, say the labcoats, that resveratrol - acting as an anti-inflammatory and an antioxidant - increased blood circulation in the brain and lowered the risk of losing mental acuity.

The scientists speculate that the resveratrol relaxes the arteries in the brain, normalizing oxygen levels.  They further conclude that the compound can slightly decrease blood glucose concentration.  Resveratrol also appears to lessen the stress that can lead to strokes in diabetics.

How much resveratrol a human would have to ingest daily to get these results was not included in the report.  If more than a glass or two of red wine per day is required, there could be other debilitating factors that come into play.  As always, the researchers say more study is needed before recommending wine - or at least the resveratrol found in wine - as a prescription for diabetics.


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WINE AND FILM: THE VINTAGE

Wine lovers always like to check out movies about wine, and I had the good fortune to see a little-known wine movie screened at the single-screen Aero theater in Santa Monica, California.

"The Vintage" was made in 1957 by MGM.  It tells the story of two Italian brothers, on the lam from the law, who go to Provence and hide out as grape pickers in a vineyard.  It's a pretty good little story and a fairly atmospheric film, one that's hard to catch because no prints are known to exist.  The screening was courtesy of a high-quality DVD copy supplied by Turner Classic Movies.  It was the first time the picture had been theatrically screened since its release some 54 years ago.

The movie was shot entirely in France, and utilizes the harvesting of grapes and making of wine as the backdrop for the story.  The drama unfolds as the two brothers join a band of migrant workers who are helping the family bring in "the vintage."

What really made the screening special was the personal appearance by the director - Jeffrey Hayden - and two of the actors - Theodore Bikel and John Kerr.  Above, Bikel is on the left, Hayden is next to him, then Kerr, and on the right is a representative of the Aero Theater.  None of the three principals had seen the movie in all those years.

Kerr seemed genuinely shocked when he commented, "we all looked so young!"  He gave up acting as a profession when he went to law school in the 1960s.  He still works as an attorney.

Director Hayden had the best story of the evening.  He related his memory of the trip to France before production of the film began.  It seems the producer, Edwin Knopf, was a wine aficionado.  Wine importer Alexis Lichine had a beautiful chateau in Bordeaux.  According to Hayden, Knopf and his entourage hung out there for weeks instead of finding a more suitable farmhouse location for the movie.  Hayden said he had to maneuver to get the picture moved to the simple area where it's set, all the while using "all we need is a farmhouse!" as his battle cry.

If you get the chance, see the movie.  I think anyone interested in wine will find it enjoyable.

As a footnote, here's an interesting tidbit on wine maven Alexis Lichine, from his entry in Wikipedia:

"Starting around 1940, Lichine and (partner) Schoonmaker promoted the idea that California producers should label their wines by the grape variety or varieties from which they were made.  The standard practice among New World producers was to give their wines semi-generic labels.  That is, they named them after the regions whose wines they resembled.  For example, full-bodied red varieties might be labeled "Burgundy", whereas crisp whites might be labeled "Chablis."

"California's Wente Vineyards was the first winery to adopt the practice.  After calling its Sauvignon Blanc by its varietal name rather than labeling it "Graves," Lichine and Schoonmaker found its sales volume to increase several-fold.  More important, they were able to sell it in the important east coast U.S. market.  Others, such as Robert Mondavi, soon adopted the practice, which has become the standard for New World (and, increasingly, some Old World) wines."

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BLOOD OF THE VINES: VALLEY OF THE DOLLS

Wine Goes To The Movies
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As "Valley of the Dolls" begins, we are told that "you have to climb Mt. Everest to reach the valley of the dolls."  The highs and lows of that journey are sufficiently described in the film, leaving no doubt that we are not in Lawrenceville anymore.

With all the pill-popping that goes on in "Valley Of The Dolls," it would be a good idea to let the wine alone for this one.  I don't pop pills - "dolls," in the parlance of the film - but I do pair wine with movies.  That's how I get my thrills - at least on Thursdays.  So get your hand out of the "dolly jar" and make sure those red things are cinnamon jellybeans.

Patty Duke is the fresh young face, Sharon Tate is the decoration, Barbara Parkins is the small-town girl in the big city.  Everyone has their own reasons for taking a room in the dollhouse.  Susan Hayward plays the role of aging veteran actress Helen Lawson, who takes full-bore diva bitchiness to a new level.  The role was intended for Judy Garland, but life is supposed to imitate art, not the other way around.

Duke's character is a giant of the pill-popping world.  Need to go to sleep?  There's a pill for that.  Need to wake up?  There's a pill for that, too.  Need to get through that tap dance rehearsal?  Yes, a pill for that.  Need to have some hot starlet sex?  Gotcha covered.

I read somewhere that Champagne was the Viagra of the '60s.  Personally, I like that idea.  Today, say it with me now, there's a pill for that.  A struggling young actress, though, might find it hard to afford Champagne, what with all the pills she buys to make it through a day.

So you don't flip your wig into the toilet, a lower-alcohol Prosecco is about as strong a drink as I'd try with this movie.  You don't want to upset the uppers & downers equilibrium too much.  Il Conte d'Alba 1917 Stella Rosa is only about five percent alcohol, and about as affordable as a bottle of aspirin - only about $10.

The theme song from the movie - a big hit for Dionne Warwick - lyrically suggests "goin' where I'm free."   A few years later, Janis Joplin would punctuate that notion with "freedom's just another word for nothin' left to lose," which would seem a more fitting depiction of this movie's idea of the freedom found in a bottle of pills.

You may want to pop the cork on one of these dolls:
Valley of the Moon Winery - The Sonoma County producer has a couple of Zinfandels worth checking out. $10-$15

Mama's Little Yella Pils - Oskar Blues Brewery of Colorado makes this pilsner beer.  It comes in a can, with the name proudly emblazoned across the front.

There's a pill for that.  Resveratrol pills.  Really?  A pill instead of wine? We're becoming as unhinged as the women in "Valley of the Dolls."

Sparkling Grape Juice - The safest bet, with no alcohol at all.  $2.97 at Walmart.  By the way, if you are a young starlet shopping at Walmart, you need a better agent.


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DOMAINE SIGALAS ASSYRTIKO ATHIRI 2009

A little early for our dinner reservations - and our dining companions - at Cleo in Hollywood's Redbury Hotel, we decided to perch ourselves at the bar and have a nibble and a sip while waiting.  The parade of dressed-to-the-nines twenty-somethings provided quite a fashion show as a background to our snack of wood-fired olives and almonds.

It was a warm early evening in Tinseltown, so I opted for a Greek white wine I spied on the menu.  Greek wines being a bit of a rarity on Los Angeles wine lists, this is an opportunity which doesn't present itself often enough.

From the volcanic Greek island of Santorini, Domaine Sigalas - established in 1991 - is a relative newcomer to a wine culture which has been around for well over 3,000 years.  The island's vineyards are planted primarily to white grape varieties, among them Assyrtiko and Athiri.

This big, dry white wine is made from 75% Assyrtiko and 25% Athiri.  The Assyrtiko grape is notable for maintaining its high acidity level even when quite ripe, possibly due to the Santorini soil, which is full of volcanic ash and pumice.  The Athiri grape contributes a citrus quality.  It's also grown on the island of Rhodes.  The vines from which these grapes come are about 50 years old.

The blend carries an alcohol level of 13.5% by volume and sells for $8 by the glass at Cleo.

Pale yellow in the glass, the nose comes on strong, with a gorgeous whiff of the ocean.  Salinity and citrus mingle for a refreshing aroma profile.  In the mouth the wine is of medium weight and has a crisp and bracing acidity coming out of it's ears.  A strong herbal flavor comes through on the palate which is dominated by tart green apple and lemon zest.

Denise said, "I'm loving the trend of having wood fired olives in Los Angeles restaurants," an observation with which I wholeheartedly agree.  The wine pairs beautifully with the snack, and I can only imagine that it is similarly brilliant with a seafood dish. 

During dinner we had Cambria's Julia's Vineyard Pinot Noir, which seemed to be made especially for the wood-fired lamb Merguez at Cleo.

Learn more about Santorini's history in this captivating and beautifully written piece from Vinography: A Wine Blog,  by Alder Yarrow.


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ITALIAN WINE TASTING AT ENOTECA DRAGO

In Los Angeles, the Drago family is to Italian food and wine as the Rockefeller family is to money.  They know it, they live it, they breathe it.  Wine importer V.E.D.I. Wines brought some of the wines they represent to Enoteca Drago in Beverly Hills recently for an afternoon trade tasting, and I had the good fortune of an invitation.

Here are some of the tasty Italian treats I discovered from Veneto, Lombardia and Abruzzo, along with some sparkling wines from Valencia, Spain.

Cava Pago de Tharsys:

Pago de Tharsys poured those extremely nice sparkling wines produced in Valencia.  There were a lot of earthy notes in these Cavas, and some very interesting grapes.

Rosado Brut 2008:  100% Garnacha; strawberries and earth
Brut Nature 2008:   80% Macabeo, 20% Chardonnay; yeasty and earthy with notes of guava
Tharsys Unico:  100% Bobal; yeasty and crisp with a nutty edge
Dominio de Tharsys Brut:  75% Macabeo, 25% Parellada;  very fruity and fresh
Dominio de Tharsys Rosado:  Bobal; earthy cherry nose, cherry syrup flavor with a hint of banana

Marcato had a couple of notable sparklers from Italy's Lessini Hills of Verona, in the Veneto region.

Durello Spumante Brut:  85% Durella with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay as well; multi-vintage; steel fermented, Charmat method; nutty nose; light and fruity, with a citrus/tropical play
Durello 36 Mesi:  Durella, Pinot Noir & Chardonnay again; creamier, yet still vibrant and fresh; traditional method

Cavalchina is from Veneto.

Cavalchina is the name of the district where this winery is located, on the southeastern border of the Garda amphitheatre.

Bianco di Custoza:  40% Garganega, 30% Fernanda, 15% Trebbiano, 15% Trebbianello; very nutty with a light acidity
Amedeo Biano di Custoza Superiore:  40% Garganega, 30% Fernanda, 15% Trebbiano, 15%Trebbianello:  more acidity than in the Bianco di Custoza
Chiaretto Bardolino:  Rose harvested and vinified separately from the rosso, not as a bleed-off; very light pink with strawberries and flowers
Bardolino:  the red bardolino; gorgeous nose, black cherry and chocolate, unusual for a steel fermented wine; flavor is fruity and floral
Santa Lucia Bardolino Superiore:  60% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 15% Marzemino e Barbera; nice tannic structure, the wood aging doesn't overwhelm

Vigneti Prendina is from Lombardia.

Merlot Garda:  85% Merlot, 15% Rondinella; the grapes are harvested at different times, so separate vinification is required; neutral oak barriques, smokey fruit
Pinot Grigio Alto Mincio: oakless Pinot Grigio with a lovely aroma
Falcone Cabernet Sauvignon:  85%  Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot; dark and smokey; 12 months in barriques

Contesa is in Abruzzo, centrally located in Italy, but considered part of the south.  The region borders the Adriatic Sea.

Nerone:  Montepulciano d'Abruzzo; great drak nose showing tar, tasting of smokey plums
Contesa Montepulciano d'Abruzzo:  great acidity, very smooth; 24 months in large barrels
Vigna Corvino Montepulciano:  very smooth; dusty cherry notes
Vigna Corvino Trebbiano:  stainless steel fermentation; rather like a new world Sauvignon Blanc; grassy and earthy; grape dates back to Roman times in Abruzzo
Vigna Corvino Cerasuolo:  dry rose with a lovely nose; one day skin contact gives a lovely cherry color
Pecorino:  citrus and a nutty quality
Sorab Pecorino:  four weeks barrique fermentation; weightier with delicious use of wood; aged on its lees for 6 months


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WINE CRITICISM AND TRANSPARENCY: TRUSTING YOUR WINE WRITER

If a wine writer accepts remuneration for writing about wine, can that opinion be trusted?  That's the question addressed in the Guardian's Word Of Mouth Blog recently. It's an interesting question, and the blog received numerous comments on both sides of the fence.

Some respected sommeliers are paid a salary to act as consultants for specific wine interests.  Writers are often provided with wine samples at no charge for the purpose of review.  Invitations to wine tasting events and winemaker dinners are the lifeblood of most wine writers, particularly bloggers, who use the information obtained through these freebies to write the articles wine lovers like to read.

Most wine writers try to be transparent about whether the subject of an article was purchased or provided for free.  Many observers feel receiving a bottle of wine or a ticket to an event for free makes the writer beholden to the provider, and thereby throws their credibility into question.

The Wine Writers of New Zealand state their distaste of their members taking so much as a free sample in order to write an article.  The Word Of Mouth Blog feels the practice of accepting freebies may mean wine writers could run afoul of the UK's Bribery Act, although that legislation exempts hospitality.

Commenters below the article ranged from those "fed up with wine writers recommending wines from" major chains and supermarkets" to one who wrote, "I'd quite like wine writers to review wines that I can actually buy.  Reviewing supermarket wine would be just dandy."

It's my understanding that people who write about wine for major publications or corporate websites often must abide by strict rules preventing them from taking samples or free passes in order to write an article.  I know this has been the case with major newspapers, and, in many cases, still is.

Many sommeliers act as advisors to wine regions or have other similar affiliations resulting in income.  Does this negate everything they write about those entities?  Should it?

Like most wine bloggers, I do not earn an income through my wine writing.  I write about many wines I pay for out of my pocket, but most of the articles I write concerning wines and wine events could not be written without the subsidy of a free sample or ticket.  I feel most wine bloggers float in the same boat I am in.  I always strive for honesty when I give my opinion.

It's been my experience that samples or entry to an event provided by a publicist are given with the understanding that the resulting article may not be favorable.  Even the cold heart of a PR person doesn't think writers can be bought off with a bottle of wine.  Of course, there is always the possibility of out-and-out bribery, but I have no direct knowledge of that in my 35-plus years of writing about wine and other things.

I have been asked if I would provide a look at the article before publication.  The answer was - and is - no.  I have attended press junkets which resulted in a less than enthusiastic article.  In at least one case, I did not hear from that publicist again.  One winemaker I queried for a sample refused the request because previous reviews of his wine - by other writers - had not been favorable.

Is it transparent enough to state that a freebie was given?  Do you trust wine writing when you know there was some sort of compensation given to the writer?

Please feel free to leave a comment here, email me at nowandzin@gmail.com or Tweet your feelings to me, @randyfuller1.  I'd love to hear what you think.

RHONE RANGERS WINE TASTING 2011, SANTA MONICA

The posse of Rhone Rangers rode into Santa Monica, California on August 7.  They were on a mission.  With the 22 grape varieties of the Rhone Valley holstered and ready for action, the participating wineries poured and poured.  They poured Syrah, Viognier and Grenache.  They poured Carignane, Cinsault and - when we thought we’d had it all - they poured Mourvèdre.

The Rhone Rangers came to win converts, but from what I heard they were preaching to the choir.  Pier 59 Studios West was packed with Rhone-o-philes who reveled in the grapes of their favorite valley.  The crowds didn’t seem as heavy as they were at last year’s event, but enough of the faithful were lined up for entry during the VIP/trade/media portion that a line formed outside.

I used a bit of technology that was new to me, the iPhone app from Second Glass.  The Rhone Rangers event was available from a handful of events in the app, and the wineries attending were loaded within the app, along with the wines they were pouring.  It was easy to make notes on each wine using this app, but a few changes and additions would make it just about perfect.

The app requires the user to rate the wine before the "notes" tab can be opened.  I like to make notes before deciding on what rating to give a wine.  If notes could be made before assessing a rating, it would make more sense and speed the process at the tasting table.  I felt a little uncomfortable taking the extra time required.

Some wineries poured wines which were not on the list, which required me to leave the app and go to a separate note-taking app. The ability to add wines which are not on the list would be a great feature.

Also, a picture-taking feature within the app would further streamline things for those who like a photo or two of the goings-on.

The app allowed me to rate the wines as "two thumbs up," "one thumb up" and "meh."  These are the wines to which I gave a "two thumbs up" rating:

Anglim Winery Cameo White Rhone Blend 2008 - Viognier from Bien Nacido Vineyard is quite lean.  Grenache Blanc and Roussanne are from Paso Robles.

Bonny Doon Vineyards Clos de Gilroy 2010 - Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah form a tart bond of raspberry and cherry.

Calcareous Vineyard Viognier 2009 - Big fruit, lots of minerals and a great acidity.

Caliza Winery Syrah 2008 - Spicy red fruit.  Great acid and huge tannins.

Calcareous Tres Violet 2007 - Beautiful raspberry tartness.

Conway Family Wines Deep Sea Red 2008 - Rhone grapes meet Lagrein from French Camp Vineyard.  Great acidity and tannins.  Seems to have an Italian feel despite being a primarily Rhone blend.

Cornerstone Cellars Stepping Stone Syrah 2009 - Fabulous acid, with a huge nose and palate.

Curtis Mourvedre 2007 - Very dark nose and palate.  Earthy, chalky, big red fruit from Vogelzang Vineyard.  20% Syrah.

Edward Sellars Vineyards and Winery Mourvèdre 2008 - Huge earthiness, dark fruit and formidable tannins.  Steak mandatory.

Epiphany Cellars Grenache Blanc 2009 - Wonderful minerals and a bracing acidity.

Fess Parker Winery Viognier 2009 - Fruity and floral with a spicy edge.

Fess Parker Winery Rodney’s Vineyard Syrah 2007 - Gigantic nose foreshadows a very dark palate.  Eucalyptus note and a spicy element.

Frick Winery C² - North Coast Carignane and Cinsault, tart and delightful.

Frick Winery C³ - Add Counoise to C².  A bit more tannic, just as delightful.

Halter Ranch Vineyard Rosé 2010 - Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre make an earthy nose leading to fresh berry flavors.  Delightfully dry.

Halter Ranch Vineyard Côtes de Paso Red Blend 2010 - Savory notes highlight this Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Counoise and Cinsault blend.

Michael-David Winery 6th Sense Syrah 2009 - Great acidity with spices, coffee, and chocolate flavors.

Michael-David Winery Earthquake Syrah 2006 - Great fruit, acid, with a cocoa edge.

Michael-David Winery Earthquake Petite Sirah 2009 - Chalky feel with chocolate and Christmas spice.  American oak.

I was told Lodi produces more wine than Napa and Sonoma combined. Did not know that.

Niner Wine Estates Syrah Bootjack Ranch 2007 - Smooth, yet the tannins are firm.  Dusty fruit.

Niner Wine Estates Grenache Blanc 2010 - First Heart Hill Vineyard vintage.  Fruitier than Grenache Blanc usually is.  From the cool side of Heart Hill.  Great acid.

Ortman Family Vineyards Petite Sirah 2007. Only 4 barrels produced. Dark and deep on the nose and palate. Cassis, raspberry, touch of mint. Big tannins, long finish.

Ortman Grenache Rosé 2010 - Just bottled. Dry, laced with watermelon and red berries.

Tercero Grenache Blanc Camp 4 Vineyard 2010 - Acisity is right on.

Tercero Mourvèdre Camp 4 Vineyard 2008 - Dark and vibrant red fruit with earth piled on.

Tercero Cuvée Christie Red Blend 2008 - Very smooth, strawberry and cherry.

Tercero Cuvée Loco Red Blend 2008 - Larry Shaffer’s kids named this Larner Vineyard product, which is crazy with the dark earthiness.

Tercero's Larry Schaffer told me he is opening a tasting room in Los Olivos, right across from Stolpman.  It shares a walll with the Dragontette room.

Treana Winery Troublemaker Red Blend NV - Great dark nose, excellent acidity.

BLOOD OF THE VINES: THE MUMMY

Wine Goes To The Movies
with NowAndZin.com and TrailersFromHell.com
This time, Blood Of The Vines rolls out the blood-red carpet for Christopher Lee, who played the title role in the 1959 Hammer Films remake of "The Mummy."  It's a fitting tribute to a guy who already has the horror angle well covered.  Now he's been praised with wine as well.

Lee received a Lifetime Achievement Award this year from the Grossmann Film And Wine Festival, an annual event in northeastern Slovenia.  They honor the best in movie horror each year, as well as the best of Slovenia's wine.  The week-long festival featured blood donations and a Vampire Ball in addition to movie screenings and wine tasting.  The winners got an award called a Vicious Cat.  If the Vicious Cat had to fight Oscar, my money would be on the cat.

My wife, Denise Fondo, has asked me to include at this juncture that there is no bigger fan of either Christopher Lee or Hammer Films than she.  If she's looking to butter up someone in an effort to sell a screenplay, I'm completely in agreement.  If she's looking to get something started with Christopher Lee, I may have to intercede and invoke "husband rules."  Denise says with Lee being a Tory, her admiration must be from afar.

Christopher Lee's portrayal of the Mummy gets high marks from Trailers Guru Brian Trenchard-Smith.  Since his makeup didn't allow for any speech or facial movement, he had to express his range of emotions only with his eyes - for the camera, at least.  Brian infers that the cursing Lee did while acting in the uncomfortable mummy suit would have made a sociopathic sailor plug his ears.

None of that swearing made it into the movie, of course - thanks to looping - but I wonder if anyone on the set was three decades early in delivering the admonition, "Please don't hurt him, Hammer!"

The wine pairing, in honor of the celebrated company which produced this version of "The Mummy," is from HammerSky Wines.  In honor of Vicious Cat winner Christopher Lee, we'll go with HammerSky's "The 'A' List," ($37), a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc from Paso Robles.  It's a blood-red blend loaded with fruit and showing a slight undercurrent of tana leaves.

Mummy's the word:

There's a sarcophagus full of Slovenian wine available from Bay Area importer Blue Danube Wine Company at affordable prices.

Lolita Mummy Wine Glass - Hand-painted, no less. - $6

The Wine Mummy - If you really have to try and get a bottle of wine past TSA, go for it.  It's one of those gimmicks I'm inexplicably drawn to. - $5

The Mummy's Hand Wine Goblet - It's actually a skeleton's hand, but what the hell. - $27



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STARTING A WINE COLLECTION

For anyone who is even halfway interested in wine, collecting it can be a rewarding venture for both your palate and your wallet.  Having a treasure trove of remarkable bottles from which to select is nice enough, but collectors who buy wine as an investment also stand to reap benefits in the future.

A recent article in Homes And Gardens offered a few bullet points on how to start and maintain a serious wine collection.

The first thing to do is decide why you are collecting wine.  Do you want to stockpile cases of your favorites?  Do you want a collection that will impress your guests?  Are you looking to buy wines that will appreciate in value as a financial investment?  Answering these questions will determine which wines to pursue, and how much to pay.

Professional guidance is a good idea, especially if you are using wine as an investment.  Many wine experts can be retained to act as your adviser.  The extent to which an outside source can help depends on your own level of knowledge and your desire to get involved in the process.

If you want to start enjoying your collection right away, seek out older vintages which are known to have quality.  If you plan on cellaring your wine for a long time, you can get good prices on wines which are still aging in barrels.  Buying wine this way is called buying en primeur, and while the rewards can be big down the road, so are the risks.  You don't really own anything until the wine is bottled, so if your winery goes out of business before then, you lose.  That's why it's a good idea to stick with well established providers.  Still, there's no guarantee you'll make a profit.

Wines from Bordeaux are considered to be good for investors.  Chinese collectors are buying so much Bordeaux, prices are being forced up.  Burgundy and Rhone wines are considered somewhat riskier.  A lot depends on the the vintage.

Once you start acquiring wine, you'll need a place to store it.  That little rack in the den isn't going to cut it.  If you want to be able to peruse your collection and select a bottle to open from time to time, you'll want to store the wine in your home.  A wine cabinet with temperature and humidity controls is a good option if you can't create an actual wine cellar.

Larger collections will require more space, and you may want to check into a wine storage facility for wines which are to be stored for a long time.  Proper storage is essential for wines purchased as an investment.  Future buyers will want to know the wine was properly handled during the time you owned it, and a "wine hotel" is a great way to assure that.

Proper storage means a constant temperature must be maintained, as temperature variations are the main culprit when stored wine goes bad.  Keeping the bottles stored on their sides in a cool place, with minimal handling, is the correct procedure.


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