FAMILY WINEMAKERS TASTING EVENT - PASADENA 2012

Family Winemakers of California is an organization devoted to giving a voice to small wineries who often don’t have the means to hire big PR firms and woo legislators on their own.  The group has sponsored legislation and litigation intended to give small wine producers the ability to compete in the marketplace.

They also sponsor three tasting events each year - in San Diego, Pasadena and San Francisco.  I attended the Pasadena event on March 13, 2012.  As you can see in photo, it was a well-attended event.

I was hoping to work the "family" angle of this event, and that worked out fairly well, as several nice stories of families working together came forth during the tasting.

Cheryl Emmolo carries on the family wine legacy with sons and wine makers Charlie and Joey Wagner working wonders with fruit from her father's Rutherford vineyard.  The small, Napa Valley winery impresses with their '10 Sauvignon Blanc, fermented in concrete, not steel.  It's fruity with a nice, juicy palate.  The Emmolo '08 Merlot displays outstanding notes of cocoa.

Tony Quealy (right) poured the Halter Ranch wines.  This Paso Robles west side winery utilizes the Picpoul Blanc grape in several of their wines.  Quealy explained, "We have found it grows quite well on our property."  They also like to mix it up a bit in their blends.  Quealy offered at one point that a particular wine had "only five varieties" in it.  The Halter Ranch '11 Cotes de Paso Blanc is a blend of Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Picpoul Blanc and Viognier.  It's a smooth drinker with nuts and citrus leading the way.  Their '11 Rosé has  Grenache, Syrah and Mourvédre joined by Picpoul Blanc for a  dry, earthy pinkie.  Their '08 Cabernet Sauvignon features all five Bordeaux varities and shows off ripe fruit with an earthy edge.  Kevin Sass is the Halter Ranch winemaker.  He spent a decade at Justin Winery.

Paso Robles producer Edward Sellers is located in the Templeton Gap, cooled by Pacific breezes channeled through the mountains.  Winemaker Jeremy Weintraub did a fantastic job with the '07 Cognito, a blend of Mourvédre, Zinfandel, Syrah and Grenache.  It shows big new-world fruit with an old-world finish.

Sonoma County's Fog Crest Vineyard, in the Russian River Valley, poured a pair of Chardonnays and a pair of Pinot Noirs.  The '09 Chardonnays offered a nice and easy touch of oak on one hand, and a steel-fermented fruit expression and acidity on the other.  The '10 Pinot taken from several vineyards bears notes of cocoa, while the Estate Pinot has hints of eucalyptus.

Bennett Valley's Argot Wine was represented by proprietor Karissa Kruse, (left) who poured their delightful '11 Rosé.  It's dry and fresh, perfect for the coming warm weather.  Argot's '11 White Blend of Roussanne and Chardonnay spent 10 months in the barrel and has a nice crème brulée feel with a nutty finish.  Their '08 Syrah was in all new French oak for 30 months, but doesn't seem overoaked at all.  Kruse borrowed a phrase from winemaker Justin Harmon: "You can't over-oak a wine.  You can under-fruit it." 

Hidden Ridge Vineyard is a high-elevation vineyard on the west side of Spring Mountain in Sonoma County.  Their '06 and '07 Cabernet Sauvignon are both very dark and concentrated.

Temecula's Monte De Oro Winery has four vineyards covering 72 acres of Temecula Valley soil.  Their wines have a very interesting aroma profile across the board, even the dessert wine.  It's a sort of a chalky, rocky note which I find quite intriguing.  Their '05 Synergy is a blend of Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Zinfandel.  It's a nice effort which shows off the different aspects of the various varieties.  Monte De Oro's '10 Zinfandel is one of the smoothest Zins I've had.  The dessert wine - Legato - is a Zinfandel and Cinsault mix.

Anomaly Vineyards rests at the foot of Napa Valley's Mayacamas Mountains, in St. Helena.  Their '08 Cab also features Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, and shows big, dark fruit.

Clavo Cellars winemaker Neil Roberts (right) showed off his '08 Desperado Paso RoblesPaso Zinfandel, brimming with earth and chocolate.

The Ancient Peaks table had a prominently placed piece of oyster shell on the table, exhibiting the source of the amazing terroir of their Margarita Vineyard.  The '10 Sauvignon Blanc is fruity and angularwith some great citrus notes.  The seabed soil really shines through.  Their '10 Cabernet is oaked for 15 months.  It's a cooler vintage and shows bright acidity.

The Conway Family calls Arroyo Grande home, and they really are a family affair.  Chris and Ann Conway and their five kids share the ownership of the winery and estate vineyards.  Winemaker Jonathan Médard outdid himself with the '08 Rancho Arroyo Grande Estate Syrah - an incredibly dark and amazingly intense wine.

Corte Riva Vineyards in St. Helena made good on the family aspect of the event.  Richie Rivera (left) represented the wines of his father, Romel Rivera, and his uncle, Lawrence Cortez.  The pair came to America from the Phillipines in the 1970s and have been involved in the wine business since then.  The '10 Rosé of Merlot has great fruit and acidity, while the Cabernet Franc shows great tannic structure along with a zippy acidity.  The Cortez 78 Firepit Blend is an excellent second label effort for the family.  Rivera said it shows "the Merlot on the nose, the Zin on the mid-palate and the kick of the Petite Sirah on the finish."

Beckman Vineyards poured a great '10 Le Bec Blanc, a blend of Marsanne, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Viognier.  American oak helps give great spices to this one.  Beckman's '09 Grenache - from their Purisima Mountain vineyard - is just plain luscious on the mid-palate and very dry on the finish. 

Time ran short and I didn't get to taste much from Santa Barbara County's Tantara Winery, but Ernie Vandegrift saw my "Now And Zin" name tag and said, "Here - try this.  It's kinda Zin-like."  It was the '09 Tantara Syrah, big and powerful.

Clos Pepe's winemaker Wes Hagen (right) was letting his freak flag fly, as he likes to say.  He was preaching his Pinots to the choir, as it were.  He never fails to draw a crowd at tasting events with his presentation, which always makes me think of a tree-stump orator with the flash and sizzle to keep a crowd enthralled.

Tercero's Larry Shaffer had the beakers out, but, alas, his table full of Rhones was another one I missed due to time constraints.

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BLOOD OF THE VINES - EASY RIDER

Have you ever been riding your chopper down a southern U.S. highway, lookin' for America and unable to find it?  If so, "Easy Rider" is the movie is for you.  I'll call a spoiler alert here in order to mention that in between the moment you see that shotgun barrel stickin' out of the pickup truck window and the moment it blows the stars and stripes right off your greasy hippie head - you've found it.

Before that moment occurs, maybe you can pull off of Route 666 and visit a southern wine tasting room.  Even if it's Muscadine they're pourin', it's better than what the rednecks have for you.  That Cracker Barrel cheese plate never tasted so good.  If they're servin' meat, be sure to inquire as to which highway it was found on.

All kidding aside, I spent a bit of time riding a mororcycle on southern U.S. highways and only had my life threatened by 18-wheelers passing me on the right shoulder.  That's not to say the sort of escapades encountered by Peter Fonda, Jack Nicholson and Dennis Hopper in "Easy Rider" didn't ever happen. They just didn't ruin my Mardi Gras.

The movie was a cathartic experience, as I remember it, but now it looks dated.  TFH guru Michael Lehmann has the same opinion, which he talks about in his commentary on the trailer.  But even in 1969, young and wet behind the ears, I knew that riding a Harley chopper through the bible belt with a joint in your throttle hand and the American flag on your head was a pretty stupid thing to do.  That freak-flag-flying trio might not have been able to find America, but they sure knew where to look for trouble.

Gitcher motor runnin' and head out on the highway for V-Twin Vineyards in Sonoma County.  Scott and Lisa Del Fava merged their passion for wine and motorcycles and produce such delights as V-Twin Zin in Dry Creek Valley.  They say it kicks ass, and nothing less would be expected.

Rev up for some other options:

Four Vines Winery "Biker" Zinfandel - Paso Robles Zin has a splash of Mourvédre to kick start the mid-palate.

Robert Stein Winery and Vineyard - A collection of affordable Australian wines adorned with classic bikes. $15

Harley Davidson Bar and Shield Wine Glass - Dishwasher safe, but no guarantees if you use it in a fight. $9

Hog Cycle Wine Bottle Holder - It'll hold your wine bottle - and your girl, if you don't watch out. $50

Pewter Motorcycle Wine Stopper - Not a chopper, but maybe the handlebars wouldn't fit into the fridge. $20

The Kingman Wine and Food Festival has a car and motorcycle show this year.


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FIRESTONE WALKER TAPS PASO FOR NEW RESTAURANT

Here's the press release about a new restaurant for Paso Robles set to open on March 15, 2012.  Locally-grown food ingredients and local wine and beer are promised.

Paso Robles, CA — Firestone Walker Brewing Company is advancing its commitment to local flavor with the upcoming official opening of The Taproom restaurant in Paso Robles on Thursday, March 15.

 

Located adjacent to the brewery at 1400 Ramada Drive, The Taproom offers a full-service dinner menu with a focus on locally grown ingredients and wines as well as a broad selection of fresh-brewed Firestone Walker beers.  The restaurant and accompanying bar are open daily from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.

 

“The Taproom is an extension of our brewing philosophy—the finest and freshest ingredients, prepared with care and presented from a distinctively regional perspective,” said co-proprietor Adam Firestone.  “It fits the larger celebration of the culture of food, wine and beer on the Central Coast.”

 

The Taproom menu blends traditional California cuisine with other influences to create what co-proprietor David Walker calls “brewhouse bistro cooking.”  Signature dishes include Grilled Pork Chops brined and prepared with a DBA beer mustard demi-glaze, and served with sweet potato fries and sautéed broccolini;  Beto’s Fish Tacos made with crispy halibut, avocado and paprika lime dressing, and served with jicama fruit salad;  a Taproom Burger with Kobe beef topped with cheddar, lettuce, tomato, caramelized onions and chipotle mayo on a potato bun;  and the 805 Salad made with fresh, locally sourced organic greens tossed with shallot thyme vinaigrette and topped with goat cheese and crostini.  The menu also includes five different wood-oven pizzas, including a steak and cheddar pizza and portabella mushroom pizza. 

 

Themed specials will be offered each night of the week as well, such as pasta specials on Mondays and steak specials on Saturdays.  Featured local ingredient providers include Windrose Farm, Thomas Hill Organics, Olea Farm olive oil and Joebella Coffee Roasters.  Ingredients from the brewing process will also be incorporated into select dishes, such as spent grains used to make pizza crusts, and “beer honey” made with sweet beer from the early stages of fermentation.  

 

“The motto at the brewery is ‘fresh and local,’ and we want that to be reflected in our dishes and wine list as well,” said General Manager Rob Giesler, noting that Brewmaster Matt Brynildson has developed friendships with numerous winemakers whom he has conscripted into his annual blending team for crafting the brewery’s acclaimed anniversary ales.  “Matt’s team has a prominent presence on our list.”

 

Designed and built by local craftsmen, The Taproom features a spacious modern ambiance that echoes the brewery environment, including brushed steel, corrugated metal, rustic wood and copper appointments.  Design touches include a mini “bottling line” with bottled beers circling over the bar;  a deconstructed brewing tank that serves as the entrance to the restrooms, with the floor of the tank serving as the host station;  and the original Firestone Union oak barrel brewing system mounted on the far wall.

 

Seating includes booths and tables, as well as long-table seating, whereby patrons sit side-by-side for a community dining experience.  A patio offers outdoor dining, and the bar features numerous Firestone Walker beers, including ongoing special releases.  The restaurant is staffed by 64 local employees.  Maximum inside seating for the main dining room and bar is 234 patrons.

 

“Whether you are a visitor or a local, we want the dining experience to have a real neighborhood feel, with high-quality but friendly food that goes great with our beers and wines,” Giesler said. 

 

The Taproom accepts reservations at (805) 225-5911 ext. 800.  For more information, visit Firestone Beer.

I'm told the wines featured at The Taproom will include selections from Tablas Creek, Curtis, Saxum, Terry Hoage, Linne Colado, Thacher, Andrew Murray, Cass, L'Aventure, Jarhead, Hearst Ranch, Storm, Brochelle and Halter Ranch. 

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PALI HUNTINGTON PINOT NOIR SANTA BARBARA COUNTY 2010

Pali Wine Company specializes in making Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in their Lompoc, California facility.  Their Pinots are made from grapes grown in what their website refers to as “top locations” - California’s Sonoma Coast, Sta. Rita Hills AVAs and Oregon’s Willamette Valley.  Founders Tim Perr and Scott Knight hail from the coastal SoCal community of Pacific Palisades, which is why their wines are named after neighborhoods there.

Pali plans to increase their production this year, and open a tasting room in downtown Santa Barbara, too.  They were kind enough to provide some samples for the purpose of this article.

I wrote about the Pali Riviera Pinot recently.  It was a Sonoma Coast product, while the Huntington is made from Santa Barbara County grapes.  The wine is aged for ten months in 30% new French oak barrels.  It sells for $21 and sports a 14.6% alcohol content.

The Huntington's dark purple color is a precursor to a nose that is amazing.  There's cassis up front, and further sniffing reveals aromas of chocolate syrup, coffee and spiced tea in a remarkably fresh and vibrant setting.  Smelling this wine is really a treat.  The palate shows ripe, dark fruit.  Black cherry and dark plums leap right out, with faint coffee notes and a finish of black cherry cola which hangs around quite a while.  The tannins are nice and firm - it's not a shy wine, and it may not be for Pinot purists.  There's a Syrah-like quality to it - that's how big and rich the Huntington drinks.

The wine is so big - even by California standards - I sent an email asking for verification that it was actually 100% Pinot Noir.  Winemaker Aaron Walker replied:

"The 2010 Huntington (and all Pali Pinots for that matter) is 100% Pinot Noir. We have never blended any other varietals into any of our pinots.

"Most of our 2010 pinots are very big and fruit forward - it was the late heat at the end of the growing season that produced this style. The 2010 summer/growing season was very cool, with very little significant heat until late September and early October when we saw two big heat waves. In most cases this caused the grapes to ripen (almost to the point of being over ripe) very rapidly. This resulted in wines that are big, jammy and very fruity. I can see why you might think there is some syrah in this wine - but truly it is 100% pinot noir from vineyards in Santa Maria Valley and Sta Rita Hills.

"And if you think that wine is big, you should try our 2010 Summit - 100% Sta Rita Hills pinot noir - it is massive!"

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CENTRAL COAST WINE DAY

The California Central Coast wine region has a hashtag day coming up!  If you use Twitter in order to converse with other wine lovers - or #winelovers - you have no doubt seen entries utilizing the hashtag - # - to raise the profile of a specific grape variety on its special day.  Now get ready for #CCWineDay.

That's the hashtag designation to use on March 15, 2012 as you tweet up your favorite Central Coast wine.  Presumably, you may also toot the horn of your favorite Central Coast winery, vineyard, wine bar or wine store.  Whatever helps make the Central Coast wine region worthy of recognition is fair game.  It's a huge appellation, stretching from Southern California to Monterey Bay, so there should be no shortage of worthy hashtag recipients.

The whole day is expected to feature plenty of Twitter activity in the #CCWineDay hashtag, but the biggest concentration is expected between 5:00 and 7:30 p.m. on March 15th.  

See the EventBrite page for a partial listing of those participating, and if you'd like more information on getting involved, email mark@HahnFamilyWines.com.  Hahn Family Wines has been kind enough to provide some samples to Now And Zin which I will be tasting and tweeting about on Central Coast Wine Day.

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EXPLORING BEAUJOLAIS: CHÉNAS

Lately, Now And Zin has explored France’s Beaujolais region, and the crus that lie within it.  This time, we sample a bit of the Chénas cru.

Chénas is the smallest of the ten Beaujolais Cru regions.  Saint-Amour is to the north, while its neighbor to the south, Moulin-A-Vent, now possesses many of the vineyards once claimed by Chénas.  Oak trees were once predominant in the Chénas countryside, hence the name.  A chéne is an oak forest, perhaps one that became French oak barrels for wine.

Wines from Chénas are prized and said to contain aromas of roses.  The wines from good vintages are thought to age well for up to 15 years.  As with the other red wines of Beaujolais, Chénas wines are made from 100% Gamay grapes.

The wine I tasted was a 2009 Chénas by Pascal Granger, a vigneron whose estate is located in the Juliénas Cru, but extends into Chénas.  His wines are imported by Rosenthal Wine Merchant of New York, a company which likes to deal in artisanal wines "produced in as natural a manner as possible," according to the importer information on the back label.

Here's a little about Granger from the Rosenthal website:

"The Domaine Pascal Granger is located in the hamlet of Les Poupets within the village of Juliénas in the heart of the finest sector of the Beaujolais district.  This estate has been in the Granger family for over two hundred years, dating to Napoleonic times, and has passed from father to son continually.  The domaine encompasses 14 hectares with vineyard holdings in the home village of Juliénas and extending through the neighboring villages of Jullié, Chénas, La Chapelle de Guinchay and Leynes.  All harvesting is done manually and treatments in the vineyards are minimal with weed-growth tolerated between the vines."

Chénas constitutes the "smallest holdings of the estate.  The vineyards are spread between the villages of Chénas and La Chapelle-de-Guinchay in the northern sector of the Beaujolais district.  After a period of eight to ten days of fermentation, the wine is racked into vats until the following spring when it is bottled."

The Granger Chénas is very dark.  Light does get through, but just barely.  The floral notes come across distinctly on the nose.  There is an earthy element, too, but it resides beneath the flowers.  This wine has a wonderfully refreshing acidity and a nice tannic structure, too.  The palate shows a restrained blackberry flavor with an earthiness riding over it.


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BLOOD OF THE VINES - I WAS A TEENAGE WEREWOLF

When I was in college - way back when - the student center had a room where a different video each week was piped in and played continuously.  I would plop down between classes - when we weren't drinking something horrible at the school newspaper office - and catch fifteen minutes or so of whatever they were showing.  By the end of the week I had probably seen the whole feature - in bits and pieces out of sequence.  I saw "Lemmings" that way, and "Groove Tube."

I also saw the 1957 horror classic "I Was A Teenage Werewolf" that way, and it was a delightful week.  It may have been the movie, or it may have been the horrible stuff we were drinking at the newspaper.  After so much time, I'll charitably attribute it to the film.

The movie stars Michael Landon, before his "Bonanza" days and waaaay before his "Little House on the Prairie" days.  It also stars Whit Bissell, a great character actor who was in so many films of the 1950s you'd think he came with the cameras.  For no apparent reason - or maybe because of the horrible stuff - Whit became one of my favorites, and I watched anything in which he appeared.

In "Teenage Werewolf," Landon plays the troubled young man while Bissell plays the troubled older man.  That's a lot of trouble there, and that starts with T and that rhymes with C and that stands for cool, which is how I rate this film.

What else but Werewolf Cabernet Sauvignon for this film?  The website exclaims the wine is "notable for its dark red color."   Well, I would hope so.  They also make a Pinot Grigio, which is notable for its lack of red color.  At seven dollars per bottle, you sometimes have to take whatever color you get.  You just hope it's not too horrible.

Wolf down some of these:

Piggs Peake Werewolf Zinfandel/Shiraz - Zinfandel in Australia!  Who knew?  $80

How wine can turn you into a werewolf - "A bottle a night, two a night on weekends" ?? Werewolf tendencies could be the least of your problems.

Wolff Vineyards in Edna Valley - Beautiful wine country, just outside San Luis Obispo and not a werewolf in sight.

Stone Wolf Vineyards in Oregon's Willamette Valley - The stone wolf guards the vineyards.  Finally, a good guy wolf!

Grey Wolf Cellars in Paso Robles - On the label: "Life is too short to drink bad wine."

Wolf Mountain Vineyards & Winery in Georgia - They are in the foothills of the southern Appalachian Mountains.

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CIMARONE 3CV CILLA’S BLEND 2009

The Cimarone 3CV Bank appeared earlier on Now And Zin.  It's a Bordeaux blend with a bit of Syrah.  Now let's try their 3CV Cilla's Blend, which reverses the math and mixes 69% Syrah with Bordeaux varieties: 20% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec, 4% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon.  The alcohol content is 14.5% abv and the wine sells for $18.

The source for all this fruit is Cimarone's Three Creek Vineyard in the Happy Canyon AVA of Santa Barbara County, in the warm, eastern clime of the Santa Ynez Valley.  The blend sees 20 months in new and neutral French oak barrels.  Cimarone owner Roger Higgins named the blend after his wife, Priscilla.  He calls it “a wine of beauty and elegance - just like Cilla.”  

Doug Margerum was the winemaker for this effort.  Now, Andrew Murray has come on board and will be Cimarone’s winemaker for future vintages.  Cimarone kindly provided a sample of Cilla's Blend. 

There's a big whiff of alcohol upon opening, but this is not an issue after decanting.  The gorgeous fruit is dark.  Blackberries and blueberries play against an undercurrent of bell pepper, black pepper and sage.  The herbal angle features prominently, but the fruity aspect leads the way.  

The wine sports a great tannic structure and mouth watering acidity.  It's a big wine, with an intense flavor, and herbal notes linger on the finish.  I'd pair this with a rosemary steak.

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BRISTOL’S HARD APPLE CIDER BRISTOL’S HARD APPLE CIDER

The Southern California thermometer nudged up over the 80 degree mark in early March, and the contacts on my Facebook page were all gassed about getting out and grilling a steak.  It always amazes me when that first 80-degree day rolls around.  The roads to the beaches are clogged, outdoor restaurants can’t get enough tables on the sidewalk and the grills are a-blazin’.

It amazes me because, generally speaking, Southern California weather is not too far off the 80-degree mark all winter.  Why people in Los Angeles feel they need to be “spared from old man winter” is confounding to me.  

Sure, Southern California has its share of days when the high temperature doesn’t get out of the 50s.  You should hear the complaining then.  Folks in Michigan and Vermont and Ohio consider a high in the 50s to be the harbinger of spring.   

The SoCal beaches are crowded all year, sidewalk tables are always an option and we can pretty much grill anytime we like. Why wait?

Even so, after a long winter of fighting off that 60-degree chill with a 65-degree red wine, I have my own little springtime celebration.  When that 80-degree mark hits SoCal - while other parts of the country are still having to shovel snow - I like to break out a summer beverage.  

I purchased Bristol’s Hard Apple Cider at the Lone Madrone tasting room in Paso Robles for $12.50 in the summer of 2011, and I understand the cider is sold out now.  

Credited on the label as being produced and bottled by the Traditional Company of Colfax, California,  I couldn't find any info about that organization.  The apples come from See Canyon in San Luis Obispo and the cider carries a 6.6% abv number.

The Lone Madrone website says this about the Bristol’s Hard Apple Cider:

“This Zummerzet style cider was fermented in retired oak wine barrels and stainless steel tank. The cider is finished in bottle with champagne yeast a practice which yield's tiny yet vigorous bubbles. Made with See Canyon apples, it is dry, dry, dry with with crisp apple on the palate.”

The bouquet is all apple, all the time.  I was a little surprised, since I expected the influence from the oak barrels to be more significant.  It’s a very nice aroma, quite fresh and intense.  The palate offers more apples, and a generous amount of bubbling action in the mouthfeel.  As advertised, it’s dry, not sweet, and it went quite well on a warm afternoon with a fresh tomato salad.

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POMAR JUNCTION VINEYARD & WINERY: BROOSTER CAB, SYRAH, ZIN BLEND

The Merrill family can boast of an eight-generation lineage in the California farming industry, stretching back to the Mission era.  The almond and fruit orchards eventually became the Pomar Junction vineyard.  They also have a heritage in the railroad business, which is why you’ll find a boxcar and caboose on the grounds of the winery.  They stand as a tribute to Marsha Merrill’s grandfather, the railroad engineer.

Dana and Marsha Merrill handle the farming and business end with son Matthew, while winemaker Jim Shumate turns the sustainably-raised grapes into their small-lot wines.  Pomar Junction estate fruit - along with choice lots from other vineyards managed by their Mesa Vineyard Management company - are grown in what the Merrills say is the most environmentally conscious way possible.

Dana Merrill was ahead of the curve on the sustainability issue, helping found the Central Coast Vineyard Team.  That organization’s mission statement says they “identify and promote the most environmentally safe, viticulturally and economically sustainable farming methods, while maintaining or improving quality and flavor of wine grapes.”

Pomar Junction Vineyard was one of the first to be certified by the SIP program - Sustainability in Practice - an honor which “recognizes a vineyard’s commitment to environmental stewardship, equitable treatment of employees, and economic stability.”  It took the Merrills six years to bring the vineyard up to their standards - and those of the CCVT.

Fittingly, Pomar Junction will be the site of the 2012 Earth Day Food & Wine Festival on April 21, an event which showcases sustainably produced wine and food products.

Pomar Junction kindly provided Now And Zin with a sample of their Brooster Red Wine Pomar Junction Vineyard, Paso Robles 2010.

This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Zinfandel also utilizes estate fruit and has a moderate - for Paso - 14.3% alcohol level.  It’s aged in neutral French oak, retails for $18 and has a Stelvin screw cap closure.  

Brooster's nose offers quite a whiff of alcohol at first, so breathing or decanting is a must.  The fruit aromas are dark and tarry, with a hint of bramble.  On the palate, that dark fruit leads the way with the tar close behind.  There are notes of coffee and tea adding complexity and the tannins are rather forceful in this very dry wine.  I liked it more with each sip.

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BLOOD OF THE VINES - FROM HELL IT CAME

If ever there was a movie that deserved a wine pairing, 1957's "From Hell It Came" would be the one.  In fact, something stronger might be in order to make this "walking tree" movie bearable.  Chief Trailers From Hell guru Joe Dante points out in his commentary on the trailer, it's probably one of the worst movies of the 1950s.  Dante notes, that when "a long shot of a stick falling over is considered worthy of being included in the trailer, it goes to show there's not a lot (of action) to choose from."  Maybe the stick just had a little too much wine.

Forget the plot - the monster is a tree.  What more do we need to know?  The talking trees in "The Wizard of Oz" were not only scarier, they probably had more screen time - and more action.  Dante cites one reviewer who commented that, since the tree came from Hell, it may as well go back there.   It can't be coincidence that the Trailers From Hell blog goes under the name "From Hell It Came."

The natural wine pairing for a movie featuring a walking tree monster is Twisted Oak Wineryin California's Calaveras County.  Their Rhone blend called *%#&@! (rhymes with "What the *%#&@!") is perfect, since that may well be what you're saying by fifteen minutes into this 

picture.  It's an $18 bottle, which may seem expensive considering the quality of the movie.

Branching out for some other wine choices:

d'Arenberg Stump Jump Shiraz McLaren Vale 2008 - The stump jump plough was invented to clear land peppered with scrub brush stumps.  Your mileage on "walking tree" stumps may vary.  $9

Black Stump Wines - Australian for "the middle of nowhere," black stump is also a neat descriptor for the monster in "From Hell It Came.".

Hells Canyon Winery - A boutique winery in Idaho's Snake River Valley, their Seven Devils Red is actually anything but hellish.

Hell Hole Semillon - From Meerea Park Wines in Australia's Hunter Valley, this refreshing white was no doubt named by those who harvest the grapes in this warm climate region.  Be careful which tree you seek for shade.

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WINE COUNTRY IOWA: TABOR HOME VINEYARDS AND WINERY

The Now And Zin Wine Country series will stay in Iowa a while longer, as some more wineries have provided samples of their Iowa wines.  I was quite impressed with Iowa wine in my first encounter with it, and couldn't wait to try some more and see if the quality stayed high.

Tabor Home Vineyards and Winery is owned by Dr. Paul Tabor, who is also the winemaker.  His family farm in Baldwin, Iowa - 170 miles west of Chicago and 40 miles south of Dubuque - was a grain and cattle operation since the 1860s.  A six-acre vineyard was planted in 1989 and the winery was built in 1996.
Tabor Home is located in the Upper Mississippi River Valley AVA, which covers nearly 30,000 square miles.  AVA status was approved in 2009 for this region, snaking through  northeast Iowa, northwest Illinois, southeast Minnesota and southwest Wisconsin.  The soils of the area are generally clay and silt loam on bedrock and limestone.

Toast of Iowa 2010

This sparkler is made from La Crosse grapes, 70% of which are grown in Tabor Home’s estate vineyard while 30% come from a grower 30 miles away.  The 11.5% alcohol level is reasonable by anyone’s standards, and Dr. Tabor writes that he “kept residual sweetness lower (2.8% RS) so not to mask” the delicate fruit flavors of the La Crosse.  The wine retails for $16 and comes with a bottlecap closure.  The bottle has no punt, by the way.  It's flat on the bottom.

Not truly a sparkler, but definitely a bubbler, Toast of Iowa is labeled as a "carbonated wine."  It has a very light tint in the glass and shows tons of bubbles at first, dissipating quickly.  The nose is highly aromatic and yeasty with apricot fighting it out with an earthy minerality to come in second behind the yeast.  The palate does feature a sweetness, but it's very restrained.  The acidity is marvelous and flavors of apricot and golden plums rise up on the bubbles.  An extraordinary Sweet Tart finish comes as a pleasant surprise.  I would have thought La Crosse lovers would have liked a sweeter version of this, but I'm sure the doctor knows his market.  It certainly hits me the right way.

JackSon Red 2010
This is an estate wine, with all the grapes grown in the Tabor Home vineyard.  The name “JackSon Red” references the doctor’s father, Jack, as well as the winery’s location in Jackson County.  Its alcohol is quite restrained, at 13.4% abv.  Dr. Tabor recommends it to those who enjoy Pinot Noir.

It’s not a Pinot, of course, but is produced from the Marechal Foch grape.  Foch is a cold-hardy grape which has apparently found some favor in Iowa - the previous Iowa winery in the series, Schade Creek, makes good use of Foch grapes.  The wine sells for $14.

In the glass the wine looks very dark - light barely gets through.  Its inviting nose has extremely dark, old world aromas.  Blackberry plays equally with tar, tobacco and anise.  Denise said each time I sampled it that "it smells yeasty, like baking bread."

As someone who drinks California wine a lot, the palate seems almost alien to my taste.  Had I not known it was produced in Iowa, I may have guessed Spain.  The fruit is quite restrained and a lovely minerality rivals it for attention.  An herbal flavor comes just short of tasting green, and reminds me more of sage than bell pepper.  The medium weight of the wine and the gentle tannins combine to make an extremely drinkable beverage.  I see this pairing with a chicken sausage, or lamb, quite well.

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BEVERLY HILLS WINE FESTIVAL 2012 RECAP

It was Academy Awards Sunday in Los Angeles on February 26, 2012, so making it through the limousine-heavy traffic to the Beverly Hilton was a little more difficult than usual.  Once there, the reward was a few hours of pleasure at the Beverly Hills Wine Festival.  Braving the traffic was worth it.

The organizers put on a great show.  The layout looked a little fancier than last year's event.  The room in which the festival was held was decked out in chandeliers while a big screen - make that huge screen - monitor allowed those interested in the Oscar red carpet action from Hollywood to keep abreast of all the arrivals.  A big band (right) provided sets of entertainment throughout the afternoon and there was even a psychic on hand with an array of tarot cards spread out.  Maybe some tasters were getting a little last-minute help in filling out their Oscar pools.

On the down side, a funky numbering system and a lack of identifying signage made it a bit difficult to find specific wineries one might be looking for, but most people seemed to enjoy just making their way from table to table, sampling whatever came their way.

TGIC Importers poured mainly from their international collection, with Ironstone's Obsession being the only domestic I spotted on their table.  The semi-sweet wine made from the Symphony grape has a nice sweetness with a streak of citrus acidity.  Omaka Springs New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc shows grass and grapefruit, while the '09 Montes Alpha Carménere from Chile's Colchagua Valley has gobs of black cherry in an extremely smooth setting. 

My first taste of Malibu's Malibu Rocky Oaks, was provided by distributor Andrew Figge (left), owner of Central California Wines.  Figge poured a very nice rosé of Pinot Noir, a fruity and steely Chardonnay, a dark and peppery Syrah and a Cabernet Franc with great fruit and oak spice.  All the fruit is estate grown 2,000 feet up in the Santa Monica Mountains.

Field Vineyards is situated on the Russian River in the Alexander Valler AVA of Sonoma County.  They poured a vertical tasting of their Katarina Cabernet Sauvignons from 2003, 2004 and 2006.  All three have wonerful, rich bouquets and the '04 is my favorite with a darker fruit expression than the other two.

The Reyes Winery table was enlightening for me.  I had not been acquainted with this winery in Agua Dulce, north of Los Angeles an hour or so.  I also was unaware they have an appellation now, the Sierra Pelona Valley AVA.  Reyes Winery is only about a year old, and they're already winning awards with their wines.  Robert Reyes (right) turned a former frog farm into a vineyard, and he has produced a prince of a Chardonnay.  Its color is so rich and golden - like a Sauternes - and has such an array of spicy flavors, I was surprised to learn it was produced unoaked, in stainless steel.  Their rosé is a blend of Chardonnay and Muscat, with Syrah for color.  The Cabernet Sauvignon has supple tannins, the Syrah tastes bigger and the Merlot is bigger still.  It's worth a trip up the Antelope Valley Freeway to explore Reyes Winery.

The Pacific Coast Vineyards table was staffed by Tammy and Todd Schaefer.  Winemaker Todd said, "I'm a little nervous about pouring the newly-bottled 2010 Pinot Noir."  With a history of awards and high scores behind him, it seemed his jitters were unneccessary.  The thrilling acidity and brilliant tart cherry flavor of his most recent Pinot supported that feeling.

It's all Italian varieties at Sunland Vintage Cellars, a Ventura County winery.  Proprietor Michael Giovinazzo told me they source their fruit from a variety of great California growing regions.  He cited Lodi, Santa Barbara County and Pixley, California as some of his fruit sources.  I drew a laugh when I asked if Pixley was near the Hooterville AVA, but Giovinazzo is an easy audience, as affable as they come.  He explained, "if you take the 99 and hit Fresno, you've missed it."  Giovinazzo's Tre Ragazzi is a non-vintage blend of '08 Nebbiolo, '09 Barbera and '10 Sangiovese.  His '07 Dolcetto shows great acidity and a strong tannic structure.  The '07 Nebbiolo has a nose which is almost port-like in its intensity.

Rancho Ventavo Cellars' owner and winemaker George Gilpatrick poured some of his wines, produced at his winery in Oxnard.  The '07 Lodi Zinfandel shows nice, dusty tannins, while the '08 Mourvèdre from Santa Barbara County is full of bright, red fruit.  "Since we don't make any whites, that's our fish wine," quipped Gilpatrick.  He says it goes great with grilled mahi mahi.  The '06 Petite Sirah is a 50/50 blend from a vineyard in Paso Robles and one in Santa Barbara County.  It's rich with a tart undercurrent.

Mike Stan (left) of Ritual Wine Company was thoroughly enjoying his return engagement at this event.  He happily poured his '09 Paso Robles Viognier with its fruit salad nose and tropical palate culminating in a nice, tart finish.  High marks for acidity on his '09 Grenache and '09 

Cabernet Franc.  "This Franc is the first 100% single varietal wine we've made," he said.  His '08 GSM is a light and breezy red produced using whole-cluster pressing.  "The big crowd pleaser today is The New Black," said Stan, referring to his blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Grenache blend.  The tasters at the table with me certainly seemed pleased to be sampling it.  Stan invited me to come back later for a vertical tasting of Mourvèdre, but the traffic in the room delayed me.  Hey, that's L.A. for you.  There's even traffic inside.

Naked Grape poured their full line of unoaked wines.  I liked their Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon just fine.  Both have a lively acidity and the fresh flavors of the fruit leap out, unencumbered by the influence of oak.

D'Anbino Vineyards & Cellars of Paso Robles shows the time the owners spent in the recording industry.  Their '07 Quadrophonic is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah.  The '07 Orchestration is a Syrah blend, while the '07 Portamento is a Cab-based port-style wine.  It's lush, with a great acidity.

Blue Plate Wines is practically brand new, and they showed their only offering so far, a Clarksburg Chenin Blanc which also sports some Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.  The grapefruit and other citrus notes are abetted by a razor blade acidity.  The wine already has a "Best In Class" award to its credit.

Although the wine was the focal point of this event, there were some very tasty treats on display.  Sweets from the Pacific Cheesecake Company,  Randy's Brownies and Desserts and Amella Artisan Cocoa Butter Caramels were a delight, and Marcus Cavalier of Deuvo Gourmet Swets had two pralines to sample.  His sea salt and espresso pralines were both pretty awesome.  A cliché, to be sure, but it fits here.  

Wine and dessert intersected at Chocolate Shop.  They infuse red wine with chocolate in the bottling process.  The result is a dry red wine with an overwhelming chocolate experience added to it.  It's quite a decadent mixture of two great joys.

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