Friday, September 17, 2021

Blood Of The Vines - Trains Of Events

Pairing‌‌‌ ‌‌‌wine‌‌‌ ‌‌‌with‌‌‌ ‌‌‌movies!‌‌‌  ‌‌‌See‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌hear‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌fascinating‌‌‌ ‌‌‌commentary‌‌‌ ‌‌‌for‌‌‌ ‌‌‌these‌‌‌ ‌‌‌‌‌movies‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌many‌‌‌ ‌‌‌more‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌at‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌From‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Hell.‌‌‌  This week's trio of films takes its name from the 1949 movie, Train of Events, which tells various stories as a train hurtles toward an explosive end.  Let's get to watching and drinking before that happens to us.

1952's The Narrow Margin is a film noir lover's film noir.  A "B" movie of its day, the story is tight enough to snap and the cast is a bunch of "who are these guys?"  A dead mob boss no doubt spins in his grave as his widow takes a train from Chicago to Los Angeles to spill in front of a grand jury.  If there is spousal abuse in the afterlife, she'll probably get some.

The banter between the two cops assigned to pick up the widow at Union Station is classic film noir: "She's the sixty-cent special. Cheap. Flashy. Strictly poison under the gravy."  That makes me want to get my Thanksgiving dinner at Carl’s Jr.  The movie poster is noirish, too:  "A fortune if they seal her lips!... A bullet if they fail!"  There never seems to be enough exclamation points for a film noir one-sheet.

Margins Wine owner Megan Bell finds Central Coast vineyards that are "in the margins," over-delivering yet under-appreciated.  She started with a Carmel Valley Chenin Blanc, but her San Benito County Négrette might be better for a film noir.

Strangers on a Train is 1951 Hitchcock.  The two strangers get to know each other quickly - over drinks, naturally, a hallmark of Hitchcock movies.  Actually, the crazy man has a double while the famous tennis player orders coffee.  During the train ride, a plan is hatched for the two men to exchange murders, each doing the other's dirty work.  Things proceed to spin out of control, figuratively and literally.  

There is really a dearth of drinking in this movie, save for the dining car and a cocktail party.  It's as if Hitchcock was on the wagon while going through the list of famous writers to do his screenplay.  Most of those scripts ended up in the trash, but Raymond Chandler’s name stayed on the picture, even though his contributions were said to be largely erased from the pages.  What they would have given for just one bottle of Wite-Out.  The script was adapted from Patricia Highsmith's first novel, and whom better to check with about a talented psychopath with killing on his mind. 

We can pair a wine with Strangers on a Train in much the same way the movie pairs two strangers of different backgrounds.  Save Me, San Francisco Wine Company combines rock star (from the group Train, no less) Pat Monahan and winemaker James Foster.  Their collaborative wines bear names based on songs and albums by Train.  Bulletproof Picasso sounds like a Sauvignon Blanc over which two strangers could form a bond.

Boxcar Bertha was directed by Martin Scorsese in 1972 during producer Roger Corman’s lady gangster phase.  It was Marty's first time directing a Hollywood picture.  He did a pretty good job of it, although Corman promoted it as dripping with sex.  It isn’t, even though Playboy magazine did a spread on it upon its release.  Bertha and her boyfriend rob trains for a living.   The film puts that into perspective with a firm pro-union stance and an exploration of the plight of railroad workers.  It would seem that being robbed between stops would be one of those plights.

Here is a suitable low-budget wine for a low-budget movie - Boxcar Pinot Noir.  Apparently an Australian wine dealer has a few bottles left, at seven bucks a pop.  If you want something a little nicer, try Red Car's Box Car Pinot, from Sonoma County.


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Wednesday, September 15, 2021

DAOU Family Estates - Soul Of A Lion

The Paso Robles wine region is so often overlooked that we could excuse them if they developed a complex about it.  You could call Paso California’s "forgotten" wine region - or is that Temecula?  

Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon, for my money, gives Napa Valley a good deal of competition.  The limestone influence in the Paso dirt plays wonderfully in red wines, as well as white.  And, while Napa may be elegant, Paso has a more rustic approach which I find compelling.

Paso Robles winemaker Daniel Daou is bringing out his new Cab release this month, the 2018 Soul of a Lion, the crown jewel of DAOU Family Estates, named in honor of his father. 

Soul of a Lion puts Paso Robles on the map for world-class Cabernet Sauvignon.  It showcases Daou's vision to produce Bordeaux-style wines that combine elegance, freshness, and power.  The 2018 vintage has all the hallmarks of its cooler growing season, revealing both the power and finesse.

The winery credits DAOU Mountain's "remarkable geology, microclimate, a 2,200-foot elevation and steep slopes" for creating what they call "a jewel of ecological elements."

The 2018 Soul of a Lion was made from 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot, all grown in Paso's Adelaida District.  The wine was aged for 22 months in 100% new French oak.   Alcohol sits at 14.7% abv and the retail price tag is $150 for a 750ml bottle.

This wine is inky in the glass, with no light getting through its rich, purple shade.  The nose is a showcase for black and blue fruit, with a good deal of minerality and some nice floral notes.  A little sweet oak spice comes through as well.  On the palate, the fruit is dominant, but there is an ample sense of spice.  The tannins are quite firm upon the first pour, but they settle down after the bottle has been open for a while.  The finish is long and satisfying.  In a region which produces outstanding Cabernet blends, this is one of the better ones.

 

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Monday, September 13, 2021

A Kosher California Chenin Blanc

The Jewish High Holy Days happen this month, which means you'll need some kosher wines.  You can always turn to Royal Wine Corporation for reliably high-quality kosher wines.  Royal is owned by the Herzog family, whose wine history dates back to the middle of the 19th century.  Royal imports and distributes kosher wines from all over the world, and they make their own at the Herzog winery in Southern California.

Baron Herzog California Chenin Blanc 2020

Philip Herzog was the winemaker nine generations ago, when he crafted his wine for the Austro-Hungarian court.  Emperor Franz-Josef liked the juice so much that he made Phillip a baron, hence the name on the label today.

The previous vintage was sourced from the Clarksburg appellation, but this 2020 has only a California credit, so the grapes may have come from a variety of areas.  Herzog has vineyards in a number of good regions up and down California.  The 2020 Baron Herzog Chenin Blanc has an alcohol level of 11.5% abv and sells in most places for around $10.

This golden, kosher wine has a beautiful nose of flowers, apricots and citrus, with some pineapple thrown in for good measure.  There is a hint of sweet oak spice in there as well.  The palate brings the lemon and lime out front, with a stone fruit aspect as well.  The finish is medium long and maybe a bit too oaky for some, but I think it hits the right spot.  


Friday, September 10, 2021

Blood Of The Vines - Jazzed Up

Pairing‌‌‌ ‌‌‌wine‌‌‌ ‌‌‌with‌‌‌ ‌‌‌movies!‌‌‌  ‌‌‌See‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌hear‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌fascinating‌‌‌ ‌‌‌commentary‌‌‌ ‌‌‌for‌‌‌ ‌‌‌these‌‌‌ ‌‌‌‌‌movies‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌many‌‌‌ ‌‌‌more‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌at‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌From‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Hell.‌‌‌  This week we get three movies we can listen to as well as watch.  We’ll have appropriate wine pairings for these Jazzed Up films.

Round Midnight is the 1986 film about a musician who exiles himself in 1950s Paris, finding new fans and friends in the jazz scene there.  The cast - peppered with real musicians - reads like the marquee at the Blue Note.  The movie features Dexter Gordon, Herbie Hancock, John McLaughlin, Wayne Shorter, Ron Carter, Freddie Hubbard and Cedar Walton, to name more than a few of them.  Gordon plays Dale Turner, a fictional character based on real-life musicians Lester Young and Bud Powell, who were fellow ex-pats of Gordon's back in the day.

The story centers on the musician's abuse of alcohol and drugs and his efforts to escape their clutches.  All the while, the music is the most important thing in his life, more so than his family and friends who were left behind in New York, but running neck-and-neck with booze and a fix.

It's always hard for me to pair a wine with a movie about someone who abuses alcohol, but let's focus on the jazz.  I mean, what else am I going to do, say "I’ll pass on this one?"  Paso Robles winery Vines on the Marycrest has a GSM blend for $42.  It is Syrah-heavy and Grenache-light, so it should really be called an SMG.  Enjoy while watching - and listening - to these masterful jazz giants.  Just know when to stop.

All Night Long was released in the UK in 1962, although it would not hit the states until a year later.  Dave Brubeck and Charles Mingus appear in the film, although British jazzmen Tubby Hayes and John Dankworth are featured more prominently.  The lead actor is Patrick McGoohan, who would go on to be a cult favorite five years later in TV's The Prisoner.  

This movie revolves around the single night of an anniversary party, with plenty of jazz happening.  It was based upon Othello, so there is also plenty of subtext concerning relationships.  

Look to the Sierra Foothills for the wine pairing.  Jazz Cellars is in Calaveras County, California.  They have a tasting room there, but you must bring your own jumping frogs.  Choose a white wine for this B&W movie, a Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc or Marsanne/Roussanne blend should do the trick.

1979's All That Jazz was directed by dancer and choreographer Bob Fosse, who also co-wrote the script as a loosely-based autobiography.  Roy Scheider is nothing short of fantastic in the lead role of a man who is trying to edit a film and stage a musical at the same time.  The work takes its toll, and his hospital bed hallucinations set the tone for other such dream sequences that would follow through the years.  The movie views life as a series of days which start with "It’s showtime, folks!" and end in the morgue.

Pair New Zealand's All That Jazz Rosé with this movie, for the obvious reason.


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Wednesday, September 8, 2021

Rhône Wine Via Israel

The Jewish High Holy Days happen this month, which means you'll need some kosher wines.  You can always turn to Royal Wine Corporation for reliably high-quality kosher wines.  Royal is owned by the Herzog family, whose wine history dates back to the middle of the 19th century.  Royal imports and distributes kosher wines from all over the world, and they make their own at the Herzog winery in Southern California.

The 2018 Razi’el red wine blend comes from Israel's Jerusalem-Haute Judée region.  The winery is located west of the holy city in Ramat Raziel.  The name means "secret of God," but in this case, the secret is out.  It's a wonderful wine.

Razi’el was made from Rhône varieties, 60% Syrah grapes and 40% Carignan, aged for 18 months in French oak barrels.  Alcohol stands at 14% abv and I found it online selling at quite a discount, from $70 down to $50.

The Rhôn-ish nose of this dark wine delivers blackberry aromas draped in savory notes of earth and spice - forest floor, cardamom, allspice, even a bit of roasted meat.  The savory aspect really takes hold on the palate, with a beefy flavor coming through.  The tannins are firm enough, but not too firm.  The finish is long and satisfying.


Monday, September 6, 2021

Fine Wine Gets More Portable Than Ever

A new packaging format is being introduced into the single-serving wine category.  It's new to me, at least.  The containers come from Le Grand Verre and are billed as award-winning, ethically-made single-serve bottles.  

The 6.3-ounce plastic cylinders stand about eight inches tall,  have a diameter of only a little more than an inch and are topped with a screw cap.  You could stuff a lot of those into a picnic basket or backpack.  But it's not just the convenience and quantity that impresses - so does the quality.

Le Grand Verre's entire line consists of French wine from various wine regions, like Bordeaux, Languedoc, and Provence.  The company says they curate the wines every step of the way to your glass, partnering with mostly female-led boutique estates which are organic and sustainable.

The tasting samples provided to me were made up of two reds, two rosés and a white wine.

Le Grand Verre Domaine Caylus Rosé 2020

This pink wine hails from the Pays d'Herault region of southern France, a part of the larger Languedoc-Roussillon region.  LGV partnered with Inès Andrieu of Domaine de Caylus for this organic blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache.  Andrieu took over the property from her grandfather, Henri Andrieu who was in charge since buying the property in 1963.  The Domaine Caylus rosé carries alcohol at 12.5% abv and a price tag of $25 for a 4-pack.

The nose of this pale pink wine is loaded with strawberry and tropical notes.  The mouthfeel is full and the palate is earthy.  Flavors of apple, pineapple and ripe red cherry are a delight.  The acidity is somewhat tame, but the sip is juicy and the finish is very long.

Le Grand Verre Château Val D’Arenc Rosé 2020 

Bandol is generally considered to be the top Provence region for rosé, where the pinks are spicier, more structured and more flavorful than typical rosés thanks to the use of the Mourvédre grape.  This one is a critic's darling, an organic-certified Provencal blend of 80% Mourvèdre, 10% Grenache and 10% Cinsault.

The wine was produced by young, innovative winemaker Gérald Damidot, and under his leadership the estate converted to organic farming practices in 2015, bringing about an enhanced quality of the wine.  Alcohol sits at 13.5% abv and the retail is $30 for a 4-pack.

This wine is a little richer in color than a Provençal rosé, approaching the red side of pink.  The nose brings some watermelon into play with the berries and the citrus notes.  The palate shows a healthy streak of grapefruit through the melon.  Acidity is nice, and the finish is long.  This is a great rosé to pair with seafood or salads, or both.

Le Grand Verre Domaine Nadal Hainaut Red 2019 

Here is a gorgeous wine for the coming cooler weather this fall, but it takes a chill well, too - for those of us still stuck in summer.  This somewhat rustic Cabernet Sauvignon is made with organic grapes from the Domaine Nadal Hainaut estate in the Côtes Catalanes region of the Pays d'Oc IGP, which covers most of the Languedoc-Roussillon area.  The Château was built in 1826 and has belonged to the Nadal family since 1900.  Martine and Jean-Marie are currently turning over the winemaking duties to their three daughters.  This red wine's alcohol level is 13.5% abv and a 4-pack will set you back $25.

The nose and palate are both dominated by black and blue berries.  Anise aromas make an appearance as well.  The tannins are medium firm, while the acidity is quite refreshing.

Le Grand Verre Château Peyredon Red 2019 

This LGV selection comes from the Haut-Médoc Crus Bourgeois.  Laurence Dupuch of Château Peyredon Lagravette works with her husband Stephane Dupuch to produce this wine.  The fruit was picked from vines over 100 years old.  The blend was envisioned by world-famous oenologist Hubert de Bouard - winemaker and owner of Château Angelus, one of the four most prestigious Saint-Émilion estates. 

This classic Bordeaux is 63% Cabernet Sauvignon and 37% Merlot, with grapes that are sustainably farmed.  Alcohol is a restrained 13% abv and an LGV 4-pack of the canisters costs $30.

On the nose are rich blackberry, cedar, vanilla and bacon grease aromas.  The palate shows elegant dark fruit, very firm tannins and a playful acidity.  This is a wine that wants a steak next to it. 

Domaine Prataviera Sauvignon Blanc 2020

The Côtes de Gascogne region occupies France's far southwestern corner and is known primarily for the white wines produced there.  The grapes which are allowed in the region read like a list of grapes you never heard of:  Abouriou, Duras and Portugias bleu among the reds, Len de l'El, Ugni Blanc and both Mansengs - Petit and Gros - among the whites.  Of course, there are also some grapes you have heard of - Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.

The grapes at Domaine Prataviera have been grown under the female hand since 1960 - that's when Elisabeth Prataviera's mom took over from her father.  The Prataviera is 100% Sauvignon Blanc, has alcohol sitting low at 11% abv and sells for $20 in the 4-pack.

This SauvBlanc is lightly tinted and offers up a lovely nose of grapefruit and grass.  The citrus/mineral element outweighs the herbal, so it does not come off like a fully New World wine.  On the palate, the grapefruit really shines, with a full mouthfeel, an apricot note and a pretty good level of acidity.  I don’t drink a lot of Sauvignon Blanc, but when I do, it's usually French, and this wine is a perfect example of why. 

In a Zoom meeting to kick off the product, a couple of LGV bigwigs talked with a collection of wine writers.  Nicolas Deffrennes (LGV Founder) spoke about how he started LGV, with an eye towards presenting fine French wines in a format that made it easy for people to sample.  He also said that part of his innovation was to focus on female-owned and organic, sustainable wines.  He estimated that within the next couple of years, the plastic containers will be made from organic, plant-based plastic.

Deffrennes then threw it to Régis Fanget (Brand and Artistic Director) who talked about the inspiration for the pretty little bottles - cosmetics.  He said they wanted to present the wine in a physical manner that resembled the way perfume is sold.

Pauline Nadal (one of the daughters behind Le Grand Verre Domaine Nadal Hainaut Red 2019, a beautiful wine from Languedoc-Roussillon) spoke about all the animals they have on the property - sheep, swans, bees - and the importance of the animals being happy in the absence of chemicals, and the happiness of the vines themselves.  They don't irrigate the vines - she says her grandfather maintained that watering the vines made them "lazy."  


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Friday, September 3, 2021

Blood Of The Vines - Dysfunction Junction

Pairing‌‌‌ ‌‌‌wine‌‌‌ ‌‌‌with‌‌‌ ‌‌‌movies!‌‌‌  ‌‌‌See‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌hear‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌fascinating‌‌‌ ‌‌‌commentary‌‌‌ ‌‌‌for‌‌‌ ‌‌‌these‌‌‌ ‌‌‌‌‌movies‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌many‌‌‌ ‌‌‌more‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌at‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌From‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Hell.‌‌‌  This week's selections are films which offer different views of dysfunction and the corresponding unction, without compunction.  And, we'll try to find some laughs along the way. 

The 2017 Russian movie, Loveless, actually needed support from four countries, reportedly due to Russia's aggressively dim view of the director's anti-corruption stance.  The story turns on the bitterness between two separated parents.  Their only child disappears, and they are drawn together again as a search for him drags on.

The movie was compared by critics to the work of Ingmar Bergman, although there are no scenes showing death playing chess.  The parents' neglect and lovelessness spills over into every area of their separate lives.  The bleakness of their existence mirrors the bleakness of the society in which they live - if you call that living.  Their story could have been featured in "Bleak Living" magazine, if there were such a thing.

My pairing advice for Loveless might well be to simply crack open a bottle of vodka and drink heartily from it.  That does seem a bit bleak, so let's turn to Sonoma County, where the Russian River brings daily fog upstream to make it a perfect place to grow Pinot Noir grapes.  Inman Family Wines has the perfect antidote to a loveless story - their $68 Pinot called Whole Buncha Love should get you through the movie.  Buy two - you’re gonna need them.

More bleak obsession drives the 1970 British-West German collaboration, Deep End.  It's funny how bleakness seems to appear in movies which required an international effort to produce.  Unfortunately, that's about all that's funny here.  The film's main setting is a bath house where swimming and less innocent things happen.  The main character is a 15-year-old dropout who develops a crush on a woman ten years older with whom he works.  Right, he quickly gets in over his head.

Nelson Hill Winery has a line of Anderson Valley Pinot Noir which they call the Deep End, after the vineyard where the grapes are grown.  They say the wine is more beauty than brawn, which sets it apart from most other California Pinot Noirs.  

Despite his Best Actor Oscar for East of Eden, 1955's Rebel Without a Cause was James Dean's career highlight, although he didn't live to experience it.  The teenage dysfunction in Rebel centered not on inner-city kids, a popular movie theme at that time, but on teens from the suburbs - kids who had all the so-called advantages.  But, dysfunction learns to thrive in between the advantages.

The "Rebel Without a Clue" paraphrasing has been appropriated over and over again through the years.  Tom Petty, Bonnie Tyler, "Quantum Leap" and Garfield have all taken a swing at the line, for better or worse.  Clueless, Dean's character certainly is not.  You don't wear that red windbreaker without realizing you are making a statement.

Let's go to New York's Finger Lakes for the wine pairing.  Red Tail Ridge Winery makes a delightful sparkling wine - Rebel With a Cause - from Teroldego, Lagrein and Blaufränkisch grapes.  They describe it as "slightly restrained and brooding," so it's perfect to drink while watching Dean's performance.


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Wednesday, September 1, 2021

Extremely Tasty Syrah From Israel, Kosher

The Jewish High Holy Days happen in September, which means you'll need some kosher wines.  You can always turn to Royal Wine Corporation for reliably high-quality kosher wines.  Royal is owned by the Herzog family, whose wine history dates back to the middle of the 19th century.  Royal imports and distributes kosher wines from all over the world, and they make their own at the Herzog winery in Southern California.

Nana Estate Cassiopeia 2019

Nana Winery is located in the small Israeli town of Mitzpe Ramon, in the Negev Desert.  Eran Raz - his nickname is Nana - started it in 2004. He was later joined by Niv Ben Yehuda of 3 Corners Winery, who had come to the vineyard looking for grapes which represented the terroir of the desert.  Here, he found them.

The 2019 Cassiopeia was made from 85% Syrah grapes, 12% Petite Sirah and 3% Petit Verdot.  They also make a Chardonnay, a Chenin Blanc and a Cab-heavy red blend.  The Cassiopeia fruit was partially whole-cluster pressed.  The wine aged for 14 months in French oak, most of it new barrels.  Alcohol is 14.5% abv

This wine is inky dark indigo in the glass - no light gets through.  The nose is full of blackberry and cassis aromas and savory notes of leather, tobacco, cedar and a whiff of smoke.  The palate is juicy and fruity with an amazing acidity to go along with some rather firm tannins.  The savory notes stay on the finish the longest.  This will be a great wine to have with a brisket.


Monday, August 30, 2021

Kosher Wine - Italy

The Jewish High Holy Days happen in September, which means you'll need some kosher wines.  Fortunately, Royal Wine Corporation provides what I have found to be high-quality kosher wines.  Royal is owned by the Herzog family, whose wine history dates back to the middle of the 19th century.  Royal imports and distributes kosher wines from all over the world, and the make their own at the Herzog winery in Southern California.

When we think of kosher wine, we may often think of those from Israel, but here is one is from Italy.  Terra di Seta is in Tuscany, near Siena in the Chianti Classico region.  Their winery is on a family-run organic farm, overseen by Daniele Della Seta and his wife, Maria Pellegrini.

The 2016 Pelegríni della Seta Chianti Classico Riserva is made entirely of Sangiovese grapes, harvested from the stony soil of a sunny, windy, low-yield vineyard at an elevation of more than 1,500 feet.  The wine was aged in French oak barrels for 18 months.  Alcohol sits at a lofty 15% abv 

This Sangiovese is a fairly dark wine which smells of cherries, plums and blackberries with a mineral-driven overlay and some sweet oak spice.  The palate has plenty of fruit, too, as well as a savory aspect that lingers on the finish.  The tannins are firm - pair it with meat dishes or sauces and aged cheeses.


Friday, August 27, 2021

Blood Of The Vines - Hands Of Death

Pairing‌‌‌ ‌‌‌wine‌‌‌ ‌‌‌with‌‌‌ ‌‌‌movies!‌‌‌  ‌‌‌See‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌hear‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌fascinating‌‌‌ ‌‌‌commentary‌‌‌ ‌‌‌for‌‌‌ ‌‌‌these‌‌‌ ‌‌‌‌‌movies‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌many‌‌‌ ‌‌‌more‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌at‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌From‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Hell.‌‌‌  For this week’s movies, look no farther than the end of your arm.  Let’s give the TFH gurus a hand for coming up with these choices.

If you ever sat around a campfire with your scouting brothers or sisters, you must have heard the story of that couple from "the next town over," who were haunted by a hand.  "It was still gripping the car door handle!"  Yikes!  What was that sound?  A hand crawling through the leaves?  Save us, camp counselor!  Never underestimate the power of a story about a disembodied hand.

1962's Hand of Death was also known as Five Fingers of Death, which has nothing to do with trimming your nails too close to the quick.  It's a low-budget horror film, which is underscored by the presence of Joe Besser in the cast.  He's the forgotten Stooge, the actor whose big shtick was the inability to pronounce the word "cinnamon."

The story hinges on a scientist who tries to take the killing out of war.  He develops a nerve gas which incapacitates and hypnotizes its victims.  Guess what happens when he is exposed to it.  Yup, monster time.  Let us simply say that the U.S. military did not pursue the invention and went on killing people in the usual ways.

Australia's Two Hands Winery has an entry that might help ward off the bad effects of nerve gas.  Of course, it might not, but it's worth a try.  Their Angel's Share Shiraz comes from the well-known McLaren Vale wine region.

The Beast with Five Fingers goes way back to 1946 for a dose of horror featuring Robert Alda and Peter Lorre.  A concert pianist dies, but his left hand - like the Energizer bunny - keeps on keepin' on.  Not only does it set about strangling folks, it won’t stop playing Für Elise.  No, wait, that was my kid sister who tortured the family by elongating that two-note phrase to intolerable lengths.  This hand has the bad habit of scaring the bejeezus out of everyone in the old mansion.  But, really, what do you expect in an old mansion?

Washington state's Sinister Hand wine is the perfect match for The Beast with Five Fingers.  You'll probably want to turn the label away from you while watching the film.  I don't promote shoplifting, but if ever there was a wine that begged to be taken at a five-finger discount, this is the one.

The Mummy's Hand would appear at first glance to be Universal's 1940 addition to the world of severed appendages.  The hand, however, is fully connected to the mummy, which stumbles around the various sets trying to get more tanna leaves.  Gotta have them tanna leaves.  Three for life, nine for motion, you know the drill.  

The hand of the mummy gets in some exercise along the way by doing the strangling thing.  That's what you get when you bogart the tanna leaves from a mummy.

Door Peninsula Winery - on that bit of Wisconsin which sticks up into Lake Michigan - has a Mummy Moscato, replete with mummy bandage label art.  They claim the wine will have you "walkin' like an Egyptian" before the mummy has a chance to get his hand around your neck.


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Wednesday, August 25, 2021

The Greek Moschofilero Grape

Greek wines are wonderful, especially the whites, which go with seafood like they were made for the job.  In fact, they were.  The Moschofilero grape has come into its own fairly recently.  Abundant in Greece's Peloponnese region, the peninsula at the bottom of the Greek mainland, the grape earned the nickname of "the Chameleon," according to Wine Enthusiast.  It can produce wines of varying styles and expressions.  WE offers this pronouncer for Moschofilero:  mow-sko-FEEL-err-oh.

Gai'a Wines makes a 100% Moschofilero wine they call Monograph.  I had the 2018 vintage at a Beverly Hills restaurant - Avra - which offers a number of Greek wines to pair with the cuisine.  The huge restaurant also offers indoor/outdoor seating, so you have a front row experience as Ferrari after Lamborgni race up and down that one block of Beverly Boulevard.  The Monograph on their list was $17 by the glass, but you can buy the bottle elsewhere at $13 retail.  That's quite a markup, even by Beverly Hills standards.

Importer Winebow gives this pronouncer for Gai'a:  Yay-ya.  The winery has been around since 1994 and is called a pioneer in "the modern Greek wine revolution."  Winebow says the grapes for the Monograph Moschofilero "come from vineyards located in the Arcadian plateaus in the Mantinia region of Peloponnese, at an altitude of 1,500 feet."  In this cool-climate region, "the pink-skinned Moschofilero thrives, developing intense, spicy and floral aromatics and crisp acidity."  They say it pairs well with seafood - it does - as well as Middle Eastern and Asian cuisines.  The wine was vinified and aged in stainless steel tanks and has a reasonable alcohol level of 12% abv.

The nose gives a sense of the seashore, with salinity driving the smell and a light floral note lifting it.  The palate is spicy, with that wonderful salinity and earthy minerals leading the way.  The wine has a nice acidity and a lengthy, earthy finish.  I paired it successfully with a crab cake and grilled octopus.


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Monday, August 23, 2021

L.A.-Area Brewery Plays With Hops

Smog City Brewing Company Of Torrance, CA makes Fire Tornado Hazy IPA, part of the Smog City IPA Series and an addition to their "ever changing line-up of experimental IPAs."

The hops get star billing on the front of the can - Zambia, Citra and Cascade, if you are a hops nerd.  Alcohol sits just above that of a session beer at 6.3% abv.  I paid about $14 for four 16-ounce cans at my local Whole Foods Market.

This beer pours up yellow and hazy in the glass, with a pretty head that sticks around awhile.  The nose shows some delightful tropical notes along with the expected citrus blast.  The palate is full and fresh, and a nutty element joins in with the hops.  Bitterness is kept low, but there is a bit of that in play.  Fire Tornado is probably one of the better efforts I have tasted from Smog City.


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Friday, August 20, 2021

Blood Of The Vines - Kitty Kat Korner

Pairing‌‌‌ ‌‌‌wine‌‌‌ ‌‌‌with‌‌‌ ‌‌‌movies!‌‌‌  ‌‌‌See‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌hear‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌fascinating‌‌‌ ‌‌‌commentary‌‌‌ ‌‌‌for‌‌‌ ‌‌‌these‌‌‌ ‌‌‌‌‌movies‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌many‌‌‌ ‌‌‌more‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌at‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌From‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Hell.‌‌‌  This week, we have a salute to three feline references in the movies.

I belong to an online group of people in my neighborhood, which puts forth a daily email blast of my neighbors' concerns.  Sometimes the information shared is helpful, and sometimes it's just plain ridiculous.  Recently, a message came across the computer screen that someone was selling three cats - or, at least, wanting to sell them.  Seriously, I have never heard of anyone actually getting money for house cats.  It has been my experience that people generally pay money to pawn off cats on someone else who has never had the pleasure of feline ownership.  Writing this paragraph has made me want to watch movies and drink, not necessarily in that order.  Let's see what all the fuss is about, shall we?

The country bumpkin who went to Broadway to see Cats and was disappointed because there "wadn't no cats - jus' people dressed up like cats" - he would probably hate 1964's Kitten With a Whip.  The kitten in question is sex-kitten Ann-Margaret, who knows just how much trouble she can cause for politician John Forsythe.  She is in his house when he returns from a trip.  She invites a couple of young toughs over and they all go to Mexico.  It's the kind of story that leaves one thinking, "how the hell did this happen?  Did he not lock the door when he left?  Were the cops not answering?"  Critics of the day seemed puzzled by the ending - spoiler alert - in which Forsythe is the last one standing.

Sonoma County's Barber Cellars had a Kitten With a Whip rosé just a couple of years ago, but it seems to have made a getaway.  Dammit!  On to beer, I suppose.  Massachusetts brewery Brick and Feather makes a namesake lager for this film, in 16-ounce cans.  It's only 5% alcohol.  Perfect for that road trip to Mexico.

The 1965 Russ Meyer sexploitation film, Faster, Pussycat! Kill! Kill! chronicles three SoCal club dancers who trade in their go-go boots for black leather and a life of crime, kidnapping and murder.  The movie poster reads, "Superwomen! Belted, Buckled and Booted!”" That ought to put some mid-'60s butts in the seats.  Unfortunately, the film didn't make much money or gain much critical praise at the time, although it has now become a cult classic.  

The rock band Faster Pussycat took their name from this film.  As luck would have it, they commissioned a wine in their honor, a blend of Arizona Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon called Body Thief, possibly another name for a kidnapper.

1972's Fritz the Cat introduced sex, drugs and violence into the world of animation.  The X-rated film sent notice that we weren't in Disneyland anymore.  The movie was Ralph Bakshi's first outing as a director.  He used R. Crumb's underground cartoon cat as a bludgeon against the animation institutions of the day.  His response to the many who told him, "You can't do that in a cartoon" was something Fritz might say, but I won’t.

Fritz was made as a cartoon for adults.  The old Looney Tunes and Merry Melodies shorts were made with adults in mind - smart, funny, sarcastic - but always with the idea that they had to be fit for consumption by kids.  By the 1970s, cartoons were stripped of their adult appeal and dumbed down, as if kids weren't fit for anything that was smart, funny and sarcastic.  On the other end of the spectrum was Fritz.  In many households the VHS for Fritz was probably tossed into dad's porn box.

In 1972, you may have prepared for a trip to the movies to see Fritz the Cat by firing up a doobie and downing a bottle of Mateus.  Here, we have the wine.  You're on your own for the rest.  I don't know anything about the winery Fritz de Katz except that it is in Mosel, Germany, where a lot of good Riesling is made.  Cheers! 


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Wednesday, August 18, 2021

Gin Designed To Wear Many Hats

Ford's London Dry Gin has a banner on the label which reads, "It doesn’t take an empire to make a gin."  This is somewhat confusing because Ford's is distilled in England.  However, the freshly-distilled gin is shipped to the U.S. - to Mendocino County, to be precise - to be cut with local well water and bottled at 90 proof.

Ford's website declares the gin to be the product of a collaboration between eighth-generation master distiller Charles Maxwell and gin expert Simon Ford.  It is described as a juniper-forward mix of nine botanicals, "deceptively soft, aromatic, fresh and floral." 

Ford designed his gin to be a versatile "Jack-of-All-Trades" which bartenders could use as a go-to liquor for any cocktails which call for gin, no matter what other ingredients were used.

The nine botanicals of Fords Gin are sourced from Joseph Flach & Sons Ltd. That company has been importing medicinal and culinary botanicals from around the world for London gin houses and tea companies "since the days of the British Empire."

Ford's offers a complex flavor profile, with juniper joined by orange, grapefruit and spices.  It makes a great martini and I would imagine a perfectly fine Negroni, although I have yet to try out that recipe.


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Monday, August 16, 2021

A Wine From The Hitching Post

If you have ever dined at one of the Hitching Post restaurants in Santa Barbara County wine country, you may be familiar with their line of wines.  They are cellared and bottled by Hartley Ostini Vintners in Santa Maria (fisherman Gray Hartley and chef Frank Ostini).  

Their Gen Red 2019 is a Central Coast beauty, made up of 31% Merlot grapes, 31% Valdiguie, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Sangiovese, grown in several Central Coast vineyards.  The grape varieties and the blend seem to change from vintage to vintage.  Alcohol sits at 14.1% abv and the price tag of $17 makes it the least expensive wine in their line.  I got mine at a Los Angeles specialty market.

The wine shows a medium dark ruby color in the glass.  The nose sports blackberry, black cherry, earth, spices and coffee grounds.  On the palate, the full mouthfeel is abetted by a wonderful freshness and firm tannins.  The finish is long.  I used a portion of the bottle to bring another dimension to my red beans.  The wine added such a layer of complexity to the dish - I don't know how people manage to cook without wine.  Even if it never makes it into the food.


Friday, August 13, 2021

Blood Of The Vines - Coppolacalypse

Pairing‌‌‌ ‌‌‌wine‌‌‌ ‌‌‌with‌‌‌ ‌‌‌movies!‌‌‌  ‌‌‌See‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌hear‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌fascinating‌‌‌ ‌‌‌commentary‌‌‌ ‌‌‌for‌‌‌ ‌‌‌these‌‌‌ ‌‌‌‌‌movies‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌many‌‌‌ ‌‌‌more‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌at‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌From‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Hell.‌‌‌  This week, a trio of films directed by the great Francis Ford Coppola.  The wine pairings are easy choices this time around, since Coppola also has a winery.  The director and vintner sold his Francis Ford Coppola winery recently but retained Inglenook, where he has a home.

Coppola wrote and directed the 1966 film, You're a Big Boy Now.  The story concerns a young man who, according to the movie poster, "wants no part of sex - he wants it all."  The boy in question - Big Boy - seems to do reasonably well with the ladies, but is not exactly a Cassanova and is certainly no Lothario.  He is just finding his way in the world of adult relationships.

It is fun to note that Big Boy was made as Coppola's thesis at UCLA film school.  How can you not love a movie with character names like Barbara Darling and Miss Thing?  The presence of Rip Torn and Geraldine Page are bonuses.  

Coppola's wines generally are made from grapes out of Napa or Sonoma, but here's one with SoCal roots.  The Francis Coppola Reserve Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay has the hallmark earthiness of Santa Barbara County's Santa Maria Valley, at a pretty decent price of just over $40.

1979's Apocalypse Now is generally considered to be Coppola's masterpiece, a film which resides in just about any cinematic "Best Of" list you can find.  Besides giving us a dark and soul-searching vision of the Vietnam War, it also injected several phrases into the popular lexicon.  Who among us hasn't paraphrased, "I love the smell of napalm in the morning," "the horror, the horror" or "never get out of the boat"?  (At least not until the boat has come to a full and complete stop.)

A movie about the movie calls the many production problems encountered by Coppola "A Filmmaker's Apocalypse."  Weather delays, temperamental actors and budget overruns look like small potatoes when set next to emotional breakdowns and a serious heart attack.  Just remember - if you don't get off the boat, you don't have a movie.

While we can't say that Coppola's Diamond Collection Malbec will smell like victory, it may well take you to your virtual heart of darkness.  As one of my favorite bartenders used to scream every time I walked through the door, "Schlagers!"

If you ever find yourself playing a "seven degrees of Coppola" game, this one might come in handy.  Dementia 13 was written and directed by Coppola in 1963 - and produced by Roger Corman.  The producer was looking to stamp out a cheap copy of Psycho with castles, and gave Coppola a shot at the director's chair after having worked with him on another film.  The two men found themselves in disagreement - didn't see that coming - and Corman eventually hired another director to shoot more footage.

The black-and-white horror film still stands as vintage Corman - if not vintage Coppola - and it features an axe murder, a decapitation, a drowning and the underwater disposal of a heart attack victim.  Scary stuff with a low-budget flair.

Coppola's Director's Cut Zinfandel brings the spice and everything nice to counter the snips and snails of Dementia 13.  


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Wednesday, August 11, 2021

Citrus And Piney IPA

San Diego County's The Hop Concept puts the sensation of their brews right on the label, right in the name.  Their beers all utilize hops in inventive ways to offer a variety of tastes and aromas.  Names like "Dank and Sticky" and "Tropical and Juicy" advertise themselves truthfully in their names.

I had their "Citrus and Piney" IPA.  They describe it on the can as boasting "bold orange peel and honey aromas" followed by a "faint hint of bready malt."  Alcohol is 8.5% abv and a four-pack of 16-ounce cans ran me about $15 at my neighborhood specialty market.

The hops are right out front, as they should be with an IPA.  Six varieties of hops were used in this brew: Amarillo, Centennial, Chinook, Citra, CTZ and Simcoe.


Friday, August 6, 2021

Blood Of The Vines - Animaniacs

Pairing‌‌‌ ‌‌‌wine‌‌‌ ‌‌‌with‌‌‌ ‌‌‌movies!‌‌‌  ‌‌‌See‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌hear‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌fascinating‌‌‌ ‌‌‌commentary‌‌‌ ‌‌‌for‌‌‌ ‌‌‌these‌‌‌ ‌‌‌‌‌movies‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌many‌‌‌ ‌‌‌more‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌at‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌From‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Hell.‌‌‌  This week, we may rely heavily on "critter labels" for our wine pairings, as the three movies all deal with animals.

Looney Tunes Back in Action is a 2003 film directed by TFH chief guru Joe Dante.  He refers to the making of the film as the longest year and a half of his life.  Those who didn't grow up with Bugs Bunny and Daffy Duck may feel it was the longest hour and a half of theirs, since they will likely miss the charm found by the critics of the day, who applauded the movie.  I mean, how can even the most hard-hearted critic pan Bugs Bunny?

A host of characters from the old Warner Bros cartoons get "rebranded" in the framework of a silly spy story.  Not that anyone asked me, but I feel rebranding is generally not a good idea for things which already have a brand.  Bugs and Daffy are the animated leads, of course, but it is somehow most satisfying to see Yosemite Sam as a Vegas casino owner.  Marvin the Martian is a natural for the scenes set at Area 51.

Let's use Marvin as our wine pairing linchpin.  Martian Ranch and Vineyard has a Mourvedre-based wine they call Retrograde Reserve.  It's a $50 exploration into a grape that may be too heavy for cartoon characters, but feels just right for a rebranding effort.

1973's Heavy Traffic is Ralph Bakshi's big success, following his interpretation of R. Crumb's Fritz the Cat.  The mix of live action and animation loses the talking animals in favor of humans.  The tone is similar in nature to the freewheeling - and dirty - Fritz.  

Napa Valley's Highway 29 is known as much for its heavy traffic as it is for the tasty wines being made near its jammed lanes.  Trefethen Family Vineyards is a great stop whether you are north or southbound.  Their Dragon's Tooth is hailed by professional drinkers as an exceptional $65 wine.  And, hey, a dragon is an animal, right?

Dirty Duck is a 1974 adult cartoon, which means you can expect the worst and never be disappointed.  Crudeness finds a new level in Dirty Duck, which has nothing to do, by the way, with the comic strip character of the same name.  How was there not a lawsuit born out of that?  

The film boasts that the duck in question is "madder than Daffy... dumber than Donald… more existential than Howard."  Besides, he gives Fritz the Cat a run for his money on gratuitous sexual perversion.  If you ever felt that you didn't get quite enough inane, immature sexual one-liners in high school, this is the film for you.  On a brighter note, Dirty Duck features the voices of Mark Volman and Howard Kaylan, founding members of The Turtles, sometimes remembered as Flo & Eddie.  

Lithuanian microbrewer Biržų Alus has a spiced, herbed ale that sounds almost as unappealing as the movie.  Or, there is a cocktail called Duck Fart - if you must.  Layer in some Bailey's, Kahlua and Crown Royal in a shot glass and let'er rip.


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Wednesday, August 4, 2021

Three Great Proseccos

The Italian sparkling wine known as Prosecco dates back to the 14th century, as made in the town of Prosecco in the district of Trieste.  The Prosecco DOC was not established until 2009.  Rosé was not permitted until 2020.

I had the pleasure of attending a virtual event during National Prosecco Week, hosted by Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen, also known as the World Wine Guys.  While presenting an overview of Prosecco's history, the pair identified what it is that attracts so many people to the bubbly wine: "Prosecco is fun."

There was much more to the event, but that's the takeaway, in a nutshell.  They also mentioned that real Prosecco is identified by the blue seal on the neck of the bottle, and urged consumers to accept no substitutes.

Those of us tasting along with the World Wine Guys sampled six outstanding Proseccos, three brut styles and three rosés.  We covered the pink ones in the previous article, now the non-rosé bottles.

The La Marca Prosecco DOC is made entirely from the expressive Glera grape, grown in the hillside vineyards of Italy's Prosecco capital of Treviso.  The wine records an alcohol level of 11% abv and retails for $16.

This Italian bubbly produces a thick, festive foam.  The nose brings a floral element to match up with lemon, lime and grapefruit aromas.  On the palate, a nice apple flavor meets the citrus.  It is a sweet taste and the finish follows the same way.  Fun and frolicking Prosecco.

The Villa Sandi Il Fresco Prosecco DOC Brut is also from Treviso, about a hundred communities in northeastern Italy which all come together to make this festive style of wine.  The winery asserts that the soil is influenced by the Piave River.  It contains a lot of pebbles, stones, sand and some clay.  This non-vintage wine is made from 85% Glera grapes while the remainder is a mix of Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc.  It holds the typical alcohol level of 11% abv and a retail price around $15.

This Prosecco gives a nice froth which dissipates quickly.  The pale gold-green wine gives aromas of apples and apricots, laced with citrus minerals.  The palate shows an earthy display of green apples and a slight cherry flavor.  It drinks a bit more seriously than Prosecco has a reputation for.  It's fun, to be sure, but its complexity brings the wine to another level.

The Valdo Marca Oro Prosecco DOC Brut is all Glera grapes from Valdobbiadene, crafted by winemaker Gianfranco Zanon.  The wine spent three months in Charmat aging and another month in the bottle.  Alcohol is 11% abv and it generally sells for $14.

This Prosecco carries a light yellow tint and aromas of apples, pears and peaches - dressed up in citrus minerality.  The bubbles disappear completely inside of a minute.  On the palate, a racy acidity will be quite noticeable if you have bitten your tongue lately.  The red apple flavor joins the stone fruit and cherry in a very pleasant combination.  The finish is medium lengthy and fully enjoyable, as it brings back that minerality. 


Monday, August 2, 2021

Three Prosecco Rosé Wines

The Italian sparkling wine known as Prosecco dates back to the 14th century, as made in the town of Prosecco in the district of Trieste.  The Prosecco DOC was not established until 2009.  Rosé was not permitted until 2020.

I had the pleasure of attending a virtual event during National Prosecco Week, hosted by Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen, also known as the World Wine Guys.  While presenting an overview of Prosecco's history, the pair identified what it is that attracts so many people to the bubbly wine: "Prosecco is fun."

There was much more to the event, but that's the takeaway, in a nutshell.  They also mentioned that real Prosecco is identified by the blue seal on the neck of the bottle, and urged consumers to accept no substitutes.

Those of us tasting along with the World Wine Guys sampled six outstanding Proseccos, three brut styles and three rosés.  First, the pink.

The Mionetto Prosecco DOC Rosé Millesimato is produced under the umbrella of Freixenet.  This one was made using grapes from the 2020 vintage, 90% Glera and 10% Pinot Nero fruit.  Those grapes were soft-pressed and left on the skins for just a few days.  The bubbles come from the Charmat method of secondary fermentation, in a pressurized tank.  Alcohol is quite light, at just 11% abv.

This Prosecco is a rich salmon pink in the glass, tending toward orange.  The nose is full of bright red fruit - cherries, dried apricots and lemons.  The froth dissipates rather quickly, and the palate is as cheerful as Prosecco is expected to be.  Berries, citrus and a touch of honey make merry on the taste buds in this bone-dry bubbly.  The citrus lasts longest on the finish.  

The Torresella Prosecco DOC Rosé is another extra dry pink Prosecco under an umbrella, this time that of Santa Margherita.  The Torresella Winery website offers that the winery is located "Italy's eastern Veneto region, an area of gentle hills and broad plains along the Adriatic Sea, about midway between Venice and Trieste."

This wine is made entirely from Glera grapes which were grown in Treviso and Venezia.  The wine was made sparkling through the Charmat method, which has the secondary fermentation take place in a tank, under pressure.  Alcohol sits at 11.5% abv.

This light pink sparkling wine has a nice froth in the glass, which dissipates quickly.  Aromas of strawberry, cherry and a touch of toast lie on the nose, while the palate brings some citrus and stone fruit to the party.  The finish is medium length and carries with it a bit of earthiness.

The Masottina Conegliano Prosecco DOC Rosé Brut is produced by the third generation of the Dal Bianco family.  The wine is 100% Glera grapes, grown in the hills of the Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore.  Winemaker Adriano Dal Bianco carries his family's tradition well.  The wine has alcohol at 11.5% abv and it retails for $24.

This pink Prosecco smells like red ripe cherries, with more of the same on the palate.  Flavors of citrus join in, lime and grapefruit mainly.  The bubbles are generous, but fade quickly.  They are fun while they last, though.