Monday, May 26, 2025

Gerard Bertrand In Los Angeles

A two-part event happened in April at a fancy hotel on the Sunset Strip in Los Angeles. The featured star of the afternoon was Gerard Bertrand, pitured at left. He not only brought his personable self to to the Golden State, he also brought his wines.

Part One was a walk-around exploration of some of his lower-priced bottles. These everyday wines, although priced in the $20-$30 range, are every bit as elegant as his top-shelf stuff. Those top-shelf wines were featured in Part Two, which was a seated tasting with Bertrand leading the audience through the menu.

New Wave, the first part, gave the crowd a sample of Bertrand's newer creations, heavy on the trendier items like rosés, orange wines and lighter reds. These wines were all fine examples of how younger wine drinkers can experience wines with a premium feel without dipping into next month's rent.

The Garrigue line is named for Mediterranean shrubs and aromatic herbs which grow alongside the vineyards in Bertrand's Languedoc region. This red, the darkest of the reds sampled, contains Grenache Noir, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. The wine is full of ripe red fruit, wonderful spices, and earth. The firm tannins are joined by a fresh acidity. $20.

La Grande Bleue brings to mind the water bordering the south of France. This white wine has a floral salinity and is light, fresh, and breezy. The grapes are Vermentino (Rolle), Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon. $20.

Orange Gold was my favorite of the walk-around tour. The nose is complex and sweet, with notes of flowers and dried apricots. The palate makes a 180, turning in savory apricot, lemon acidity and salinity. Chardonnay, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Gewürztraminer, and Muscat are the varieties in play. $25.

So'Vive contains Sauvignon, so we expect a bit of grassiness. The Muscat Petits Grains brings a sweet edge to the wine, with low acidity and big minerals. $18

Le Chouchou is a light red wine which finds Bertrand collaborating with his daughter, Emma. This Syrah, Grenache, and Cinsault blend has alcohol at a modest 11%. The color is light, the nose is full of earthy red fruit and the tannins are soft. It's a wine that is very easy to drink. $22.

Trouble comes in three styles: red, pink, and white. It is a slightly fizzy wine, with vibrant fruit, nice acidity, and a bit of earthiness. $25.

Gris Blanc is Grenache rosé, heavy on the minerals with a medium acidity. Rouge Clair, also Grenache, has a bit more color but is still lightly tinted. $17.

French Cancan is a sparkling wine, a Brut Nature Orange, full of red fruit, minerals and toast. $25-$30. 

Part Two of the event covered the essence of Bertrand's new book, Multidimensional Wine. Here, we were treated to Bertrand's philosophy of winemaking. He endeavors to separate everyday wines from those that have a message, and the message is terroir.

Despite Bertrand's wine heritage, he said that he was inspired at the young age of 23 by none other than Robert Mondavi. He has taken that inspiration into a new world of wine, in which he says "organic and biodynamic vineyard practices deliver the footprint of the vintage." Probably the most salient nugget he offered was that "In this crazy world now, we need more wine." I couldn't agree more.

Castellum Sauvignon Blanc 2022 - This wine was Bertrand's example of a quest for excellence. The pretty yellow tint is inviting enough, but this is a very different Sauvignon Blanc. There is no typical "Sauvignon" smell and the palate is savory, yet brimming with yellow fruit. An eye-opener at $35. 

Domaine de l'Aigle Chardonnay 2022 - Bertrand offered this wine to illustrate how changing harvest dates, vinification and maturation, just a little, can make a big difference. This tastes like no other Chardonnay I have ever had. A very savory nose leads to an extremely earthy Chardonnay, a departure from what is expected from the variety. $35.

Château l'Hospitalet Grand Vin Rouge 2021 - This delicious red wine displays the notion that poor soil depends on August rain. The fruit is chalked up by the limestone dirt of La Clape, and the resulting minerality, acidity, and fine tannins are a delight. $50.

Cigalus Rouge 2021 - Bertrand cites that in conventional agriculture, there are 1000 ways micro-organisms affect grapes, 1500 in grapes grown organically. Soils cultivated biodynamically are affected 47,000 different ways. Here's to biodynamic farming. This wine is all about the savory. $56. 

Clos du Temple 2022 - This light, yellow gold rosé has savory strawberry notes and a savory streak that makes it a great pair with caviar. French, caviar, of course. It is all about the sense of place. $195.

Clos d'Ora 2017 - Blending is what Bertrand calls "the pinnacle, the ultimate act" of winemaking. He calls Clos d'Ora a sanctuary, where four great grapes grow in the merging area of mineral, vegetable and animal. If you're blending, do it with the best grapes. $250.

Villa Soleilla 2020 - Who wants to take on an 8000 year-old winemaking tradition started by the ancient Georgians? Gerard Bertrand, that's who. This brilliant orange wine smells of honeyed apricot and has a slightly bitter taste, but it is opulent. We paired it with three different cheeses. The cheeses were jealous of the wine. $195.

I should make it clear that Bertrand's wines from the south of France have long been favorites of mine, and this event only served to bolster that feeling. If you are interested, buy his book. If you buy his wines, he'll be happy with that, too. 


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Friday, May 23, 2025

Blood Of The Vines - You Otto Be In Pictures

Pairing wine with movies!  See the trailers and hear the fascinating commentary for these movies and many more at Trailers From Hell. This week, we have three films directed by Otto Preminger, with a wine pairing for each.

1958's Bonjour Tristesse translates as "Hello, sadness," an odd title for a film set during summertime in the French Riviera. Good acting from Jean Seberg, Deborah Kerr and David Niven meets quality directing from the big O.

The title's dolor is juxtaposed against the summery south of France. Black clothes and heavy eye shadow might have been a nice touch, although leaning a bit heavily into Goth. There may be sadness, but it is summertime, after all. I mean, we haven't yet put away the white slacks and sundresses for the season. Could someone open another bottle of rosé I could cry into?

The setting screams for a rosé from Provence. Chateau de Peyrassol Côtes de Provence Rosé - They've been harvesting grapes in this section of Provence since 1256. That's the year, not the time of day. This antidote to sadness will set you back a paltry $24.

A hundred lawyers at the bottom of the ocean is said to be the definition of "a good start." Not that I have anything against lawyers. It's always good to have one on your side, especially if a different one is coming for you.

1959's Anatomy of a Murder finds Mr. Preminger at the helm of a courtroom drama which required him to go to court. Chicago Mayor Richard Daley banned the film for language he considered to be obscene. Otto sued, and hizzoner's censorship was overturned. The film gets a high rating from the American Bar Association as one of the best courtroom dramas ever made. Well, if my lawyer likes it, it must be good.

The story was "ripped from the headlines," based on a real-life murder trial in Michigan's Upper Peninsula, where the movie was shot. A local lawyer beats a murder charge against his client with a twist on the insanity plea, but there are plenty more twists as the trial unfolds. Check out Duke Ellington's role in the movie, no doubt taking a break from his work in creating the score for the film. 

We need a killer wine for Anatomy. Come and gitcha red hots, right here. Napa Valley's Clif Family Winery has Kit's Killer Cab. It's actually Cabernet and Petite Sirah, so more's the better. It's an $85 wine from the people who bring you those Clif Bars you'll find if you scrounge around in your backpack. 

The Man with the Golden Arm gave us Frank Sinatra as a 1955 drug addict. It always seems unusual, that Sinatra later became so careful of his image, and here he is shooting up. To his credit, the character is trying to go straight. Upon his release from prison, he tries to get a job as a drummer. Oh, that should help him stay on the straight and narrow path. Hanging around with musicians is not one of the twelve steps.

Just when you think things might work out, here comes his old dealer. Aaaah, crap. Fix me. The company one keeps is the most important thing about changing those bad habits. Keep that in mind when you try to kick that morphine addiction.

L'Arge d'Or Wines of California's Central Coast combines the notion of a golden age with that of a big door. You can work on that while I drink up their Steakhouse Smoothy #1, a $45 blend of Mourvedre, Syrah, and Grenache. 


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Wednesday, May 21, 2025

A Is For Albariño, V Is For Virginia

While writing about wine over the past 16 years, I have been fortunate to taste wine from around the world, and from nearly all 50 US states. Mississippi, Oklahoma, Utah, and Wyoming are the only four missing from my American wine itinerary, and I would love to hear from any winemakers in those states.

One of my favorite wine states is Virginia. There is such a wide spread of varieties being grown there. I’ve sampled Virginia grapes that represent Bordeaux, Burgundy, the Loire, the Rhône, Spain, and Italy. Not to forget, of course, the all-American Norton grape. The good grapes in Virginia are abetted by good winemaking practices, as well.

I was blessed with samples of the winners from the 2025 Governor's Cup event, which started in 1982. A Zoom call featured the makers of the 12 wines which made this year’s Governor's case, the top dozen bottles from the event. Wine writer Frank Morgan heads up the judging for the event, and he hosted the online round-robin with the winemakers. Morgan really kept the program moving and running on time, a hard feat to accomplish in these online events. He also elicited great commentary from the panelists.

The 2023 Potomac Point Albariño earned a gold medal and a place in the Governor's Case of the top 12 Virginia wines, out of more than 620 entries. Owner Skip Causey and winemaker Jordan Cleary were on the Zoom call. Cleary spoke of his blend, which includes a 5% splash of Viognier in the Albariño. Cleary said he did that "for added depth and length" in the wine. The fruit was sourced from Horton Vineyards in Virginia's Monticello AVA. 

The wine was fermented in stainless steel, rested on its lees for four months, has alcohol at 13% abv, and costs $35.

This wine is a greenish yellow color, very clear. The nose offers sweet floral notes and a great helping of citrus minerality. The palate shows lemon and lime bathed in a nice salinity. The acidity is quite fresh. It finishes long and savory. Pair this one with roasted chicken, eggplant, or a Caprese sandwich. It will go plenty well with tapas, too. 


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Monday, May 19, 2025

Virginia's Top Vermentino

In writing about wine over the past 16 years, I have been fortunate to taste wine from around the world, and from nearly all 50 US states. Mississippi, Oklahoma, Utah, and Wyoming are the only four missing from my American wine itinerary, and I would love to hear from any winemakers in those states.

One of my favorite wine states is Virginia. There is such a wide spread of varieties being grown there. I've sampled Virginia grapes that represent Bordeaux, Burgundy, the Loire, the Rhône, Spain, and Italy. Not to forget, of course, the all-American Norton grape. The good grapes in Virginia are abetted by good winemaking practices, as well.

I was blessed with samples of the winners from the 2025 Governor’s Cup event, which started in 1982. A Zoom call featured the makers of the 12 white wines which made this year's Governor's case, the top dozen bottles from the event. Wine writer Frank Morgan heads up the judging for the event, and he hosted the online round-robin with the winemakers. Morgan really kept the program moving and running on time, a hard feat to accomplish in these online events. He also elicited great commentary from the panelists.

The 2023 Barboursville Vineyards Vermentino was the top scoring wine from the Governor's Cup. Luca Paschina, the Estate Director and Winemaker at Barboursville Vineyards, says that he introduced Vermentino to the vineyard because it thrives in warmer climates. He also notes that when people get the chance to try it, they generally love it. The lovely aromatics, easy mouthfeel, and salty finish provide a big attraction for wine lovers. 

This wine looks yellow-gold with a greenish tint to it. The nose is quite aromatic, displaying a floral note along with massive citrus minerality. The palate has lemon, lime and grapefruit flavors joined by a wonderful salinity. The acidity is very fresh, but the mouthfeel has, overall, a rather soft touch. It’s great to find a Vermentino of this quality that's made in America. Virginia is for Vermentino lovers, I suppose. 


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Friday, May 16, 2025

Blood Of The Vines - Coming Of Age

Pairing wine with movies!  See the trailers and hear the fascinating commentary for these movies and many more at Trailers From Hell. This week, we have three films about growing up, and a wine pairing for each.

From 2000 comes Our Song, written and directed by Jim McKay. He's not the Wide World of Sports Jim McKay, he's the film director Jim McKay. This movie may have fallen through the cracks for you, but it's worth a search. It garnered many accolades for its realistic depiction of what it's like to be a teenage girl in the Crown Heights neighborhood of Brooklyn. As it turns out, it's a lot like being a teenage girl anywhere in America.

McKay was told by everyone he talked to, that following up his previous young girl film with another one was career suicide. It wasn't. He has worked a lot since then, largely in television.

The perfect pairing for Our Song has to be a wine from the McBride Sisters Wine Company. They were the first black sisters to start a wine business. Their mantra has this film written all over it: "Go where you don't belong. Someday you will." They have a rosé, a Riesling and a red blend for $15 each. Their California sparkler is $25. 

1959's Blue Denim comes from a time in America when parents worried that their kids were sneaking into a pair of jeans on the way to school. Or worse, letting someone sneak into theirs on the way home. Blue denim trousers were the mark of troubled youth back then, only exceeded by black slacks and a ducktail. Heathens. 

Nothing says "coming of age" quite like an unplanned teenage pregnancy. Adults are made, not born. Throw in some talk of abortion and you have a genuine late-'50s potboiler. 

Denim by Beaubois is a good pairing here. From the Costieres de Nimes region of the Southern Rhône Valley, where the denim fabric was born, so they say. And who am I to argue? This Syrah/Grenache/Mourvèdre blend comes complete with a blue denim label for about $25. You can't get a good pair of jeans for that price. 

Bleak obsession drives the 1970 British-West German collaboration, Deep End. It's funny how bleakness seems to have popped up more in movies which required an international effort to produce. Unfortunately, that's about all that's funny here. The film's main setting is a bath house where swimming and less innocent things happen. The main character is a 15-year-old dropout who develops a crush on an older woman with whom he works. Right, he quickly gets in over his head.

Nelson Hill Winery has a line of Anderson Valley Pinot Noir which they call the Deep End, after the vineyard where the grapes are grown.  They say the wine is more beauty than brawn, which sets it apart from most other California Pinot Noirs. It sells for about $45.


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Wednesday, May 14, 2025

More Grenache In This GSM, But Just Barely

We are looking today at another bargain wine from Trader Joe's, where shoppers can find plenty of really decent wines at a low cost. The 2023 Ténèbres GSM comes from the Pays d'Oc IGP, which covers a good part of the Languedoc-Roussillon region in the southeast part of France. 

The three grape varieties of a GSM are split fairly evenly: 34% Grenache, 33% Syrah, and 33% Mourvèdre. The low cost I mentioned is just $6 and the alcohol content is 13.5% abv. 

This wine is very dark in the glass. The nose is quite aromatic, with aromas of blackberry, plum, cinnamon, and vanilla coming through. It is the oak spice which dominates the bouquet, however. The palate displays plenty of oak, too, but with jammy, dark, fruit notes to help distract us from the aging process. Tannins are firm enough to pair with whatever beef you like. 


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Monday, May 12, 2025

South African White Blend At A Bargain Price

Mbali is the Zulu word for flower, and the label shows the King Protea, South Africa's national flower. Also, the country's national cricket team is called the Proteas.

The blend of white grapes consist of 79% Chenin Blanc and 21% Viognier, taken from South Africa's Western Cape region. The alcohol content is 13.5% abv and I bought it for $6 at Trader Joe's.

This wine is straw colored in the glass, and it pours up a bit frizzante. It smells wonderful, with notes of honeysuckle leading the way, followed by lemon, lime, and apple aromas. The palate shows delightful stone fruit, tropical fruit, and a hint of citrus. The acidity is not as fresh as I would like, but it serves the purpose of livening up the sip and affording easy pairings with a salad, a baked potato, or a Caprese sandwich. It is not a terribly complex wine, but for six bucks it will certainly do. 


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Friday, May 9, 2025

Blood Of The Vines - Rock And Roll Is Here To Stay

Pairing‌‌‌ ‌‌‌wine‌‌‌ ‌‌‌with‌‌‌ ‌‌‌movies!‌‌‌  ‌‌‌See‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌hear‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌fascinating‌‌‌ ‌‌‌commentary‌‌‌ ‌‌‌for‌‌‌ ‌‌‌these‌‌‌ ‌‌‌‌‌movies‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌many‌‌‌ ‌‌‌more‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌at‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌From‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Hell.‌‌‌  This week, we have wine pairings for three movies featuring rock. And roll.

Elvis: That's the Way It Is tells the musical story of Elvis Presley's 1970 concert in Las Vegas. Besides the show at the International Hotel, the off-Strip locale now called Westgate, there is also footage from an Arizona performance and some rehearsal scenes from a Los Angeles soundstage included. If you're a fan of Elvis the singer, and not Elvis the actor, you will find a treasure trove of tunes to make you happy. From "Mystery Train" to "Suspicious Minds," the hit list is lengthy. I count 19 songs, some of which were hits for The Big E, while others are cover versions.

As a kid, I wondered how it was that Elvis got so bad so fast. The local radio station I listened to as a kid featured Golden Weekends that were packed with his brilliant '50s rockers, but also jammed with what I heard as the lousy stuff, post-1960. It's all in That's the Way It Is, performed by an Elvis who was making his big return to the concert stage after years of playing dumb roles in tedious movies. I'll drink to that.

Let's get some Elvis wine. Not because it's so great, which it may be, but because it's Elvis wine. The Elvis Presley Collection is sold under the Wines That Rock umbrella, and it features the incredibly named Belt Buckle, The King, Blue Christmas Pinot Grigio, and Blue Hawaii White Blend, which is actually blue. A friend of mine once advised me to "never eat blue food." In this case, I'll make an exception. Each of the wines cost less than $20. 

In 1959, Go Johnny Go hit the silver screens. The film stars famous disc jockey Alan Freed as a talent scout. The release date was a scant five months before Freed became infamous for losing his gig in the big payola scandal. Like many rock careers, Freed's was short and sweet. The one-sheet bills him as "The King of Rock 'n' Roll," which was a reach, even before the pay-to-play scandal. Let's give him credit for coining the phrase of the genre, but making him the king of rock 'n' roll? Everybody knows that's Jimmy Clanton, right?

Jimmy C is in this movie, as are Chuck Berry, Richie Valens, and Eddie Cochran. The latter two stars both died within a year of the film's release. Jazz pianist Dave Brubeck appears, tickling the ivories on a Chuck Berry tune.

It seems a little harsh to pair an alcoholic beverage with a movie that starred a guy who died at age 43 from cirrhosis of the liver. But here we go. I heard a radio commercial from Freed's show that had Nat King Cole shilling for Italian Swiss Colony California Pale Sherry. Unfortunately, that's no longer an option. 

Even though DJ no longer means what it meant when Freed was a DJ, you can get DJ Daddy Kool's Strawberry Moscato for the sweet price of just $8.99. From Moldova, the wine is actually made from Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains grapes, not strawberries. BTW, there actually is a performer named DJ Kool. Anyone who recorded a song entitled "Let Me Clear My Throat" has to be worth a listen.

The artist we all know as Prince starred in and scored Purple Rain in 1984. It's a romance at heart, but it deals with dark subthemes while showing off the musical talent of its star. This film, with its charismatic frontman, huge hit soundtrack, and four top ten hits, pushed Prince into a limelight he hadn't known before. 

Some critics bashed Purple Rain for its misogyny, and one even called for it to be pulled from the National Film Registry. Others heaped so much praise on it that those who hadn't yet gone to the theater to see it had to wonder what they were missing. They were missing a lot.

Purple Wines of Ohio offers some sweet-leaning bottles, none of which appear to be purple. They are cheap, however. But, how about an actual wine for Prince? Prince Vineyards has several lines of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons that sell for around $100 a bottle. Sip on that while you watch a superstar in the making. 


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Wednesday, May 7, 2025

A Pair For Springtime, From Argentina

From Bodega Santa Julia of Mendoza, Argentina, comes a line of wines known as Del Mercado. There is a flagship Malbec which is joined by the Torrontés del Mercado and the Rosé del Mercado.

The 2023 Rosé del Mercado was made from Malbec grapes grown in the Lujan de Cuyo region of the Uco Valley, as were the grapes for the 2022 Torrontés del Mercado. Both wines were made with organic grapes, both clock in at 13.5% abv, both were on sale for $12 at Whole Foods Market, and both come in a big one liter bottle.

The Torrontés appears pale yellow in the glass. The nose has a floral note first, then some citrus minerality, and then a light lanolin salinity. It reminds me a bit of the seashore. The palate carries a brisk acidity and has lemon and stone fruit flavors. The pairing possibilities can reach beyond the salad range and go with risotto, shellfish, and roasted chicken. 

The rosé seems to have more in common with a white wine than a red. The copper color is beautiful. Its nose displays cherry, but with a strong backbeat of citrus minerality. The palate expresses cherry and strawberry, while also bringing a lemony note to the table. The acidity is fabulous, really nice. I paired mine with lemongrass chicken and was delighted. 


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Monday, May 5, 2025

A French Wine For Less Than $10

Imagine my surprise when I stumbled across a selection of Esprit Cépage wines at my local Whole Foods Market, selling for less than $10. The 2023 Esprit Cépage Blanc is the one I picked up. I’ll probably try the Rouge soon. It's only a dollar more.

The Blanc is made from organic grapes, which are not identified by variety on the label. It is labeled as a Vin de France, the designation which replaced Vin de Table in 2010. There is no specific appellation other than it comes from France as an ordinary, everyday wine. It's a lot like the "California" appellation on a California wine. Sure it's from California, but where? The alcoholic content is 13.5% abv and I paid only $8.

This wine, I believe, is a Grenache Blanc. Some of the info I found online suggested that, and my taste buds agree. If there is a little Sauvignon Blanc in there, I would not be surprised. However, the yellow tint in the glass suggests GB. The nose brings citrus aromas along with apple notes. The palate is rather racy in the acidity department, and the finish leaves stone fruit, lemons, and limes lingering. It's an enjoyable wine and a likely pair with some sort of seafood or salad.


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Friday, May 2, 2025

Blood Of The Vines - Coburn Is King

Pairing‌‌‌ ‌‌‌wine‌‌‌ ‌‌‌with‌‌‌ ‌‌‌movies!‌‌‌  ‌‌‌See‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌hear‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌fascinating‌‌‌ ‌‌‌commentary‌‌‌ ‌‌‌for‌‌‌ ‌‌‌these‌‌‌ ‌‌‌‌‌movies‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌many‌‌‌ ‌‌‌more‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌at‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌From‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Hell.‌‌‌  This week, we select wine parings for three movies that star James Coburn.

1967's In Like Flint is the sequel to the previous year's Our Man Flint. Both are spy movies, played for laughs. Coburn gives the sort of performance that captivated me as a preteenager. That experience was a great icebreaker when I found myself standing next to Coburn at a Hollywood after-party. I told him I wanted to be Derek Flint when I was younger. He turned his head to look at me. "Still do," I said. He flashed that incredible James Coburn smile as our respective friends came to collect their plus-ones. 

The masculine sexual overtones of the title, In Like Flint, give away the plot. A feminist movement threatens to oust the male population from its ruling capacity. Remember, this was 1967. Things are quite different now. Right?

The pairing for In Like Flint should be something flinty, if that's not too on the nose. A Chablis would be ideal. You can hardly go wrong with that as your ask at the wine store. If you feel more comfortable looking for an actual label, try a Chablis from Louis Jadot. That's about as reliable as it gets in the $20 range.

Coburn scored again in 1967 with The President's Analyst. When we think about the President having an analyst, our thoughts may go to "What analyst? I don't need an analyst! But if I did have an analyst it would be the biggest, most beautiful analyst the world has ever known." And probably blonde.

Although technically a psychiatrist, Adam Arkin's Stanley Keyworth on The West Wing is what I would like the President's analyst to be. Trustworthy, loyal, and loaded with sarcasm. And, able to solve your mental health problem in 42 billable minutes. 

Analyst runs a bit longer, but it doesn’t seem like it. Imagine the secrets an analyst to the president would have. Imagine how many people would like to get those secrets. Imagine the lengths someone would go to for that information. Coburn's character imagines all that, and more. His tangle with The Phone Company is the stuff of which nightmares are made. Of course, today we sweat out what Google knows about us.

Pairing a wine with James Coburn could be as easy as saying "Cockburn's Port." Of course, that works better when you actually say it instead of reading it in print. How about a wine called The Therapist? Imagine how I felt when that fell into my lap. Slate Theory makes the white blend of Muscat Blanc and Muscat Canelli in the Texas Hill Country. $32 gets you well.

Hard Times was Walter Hill's 1975 debut as a director. The film not only has Coburn, but Charles Bronson, Jill Ireland, and Strother freaking Martin. The names look great on a marquee or a one-sheet, and the performances are fantastic.

The Depression-era, bare knuckles streetfighter portrayed by Bronson fit right in with Coburn's hustler, a guy by the name of Speed. The south Louisiana setting worked well and critics liked the film enough to scrawl out some kind words about it. The general public was even kinder, giving up their hard-earned dollar bills to see it. 

How could we not enjoy a good ol' Temecula wine with Hard Times, particularly when it is a Bare Knuckle Malbec? Wiens Cellars has it for $65. Don't sell Temecula short. There are some high quality wines being made in Riverside County.


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Wednesday, April 30, 2025

Red Rhône Blend

Domaine Guigal was founded by Etienne, furthered by son Marcel and now his son, Phillippe, represents the third generation toiling in the Côte Rôtie appellation of the Rhône Valley. It is, as they say, une affaire de famille

The 2020 Guigal Cotes du Rhône is a blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvdère from the southern Rhône Valley, grown in various types of soil, featuring sediment, limestone, and granite. The vines average 35 years in the ground. After vinification, the wine spent a year and a half in oak. Alcohol hits 15% abv and the bottle cost me $20, at my local supermarket.

This wine is inky dark in the glass. The nose sports aromas of blackberry, plum, and currant, with notes of sweet oak spice, white pepper, and a bit of anise. There is also a tarry sensation in the bouquet. The palate displays all the fruit you can handle, along with some of that oak. The tannic grip is fairly intense upon opening and should be left to breathe a bit before serving. It is a great pairing with any kind of fatty beef. 


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Monday, April 28, 2025

Long Live This Loire Valley Rosé

While searching for bargain wines at Trader Joe's I came across a rosé that I had never noticed before. The Vive La Loire! Touraine Rosé blend appears to be a non-vintage wine from the Loire Valley, specifically the Touraine region. 

The organic blend is about half and half Gamay and Cöt, a tad heavier on the Gamay. The grape description is interesting in that Gamay is usually associated with the Beaujolais region, and the use of the name Cöt, for Malbec, is generally found in the southwest part of France. Plus, I don't remember ever having a rosé wine made from Malbec. This one's exciting!

The alcohol level is perfect for a pink wine, 12% abv. The price isn't bad, either. At $12, it's a little steeper than most other rosés at Trader Joes. 

This wine has a beautiful salmon orange color in the glass, almost a copper shade. Big red fruit aromas decorate the nose, with a hint of orange peel thrown into the mix. The palate also shows that red fruit, in a big way. Cherry, strawberry, and red vines combine for a bold and complex profile. The acidity is fresh, but not bracing. This wine will be a good sipper during the spring and summer months. 


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Friday, April 25, 2025

Blood Of The Vines - Horse Sense

Pairing wine with movies!  See the trailers and hear the fascinating commentary for these movies and many more at Trailers From Hell. This week, we concentrate on the neighsayers with wine pairings for three thoroughbred films. Giddyup!

The Black Stallion is a 1979 adventure about a boy who is shipwrecked on a desert isle with the black horse. The two become pals, as there was no one else on the island with whom to talk or whinny. A rescue brings them both back home for more escapades and, eventually, a race. In that one, bet on the dark horse.

The film spawned a sequel, a prequel and a TV series. That's pretty good for a movie starring a non-talking horse. Mr. Ed was green with envy. Mickey Rooney was nominated for a Best Supporting Actor Oscar, but he couldn't go the distance. He did land a role in the series, however. 

Bucephalus was Alexander the Great's black steed, and it is the wine pairing here. It's a blend of Napa Valley grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Zinfandel, from the Black Stallion Winery. It's pricey at $230, so don't spill any during the exciting parts of the movie.

The soundtrack of The Horse Soldiers rides in on the strains of "Dixie" and out to "When Johnny Comes Marching Home." You not only get a western, you get a Civil War movie, too. And John Wayne's in both of them.  

Heck, you even get John Ford directing at no extra charge, and a story that was ripped from the headlines of the Vicksburg Post, circa 1863. A western? In Mississippi? That's right, pilgrim. Mississippi was once The West. The Duke plays the railroad-builder-turned-Yankee-Colonel who is sent into Mississippi on a mission to blow up a railroad. Now that's iron horse irony for you.

Besides Wayne and Ford, you get character actors like Ken Curtis, Denver Pyle and Strother Martin. That's the hick trifecta, right there - a dialogue coach's dream, a speech therapist's nightmare.  

It may be my imagination, but I think this movie has more horses in it than I've ever seen before in a film. It makes me wonder if actors get paid more for saddle sores. We should probably check with a bow-legged actor for the answer.

Wild Horse Winery, just south of Paso Robles, advises us to "Live Naturally, Enjoy Wildly."  Their 2006 Cheval Sauvage not only means "wild horse" in French, it's the kind of masculine Pinot Noir John Wayne might share with his brave steed after a tough day of breaking the Confederacy.

The Appaloosa is a 1966 Western, sometimes titled as Southwest to Sonora, in case you didn't catch on right away that it's a Western. Marlon Brando plays a Mexican-American who has a beautiful horse. But you know, in the movies as in real life, we can't have nice things. Not without putting up a fight, anyway. 

As fights go, the climax of The Appaloosa is a doozy. It shows the lengths that some men will travel for what, or who, they love. It also shows why you shouldn't have a chrome gun.

Sol Invictus Vineyards has a Riesling for just $22. It's from Idaho, but the best thing about it is that it's named Appaloosa. That's a recco if I ever heard one.


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Wednesday, April 23, 2025

A Good Cigare Is A Wine

The Bonny Doon Vineyard Le Cigare Orange 2022 is labeled, unofficially, as "skin contact wine of the earth." The orange color comes from fermenting white wine grapes on their skins, which has become a fairly trendy trick for winemakers in recent years. 

The "le cigare" in the name refers to the French term for UFO. The back label tells an abbreviated version of the story about legislation put on the books in the Rhône Valley back in the 1950s. The law banned UFOs from landing in the vineyards. It appears to have worked.

This orange wine was made from 44.5% Grenache Blanc grapes, 25% Pinot Gris, 14% Grenache Gris, 9.5% Orange Muscat, and 7% Chenin Blanc, all grown in a handful of Central Coast vineyards. Le Cigare Orange is vegan friendly and gluten free, carries alcohol at 11.5% abv and cost about $12 at my neighborhood Whole Foods Market. 

This wine has a beautiful salmon orange color, quite brilliant. The nose displays the stone fruit and citrus one might expect from a white wine, but also a boatload of cherry and strawberry aromas. There is a lovely tangerine citrus note that comes after swirling the wine. Stone fruit dominates the palate, but with a considerable salinity over it, the kind of savory attraction for which winemaker Randall Grahm has made his calling card. 


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Monday, April 21, 2025

You Had Me At Vouvray

I was bargain hunting at Trader Joe's again, which is a great place to go bargain hunting. The 2023 Vignobles Lacheteau Vouvray caught my eye, as it has before. Any time I see Vouvray on a wine label, my eye is caught. 

The French region of Vouvray is in the Loire Valley, or white wine heaven if you prefer. The main grape there is the Chenin Blanc, which is what makes up this interesting vin blanc. Alcohol is quite restrained, at 11% abv, and it sells for less than $10 at Trader Joe's. I hope they keep it in stock, because I have a spicy shrimp dish on my radar for the coming week. 

This wine has a straw-yellow color in the glass. Its nose shows aromas of stone fruit, like peach, apricot, and white nectarine. There is also a hint of Meyer lemon in the sniff. The palate is just creamy goodness. The fruit flavors are joined by a savory minerality and salinity, which is overpoweringly wonderful. The acidity is fresh, but not razor sharp. Pair it with a spicy dish and thank me later. Spicy seafood would be perfect.  


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Friday, April 18, 2025

Blood Of The Vines - Still More Movies You Never Heard Of

Pairing wine with movies!  See the trailers and hear the fascinating commentary for these movies and many more at Trailers From Hell. This week, we dig way down in the digital streaming stack once again, for three films that may have gotten past you unnoticed. There will be wine pairings, too.

People who know me know better than to ask me about wine.  They know that one simple question will ensnare them in a conversation that lasts too long and ends up putting them to sleep.  It's the same with movie aficionados. They always end up talking about movies that were seen by only twelve people in a limited opening in Sherman Oaks.  My kind of people. 

2018's Little Forest tells the story of a woman in Seoul who gives up on her dream of becoming a teacher and moves back to the small South Korean village where she grew up. It may sound like a thin nail on which to hang a whole movie, but it's one of those feel-good films that actually works. 

She returns home to find that Mom is gone, but the memories of the "little forest" of ways she showed her love are still there. A couple of her childhood pals remain, too. One of them has also given up the struggle of the big city, while the other is striving for bigger and better, right there in their tiny town. That's worth a toast, I would say.

Well, whattaya know? A winery named Little Forest. Let's call off the search right there. I mean, owner Atsuko Radcliffe was the first female winemaker in Japan, and now she is seeking fame and fortune in Australia. Who knows when she might go back home to play with her ol' school chums? She has a bunch of Shiraz wines for sale at around $40.

The 2019 sci-fi Vivarium takes perhaps the bleakest view of child-rearing ever seen in a movie. The story involves a couple who are taken to live in a certain house and forced to raise a certain child who was left on their porch. Any parent will tell you, it's a job raising a kid. In this case, it is an actual j-o-b, from which they cannot escape. No amount of "mommy wine" can help. And in the end, he never calls, he never writes….

The temptation is to pair any old cheap, box-wine Chardonnay with Vivarium, but maybe we won't treat "mommy wine culture" so casually. It is, basically, functioning alcoholism, after all.  

Let's cheat a bit and call on Domaine Parent for a nice Chardonnay - I mean a really nice Chardonnay. It comes in a glass bottle and everything. And "Parent" is Jacques Parent's name, en Français, so it's "pair ONT." A bottle of his Grand Cru white Burgundy will have you unfolding a Benjamin, but he has a good $20 Chardonnay as well.

Box of Moonlight hit theater screens in 1996, and most people likely did not see it coming. They didn't see it going, either. They just didn't see it. Those that did see it are a cult of a precious few, a cult apparently headed up by the film's director.

The comedy/drama centers on a man who decides to kill a few days on his way home from a business trip by visiting a lake he knew as a child. This sort of Tomfoolery is quite out of character for him. For this variance from the norm, he is rewarded with a new take on life and maybe fewer rats in the rat race. 

Sonoma County's Chateau St. Jean Winery has moonlight that comes in a bottle, not a box. Moonlight Malbec is a reserve wine from their collection and it sells for $85.


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Wednesday, April 16, 2025

Carménère From Chile

The 2022 Carmen Delanz Carménère Apalta was grown in Chile's Colchagua Valley, in the Apalta region. The varietal makeup is 71% Carménère grapes, 15% Syrah, 9% Petite Verdot, and a splash of Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Carmen's Carmenere vineyard was planted in 1935. I'm told that Carménère was considered extinct from its original home in Bordeaux, until 1994. That's when a noted wine expert identified the grape in Chile's Maipo Valley, where it had been known as Chilean Merlot. This wine is a tip of the hat to that discovery. It carries alcohol at 14% abv and retails for $30. Winemaker Ana Maria Cumsille has done a fine job with this Carménère blend.

This wine is dark ruby in the glass. The nose carries rich notes of cherry, strawberry, and cassis. A savory angle joins the fruit and presents a more complex bouquet. The palate brings similar dark fruit flavors, along with some clove, anise and oak spice. The tannins are firm, yet the sip is elegant and smooth. Pair this with any sort of meat or cheese. 


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Monday, April 14, 2025

Priest Ranch Winemaker Cody Hurd

When you get the chance to have some very good Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, you take that opportunity. Lunch is thrown in, too? A bonus, for sure, but the wines from Priest Ranch need no justification. 

I was invited to join Priest Ranch Winemaker Cody Hurd and CEO Judd Wallenbrock for a lunch and tasting at Castaway in Burbank. They were in Southern California for Musexpo 2025. Wallenbrock told me that he likes the philosophy of Robert Mondavi, which combines wine, food and the arts into a complete and fulfilling lifestyle. It was my good fortune that he and Hurd had a couple of hours to kill between more enriching events.

Priest Ranch, they were quick to tell me, is not a religious organization. Apparently, some folks take the name literally. The winery is named after James Joshua Priest, a prospector in California's Gold Rush era. He may not have found much gold in 1869, but he did find a good patch of land. It is now called Somerston Estate, and that's where all Priest Ranch wines are grown. They date back to 2007, those wines, the inaugural vintages of Priest Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon. Hurd came along a few years later and is now crafting those wines. He shows his skill at blending with the reserve wine called James Joshua, a tip of the hat to the original landowner. It is produced only in select years and is dedicated to club members and the Yountville tasting room.

Hurd described for me the blending process, which he says can start with as many as 112 bottles open in front of him. Although he has an idea in mind along the way, he says the blend is always a mystery until it's done. Priest Ranch wines are made with minimal intervention, but with the help of today's technology. Hurd has a big hand in guiding the Priest Ranch brand. 

Does the worldwide renown of Napa Valley serve as a burden to him as he crafts his wines? Not on your life. "People ask me where I would be a winemaker if I could make wine anywhere in the world," he says. "I tell them 'I can make wine anywhere in the world, and I'm doing it right here.'"

Hurd and Wallenbrook were happy to put their Soda Valley terroir on display for me. They poured the 2023 Priest Ranch Sauvignon Blanc as an opener, then we sampled the 2022 Priest Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2019 Priest Ranch Remedy, and the 2019 Priest Ranch Snake Oil. The latter two are both Cabs. 

The Sauvignon Blanc has a bit of herbal grassiness to it, but plenty of ripe fruit to keep it fully in the California style. The wine was made from the Musqué clone, grown on a west-facing slope. A tall mountain makes the sun set early on the vineyard, producing a truly incredible acidity.

The Cabernet Sauvignon is what they call the workhorse Cab. It has a beautiful, minty nose, and 40% of the oak is French. A retail price of $60 is about half what you would expect to pay for a Napa Cab of this quality.

The 2019 Priest Ranch Remedy offers spicier notes than the workhorse.  The blend features Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Merlot. Remedy retails at $85, while the 2019 Snake Oil sells for $110. Snake Oil sports great tannic structure, so it's the one you may want to cellar, if you can resist the temptation to put a corkscrew in it.


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Friday, April 11, 2025

Blood Of The Vines - April Fools

Pairing‌‌‌ ‌‌‌wine‌‌‌ ‌‌‌with‌‌‌ ‌‌‌movies!‌‌‌  ‌‌‌See‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌hear‌‌‌ ‌‌‌the‌‌‌ ‌‌‌fascinating‌‌‌ ‌‌‌commentary‌‌‌ ‌‌‌for‌‌‌ ‌‌‌these‌‌‌ ‌‌‌‌‌movies‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌and‌‌‌ ‌‌‌many‌‌‌ ‌‌‌more‌,‌‌ ‌‌‌at‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Trailers‌‌‌ ‌‌‌From‌‌‌ ‌‌‌Hell.‌‌‌  This week, we celebrate April First with a trio of foolish flicks and wine pairings to match.

I'll Never Forget What's'isname is a 1967 British comedy. You know it's British because the letter "H" in the title is replaced by an apostrophe. That's also how you know it's a comedy. 

Leonard Maltin summed it up in three words: "Excellent comedy drama." All the other critics used far more verbiage, calling it overwrought, dated, muddled, pessimistic, heavy-handed. I could go on, but we've all paid too much attention to negative reviews already, haven't we?

Orson Welles gets fairly high billing for a part that barely used up any celluloid and Oliver Reed chops up the place, literally, as an ad man who makes Don Draper seem like a milquetoast. 

The wine pairing for What's'isname is a wine which actually has no name. Like the Horse With No Name. Or the Man With No Name. Borgogno's 2020 Barolo failed an Italian taste test and was declassified to Nebbiolo. In protest, the winery slapped "No Name" on the label. Which means that's actually the name, I guess. It sells for $50 online. For that price, I'd expect a name. 

The Private Lives of Adam and Eve came out in 1960, a time when things were just looking up for America. Elvis was wrapping up a tour of duty, Kennedy was preparing to beat Nixon's perspiring upper lip, and The Flintstones were about to become the modern stone-age family.

Mickey Rooney co-directed this film with Albert Zugsmith, who probably should have called himself What's'isname, except the film wasn't British. Rooney also tackled the role of Satan, which is how you know it's a comedy.

It's a film about paradise, which seems to be set in purgatory. A busload of people are headed to Reno, the across-the-border name for Lake Tahoe, where people in movies went to get divorced. The lead couple, Mamie Van Doren and Martin Milner, end up dreaming that they're in the Garden of Eden. The biggest temptation they faced might have been to get off this picture. But, their per diems were already doled out, so they stayed and ate from the honey wagon.

It's not a bad way to waste an hour and a half, but don't expect a major skin show just because the Catholic Legion of Decency condemned it. 

Paradise Springs Winery is in Santa Barbara County. They also have an operation in Virginia, making them one of the only bicoastal wineries. They pick fruit from some well respected vineyards, and bottles start at $35.

With James Garner starring, you know it's a comedic western about to happen. Sure enough, in 1969's Support Your Local Sheriff, Garner's sharp shooter character becomes the sheriff of a gold rush town that is held in check by a rich family that charges a toll to use the only road in and out of town. Hey, it's nothing but dirt everywhere you look. Just make a new road! But no, that would leave us with a movie only 17 minutes long and not very interesting. 

Garner's touch with the western motif was a gift, so much so that in The Rockford Files it was disappointing to see his home surrounded by beach sand instead of desert.

This film features a great supporting cast. The likes of Walter Brennan, Jack Elam, Bruce Dern, and Harry Morgan are worth the investment of 90 minutes and $4 to rent the flick on your local iPad. 

Shadow Ranch, in the Sierra Foothills, has a red blend they call The Sheriff. As in "Support Your Local Sheriff," "There’s a new sheriff in town," and "Y'all drive careful now, heah?" The blend is Syrah, Petite Sirah, Tempranillo, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Grenache, all for $23. 


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