Tuesday, July 19, 2011

VAMPIRE LOUNGE AND TASTING ROOM, BEVERLY HILLS


Vampire Vineyards Tasting Room

According to the Tom Petty song, "Free Fallin'," the vampires in the San Fernando Valley "move west down Ventura Boulevard."  I don't know where they go from there, but if any vampires venture into Beverly Hills, I know a place where they can taste some wine.

The Vampire Lounge and Tasting Room isn't just a hangout for those with extended canine teeth.  It's the retail embodiment of Vampire Vineyards, a winemaking outfit which draws grapes from Paso Robles, Santa Maria, Napa Valley and France's Loire Valley.

The business started in 1988 with the release of an Algerian Syrah, bottled in France.  The first 500 bottles went to rock star Alice Cooper, and the rest is a history that's afraid of the daylight.  The company's travels have gone through Italy and Transylvania itself.  Now, the winemaking effort is based in Creston, California - a little bit southeast of Paso Robles.

Michael Machat is the founder and CEO of the company, and he plays a big part in the corporate backstory featured on the website.  The Vampire Vineyards sommelier, Igor Fedenkov - really, it's on his business card - poured me through a sampling of the wines.

Dracula Syrah, Chateau du VampireThe Dracula Pinot Noir 2007 is made from Santa Maria grapes - picked before sunrise, of course.  The wine spent 18 months in French oak.  It has a big, rich nose and big, rich flavors to match.  Cherry and raspberry notes dominate in properly dark fashion.

Chateau du Vampire Midnight Rendevous 2007 is a blend of Paso Robles Syrah, Grenache, Counoise and Mouvedre.  There are bright cherry flavors in abundance and some great chocolate notes.

Trueblood Napa Valley Syrah 2004 is inky-dark enough to please any vampire who likes his wine smokey and spicy.

It's no surprise that red wines dominate the list, but Vampire Vineyards does offer a modest selection of whites - notably the Chateau du Vampire Roussanne of Paso Robles heritage - along with a White Zinfandel and the Je T'Aime Brut Rosé.  Even vampires like to do a little light sipping now and then.

All sorts of vampire-related wine gadgets are offered in the tasting room, as well as apparel, glassware, chocolate coffins and a vampire energy drink - perfect for those times when the sun's rays threaten to bring the night to an end.



Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter.

Monday, July 18, 2011

MAS VINO AT THE EAT REAL FESTIVAL


MAS Vino at Eat Real Festival

The Eat Real Festival in Culver City, California was Saturday July 16th, 2011.  Billed as an opportunity to sample "real" food and drink, the festival offered a number of food booths and a food truck rodeo of sorts.

There wasn't a lot of wine to sample, however the Beer Garden was serving plenty of craft brews as well as a couple of taps devoted to vino.

I tried MÁS Vino Blanco - 90% Saivignon Blanc and 10% Sémillon, sourced from California's North Coast region.  MÁS Vino is based in Occidental, California, and they produce wine in mini tanks fitted with built in gas chambers which push the wine out.  The tanks keep the wine fresh for about two months, and hold the equivalent of about 15 bottles of juice.  It's a fairly green delivery method for wine, producing virtually no waste since there are no bottles to throw away or recycle.

Winemaker Tami Collins did a nice job on this one.  The wine has a pale, greenish tint in the glass.  The nose was a little hard to reach, since it was sampled at an outdoor venue with plenty of food being prepared all around me.  Aromas were everywhere!  I was able to pick up a slight grassiness, but it's not very pungent.  There was a little piece of grass in my serving, though.  You've got to love festival-style.

On the palate, green apples and grapefruit lead to a lemon peel flavor on the finish.  It's a medium-bodied wine and there is a decent presence of acidity.  Although not exactly bracing, the wine is definitely refreshing, especially on a warm afternoon.

MÁS Vino also makes a Chardonnay, Merlot and a blend of Sangiovese, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel.  Their website features a distributor page to help you locate the mini tanks.


Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter.

Sunday, July 17, 2011

U.S. GOVERNMENT LOOKS AT STRICTER RULES ON WINE LABELS


Wine News

Ask most winemakers, and they'll probably tell you there are already plenty of regulations concerning how things can be worded on wine labels.  Some in the wine industry are now telling the federal government just that, as the Treasury Department's Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau has begun to make noise about tightening restrictions on the words that appear on wine labels.

An article from the Los Angeles Times, by Michael Doyle, says many terms that are used on wine labels are not specifically defined, so they actually have no meaning in a legal sense.

The article points out that "estate bottled" is a strictly defined term and wineries must adhere to guidelines in order to use it on the label.  "Estate" by itself is not defined, however, so there are no regulations at all on how that word may be used.

Other terms which have no legal definition - "old vine," "select harvest." "barrel select" and proprietor's blend," for instance - are now being studied for the way they are used in describing wine.

The article states that regulators began asking for input from consumers and the wine industry in 2010 on whether more control should be exerted.  California's Wine Institute has already chimed in that current labeling restrictions are sufficient.  So has the California Association of Winegrape Growers.

The article cites one Oregon winery which might not be opposed to tougher label regulations.  The owners of Stone Hollow Vineyard are quoted that they use the term "estate bottled" on their wine labels and they don't appreciate that other wineries could use the term "estate" as loosely as they wish.

According to the article, the Feds have not said when the next step on a new set of regulations might come.


Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter.

BLOAPP IPHONE VERSION


The Now And Zin Wine Blog is now available in an iPhone-optimized form, through a free app called Bloapp.  It presents the Wine Blog - and others so optimized with Bloapp - in a format which is very easy to read on the iPhone.  There are a couple of hoops to jump through, but the process is relatively easy.


1.  Click on the link below to go to the iTunes AppStore and download Bloapp.  It's free.
 

2.  Then, use the app to scan this QR code and get the Now And Zin Wine Blog installed, also free.  Here's the QR code:
 
 

Just scan the image above with your iPhone.  It's really easy, and it worked like a charm when I did it.  Presumably, other bloggers will utilize this app to make their blogs iPhone-optimized, too.  All the blogs optimized this way will appear within the Bloapp app on your iPhone.

Let me know how it works for you - or, more importantly, if it doesn't work for you!  You can always email me at nowandzin@gmail.com or hit me up on Twitter, @randyfuller1.

Thanks for downloading, and for reading the Now And Zin Wine Blog.  I'm happy to make it a little easier on the eyes!



Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter.

Thursday, July 14, 2011

LOCAL WINE FOR SOCAL WHOLE FOODS


Whole Foods

lovers in Southern California love their wine from Santa Barbara County.  Syrah, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and even Italian grape varieties from the Santa Barbara area are plentiful on wine shelves in Los Angeles, and the Santa Barbara wine country experience is just a short trip up the 101.

My eye was caught recently when I spied a collection of wines from Santa Barbara County at Whole Foods Markets in West Hollywood.  Whole Foods is known for their "locally grown" stance in food, and now we see they have the same sort of regionalism in the wine department.

The wines go under the name "A Collaboration," and feature different wines of several different Santa Barbara County winemakers under the same label.  These wines are made exclusively for Whole Foods Markets, and are only available in Whole Foods' Southern Pacific Region.  They can't be ordered, either, as Whole Foods West Hollywood store only ships wine near Christmas.  Southern California has these wines all to themselves.

Whole Foods throws a much-deserved spotlight on Santa Barbara County's climate, soil,terroir and winemaking talent in hopes of raising awareness of the wealth of wine located there among the everyday grocery shopper.  To that end, the displays of "A Collaboration" wines are placed prominently in the stores with descriptive material - like large-format shelf talkers.

The winemakers involved in this collaboration are Doug Margerum of Margerum Wine andCimaroneJim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat and Frank Ostini and Gray Hartley, the team behind the Hitching Post label.

Six blends are featured in the line, each with its own appeal, and all six should tempt any Southern California wine lover strolling the aisles of Whole Foods.  They retail for between $15 and $17 a bottle.  The chain describes the wines of "A Collaboration" this way:

Hitching Post, Central Coast Red Wine

"Frank Ostini and Gray Hartley of Hitching Post Winery created a 22 barrel selection that includes a blend of 73% Valdiguie and 27% Syrah.  The selection was handcrafted for Whole Foods Market to feature the bold aromas of flowers, red fruits, dark berries, spice and a touch of bacon.

Hitching Post, Central Coast Rose Wine

Perfect for a warm, sunny, California afternoon, the 60% Valdiguie and 40% Pinot Noir handcrafted blend is a versatile dry rose that pairs well with a variety of foods.

Margerum Wine Company, M5 Red Blend

Owner and winemaker, Doug Margerum, crafts world-class wine, stressing individuality with connotations of nature.  The first wine in the series is a five-grape, six-vineyard, 18-barrel selection blended from six Santa Barbara County vineyards and displays aromas of blackberry and blueberry backed by hints of violets, anise and leather.

Margerum Wine Company, M3 White Blend

A carefully crafted blend of 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Riesling and 25% Old Vine Chenin Blanc is lively, bright, refreshing, clean and complex.  Capturing the essence of spring in a bottle, the wine is perfect for outdoor dining and picnics.

Clendenen Family Vineyards Red Blend

With peak harvest season prolonged until fall, this wine benefits from a gradual ripening that allows the acidity to become softer and the flavor development to heighten; all made possible by the special relationship between the climate, site and grapes.

Au Bon Climat, Pinot Blanc

While the Santa Maria Valley is noted for its ChardonnayPinot Noir, and Syrah, the most distinctive grape in the valley is the Pinot Blanc—a more concentrated, rich and elegant varietal.

Cimarone Wines, Sangiovese Blend

Grown on the steep hillside of the magnificent Cimarone Wines estate, the Sangiovese has been a standout throughout Cimarone Wines’ rich history.  This proprietary blend of SangioveseSyrahSyrah NoirPetit Verdot and Mablec is a wine that truly drinks well now but will reach its peak with bottle ages.

Cimarone Wines, Syrah Blend

Happy Canyon is one of the warmer Santa Barbara County wine regions for Syrah, producing wines that are rich and supple with long flavors.  The dense, lean flavors of the other varietals, including Cabernet FrancPetit Verdot and Malbec, perfectly complement the Syrah to make an unparalleled wine that showcases the future of the Cimarone brand.



Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter.

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

BLOOD OF THE VINES: GODZILLA, KING OF THE MONSTERS!


Blood Of The Vines

Wine Goes To The Movies
With NowAndZin.com and TrailersFromHell.com


If "Godzilla, King Of The Monsters" doesn't put you in the mood to drink some wine, I can't say I blame you.  Sake, maybe.  A special Jolt Cola/Espresso/Red Bull blend, definitely.  But we don't think of wine as a beverage that puts us in the mood to destroy major cities - not good wine, anyway.

The theme of monsters - particularly Godzilla - runs fairly deep in wine culture, though.  I picked up the scent of a Napa Valley wine called Cabzilla, which appeared briefly in 2002.  It didn't take long for the people who own the rights to Godzilla to step in and trash that copyright infringement in good ol' Godzilla fashion, except without the firebreathing.

There's the TV ad for yellowtail Chardonnay, in which Godzilla stars.  He sports a yellow tail, which is apparently where the connection ends.  That's not close enough for Blood Of The Vines, and we're not recommending yellowtail Chardonnay to anybody, no matter whose tail is yellow.

I have no idea who makes Kyle's Homebrewed Godzilla Wine.  Since wine is fermented, not brewed, this person may be a little confused.  They also may have received a visit from Godzilla's lawyers after they took care of that messy business in Napa Valley.

There's a Godzilla Wine which is said to be on sale in Japan.  It seems to be a little early to celebrate Godzilla's 60th anniversary; the wine bears the dates "1954 - 2014."  It's sold by Koichi Kawakita, who was a special effects guy on a number of Godzilla movies, although not the 1956 classic.  If you have a yen for it, it'll cost you 4,800 yen - about $53 - and you have to get it from Japan.  Considering the sketchy information and difficulty in obtaining it, let's pass on this one, too.

The subtitles won't match, but we could look to Italy for a Godzilla pairing.  Barolo is often referred to as the king of wines.  That would seem fitting for the king of monsters. Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1990 was said to have "mouth-searing levels of tannin" by wine critic Robert Parker, who also called the wine an "old style, monster Barolo."  A bottle will run close to $400, though.  If you're a little short until payday, let's opt for something more affordable - and with an actual connection to the movie.
 
Raymond Burr appeared in "Godzilla, King Of The Monsters," although in scenes added post-production.  He got a chance to use his fine "mopping the sweaty brow" routine that he developed a couple of years earlier as Lars Thorwald in "Rear Window."

Burr had some land in Sonoma County's Dry Creek Valley long after his appearance in this film.  Grapes were planted, wine was made and here's our recommendation: Raymond Burr Vineyards 2009 Estate Port, $48.  It's produced from estate-grown Portuguese varieties Tinta Cao, Tinta Madeira and Touriga Nacional.  It may not be described as a monster, but the wine does have a "long, complex finish," which is what Godzilla served up on Tokyo when he was brought out from the cellar.  Also like Godzilla, this wine will age well for many years.

Godzilla on a budget:
1. Sebastiani "The Crusher" Clarksburg Petite Sirah - $13

2. Gemtree "Bloodstone" Shiraz-Viognier McLaren Vale South Australia - $14

3. Ballast Point Brewing Company "Sea Monster" Imperial Stout, 22 oz. - $11


Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter

Follow Trailers From Hell on Twitter.

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

BROADSIDE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008


Broadside Cabernet Sauvignon

One of my favorite stops for "anytime wine tasting" in Southern California is the Santa Monica wine bar Pourtal.  Stephen Abronson's cozy little space near the beach is filled with Enomatic taps where wine is dispensed by the ounce.  You can have a taste of many or a glass of one or two.  There are always themed Tasting Tours which rotate on a monthly basis.  Pourtal's Wine Director Rachel Bryan makes excellent choices on the wines featured at any given time.

I was drawn to try the Broadside Cabernet Sauvignon when I noticed its grapes were taken from the Margarita Vineyard in the southern part of the Paso Robles AVA.  I recently toured this vineyard - the Ancient Peaks estate vineyard - and was mightily impressed with the wines which Ancient Peaks crafted from that fruit.  My hopes were high for the Broadside effort.

Broadside winemakers Chris Brockway and Brian Terrizzi attempt to let the grapes do the talking.  The wine is made naturally, without yeast, bacteria or acid.  Aging occurs in 100% French oak - 2% new - and the varietal makeup is 97% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Petite Verdot, also from Margarita Vineyard.  It has an alcohol level of 14.1% abv.  The Broadside Cab retails for $20 per bottle.

As expected, the wine looks dark and inky in the glass.  The nose is a little hot at first, but that settles down quickly.  Big aromas of dark fruit are laced with the minerals Margarita Vineyard is known for.  On my tour of the vineyard, I saw firsthand the ancient oyster shells peeking up from the earth - a reminder of the land's former state as a seabed.

The taste is also enticingly dark and full of those wonderful minerals.  Cassis and black cherry join with a vanilla spice component.  There's a lot of wine here for $20.



Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter.

Monday, July 11, 2011

SAINTE CHANELLE VIN DE PAYS D'OC PINOT NOIR 2010


Sainte Chanelle Vin de Pays D'Oc Pinot Noir 2010

The wines on the list at Salades de Provence, my favorite French bistro in Los Angeles, are not fancy, but they always seem to pair to perfection with the wonderful food they make.  I tried one recently which fit well with the food, but was a bit lackluster on its own.

The Sainte Chanelle Vin de Pays D’Oc Pinot Noir is the wine in question.  It was smooth as silk, but dull as dishwater.

The Vin de Pays designation translates as “country wine,” and is a French wine production level below that of the A.O.C. and above the Vins de Table classification.  Vins de Pays D’Oc hail from the Languedoc-Roussillon area in the south of France, near the Mediterranean.

The jury is mixed on this wine’s nose.  Denise smells raisins and beef, while I find the nose quite challenged, with just a hint of roses.  The taste is nice enough, if a bit plain.  Earthy cherry dominates the palate and it pairs well with mushrooms and smoked salmon.  I do not find its unobtrusive quality to be a virtue, though.

The Sainte Chanelle cost $9 per glass, and I’ve seen the ‘07 vintage for $9 a bottle at a local wine store, but I’ll take a pass on it the next time I see it offered.

The trip wasn't a total loss where wine was concerned, though.  Denise enjoyed her Bordeaux Blanc quite a bit.  I've written about it before.



Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter.

Sunday, July 10, 2011

WINE NEWS: WINE AT STARBUCKS


Starbucks Wine

You may have heard that the national coffee chain, Starbucks, is experimenting with the addition of wine and beer to some of its locations.  What does a Starbucks wine list look like?  According to the Washington Wine Report, it looks about like what you'd expect from a broad-based national chain.

There were plenty of people wondering out loud whether Starbucks would roll out wine lists featuring local or regional wines.  In a way, they have.  But don't get too excited.

As I understand it, Seattle was the test market.  I've seen notice of a Portland Starbucks, too, offering wine and beer.

There are seven wines on the lists I saw from both cities, four reds and 3 whites.  The Pacific Northwest is represented by only three wines, and all come from beneath the Chateau Ste. Michelle umbrella.

Erath Pinot Noir, 14 Hands Hot To Trot red blend and Chateau Ste. Michelle's own Riesling qualify as regional wines, but they are from a very large producer and the selections are widely available.

Other choices on the menu include the Alamos Malbec from Argentina, the Canili Pinot Gris from Italy, the Martini California Cabernet and William Hill's Napa Valley Chardonnay.  Decent wines, all, but nothing to make anyone jump and run down to Starbucks to get some before they run out.

I agree with the Washington Wine Report that the Starbucks wine list has a very corporate feel, not at all reflective of regional wines.  Of course, I would have expected about as much.  The company - if they follow through on rolling out the barrels nationwide - will watch the bottom line by purchasing safe wine choices in quantities great enough to afford volume discounts.

It's too bad, though.  When Starbucks introduced their line of coffee drinks, they were giving us something we weren't getting anywhere else.  With their wine list, it appears they are satisfied to give us something we can get everywhere else.



Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter.

Thursday, July 7, 2011

WINE COUNTRY: COLORADO - CANYON WIND CELLARS

The wine industry in Colorado began in 1890, when then-governor George Crawford planted 60 acres of grapes and other fruit along Rapid Creek, near Palisade.  There was modest growth in grape growing and winemaking until you-know-what.  Prohibition killed many states' wine industries.  In Colorado, the bell tolled early, as the state passed its own Prohibition statute in 1916 - predating the national law by four years.  All the grapevines were pulled up at that time in favor of fruit orchards.  It wasn't until the late 1960s that grapes and wineries began reappearing in the state.

Norman Christianson was a geologist who made a career of mineral exploration before becoming a vintner.  He founded Canyon Wind Cellars in 1991.  A family-owned estate winery, Canyon Wind employs Napa winemaker Robert Pepi, who oversees the winemaking work of Jay Christianson.

Canyon Wind Cellars is located in the Grand Valley AVA, in Palisade, Colorado east of Grand Junction north of the Colorado River.  The high altitude location offers their grapes hot days and cool nights in which to ripen in the sandstone soil.

The Christiansons are proud of their winery's greenness.  In the vineyard, sustainable practices are observed: no herbicides are used and only organic pesticides when needed.  A gravity flow system gets the wine to the barrel cellar using no electricity.

Canyon Wind winesCanyon Wind Wines

I received three wines to sample.  Two of them are from Canyon Wind's 47-Ten series - a Pinot Grigio/Chardonnay blend and a Merlot rosé - and a Petit Verdot from their varietal line.

47-Ten White 2010

The name of the 47-Ten series refers to the altitude of the vineyards, 4,710 feet.  That’s Rocky Mountain high.  60% of the wine is Pinot Grigio from the Cliffside Vineyard while the remaining 40% is Chardonnay from the Riverside Vineyard.  At 13.6% abv, this wine does not bring the heat.

The nose shows lovely floral notes and honeydew on a somewhat earthy background.  There are melons and peaches on the palate with a shading of yeasty minerality.  It’s really quite a delicious white, with a zesty acidity.  There’s plenty here to make it useful at the lunch or dinner table.

The mouthfeel is nice and full, and the nose and palate both show a bit of spiciness and vanilla.  I was surprised to learn this is an unoaked effort - but the Pinot Grigio was aged sur lie in stainless steel for six months before being blended with the au natural Chardonnay.  This explains the rich feel of this wine.  (When the dead yeast cells - lees - fall to the bottom of the vat after fermentation, the wine is left in contact with the lees for a time to impart a richness and yeasty flavor.)

Put a chill on the 47-Ten White, and you have a perfect companion on the deck this summer.

47-Ten Rosé 2010

Another from Canyon Wind's 47-Ten line, this rosé is such a deep pink it’s almost red.  Made from 100% Merlot, taken completely from Canyon Wind’s Riverside Vineyard, this wine is produced entirely in stainless steel.

The nose comes on like a fruit truck overturned.  Fresh, ripe strawberries and cherries abound on the nose and palate, and it’s all fruit - no candy.  It’s a wonderfully dry rosé with a nearly astounding level of acidity.  I wouldn’t pair it with steak, not because I don’t think it could stand up it, but because I like a red wine with beef.  I wouldn’t think twice about having this wine with a grilled pork chop.  At 12.3% abv, it doesn’t hit so hard that you have to worry about the second glass.

Petit Verdot 2008

This blend of Petit Verdot and a two-percent splash of Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced entirely from Canyon Wind’s Riverside Vineyard.  In the original planting for the vineyard in 1991, it was thought two blocks of Merlot from different nurseries were put in the ground.  It turned out that one block was not Merlot, and it wasn’t until eleven years later - with the help of genetic fingerprinting - that the mystery block was determined to be Petit Verdot.  A low-intervention vinification leads to 22 months in French and American oak.

Petit Verdot usually plays a supporting role in wines.  Indeed, even this grape - during its time in the Twilight Zone - was used for blending.  In this wine Petit Verdot gets to sit in the driver's seat and Cabernet Sauvignon has to ride shotgun.

The wine’s color is deep, dark red, but light does get through.  On the nose, immediately upon pouring, there is a strong whiff of alcohol.  That does not remain for long.  In fact, the wine settles down very nicely in short order.  The alcohol content is only 13.4% abv, so it was a bit of a surprise to find it so forceful at first.  Other elements vie for my attention in much the same way.  One whiff is full of amazing fruit - cassis and blueberry, jammy as can be - while another has campfire smoke and creosote on it.  It’s like a fireworks show for the nose.

There’s a lovely greenness in the flavor profile and it’s unmistakable even amid all the intense fruit flavors.  The wine has a medium-full mouthfeel and a firm tannic structure.  It does not lack acidity and shows plenty of the earth in which the grapes were grown.  Behind it all is a freshness that makes me think of a mountain stream - an unusual quality in a red wine, at least in my experience.

Our thanks go to Canyon Wind Cellars for contributing these wines and becoming an able representative for Wine Country Colorado.


Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

BLOOD OF THE VINES: NOTORIOUS


Blood Of The Vines

Wine Goes To The Movies
with NowAndZin.com and TrailersFromHell.com
"Notorious," the 1946 classic from master of suspense Alfred Hitchcock, actually features a wine as a character in the movie.  Hitch put a big clue to his mystery in a bottle of wine from Pommard, in France's Burgundy region.

Hitchcock was a wine connoisseur and really loved the northern California wine country.  He loved it so much, he bought a ranch and vineyard near Scotts Valley during the filming of 1940's "Foreign Correspondent."  That's why you see so many northern California locations in Hitchcock films - so he could be close to his digs between Santa Cruz and San Jose.

In "Notorious," when Cary Grant drops that bottle of 1934 Volnay Caillerets Bouchard, my heart skips a beat every time I see it.  "Not the premier cru!"  Fortunately, there's no great wine in the bottle, just a little pesky uranium ore which he neatly sweeps under the wine rack.  That's where radioactive isotopes are always swept so they'll go unnoticed until someone brings in a Geiger counter.

No hazmat suits, not so much as a rubber glove for protection.  Uranium is only weakly radioactive, which explains why Cary Grant didn't suffer any sort of disfigurement.  If anything, he became even more suave and debonair afterward.

Ingrid Bergman doesn't fare so well in the movie.  Oddly, she gets hers from a cup of coffee.  Someone must have slipped some uranium into the sugar bowl.

You can find a recent vintage of Bouchard Volnay Caillerets for $50 to $60, but it appears that for the 1934 vintage you'll have to go to auction, so expect to spend a lot more.  Louis Jadot has a Pommard which sells for around $40, and that appears to be the low end of the price range for that appellation. 

If you need a really cheap date night, see the Blood Of The Vines pairing for "Arsenic & Old Lace."
Bargain Burgundy:

2008 Domaine Ballot-Millot & Fils Bourgogne Rouge  -  Leave the auction to Cary Grant.  Here's some Pommard (with a little Meursault and Beaune thrown in) for about $20.

2007 Laboure Roi Bourgogne Blanc "Maximum"  -  A white blend of Meursault and Mâcon grapes - not far from Pommard - this Chardonnay is under $20.

Caves Bailly Lapierre Cremant de Bourgogne Brut  -  A sparkler from near Chablis, this will give you that Cary Grant feeling for about $15.



Blood Of The Vines also appears on the cool Trailers From Hell blog, From Hell It Came.

Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter.

Follow Trailers From Hell on Twitter.


Tuesday, July 5, 2011

MONTEBUENA RIOJA 2009


Montebuena Tioja

Wines from Spain get a lot of press lately for being great values.  Reasonable price points and generally high quality have many wine lovers looking to regions like Rioja, Toro, Calatayud and Rias Baixas for great buys.  I recently attended a tasting event in which a couple dozen tables full of Rioja wine were poured.  All of them were of high quality, even the ones retailing for $10 or less.  I had high hopes for the Montebuena Rioja wine which retailed for all of $12.  I picked it up for eight bucks at a Los Angeles wine store sale.

Montebuena is produced by Bodegas Burgo Viejo of Alfaro, in the Rioja's Ebro Valley.  It's a 100% Tempranillo wine with a 13.5% abv number.

Upon opening and pouring, I'm a little disappointed there there's a good deal of alcohol on the nose and palate.  Even on the second - and third - night the bottle is open the alcohol is the dominant aroma.

Bright cherries come across rather uncomplicated otherwise, with just a hint of spice, but the bite is sharp - too sharp for my enjoyment.  The fruit is bright, but with so few supporting elements the palate is on the thin side.  There’s also an astringency to it that helps tip the scales on the side of unpleasantness.

Even as the tannic nature of the wine lessens a bit - after three days - the flavors don’t deepen or get richer, they simply go flat.  Unfortunately, the astringency is still there.  It's not such a shock that an inexpensive wine fails to impress, but it is a disappointment that such a great wine region is so poorly represented.

My guess is that pairing the Montebuena with the biggest, juiciest, fattest piece of beef you can find would improve its lot - at least the tannins would have something on which they could work.  I sipped it solo, and I have enjoyed Two-Buck Chuck more - a lot more.



Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter.

Monday, July 4, 2011

RAIL2RAIL OLD VINE ZINFANDEL LODI 2009


Rail2Rail Zinfandel

Buying a $10 wine can be a real gamble.  There are plenty of good ones on the shelf, but there are some dogs, too.  Zinfandels that thrill generally run a bit higher than a ten-spot, so my expectations were slim, hanging by the notion that an old vine Lodi Zin would save the day at that price point.

Rail2Rail Zinfandel is produced by the Laumann Family Estate Wines of Santa Cruz.  This is one of three labels produced by Eric Laumann, the other two being Cambiata and Ludwig.

I have tried Cambiata's Albarino before, and liked it.  I also like the fact that Laumann trades in grapes you don't see very often in California, like Tannat and Dornfelder.  The '08 vintage of the Zin won awards at a couple of competitions, so I was looking forward to this Zinfandel.

The name, by the way, is taken from a surfing term which describes a "full commitment S-turn."  A rail-to-rail turn is a showy move that sprays water everywhere.  Along that line, the label promises a big wine, but one which keeps the tannins in check and balanced.

The wine does come on big, with a 14.5% abv number.  Most of that shows up on the nose when the bottle is first opened.  The smell of alcohol nearly knocked me over on the first whiff.  Big , bright cherry and blueberry aromas do manage to make their way through.

Even on the third night the bottle was open it was alcohol-heavy.  It also took on more of a candy-like appearance on the palate which I didn’t find too enjoyable.  A brambly character that appeared saved it from despair, but just by a bit.  It's a far cry from unpalatable, but I kept wishing more had been delivered.

Rail2Rail is a $10 Zinfandel that, unfortunately, drinks like one.



Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter.

Sunday, July 3, 2011

DOES NEW WORLD WINE MEASURE UP?


Old World vs New World

Do you worry about whether or not the wine you drink measures up to European standards?  Wine Spectator contributing editor Matt Kramer wondered that recently as he was sitting in a bar in Salzburg sipping a Zweigelt.  Aah, the life of a wine writer.

Kramer, in a Wine Spectator article, points out that in the past three decades great advancements have been made in winemaking the world over.  European wines were once thought unmistakably superior in quality to wines from Australia, New Zealand, Argentina, Chile and, yes, America.

In the article, Kramer goes on to suggest a scheme for judging New World wines against European ones.  Variety, originality, technical prowess, finesse and vocabulary are the criteria he came up with for measuring wines from different regions head to head.

It's not a bad idea - sports fans have always relied on a list of criteria to rate a team from one era against one from another.  Such comparisons help pass the time while drinking at the bar, but they rarely produce definitive results.

Why should it matter?  What is to be gained by trying to pick a winner between the 1927 Yankees and the 1976 Reds, except the burnishment of fan pride?  Actors often complain about the competition they are thrust into by the Academy Awards.  Why should there have to be a winner if the nominees all did a great job of acting?

Are European wines better than California wines?  The ultimate test is your own palate.  There's plenty of room in the big ol' world for great wine from everywhere.  Others have said it before me, but it bears repeating: drink what you like.  Your favorite wine is the best wine in the world, and nobody can argue that away from you.



Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter.

Thursday, June 30, 2011

LA WINE FEST 2011 RECAP


Raleigh Studios

Los Angeles wine tasting events held on movie studio backlots are a common enough occurrence that they don't generate much "gee wow" response from attendees.  The tasters at the 2011 LA Wine Fest seemed casual about their surroundings - Raleigh Studios in Hollywood - but they did seem to be enjoying the wines they were tasting.

Many wine events I attend are designed for the wine trade and/or media, but I love going to events populated by everyday wine lovers.  I enjoy talking to people who don't do a lot of wine tasting as they get a chance to sample grape varieties they aren't familiar with and explore wine producers they may not encounter where they do their wine shopping.

There are always the "party-goers" who navigate from table to table, slugging back every sample poured for them like it's a jello shot.  I always hope these people have a designated driver in their entourage.  Spit buckets were provided at nearly every stop, but they went largely unused at this event.  There was one young lady who - either recognizing she would have to limit her intake or displeased with the sample in hand - poured the remainder of her taste into a nearby bush.

Loneliest Guy At The Wine EventThe tables offering wine were typically crowded, as were the sites where a morsel of food could be sampled.  I stopped and chatted with a fellow named Mark, who manned the Icelandic Glacial Water booth.  I told him I'd run his photo as "The Loneliest Guy At The Wine Event," but he did manage to give away a fair amount of his bottled water, singing the praises of it all the while.

Match Vineyards is a small, family-owned winery which makesCabernet Sauvignon from their pair of Napa Valley hillside vineyards.  I tried their '07 Butterdragon Hill Cab upon entering the festival, and it held up as one of my favorites of the day.  It shows very rich currant and graphite aromas with great tannic structure and a finish highlighted by coffee and licorice.  Their Baconbrook Cab shows a lighter version of the profile.  Winemaker Cary Gott - Joel Gott's son - carries his four-generation winemaking lineage in style.

Witch Creek Winery of Carlsbad, California in San Diego County poured the product of winemaker Ryan Baker.  The winery is two blocks from the ocean in that quaint seaside community.  The wines I tried were sourced in El Dorado County, Clarksburg and Mexico!  Having limited experience with wines made from Mexican grapes, I jumped right in with theirSangiovese from the Valle de Guadalupe in Baja.  The smokey cherry nose and flavors of a wood fire captivate.  They also make a Nebbiolo grown in the same locale.  The El Dorado County Reserve Cabernet Franc smells of beautiful cassis and cherry and has a vegetal layer draped over the lush fruit.  A Viognier sourced from Clarksburg's Heringer Vineyards shows a lovely floral nose and a nice acidity which lasts into the finish.

Walking SushiRob Barnett, CEO and founder of Vin Village was there, pouring wines by Ricardus Corculum.  That's the nom de vinof Richard Hart.  The Latin subtext continues on the labels for his Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, dubbed "Four A's."  An A was an old Roman coin, and a wine which cost four of them was considered very good.  The Ricardus Corculum Four A's Stagecoach Cabernet Sauvignon is luscious and elegant in both the '07 and '08 vintages, the tannins a little bolder in the younger one.  The Ricardus Corculum ClandestZin Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel 2007 has a deep nose showing smokey chocolate and a very long finish.


Randy Miller, President and "Wine Pouring Specialist" forSilver Stone Winery offered one of his own and one from another.  His Silver Stone 2006 Pinot Noir is made from Santa Rita Hills fruit and clocks in with a very modest 13.5% abv number.  A beautiful fruit punch nose leads to lovely cherry and raspberry flavors which flow into a long finish.  Miller also poured a Petite Sirah from S. Morris Wines.  The "S" stands for Sean, and he's getting recognition for his small-production boutique wines.  His 2007 Roadrunner Ranch Paso Robles Petite Sirah is brawny at 15.1% abv, but the alcohol does not prove a hindrance.

The Santa Rita Hills Winegrowers Alliance brought several nice bottles along.  Fiddlehead Cellars'08 Sauvignon Blanc shows very elegant and subdued aromas and flavors with great acidity. Zotovich Family Vineyards' 2009 Estate Chardonnay is done in neutral oak.  It's juicy and not too acidic.  Weber Wine offered the '09 Babcock Vineyard Mishelle Pinot Noir - lovely cherry aromas and a refreshing tartness on the palate.

Frey's Uncle MickeyMendocino County's Frey Vineyards brought Uncle Mickey along for the event.  That's his picture, and he is every bit the bon vivant he appears to be.  He's proud of his family's organic, no-sulfites-added approach to winemaking.  Their '09 Sangiovese shows a lot of smokey fruit, a nice pepper angle highlights the '09Zinfandel and the '09 Frey Syrah is old-world delicious, one of the best Syrahs I've had.

Who knew downtown L.A.'s San Antonio Winery makes wine in Italy?  I didn't, but I was put on alert with their Il Conte d'Alba line from Piedmont.  The Stella Rosa Imperiale Moscato and Stella Rosa Imperiale Brachetto d'Acqui DOCG are both fully fizzy, sweet and quite delicious.  While I was at the table, several attendees tasted and were as wowed as I was.  Their San Simeon Paso Robles Merlot is spicy and smokey, while their Maddalena Monterey Pinot Grigio lays a big mineral base for the fruit and flowers to come.

Jada Vineyard and Winery, from Paso Robles' west side, poured a variety of wines, but the one that knocked me out was the 2010 "1149" Rosé.  Blended from Cabernet SauvignonMerlot,Grenache and Syrah, this bone-dry pinkie shows beautiful strawberry and cherry with a long, pretty finish.

Firestone Walker Brewery offered a changeup for those whose palates had tired of wine - or who just wanted a beer.  Their California Pale Ale is light in color and shows a gigantic lemon rind flavor, while the Double Barrel Ale is dark, malty and delicious.

glassesBixler Vineyards is a family farm/winery in California's San Joaquin Valley.  They've been farming there for 150 years, although grapes are relatively new to them - their vines are 25 years old.  Their White Blend is made from ViognierChardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.  It shows freshness with minerals and green apples.  The Bixler Red Blend is MerlotSyrah and Petite Sirah and features tart cherry and raspberry flavors.

The Temecula Valley Winegrowers Association brought a variety of Temecula Valley product with them.  As much as I admire some of the winemaking in Temecula, I wasn't too impressed with the samples from Stuart Cellars and Falkner Winery.  The Cougar Vermentinosimply wasn't very good.  The Wiens Family Cellars stainless steel blend of Roussanne and Chardonnay is nice.  It offers a very smokey nose with minerals on the palate and a great acidity.

Lodi's Michael David Winery had their 7 Deadly Zins to try.  It's a favorite of mine anyway, and I found it paired quite well with a piece of Red Velvet Chocolate from the Bread Basket Cake Company table.

Wedell Cellars poured a Syrah with a nice, funky nose but a rather unbalanced taste.  TheirChardonnay is positively golden in color with a wooden nose and a nutty palate.

Cielo Farms of Malibu showed a number of wines.  I concentrated on their Woodstock Collection.  The Red House Bordeaux blend shows a great sour cherry flavor; the '09 Purple Haze has a blueberry nose and luscious fruit on the palate; Blackbird is Malbec and Petit Verdot, with deep and rich dark fruit and a hint of chocolate on the finish.


Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter.

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

BLOOD OF THE VINES: PLAY MISTY FOR ME


Blood Of The Vines: Play Misty For Me

Wine Goes To The Movies
with NowAndZin.com & TrailersFromHell.com


In a former life, I was a radio disk jockey.  Clint Eastwood's "Play Misty For Me" held a special fascination.  I figured if I was good enough at it, I would someday have a cool house near the ocean, drive a sports car on PCH and do my show on tape so I could come and go as I pleased. The downside: women with knives.

I was a DJ for quite a long time.  It seemed like a long time, anyway.  I never got the ocean-view property or the sports car on PCH and I spent many long hours chained to a microphone.  On the other hand, I never got stabbed.

As far as wine goes for Clint Eastwood, he likes it.  There's a rule which clearly states if you like jazz, you must like wine, and he certainly likes jazz.  It's a package deal.  He plays a jazz DJ in “Play Misty For Me," so even his character must like wine, too.

There are plenty of references to the notion that Clint is like a fine wine - getting better with age.  He doesn't want people to celebrate his birthday anymore, so he asks his wife not to get him anything special, just have a glass of wine with him.

In his movie "Hereafter" Eastwood chose Rivetto's Barbaresca to be displayed in one scene, but finding a specific wine on which to hang Eastwood's hat isn't easy.

Clint Eastwood does have a beer connection: Pale Rider Ale bore his name back in the '90s, a tip of the black Stetson to his movie of that name.  Eastwood actually wanted the ale to be called "The Beer With No Name," as an homage to the character he played in his spaghetti western trilogy.  Someone probably figured a beer with a name would be easier to sell than one without, but I recall that Prince did alright without a name for a while.

The man who wrote the book, "Play Misty For Me," was Paul Gillette, something of a wine expert himself while he was alive.  He published some wine industry trade newsletters, but that thread appears to go no further.

The film is set in Carmel, so perhaps a wine from Monterey County would be appropriate.  There’s a proprietary brand house wine at Clint’s Carmel restaurant, Mission Ranch.  There’s also one at the restaurant he used to own, the Hog’s Breath Inn.  Carmel Valley winery Chateau Julien is just down the road and was host to the First Lady’s Reception in 2008, an event Mr. and Mrs. Eastwood attended, so let’s go there.

Chateau Julien’s flagship wine - Merlot - was their very first release in 1982.  Here’s how they describe it:  “Hints of cedar and vanilla nuances accent aromas of lush berry and robust dark cherry.  Its subtle oak edge and moderate tannins complement this full-bodied wine’s fine acidity and ripe, intense fruit.  A nice complexity and texture through a smooth, lingering finish. Will age nicely for up to ten years.”

“Play Misty For Me” has been aging for over 40 years, and Clint for much longer.  If you ask me, they both keep getting better.


P.S.: The answer to the anagram in last week's Blood Of The Vines "Rosemary's Baby" article: Velvet Devil Merlot



Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter.

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

FROM JUDGMENT OF PARIS TO TWO-BUCK CHUCK


Wine News

Everyone's always looking for a bargain, and wine drinkers are no exception - well, maybe the guy who paid $124,000 for a bottle of Burgundy is.  My guess is he doesn't rummage in the bargain bins.

Wine writer and $10 wine proponent Jeff Siegel - known in the blog world as The Wine Curmudgeon - passed along a tip on a book due out in the fall of 2011 which promises to give bargain hunters the low down on the low-priced brands

Siegel has an interest in the book - he's in it - but it sounds like a tome that would be of interest to wine lovers who live on a budget.

The book is called "A Toast To Bargain Wines: How Innovators, Iconoclasts and Winemaking Revolutionaries Are Changing the Way the World Drinks," and it's due out in November.

The author - George Taber - wrote the book on The Judgment Of Paris, the famous blind tasting in which wines from California beat out French wines for the first time.  In his new book, he will detail how some wine producers are looking to lower-priced wines as a part of their marketing strategy.  Plenty of budget wine recommendations will also be offered in the book.

Monday, June 27, 2011

SUMMERY WINE ON A SUMMERY DAY


Enoteca Drago trio

Recently, my wife had a hair appointment in Beverly Hills, followed immediately by a girlfriend lunch, also in Beverly Hills.  I dropped her off and ran a few errands, but still had a lot of time to kill in Beverly Hills.  I turned to the wine.

I had been meaning to explore few wine-oriented places in the Hills of Beverly for quite some time, and this sunny Saturday afternoon seemed perfectly suited to the occasion.

It was around noon - okay, it was 11:32 - when I walked into Enoteca Drago on Cañon Drive.  There are, maybe, a dozen Italian restaurants in Beverly Hills.  About 11 of them are owned and operated by the Drago family.  That’s alright by me, as I always have wonderful food and a thoughtful wine list at a Drago restaurant.

Enoteca is even more focused on wine than the other family locations, since it is a wine bar.  The menu offers 11 different flights of wine in the $15 - $20 range, while single glasses are in the $9 - $23 neighborhood.  The wine list has lots of variety, including late harvest selections, Ports and Grappa choices, too.  There’s also a complete menu of Italian fare to pair with the wines.

I chose a flight of three medium-bodied, semi-aromatic white wines for $17.  Included in the flight were the following wines, with my tasting notes:

flight with foodGreco di Tufo, Terradora DiPaolo, Campania 2010 -
Richest color of the trio. Apricot and ocean on the nose, golden apples with a hint of honey on the palate.  Minerals abound, great finish.  Greco is an Italian grape, thought to be of Greek origin.

Sauvignon Blanc, Joel Gott, Napa Valley 2010
Palest of the three, almost clear.  Grassy and fruity notes make up the nose, with melon and herbal notes present. Peach and apple cobbler flavors are on the palate.  The cobbler is a complete surprise, but it works.

Gavi, Villa Sparina,  Piemonte 2010
Medium straw in color the light nose is very hard to pick up.  What is that lovely taste?  It seems like cantaloupe or honeydew.  There’s a lot of minerality, too.  Wine from Gavi area of Piemonte is made exclusively of the Cortese grape.

I ordered the calamari alla griglia with this flight.  All three wines pair well with the calamari, the Gavi matches it the best.  The Joel Gott Sauvignon Blanc went best with the rapini.  By the way, when grilled calamari is offered, it should always have the grill marks on it.  It does at Enoteca Drago.

After checking in with the wife and friend at Cafe Roma (oddly enough, not a Drago restaurant) I was invited to go away a while longer, as the chatting got out of hand.

Italian Chiretto style roseJust up the street is Il Pastaio.  Yes, it’s another Drago restaurant.  This place looked really busy and festive at 1:00 or so Saturday.  As I approached, a guy in a big, white Cadillac pulled up, with Italian music blaring at festival volume from his car stereo.  As he made the corner, with the window down, he looked over at the sidewalk lunchers and led with his finger to the music.

The mobile maestro was obviously enjoying the moment to share his passion, and I overheard a guest comment, “Wow, that’s real.”  Indeed.  I stepped inside and took a seat at the bar.

I only examined the wine list for rosé, as that’s what I really wanted.  The Chiaretto Provenza is $10.50 by the glass.

Made with Groppello, Marzemino, Sangiovese and Barbera grapes, the wine hails from the area near Lake Garda in the northern part of Italy.  The winery, Azienda Agricola Provenza, is located in the Lombardy region.  Lake Garda has a special microclimate in which palm, olive and lemon trees thrive practically at the foot of the Alps.

The wine is a nice, rich, salmon color and the ice cold status at which it’s served makes it a little hard to discern too much on the nose.  The palate shows bright cherry and strawberry fruit with a hint of raspberry tartness.  The wine is dry and crisp - very refreshing.  The finish is good, and minerals are the last thing remembered after the sip is gone.

Sunday, June 26, 2011

STARS OF CALIFORNIA RECAP


back patio at the Wilshire Restaurant

California has a bounty of culinary delights to offer.  The STARS of California wine event, presented by Ian Blackburn’s Learn About Wine on Thursday June 23, 2011, showed off the wealth of California food and wine in a controlled environment - only 200 tickets were made available to the public event at the Broad Stage venue in Santa Monica, so a "no crowds" atmosphere was expected.  I attended the trade session during the afternoon, which was held in the garden setting of Santa Monica's Wilshire Restaurant.

The Golden State also has a bounty of traffic snarls.  I wonder how the road construction crews always seem to know where I'll be going, so they can block a lane or two on my route.  The 10 mile trek from mid-Wilshire to the Wilshire Restaurant took an hour, and about the same for the return trip.  It was Carmageddon!  Even with the aggravation of traffic, the event made it worthwhile.

The wines were presented as "future stars" of the California wine scene - and many of the wineries in attendance do fly a little under the radar - but the "future star" status is definitely deserved for the likes of Flying Goat Cellars, Palmina, Presqu'ile and Inception Wines.  There was plenty more to rave about, too.

Norm Yost, Flying Goast CellarsNorm Yost's Flying Goat Cellars of Santa Barbara always draws a crowd at Southern California tasting events.  Norm (pictured at right) tasted me through a trio of his Pinot Noirs, each of which shows earthy minerality and wonderful acidity.  My favorite is the 2008 Rancho Santa Rosa Pinot from the Santa Rita Hills.  This 667 clone has a smokey nose and great black cherry flavor, with a mocha note that comes through into the finish.

Randy Hazard of wine broker Vin 17 poured some delightful Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Arroyo Grande's Center Of Effort.  I was really taken with another wine he poured, the '09 Fossil Point Edna Valley Chardonnay.  Nice tropical fruit and banana on the nose with great acidity and a zesty streak citrus on the palate bowled me over.

Palmina Wines features Italian varieties grown in Santa Barbara County.  Honea Vineyard is the only vineyard in California planted exclusively to Italian grapes, and Steve Clifton buys their entire crop every year.  I love the earthy minerality of their Arneis, the briny herbal palate of their Tocai Friulano and the wonderfully dry Rosato di Palmina.  Palmina's '07 Nebbiolo of Santa Barbara County is a three-vineyard mix with earth, smoke and spices bursting forth.

Ryan Skinner, of Skinner Vineyards in the Sierra Foothills region, loves to pour his 2009Grenache, which winemaker Chris Pittenger produced like a Pinot.  It's 100% Grenache, very dry, with a brilliant cherry nose and rich palate.  I really liked their very dark and moody '07 Estate Syrah, too.

Santa Maria Valley winery Presqu'ile has been making some noise recently.  Or, more accurately, those who try their wines have been making some noise; a lot of tweeting, especially.  South African Winemaker Dieter Cronje has crafted some wonderful wines.  Presqu'ile's 2009Chardonnay is clean and crisp.  I'm told Cronje utilized 10% new oak in this wine out of necessity - just so he could have some neutral oak next year.  The real stunner is the '09 Pinot Noirfashioned from a half-and-half mix of Solomon Hills and estate fruit.  Delicious, flirty raspberry and a long finish.

George PitsironisBased in Los Angeles, making Central Coast wines, is Inception.  Owner George Pitsironis (left) says they are on the wine lists at a majority of fine dining places in Southern California.  Their '09 Santa Barbara County Chardonnay is lush and creamy, but limited use of new French oak leaves the minerals in the front seat.  Inception'sPinot Noirs had the best aromas I found at this event.  A Central Coast effort and a Santa Barbara County Pinot both followed up with rich flavor.  It was a soon-to-be-released '09 Santa Rita Hills Pinot from La Encantada Vineyard that really wowed.  It should be available in mid-July 2011.

It was with great expectations that I stopped at the table of Lang and Reed, from the Napa Valley town of St. Helena.  They do all Cabernet Franc, all the time.  All their wines are based on Cab Franc, and John Skupny can do an impromptu dissertation on the grape and its clones anytime you like.  With a shrug, he said "Somebody's gotta do it," when I admired his obsession.  Lang and Reed's Two-Fourteen is made from the CF clone 214, which originated in the Loire Valley.  It's a single-vineyard work with a beautiful vegetal edge and notes of coffee in its complex palate.

Arman Pahlavan's Starlite Vineyards poured an exceptional Viognier and Zinfandel.  Winemaker Julia Iantosca - who took over from Merry Edwards in 2007 - worked wonders with the '09Viognier, a weighty, barrel-fermented white with great acidity and a floral honey nose that's irresistable.  The '06 Zinfandel was crafted for the person "who doesn't like Zinfandel."  I can't imagine who that could be, but this Alexander Valley beauty shows bright cherry, coffee, chocolate and spice, with plenty of acidity.  It's made from a Primitivo clone.  Starlite's Cabernet Sauvignon sports 15% Napa Valley Tempranillo and shows intense red fruit.  I'm told many tasters mistake it for Bordeaux.

Mauritson Wines of Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma County scored with their Petite Sirah, indigo with concentrated fruit and great grip.  I finished the session - appropriately enough - with Mauritson's Port-style dessert wine.  Five Portuguese grape varieties are used for this blend.  The sweetness bears an earthy counterpoint which makes me think it's not just for dessert.


Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter.

Thursday, June 23, 2011

WINE COUNTRY: NEBRASKA - BIG COTTONWOOD WINERY

The wine industry in Nebraska began in the late 1800s, but never really got a major foothold.  What was left of the Nebraska wine industry after Prohibition was decimated by a huge blizzard in 1940.  There's an interesting story about that storm here.

Nebraska's first winery of the new era didn't open until 1994 and there are a couple dozen on the books now.  There are no AVAs designated for Nebraska, but the University of Nebraska - Lincoln has a viticulture program.

Deb and Rick Barnett are the proprietors of Big Cottonwood Vineyards and Winery, a small farm winery located in the rolling hills of northeastern Nebraska four miles west of Tekamah and about 43 miles north of Omaha.

Big Cottonwood uses estate grown fruit as well as grapes from nearby Nebraska vineyards.  They rely heavily upon grapes which are suited to cold weather - Frontenac, Seyval, Brianna, St. Vincent, De Chaunac, St. Croix, Vignoles and Prairie Star.

The Barnetts say Big Cottonwood is the only Nebraska winery they know of which makes a méthode champenoise sparkling wine.  It's made from Brianna, a fairly new grape variety which can survive the brutal winters and is found mainly in Nebraska.

Their line known as The Pelicans are wines made as a tribute to Lewis and Clark's westward exploration over 200 years ago.  There is a mural commemorating the trek on the side of the VFW hall in Tekamah.  I like this facet of Nebraska wine, as the Wine Country series dabbles a bit in history, too.  We are usually restricted more or less to the grape history of America.

The pelican tie-in results from the fact that the Lewis and Clark expedition stopped along the Missouri river east of Tekamah and shot a pelican there in order to measure it.  That's how it was back in the pioneer days - shoot first and break out the tape measure later.

Big Cottonwood Winery was kind enough to supply two wines from their Pelican line as the Nebraska entry to Now And Zin's Wine Country series.

Big Cottonwood PelicansPrudent Pelican

This white wine is a blend of Brianna and Prairie Star.  Brianna is a hybrid grape developed by Wisconsin grape breeder Elmer Swenson, who also developed Prairie Star and St Croix.

It has a lovely golden color and the nose shows a honeyed herbaceousness.  The wine is off dry with a medium mouthfeel.  Flavors of dried pineapple and banana - are carried along on a vibrant acidity.  I’d love some shrimp or a swordfish steak with this.

Saintly Pelican

This red table wine is a blend of St. Vincent and St. Croix - another pair of hybrid grapes - hence the "sainted" name.

Medium ruby in the glass, it's not so dark that I can’t see through it.  The nose has a rubber aroma and a strong scent of mint.  An unusual spice aroma wafts in and out, and there’s a note of brown sugar.  To say the least, it's quite a striking and distinct aroma package.

On the palate, it’s just as distinctive.  Very dry and rough hewn, the tannins are not too tough to handle, but they do speak up.  Flavors of sour cherry draped in tart raspberry make me want to pair it with grilled chicken or venison sausage.  A ferric quality persists into the finish, which is lengthy.

Both of these Nebraska wines from Big Cottonwood are very different tastes for a palate accustomed to wine made from vinifera grapes.  This is part of the American wine experience, though.  I’m glad I had the chance to get to know these grapes a bit.  I hope you'll get that chance, too.



Follow Randy Fuller on Twitter.